Tips for before and when I build my new TT02

[EmJayeX]

Hello! 

Im new here to Tamiyaclub and tamiya RC. I just ordered my firct rc kit, a TT02 (A80 Racing Supra). I was just wondering,  is there anything I should know and pay attention to when I start to build it?

I think I remember seeing some Youtube videos where people used tackle boxes to sort out screws? (Are there really THAT many???) 

Maybe a dumb question, is it better for me to try to finish in a day or two, or should I spend my time building it? Even if it ends up taking a week or two?

Are stock TT02 shocks really as bad as some say? A good set of shocks + oil might cost me around 30-40 dollars (US). Is it worth buying a set? Or is a cheap >$20 set ok too? 

And I have about 6 spare 2s LiPo batteries from a dud rc truck I got for about $100. Im hoping to be able to use those (I got a lvc too)

Im just planning to drive around anywhere I can, really. Just want to make it as fun as possible while keeping it relatively cheap. Not looking to make a bunch of upgrades (though I did get bearings). Thanks in advance for all the answers! And if there is anything else I should know, please feel free to throw it out there!

[alvinlwh]

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[ChrisRx718]

A TT02 (or TT01) is a nice straightforward build. I would recommend buying some bearings from the outset, since it's not the most fun task dismantling it all to fit them afterwards - and they're cheap and plentiful.

I used to build cars for customers back when I worked in a hobby shop. Building a TT01 (precursor to the TT02, obviously) I could assemble one and have it running in an hour with electronics. They have simple friction dampers and are relatively light on hardware - naturally that 1hr didn't include the body, which you can easily spend another couple of hours on!

For a TT02 you shouldn't require a great amount of spec or prep, just a single tray to empty the 'parts bag' into (works in sequence, A, B, C) - I use an old Chines takeway plastic container. Get a good JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdriver and a decent pair of plastic modelling snips and you're golden. Everything else you need is in the box.

The non-"S" spec versions of TT02 have really basic double-wishbone suspension with lots of "slop" - perfect for car park bashing but hardly cutting-edge. A good set of Tamiya plastic CVA (Constant Volume Adjustable - yeah I don't know what that means either) dampers #54753 is a big upgrade over the kit friction dampers and very cheap. Again everything (including oil) is included in that kit.

 

[EmJayeX]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

I never use boxes of any kind for the screws, they stay in their bags, taped up at the end of the day to keep them in. 

Most experienced builders can do a TT chassis in a evening, for you, expect a week worth of evenings I will say.

I had used cheap shocks, their quality varies. For $10 difference, just go with the Tamiya ones I say. 

Your batteries are probably fine as long as you stick with the kit motor. Do you know what mah and C ratings are they?

Other tips specific to the chassis, there are tons of threads on it right here. Just look at them.

I didnt know the Tamiya ones are only about $17 on Amazon. Ill have to check em out! Thanks! 

 

And Ill get the mah and C rating soon. Caught up with something atm. Thank you again!

[EmJayeX]

1 hour ago, ChrisRx718 said:

A TT02 (or TT01) is a nice straightforward build. I would recommend buying some bearings from the outset, since it's not the most fun task dismantling it all to fit them afterwards - and they're cheap and plentiful.

I used to build cars for customers back when I worked in a hobby shop. Building a TT01 (precursor to the TT02, obviously) I could assemble one and have it running in an hour with electronics. They have simple friction dampers and are relatively light on hardware - naturally that 1hr didn't include the body, which you can easily spend another couple of hours on!

For a TT02 you shouldn't require a great amount of spec or prep, just a single tray to empty the 'parts bag' into (works in sequence, A, B, C) - I use an old Chines takeway plastic container. Get a good JIS (Japanese Industry Standard) screwdriver and a decent pair of plastic modelling snips and you're golden. Everything else you need is in the box.

The non-"S" spec versions of TT02 have really basic double-wishbone suspension with lots of "slop" - perfect for car park bashing but hardly cutting-edge. A good set of Tamiya plastic CVA (Constant Volume Adjustable - yeah I don't know what that means either) dampers #54753 is a big upgrade over the kit friction dampers and very cheap. Again everything (including oil) is included in that kit.

