Upgrading Tamiya Manta Ray

[Metus 0]

Hey guys,
I want to upgrade my 15~ years old tamiya manta ray, I've read a lot on the forums and I'm a bit confused, this is the first time I've decided to "open the hood" of the car.
Right now I'm running Nimh batteries and I've decided to move to LIPO's.

I ordered these parts:
-Aluminum motor mount
-x2 3S LIPO batt 2300mAh 45C
-HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 brushed ESC 60A
-53068 Tamiya high speed motor 540 Mabuchi
-TA02 high gear set(66T/69T)
-Aluminum main drive shaft for TA01/Top Force
-Aluminum pitch 0.6 hard coated 25T pinion gear
-Ceramic grease and 450 soft damper oil

Maybe its too late, but according to what I checked those parts should be compatible to my RC car right?
Is the 69T spur gear correct choice?
My aim is to upgrade it, but I'm afraid to overstress the car, I just want it to still be reliable, I'm using it seldom times on dirt and roads.

Any help would be appreciated , thanks!

[sosidge 670]

Running a Sport Tuned motor on 3s is going to shorten it's life (they are only rated for ab out 8.4V), running on on the higher voltage AND the speed tuned gears is going to put it under even more load.

3s 2300 Lipo is not a typical offering as a car pack so you may find that the battery doesn't fit well (Manta Ray tubs are fussy about the shape of the battery which is why a lot of people who buy a re-release just use a NiMH battery or seek out a round-edged 2s Lipo).

The aluminium motor mount is good and the Hobbywing is a good ESC. But personally I would just keep the car running on 2s.

[Mad Ax 10586]

I'm inclined to agree with sosidge - a 3S LiPo would theoretically give you around 40-50% more speed just with the stock motor and gearing, possibly more depending on how old your NiMH is and how well it is holding a charge.  With the speed tuned gears and the faster motor, it will be faster still - that's a big step.  Assuming the 3S batteries fit (I'm guessing they won't, unfortunately, without some modification to the chassis tub) then I would suggest trying it (carefully) with the original motor (assuming you have the standard silvercan) and see how well it goes.  Silvercans can usually handle up to 12V as long as you don't overheat them.

As sosidge also wisely points out, the speed tuned gear set will increase your gearing, which will put more heat through the motor.  Combined with the extra heat from running 50% more voltage, it could be too much for a sport tuned.  As a general rule, when we increase the RPM of the motor we drop the pinion size (or increase the spur size, or, more specifically, increase the FDR) to reduce heat and extend the life of the motor, ESC and battery - it's always a compromise.

A 2S LiPo with a Sport Tuned would give you a bit more wheel speed, and if your NiMHs are past their best then you'll notice a big improvement in runtime too.  I use Core RC stick packs for older Tamiyas as they fit the chassis well (other stick packs are too big and either they don't go in, or you can't fit the battery cover).  You don't say if your car currently has an older ESC, or the mechanical speed controller.  If you have the old MSC then you'll notice a big improvement in efficiency and driveability from the 1060.  It's a great speedo for the money.

The alu drive shaft, alu motor mount and hardened pinion are great upgrades worth doing.  The standard motor mount is known for breaking.

Does the car have bearings installed, or the standard nylon bushes?  Bearings will increase the efficiency and make it smoother, unless you like to run in muddy puddles and you don't like cleaning it afterwards (rubber shielded bearings help here).

Also you don't say where you drive - tarmac, dirt, gravel, grass?  You'll generate less heat on flat tarmac so you can get away with higher gearing, but if you're on grass then you'll want to gear low.  If you're doing a few straight line runs for top speed then you can run higher gearing, if you're doing tight and technical tracks with lots of acceleration and braking then you want to gear low.

I would personally suggest installing the Sport Tuned motor and the ESC and testing it out with your NiMHs to see how much extra speed you get.  If the motor isn't getting too hot after you've run a full pack through it, try the speed tuned gear set and see how much hotter it gets and if the higher speed is enough.  My next suggestion would be a 2S LiPo battery for longer runtimes.

Above all, have fun fitting those new parts  

[simalarion 2540]

I believe you should have started with 2s Lipo & Super Stock (cheap on Plaza Japan). I have that in Top-Force, a must have is a better motor mount, mine had a crack i could see when i replaced it.

With 3s you will burn 🔥 that 540 brushed motor pretty fast, if full throttle for a longer time you can burn it out on first battery.

I Run 3S in my Agrios but that has 2 Silver can and i have max forward 75% programmed in the ESC (some transmitters also have that option). You should do the same i believe.

And also 15 years old?, the plastic is then probably bristle so you may have plastic flying around and melting plastic very fast, i believe Manta Ray is plastic chassis and not Carbon like Top-Force (?)

