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SRB Advice- Sport Tuned Motor, Slipper Clutch and Gear Ratio

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Hello all. I'm a NN (nostalgic newbie) in that I was into RC when I was WAAAAY younger and have recently want to get back into it. Since a lot of time has passed and I'm new to tuning I need some advice. A couple years back I purchased the Sand Scorcher ReRe and finally getting around to making it happen.

I have a sport tuned motor and slipper clutch II I've collected along the way. First, are there any advantages to the slipper with the sport tuned, or should I leave it stock?. If I do go with the slipper, what a good ratio for sport tuned? Is it worth the upgrade to a brushless motor with a slipper and what would be the ideal ratio? Lastly, I would love some opinions of a what brand brushless is good should I go that route.

A lot, I know. But any advice/info would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.

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Welcome to TC,

There lots of friendly contributors and enthusiasts here. 

Personally I wouldn’t over power an SRB chassis, the design is as old as Noah’s Ark and it will get swiftly over whelmed.

 

Standard silver can, Torque tuned or the Sports tuned you already have is plenty good enough I believe. 

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Thanks for the info.

If I were to use a Sport Tuned and Slipper, should I go with the stock ratio? I read elsewhere on here that the suggested ratio for sport tuned was 25/69, but not sure if the chassis makes a difference.

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Which slipper do you have? I’m not aware of a slipper that was released for the SRB? Only the ball diff

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Yeah, I agree with @Grumpy pants   This car compared to the Kyosho variant (Scorpion/Beetle) does not run well at all.  It's a great fun car with just the silver can.   Mine also runs ball diff (not sure about the slipper you mentioned, OP).

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A Sport Tuned will make it slightly quicker (and run hotter), but I'd drive it stock first just to get a feeling for the handling.

Brushless? I personally wouldn't run any vintage RC (let alone a Tamiya) with a brushless motor.

Any Tamiya re-re will drive better than the original thanks to ESCs, modern batteries, and not lugging a 4-pack of AAs around.

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6 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:

Which slipper do you have? I’m not aware of a slipper that was released for the SRB? Only the ball diff

Apologies. I have the DF-03, which I thought was the right one. Which after I saw your reply and looked into it, it isn’t remotely correct. I was basing it off a tutorial on this site not realizing it was a mod. Thanks old age. 😒

Looks like that negates a good portion of my question. It looks like stock it is for me, which is fine. 
 

thanks for all your replies and information. This is super helpful. 

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Very true @Willy iine - the Kyosho Scorpion + Beetle def handled better 

They also lacked a detailed, scale shell - so somehow end up less satisfying to drive ?

I don’t think anyone - even Dirt Burners back in the day - ever made an SRB slipper / and I’m not sure how one would be possible tbh ?

The Tamiya or Dirt Burners rear diff is equally tricky 

Yes - both will put more power down on hard surfaces - but who runs an SRB on tarmac or concrete ?

The diff is also utterly pointless on sand - and frustrating on gravel / grass … especially wet or damp

So +1 re @Grumpy pants suggestions for me - and def no brushless or lipo / the chassis simply can’t handle it 

If you go with a Sport Tuned, you’ll need to strip the stickers - and be ready to grease the shell / scratch it’s paint - as the SRB gear box is snug to say the least 

It also has to fit 100% flush or you’ll crack the clear plastic cover when you screw it down - which can take time / brute force 👍

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4 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

Very true @Willy iine - the Kyosho Scorpion + Beetle def handled better 

They also lacked a detailed, scale shell - so somehow end up less satisfying to drive ?

I

Not for me, man..   B) :lol:

 

IMG_2023-4-25-161516.jpg.b2de97b4ea8bd9d95a7de338cf94acb8.jpgIMG_2023-5-14-180058.jpg.8842ced518f05ca8917c47dba1b67d0c.jpgIMG_2023-5-17-184505.jpg.7b752b6f26073a59dd18aabc183a5e58.jpgIMG_2023-5-23-155902.jpg.14b6940108c5e64f2f7576f3cc147149.jpgIMG_2023-6-23-171727.jpg.bc033bfa8841c5e497e0e9f561792d9c.jpg

IMG_2022-12-18-170900.thumb.jpg.735d5c6faae5f119c62bdd1731a4960e.jpg

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The paint on that first one... :o

I actually really like the simplicity of the shell. Sorry @Willy iine :lol:

5 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

It also has to fit 100% flush or you’ll crack the clear plastic cover when you screw it down - which can take time / brute force 👍

Seemed to go in okay, clears the plastic cover and doesn't seem to be rubbing. But when there is torque, that could be a different story.

In other news, I'm the OCD type that like to find every mod, necessary or not, because I get way too excited. Need folks like you to set me straight!