 

Ive done a couple gundam model kits before, and have some nippers, so I should be good! Again, Ill have to check out those shocks, thank you!

[EmJayeX]

Ok, so the #54753 shocks are $40 on Amazon. Not sure if Im willing to spend THAT much. But I also see the Tamiya 50519 Mini Shock Set II? Would that fit a TT02 as well? Its $16 compared to $40

[alvinlwh]

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[EmJayeX]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

Yes, to an extent. They can be built to 55mm, which is what the TT-02 needs but travel stroke will be rather limited. Also note that you will need two sets of 50519 for the whole car while only one of 54753, so the difference is $8.

Ohh, I didnt know that...

Would these shocks be a good alternative? 

Yeah Racing Shock-Gear 55mm Damper Set for 1/10 RC Touring Car Orange #DSG-0055OR https://a.co/d/bCZkj2R

[alvinlwh]

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[EmJayeX]

4 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I never use boxes of any kind for the screws, they stay in their bags, taped up at the end of the day to keep them in. 

Most experienced builders can do a TT chassis in a evening, for you, expect a week worth of evenings I will say.

I had used cheap shocks, their quality varies. For $10 difference, just go with the Tamiya ones I say. 

Your batteries are probably fine as long as you stick with the kit motor. Do you know what mah and C ratings are they?

Other tips specific to the chassis, there are tons of threads on it right here. Just look at them.

Ok, so the 2s lipos I have are listed as follows...

1600mah

30c

From what I understand, mah translates to run time, and since I can have 6 fully charged batteries, im not too worried about run time as I should be able to switch between them.

[EmJayeX]

2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

YR is a recognised brand of aftermarket parts and those should do you quite well. However I don't think they are cheaper than Tamiya ones?

TAMIYA CVA Super-Mini Shock (4): TT-02, TAM54753 https://a.co/d/f7Wjkxs

This is what came up on my Amazon search. Its quite a bit more expensive than the YR ones

[alvinlwh]

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[BuggyDad]

I have some YR shocks and I think they're the same ones. Mine have been good. In the UK they're a bit more money than 54753 (looks like about £33 vs about £23). And they're well regarded. Anyway, they also come with a range of springs and pistons, so you can change and experiment with them. And being aluminium they look fancier. If you can get them for less than CVAs you're getting a good deal I'd say. You'll also need some shock oil with them. I can't immediately remember what weight but a search will find a mid point to get you started.

For a first go at a TT-02, I'd just get oil shocks, bearings (which you already have) and a steel or hardened pinion (simply reduces wear elsewhere - just make sure you get one with the right tooth size, or that quotes compatibility with TT-02). That's all I'd change. Then I'd build it, run it, see how it takes you. You might decide that's enough, you might decide you want $200 of other parts (or a higher end kit) or anything in between!

Actually, you wouldn't lose anything by simply building it stock plus bearings and running it a bit, the other bits can come later and you can make your choices based a bit more on your own experience then. The sky's the limit but there's a lot to be said for starting with your feet on the ground. I don't think you'll do any harm with a stock pinion short term. Just keep an eye on it and clean up and replace it if you decide you're running the car a fair bit. 

[EmJayeX]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

That is not a very big battery.

It will fit poorly in a TT chassis. Also with 48A on tap, I will say it is borderline for even the stock motor. I only use mine on 380 or smaller motors.

Hmm, is it just because its small and will slide around the battery tray? It is a smaller battery, but I was thinking it might reduce some weight too?

[EmJayeX]

56 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

I have some YR shocks and I think they're the same ones. Mine have been good. In the UK they're a bit more money than 54753 (looks like about £33 vs about £23). And they're well regarded. Anyway, they also come with a range of springs and pistons, so you can change and experiment with them. And being aluminium they look fancier. If you can get them for less than CVAs you're getting a good deal I'd say. You'll also need some shock oil with them. I can't immediately remember what weight but a search will find a mid point to get you started.