 

It will be interesting though 🍿 

[Ray_ve 1192]

Might be a good idea to change the aluminium pinion for a steel one. I'm personally not a fan of the aluminium ones as they tend to wear and turn any grease grey with aluminium shavings.

Other than that, parts wise, my Blazing Star (same chassis) is about the same setup.

[Metus 0]

Wow guys thanks for the helpful responses, I'll order 2S LIPO batts, and keep you updated with the modifications 😀 

The car is stock except from the esc and motor which over the years passed away, I guess the car will mainly drive on tarmac and dirt.

[Aerobert 2326]

In order not to modify the chassis with a Dremel you should look for 2S Lipo batteries like this one:

https://www.amazon.de/dp/B08GYG8PGG?ref_=cm_sw_r_apan_dp_01R4DYKDZWJVZ3EB7HAV_1

or this one

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Akkupack-LiPo-Racing-7-4V-5000mAh-2N-30C-von-Jamara-/266295458587?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p4429486.m46890.l6249&mkrid=707-127634-2357-0

 

[Metus 0]

Well it seems harder than I thought getting those 2s rounded LIPO batts, I guess I'll have to pass the idea.
If I'll use NIMH batts the modifications/upgrades would still improve the car right?  should I do something different?
Thanks guys.

[alvinlwh 7227]

.

[Kowalski86 4275]

At 15 years old? I'd be checking for cracks, slop, or any wear before upping the performance. Then stick to NiMH like Tamiya intended, maybe go for 2S.

The hard coated aluminium pinion should be fine, it's the standard aluminium pinions that should never be used regularly.

[alvinlwh 7227]

.

[Metus 0]

Hey guys, 

I finally finished replacing and putting these parts:
- Aluminum motor mount
-HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 brushed ESC 60A
-53068 Tamiya high speed motor 540 Mabuchi
-High gear set 69T
-Aluminum main drive shaft
-Aluminum pitch 0.6 hard coated 25T pinion gear
-Replaced damper oils and regrease the gears

Also eventually I decided to stay for now with my old Nimh battery.
Edit: forgot to mention I calibrated the ESC.

I have 2 things which I'm worried and need your help:
1. In this video while using the throttle you can hear a ticking noise, I cant find the source of it, should I be worried at all?

2. The speed and the responsiveness of the car in reverse is awsome, but when accelerating forward its much slower.

Thank you all.

Hey guys, 

I finally finished replacing and putting these parts:
- Aluminum motor mount
-HobbyWing QuicRun 1060 brushed ESC 60A
-53068 Tamiya high speed motor 540 Mabuchi
-High gear set 69T
-Aluminum main drive shaft
-Aluminum pitch 0.6 hard coated 25T pinion gear
-Replaced damper oils and regrease the gears

Also eventually I decided to stay for now with my old Nimh battery.

I have 2 things which I'm worried and need your help:
1. In this video while using the throttle you can hear a ticking noise, I cant find the source of it, should I be worried at all?

2. The speed and the responsiveness of the car in reverse is awsome, but when accelerating forward its much slower.

Thank you all.

[droidy 91]

2 hours ago, Metus said:

have 2 things which I'm worried and need your help:
1. In this video while using the throttle you can hear a ticking noise, I cant find the source of it, should I be worried at all?

2. The speed and the responsiveness of the car in reverse is awsome, but when accelerating forward its much slower.

Thank you all.

1. Could the ticking come from the universal joints? Try compressing the suspension (carefully with your hand) until the universal shaft is horizontal/neutral, one wheel at a time, and see if that is related to the sound.

2. You're in ESC reverse mode (which is usually 50% speed) when the wheels spin in the forward direction. Reverse the throttle direction in your transmitter so that transmitter forward is ESC forward, then swap the wires between ESC and motor so that ESC forward is motor forward.

[Metus 0]

39 minutes ago, droidy said:

1. Could the ticking come from the universal joints? Try compressing the suspension (carefully with your hand) until the universal shaft is horizontal/neutral, one wheel at a time, and see if that is related to the sound.

2. You're in ESC reverse mode (which is usually 50% speed) when the wheels spin in the forward direction. Reverse the throttle direction in your transmitter so that transmitter forward is ESC forward, then swap the wires between ESC and motor so that ESC forward is motor forward.

1. I'm not sure I fully understand your meaning, when I compress the suspension of each wheel and then rotate it manually(the opposite wheel is in the air) I dont hear anything from the gearbox joints.
2. I did REV my throttle channel from my transmitter because it was driving backwards instead of forward, If I'll swap the motor wires I it wont burn the ESC(connect blue wire to + instead of -)? 

[Metus 0]

Swapped the motor wires, it somehow solved the rest of the problems, thanks everyone!