Tamiya WR-01 Bump Steer Issue

[TurnipJF]

Upper suspension arms are also adjustable and sheathed in aluminium:

For them I used 4mm steel rod and Traxxas ball connectors. Overkill is better than underkill!

[TurnipJF]

Alloy extended shock towers and 100mm shocks:

These are GPM towers, but I use JazRider ones on my other Twin Detonator and they work just as well. 

[RC_FunLand]

4 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Alloy extended shock towers and 100mm shocks:

These are GPM towers, but I use JazRider ones on my other Twin Detonator and they work just as well. 

What a gorgeous Twin Detonator that is!!!! Thanks TurnipJF!!!

[TurnipJF]

4WS gives a nice tight turning circle:

 

If you control each servo independently, you can also use crab steer:

 

Combine this with twin ESCs for independent control of front and rear drive a.k.a. electronic dig, and you have a very maneuverable rig indeed!

[wolfdogstinkus]

The best upgrade I did to a beat up eBay wild dagger, buy another one!!!

6wd

3 brushless motors

3x 2s lipo

6 year old pilot!, (Pilot is the correct term for this vehicle)

This did have rear steer but I took it off because when you pushed left, it actually turned the world right!!!

[RC_FunLand]

On 6/14/2023 at 5:40 PM, RC_FunLand said:

100mm shocks

Which shocks do you all recommend? I have the aluminum CC-02 upgrade shocks; would those work?

[RC_FunLand]

So what are the PN#s you all recommend to order in order to improve performance?

 

I got the caster blocks, that’s fine. Now it’s more or less aluminum shielding, upgrade 100mm shocks, and the others. Anybody have a clear list of PN#s?

[RC_FunLand]

This is what the car looks like currently:

 

running a HW Dual ES; 2-4S LiPO

two 13.5T CORE RC motors

Oil-filled dampers

sealed rubber bearings

Alstar USA servo

https://imgur.com/a/j2pRtq0

[wolfdogstinkus]

Fibrelyte UK have all the parts listed by model so just go there and look for wild dagger, they do the shock towers, not sure what else they do now, mine was 5 years ago.

I'd recommend lights, night driving is fun!

[TurnipJF]

17 hours ago, RC_FunLand said:

Anybody have a clear list of PN#s?

Not to hand, but I'll go through the manual and put one together for you. Watch this space!

[TurnipJF]

For the 4WS conversion, you will need:

 

C parts X 2 (0005688)

B parts X 1 (50736)

3X71mm track rods X 2 (9805585)

5mm adjusters X 4 (50596)

5mm ball connectors X 2 (50592)

5mm long ball connectors X 2 (9805825)

4X11.5mm step screw X 4 (84185)

3X10mm self tapping screw X 4 (9804392)

3mm washer X 3 (50586)

Servo of your choice & servo saver screw to suit.

[TurnipJF]

For the raised outer track rod connectors you will need:

 

3X20mm machine screws X 2 (19805898)

5.5X3mm spacers X 4 (19804199)

5mm ball nuts X 2 (19805389)

[TurnipJF]

For the extended shock towers you will need:

 

Extended shock towers X 2 (JR-WR101-BK or equivalent)

4 X shocks of your choice that measure somewhere from 90mm to 100mm eyelet-to-eyelet when fully extended. (I usually use generic cheap Chinese ones off EBay, rebuilt with Tamiya red o-ring shaft seals. O-ring part number 50597.)

[TurnipJF]

To sheath your track rods in aluminium, you will need:

 

4mm OD X 3.1mm ID aluminium tubing (consult your chosen supplier for part number)

 

[Floureon]

Thank you so much @TurnipJF for all of the info + PN#s!!! I’ll let you know how it all works out.

[Floureon]

Oops, I’m logged into my buddy’s account.

[ChrisRx718]

I've also done a 4WS conversion and wouldn't recommend it. You need either quite a fancy radio to run the servos or you need to open up two servos and solder them so they run in the opposite direction of one another. 

Then there's the outcome of dual axle steering. The WR01/WT01 is quite "wobbly" even when you throw a bunch of money at it. You have to turn the steering rate down so far that it really doesn't benefit from being 4WS any longer, you're better off with the stock setup and a good servo and servo saver.

Shock towers are a good upgrade, plenty available for the WR02 (Wild Willy) chassis which will suit and give tuning options.

My favourite variant of this chassis is a WT01 (RWD, single motor). Less complexity, lighter, faster in all but zero traction circumstances (particularly top speed) and it won't understeer like a pig, which is what the twin motor version does, no matter how much money you throw at it!

[davidwj95]

10 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

My favourite variant of this chassis is a WT01 (RWD, single motor). Less complexity, lighter, faster in all but zero traction circumstances (particularly top speed) and it won't understeer like a pig, which is what the twin motor version does, no matter how much money you throw at it!

I agree with this,  I converted my wild dagger to 2wd using the mud blaster 2 front end.  It's far more fun to drive now with a mild brushless system in it.  I made an aluminum chassis and shock mounts and used the high torque servo saver.  I did a build thread on it during lockdown.

[wolfdogstinkus]

More power to the back end will get you round the corners but not so great on the straights when the rear is trying to overtake the front.

I sold my 6wd wild dagger and the new owner turned it into this.

 

I wonder if that body survived the 3 brushless motors and the crazy handling??

[TurnipJF]

14 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

I've also done a 4WS conversion and wouldn't recommend it.

I would also not recommend it if speed is your aim. 4WS one works best for low-speed crawling or obstacle course traversing. For quicker driving over rough terrain I turn it off, or run my 2WS one, and for very quick driving over less severe terrain I use my WT-01.

 

[TurnipJF]

16 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

You need either quite a fancy radio to run the servos or you need to open up two servos and solder them so they run in the opposite direction of one another. 

If your radio doesn't support 4WS, you don't need to modify two servos. You could modify one, or use an in-line servo reverse module such as this one:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402507408901

[TurnipJF]

So how goes the upgrade process @RC_FunLand? Which options are you going to go for do you think? 

[RC_FunLand]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

So how goes the upgrade process @RC_FunLand? Which options are you going to go for do you think? 

I’ve purchases the upgrade 100mm shock mounts and Integy shocks.

 

upgraded servo mount (I don’t think I need the entire “plate”; I just got the aluminum variant to minimize bending/play.

 

caster blocks

 

metal clamping hexes (Tamiya)

 

new servo horn.

 

 

I don’t think I’m doing the 4WS conversion.

[TurnipJF]

16 minutes ago, RC_FunLand said:

I’ve purchases the upgrade 100mm shock mounts and Integy shocks.

 

upgraded servo mount (I don’t think I need the entire “plate”; I just got the aluminum variant to minimize bending/play.

 

caster blocks

 

metal clamping hexes (Tamiya)

 

new servo horn.

 

 

I don’t think I’m doing the 4WS conversion.

Looks like a good list. Please let us know how you get on!

[RC_FunLand]

So I got to installing a few parts last night. My biggest issue thus far is with the shocks.

 

They’re so-called “Coilovers” from Integy (https://www.ebay.com/itm/255819567222?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=ED1NHlblQU2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=fsSZ2mdpQCe&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY). They don’t work as intended; I put relatively frictionless oil (LOSI 40), yet they barely compress, and then do not return to their native position like most shocks do. Am I doing something wrong, or is this just a crap product?

 

@TurnipJF, @wolfdogstinkus, @davidwj95