For a first go at a TT-02, I'd just get oil shocks, bearings (which you already have) and a steel or hardened pinion (simply reduces wear elsewhere - just make sure you get one with the right tooth size, or that quotes compatibility with TT-02). That's all I'd change. Then I'd build it, run it, see how it takes you. You might decide that's enough, you might decide you want $200 of other parts (or a higher end kit) or anything in between!

Actually, you wouldn't lose anything by simply building it stock plus bearings and running it a bit, the other bits can come later and you can make your choices based a bit more on your own experience then. The sky's the limit but there's a lot to be said for starting with your feet on the ground. I don't think you'll do any harm with a stock pinion short term. Just keep an eye on it and clean up and replace it if you decide you're running the car a fair bit. 

Thanks! I might look into fancier shocks after I see what I think of the stock ones 😅

[EmJayeX]

1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

a steel or hardened pinion (simply reduces wear elsewhere - just make sure you get one with the right tooth size, or that quotes compatibility with TT-02).

Do you know what kind of metal is used for the stock pinion gear? 

Would a new aluminum one be ok?

And since I havent recieved my kit yet, i dont know this, but how many teeth are on the stock pinion?

[BuggyDad]

21 minutes ago, EmJayeX said:

Thanks! I might look into fancier shocks after I see what I think of the stock ones 😅

Good call I think. In every case there's some value to experiencing the basic part before choosing to upgrade. Except bearings because it'd be a ball-ache to change them. 

15 minutes ago, EmJayeX said:

Do you know what kind of metal is used for the stock pinion gear? 

Would a new aluminum one be ok?

And since I havent recieved my kit yet, i dont know this, but how many teeth are on the stock pinion?

Stock pinion is aluminium. Uncoated. Essentially they just wear quickly and the dust from the wear wears other bits. The TT-02 will take a fairly wide range of pinion sizes and it looks like kit standard is 22T (but check). 

On pinion size it's a choice. Bigger one = higher top speed, less acceleration, and more load on the motor, so go too big and motor may overheat. I overheated a Torque Tuned motor (may be what's in your kit?) on I think a 25 tooth pinion in my basic TT-02, although I had enclosed the chassis in a dust cover which won't have helped, and had slightly bigger wheels (=higher gear). TT-02 can take faster gearing than that though, with other motors and/or ways to manage heat. Tamiya does sell some packs of two hardened pinions, a size apart, giving you a couple of settings to try. Or you can go other brands so long as the modulus is the same. It needs to be 0.6. 

[alvinlwh]

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[EmJayeX]

45 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

Tamiya does sell some packs of two hardened pinions, a size apart, giving you a couple of settings to try.

I saw that set, I might look into picking it up since its <$10. Thank you for all the tips and help!

[EmJayeX]

2 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

The problem is being small, it has low capacity. How much amps it can give is calculated by C x Ah, 30 X 1.6 = 48A in your case, 35 X 1.6 = 56A in my example above. I think this is quite borderline for even the stock motor.

Of course there is the problem of it being too small for the battery tray, you will need a lot of padding or some other way of securing it.

Ohh I see. So it just wont give the motor, esc, etc. much power then? Is that less power than a typical Nihm battery? 

[alvinlwh]

.

[alvinlwh]

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[EmJayeX]

52 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

It can kill your battery or worse.

Sorry for so many questions and thank you for taking your time to answer😅

But even though I have an lvc, it wont matter at all that the battery is smaller? 

The old dud truck I bought seems to have a 540 motor as well and seemed to hold up fine for the time it was alive. I guess I dont quite understand why itd work for that one, but not the tt02 (I have a small brain 😂) 

[alvinlwh]

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[EmJayeX]

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

It may or may not work. I feel it is borderline. The silver can draw >60A, probably rarely or never. The margin is too slim for me to risk it, I had personally experienced lipo explosion and it wasn't pretty. The smallest battery I use with the silver can is a 2200mah 50C battery, at least that gives me a comfortable margin.

Ahh I see...thanks for your input!