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Posted

I'd like to reduce the amount the suspension twists when power is applied to my CR01.  It's a monster truck now rather than a crawler and I'm finding the wheels are making contact with the body when starting off from standstill.  I'm looking to make it a bit more stable and don't mind losing some articulation.  It's only running a torque tuned so not quick at all.

I was thinking of trying thicker shock oil, the manual says the supplied oil is 400.  I was thinking maybe try 800? 

Does anyone know if this would work? Or have any other suggestions? 

I've got the standard springs in at the moment but I also have the barrel springs.  I've put the stiffer springs at the back as I've moved the battery back. 

Posted

Some form of sway bar would help with torque twist. Not sure if there is one available for the CR01 but it wouldn’t likely be hard to modify one from another model to fit. 

  • Like 1
Posted

The stock CR01 uses wire stabilizer bars that are routed from the backside of one cantilever to the one on the opposing side. I imagine stiffer ones could be made out of thicker wire, though Tamiya did offer a 3 piece tuning set of bars IIRC at one time. When I converted my old one awhile back, I also ditched the free standing coils and cantilevers for standard CVA shocks mounted from the frame to the axle.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the replies, I hadn't thought about the stabiliser bars I've just checked the manual and it looks like I have the medium bar in one end and the stiff one in the other.  I will look out for another stiff stabiliser and try a thicker oil as I was really looking for a cheap fix.  If that doesn't work I'll go to standard CVAs. @Saito2 Do you remember what size CVAs you used and how you mounted them?  How did it drive after you converted to that set up? 

Posted

Its been some time but I remember using the biggest pinion possible. This not only bumps up speed but will slightly reduce torque twist too. I think I ran a 12T 550 motor. The shocks I got were the CVA "short" versions. I got them on Fleabay. They originally came from a re-re Monster Beetle kit, but ones from the Blackfoot kit would work also, I think I mounted them somewhere down where the cantilever pushrod mounts IIRC and then up to one of the many holes in the frame. They were angled back I think. Keep in mind you'll lose the stabilizer bars if you remove the cantilevers altogether. With such a low geared tranny on a shaft truck, there's always some torque twist. You can also rearrange the chassis to position the battery cradle at the rear of the truck instead of the front. It drove fine but could be tippy when the speeds went up. I got more width by putting Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator wheels on it which had more offset for a wider stance. I think several members here have pics of theirs converted.

  • Like 1
Posted
20 minutes ago, Saito2 said:

Its been some time but I remember using the biggest pinion possible. This not only bumps up speed but will slightly reduce torque twist too. I think I ran a 12T 550 motor. The shocks I got were the CVA "short" versions. I got them on Fleabay. They originally came from a re-re Monster Beetle kit, but ones from the Blackfoot kit would work also, I think I mounted them somewhere down where the cantilever pushrod mounts IIRC and then up to one of the many holes in the frame. They were angled back I think. Keep in mind you'll lose the stabilizer bars if you remove the cantilevers altogether. With such a low geared tranny on a shaft truck, there's always some torque twist. You can also rearrange the chassis to position the battery cradle at the rear of the truck instead of the front. It drove fine but could be tippy when the speeds went up. I got more width by putting Wild Dagger/Twin Detonator wheels on it which had more offset for a wider stance. I think several members here have pics of theirs converted.

Thanks for that information.   I've already put the largest pinion in and moved the battery to the back.  With the torque tuned motor it isn't fast but it's sort of scale monster truck speed.  I have jc concepts wheels with adjustable offset so I can make it wider if it gets tippy.

I've found in my spares box a set of after market aluminium bodied shocks from an old king blackfoot project, I think  they will be about the same length as tamiya short CVAs so I'll have a go with them if the thicker oil doesn't help. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I wouldnt bother with the sway bars, it will still twist.  If you really want to get rid of it and have made a monster truck out of it ditch the cantilever setup and go with a typical coilover arrangement like @Saito2 did.  Same issue as the TXT-1, no amount of sway bar will stop that twisting, you need to have a traditional coilover shock.   A thicker swaybar will help also, but won't cure it on its own. 

  • Like 1
Posted

hmm.. been away for a bit and just getting back to some projects. I am worried about TT with my monster build, moving the battery to the back is going to make it a bit worse I imagine. Running short barrel springs on mine, stand up shocks and no swaybars. I'll post up what the results are when I get a test drive in. 

Posted

I've never run stand-up shocks on the CR-01, but I'm sure they will help a lot with the twist.  The real issue is the planetary gear transmission.  It's a fantastic piece, but causes all sorts of torque twist due to the low gearing.  Interested to see if you guys can overcome this. 

I love the transmission in these trucks, but only in a crawler type setup.  If you're really determined the make a monster truck out of it swap in an Axial 3-gear. 

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