Basher TT-02B Plasma Edge 2 build tips please!!

[DavidJH]

I know there are a few threads like this already, but I none of them had exactly what I wanted to know so...

I've just built a couple of Plasma Edge 2 buggies for me and my 9yr old boy.  We put in Ball Bearings and the aluminium drive shaft and cups as we built the cars.  The pinions in the kit are 17T and appear to made out of steel - they're a very dark metallic colour and felt heavy (if i'd thought about it i could have put them to a magnet but never mind).  They also have the torque tuned motor and 7.2v 3000mah nimh batteries.

I noticed while putting the kits together that some of the plastic is very soft and I've almost certainly threaded the plastic - though hopefully not too badly - in a few places, and my boys servo does now rock from side to side a bit when used.  I've order the yeah racing servo holder to hopefully sort this out, then I'll use the spare screws from the original fixing to bolster my servo posts too (or just buy another one for me too!!)

Is there anything else I should consider buying that will makes the kits perform better/be more robust and not cost the earth?

19T pinion?  The RW racing ones sound good.

Alloy hex wheel holders?

The steering turnbuckle kit? (I noticed the turning circle is quite wide - could these help sort that out if I attached them to the forward holes on the bit near the wheel...(it's gonna a take a while 'til I know all the names of bits off by heart)

We both have the TBLE 04 speed controllers - which I'm happy with because at some point I'd like to try to use brushless motors....

HOWEVER, I don't really want to go down the route of replacing the diffs, cups and dogbones etc.  Would I still be able to use the 15.5T Tamiya Brushless in that case or is there a slightly pokier 13.5T that would fit the bill? I want to stay with the Nimhs too.  I want my boy to be able to charge and play with his car without me worrying.  Does that mean anything under 15.5T would be wasted anyway because it would need the extra power?

We'll mostly be running them on grass, concrete and up in Woods.

Many thanks in advance

Dave

 

 

 

 

 

[Kowalski86]

When you re-install any screws, first slowly turn counter clockwise until you feel a "click", then screw in. This prevents cross-threading.

Leave the stock plastics as they are, they're cheap but bendy. Aluminum/carbon bits put more stress onto other parts.

Steering turnbuckles won't help the turn radius, thats just how the TT-02 is. Maybe some grease or putty in the rear diff would help kick the back end out on acceleration.

Whatever you do, don't get the aluminum bellcrank/bridge. They are way too expensive and I've had one strip where the ball joint mounts. Just stick to cheap bendy plastic, you can do a few cheap tricks to make the steering better.

Upping the pinion would be okay for the road or maybe gravel, but it'll run hot on grass.

Imo, any brushless motor would be wasted if your ESC still runs the stock white Molex plug. They're fine for silver cans and torque tunes but they will strangle anything more powerful.

For the dogbones, consider painting them a bright glow in the dark color. I haven't had mine pop out but it'll help you find them if they ever do.

[DavidJH]

Thanks Kowalski86. The click is a good tip. I like the dog bone idea too!

About the molex plug on the ESC would you just replace it (and the one on the battery) with something else like a Deans or XT30/60 (is that what they're called?)

[sosidge]

When you build the kits just go hand tight, lots of people who are used to full size fasteners will massively overtighten the parts and damage them, it's a model after all. Hopefully not too much damage done but keep an eye out for the potentially threaded parts coming loose (PS there are lots of topics on here from people using machine screws instead of the self tappers - DON'T DO IT - stick to the screw Tamiya intended otherwise you will just strip even more threads).

As far as upgrades, these cars are at their best with slow motors and minimal upgrades. If you put a lot of power in them they will just break more often. So if you interest heads towards much faster cars, realistically you would have to get something non-Tamiya that is designed for high speeds.

Shiny parts make your car shiny and heavy but a lot of them make no difference to performance or durability so again, buy with caution.

Just enjoy building and driving and don't upgrade things just for the sake of upgrading.

[DavidJH]

I was careful when I put them together and listened to what the screw was telling me about how tight it was - it's just sometimes I expected them to tighten up a little more!!

Good to hear about the extra parts. I'll try to resist.

I fancy having a go at soldering the Dean's connectors though, is there a soldering iron set that people recommend? I'm in the UK so something from Wickes or Amazon or one of the model shops would be perfect

[sosidge]

I'd recommend a 40-60W iron with a 3mm chisel tip. I have a mid-range Weller. it's 20 years old now and works as it should. Not sure what is on the market currently.

[alvinlwh]

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[ad456]

I’ll second @alvinlwh’s soldering iron comment, i use a Remploy 25w that is almost certain to be older than me. Never fails and probably still has the original tip. Never lets me down. 

[alvinlwh]

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[ad456]

23 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Is that a Bakelite handle?😍

It definitely has that kinda feel to it, there's a very heavy 60s-70s vibe about it. I got it in a box of unwanted tools for free and it has been absolutely stellar, keeps good heat, heats well for that style of iron, I love it but it looks like a piece of junk, lol

[DavidJH]

Thanks for all the replies.  I went out for the first time with my son and we had loads of fun burning around and doing donuts.  We got loads of interest from other kids and their dads too.

After a deep dive into connectors and soldering irons I found these

https://cpc.farnell.com/unbranded/bsel0001/soldering-station-kit/dp/SD02147?mckv=s_dc|pcrid|605262956863|kword||match||plid||slid||product|SD02147|pgrid|138313689055|ptaid|pla-2013730053325|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SHOPPING-9262013734-138313689055-SD02147&s_kwcid=AL!5616!3!605262956863!!!network}!2013730053325!&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhc-z8vK2_wIV1drtCh0PlwnGEAQYASABEgKrDfD_BwE

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/monkey-king-rc-xt60-plug-with-sheath-m-f-2pcs-1331870

I've also been playing around with trying to get a bit more ride height ( I know bigger wheels but the DF03/TT-01BR ones are really expensive!!) as any long grass slows the car down quite a bit.  I've re-attached the dampers to the hole closest to the centre of the (to the right in the picture below) and the front seems fine but doing this on the back seems to have introduced some noise (I think coming from the rear gearbox..) everything runs fine though ...

I was also thinking i could remove part x11 form the rear shocks to give them another 3mm or so?  Or is this a bad idea?

One more thing.  As I mentioned above.  If I moved the ball connector for the steering to the other hole in the picture that would mean i could lower the turning circle of the car right?  (I believe I would need the turnbuckles to do this though...)

[alvinlwh]

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[DavidJH]

20 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

That iron should be fine. Do read up on top maintenance or you may need a new tip after a few months.

I prefer XT60 over Dean's as I still find Dean's popping off. Also XT are easier to solder.

You may want to read up on suspension tuning while moving it closer to the body may give you some ride height, you loose something along the way.

https://www.sodialed.com/rc-settings/shock-mounting

Yes, you can remove X11. However, you max extension may still be limited by how long the springs are. You may have to adjust with preload collars. I do not have your chassis so I cannot confirm for you.

I have the stiffest collars on so springs should work.  Thanks for the shocks link too.  I'm worried about the extra noise though

[Kowalski86]

On 6/9/2023 at 7:13 AM, DavidJH said:

Thanks Kowalski86. The click is a good tip. I like the dog bone idea too!

About the molex plug on the ESC would you just replace it (and the one on the battery) with something else like a Deans or XT30/60 (is that what they're called?)

Anytime! It's all tips I've read elsewhere. You shouldn't have too many dog bone problems.

I'd reccomend using an XT60 plug, they don't take up much space and they provide good power output.

The comment about shiny parts adding weight is true, plastics are light and bendy, things that you want on an off-roader.

For extra ride height you can always buy wheels out of the Tamiya ecosystem (as long as they're 12mm hex), some people run short course truck wheels on their TT-02Bs.

[DavidJH]

I see originally you said the carbon shocks were no good. I was looking at them as you get a bunch of turnbuckles for free, so they're relatively good value...

[Kowalski86]

4 hours ago, DavidJH said:

I see originally you said the carbon shocks were no good. I was looking at them as you get a bunch of turnbuckles for free, so they're relatively good value...

The issue with carbon shock towers is that while you'll gain better handling, you'll start stressing the diff covers and loosening screws if you jump it a lot.

[DavidJH]

OMG the temptation to spend £££ is very real!!

I am going to buy the parts bag to upgrade the standard shocks, turnbuckles and alloy   5.5 hexes for the wheels. Mostly so I can unclip things to clean out the dogbones etc.

id like to be able to attach the shocks with ball joints top and bottom for the same reason. 8 of the brass/steels ones should do it right?

Also what would you suggest to clear up some steering slop? I was out driving on my road the other night and I just couldn't seem to get the trim dialed in. I think the slop and camber of the road were to blame...

[Kowalski86]

On 6/15/2023 at 3:42 AM, DavidJH said:

id like to be able to attach the shocks with ball joints top and bottom for the same reason. 8 of the brass/steels ones should do it right?

Brass should be fine, if your car has brass tubes around the shock screws hold onto them, they can be useful later on.

[DavidJH]

3 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

Brass should be fine, if your car has brass tubes around the shock screws hold onto them, they can be useful later on.

Great.  I have 1 spare tube from my Hornet in the 80s.  There may be another in my brothers box of spares...