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33 minutes ago, sfinsf said:

The paint on that first one... :o

I actually really like the simplicity of the shell. Sorry @Willy iine :lol:

 

:lol:   No worries, I have a SandScorcher too,  

IMG_Nov182021at90914PM.jpg.139b806524d22fe2b1402d2bf31d36d9.jpg

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4 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Not for me, man..   B) :lol:

 

IMG_2023-4-25-161516.jpg.b2de97b4ea8bd9d95a7de338cf94acb8.jpgIMG_2023-5-14-180058.jpg.8842ced518f05ca8917c47dba1b67d0c.jpgIMG_2023-5-17-184505.jpg.7b752b6f26073a59dd18aabc183a5e58.jpgIMG_2023-5-23-155902.jpg.14b6940108c5e64f2f7576f3cc147149.jpgIMG_2023-6-23-171727.jpg.bc033bfa8841c5e497e0e9f561792d9c.jpg

IMG_2022-12-18-170900.thumb.jpg.735d5c6faae5f119c62bdd1731a4960e.jpg

Superb along with your SS @Willy iine.

Genuinely lots of Kudos, great skills, fabulous collection and valued TC contributor 👏 

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10 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

Very true @Willy iine - the Kyosho Scorpion + Beetle def handled better 

They also lacked a detailed, scale shell - so somehow end up less satisfying to drive ?

I don’t think anyone - even Dirt Burners back in the day - ever made an SRB slipper / and I’m not sure how one would be possible tbh ?

The Tamiya or Dirt Burners rear diff is equally tricky 

Yes - both will put more power down on hard surfaces - but who runs an SRB on tarmac or concrete ?

The diff is also utterly pointless on sand - and frustrating on gravel / grass … especially wet or damp

So +1 re @Grumpy pants suggestions for me - and def no brushless or lipo / the chassis simply can’t handle it 

If you go with a Sport Tuned, you’ll need to strip the stickers - and be ready to grease the shell / scratch it’s paint - as the SRB gear box is snug to say the least 

It also has to fit 100% flush or you’ll crack the clear plastic cover when you screw it down - which can take time / brute force 👍

A fantastic font of knowledge @SuperChamp82.

So don’t bother with a diff with an SRB, is what I am reading here.

Couple of supplementary Q’s for you -

I’ll be running my mostly vintage SS in our back garden - 95% grass with the occasional visit to the woods and beach.

Which SRB tyre combo would you recommended? 
 

I have a set of SS, RR and SC tyres in my stash to use. 
 

And what are your thoughts on putting a SC servo saver and steering rods etc on my SS? 
EE345694-149-B-491-D-8-BA1-EE6464402-D1-

 

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5 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

Superb along with your SS @Willy iine.

Genuinely lots of Kudos, great skills, fabulous collection and valued TC contributor 👏 

Thanks.  Sorry for being obnoxious at times.  I like stomping on things from time to time, like the gas pedal.  :D

I will be working on Kyosho Beetle #7 soon.   And once I get a couple of those rear suspension modification bits from Taiwan, I will build the Fighting Buggy and perhaps the other SandScorcher I still have NIB.

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4 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Thanks.  Sorry for being obnoxious at times.  I like stomping on things from time to time, like the gas pedal.  :D

I will be working on Kyosho Beetle #7 soon.   And once I get a couple of those rear suspension modification bits from Taiwan, I will build the Fighting Buggy and perhaps the other SandScorcher I still have NIB.

That is a FAB bunch of VeeDubs man

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On 6/30/2023 at 6:42 AM, Kowalski86 said:

A Sport Tuned will make it slightly quicker (and run hotter), but I'd drive it stock first just to get a feeling for the handling.

Brushless? I personally wouldn't run any vintage RC (let alone a Tamiya) with a brushless motor.

Any Tamiya re-re will drive better than the original thanks to ESCs, modern batteries, and not lugging a 4-pack of AAs around.

What sort of brushless are we referencing? The silver can and torque tuned are faster than most 25.5, and a sport tune is close to most mild 21.5.  
 

I have run my SRB with an old Novak 13.5 and was still very tame, due to the limited gearing of the SRB. 

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On 6/30/2023 at 5:00 AM, sfinsf said:

Hello all. I'm a NN (nostalgic newbie) in that I was into RC when I was WAAAAY younger and have recently want to get back into it. Since a lot of time has passed and I'm new to tuning I need some advice. A couple years back I purchased the Sand Scorcher ReRe and finally getting around to making it happen.

Nice 👍🏻, sounds just like me (and countless others!!) a number of years ago.

If you think of an SS as a radio controlled scale model for simple enjoyment & not a thoroughbred race machine then you’re half way there already.

Just to add to some great advice already, tuning can be a personal preference to the environment and what you want to be able to do with the car.

I love the SRB’s for what they are as it was the Super Champ I longed for as a kid but never had one.

When a half built Buggy Champ came up on eBay a while back being sold with a Sand Scorcher body + both sets of wheels I just couldn’t resist and a deal was done.

Unbeknown to me at the time there was a, hard to find at the time, Ball Diff installed. I think the seller didn’t know either. (With just the fix spool in stock trim the car will grip roll on pavement.)

The chassis has see a lot of use wearing either the BC body or SS body on all kinds of terrain without any issues. (Apart from the softest of soft deep dry sand, but then it also only 2WD) It does tend to favour firm but loose, dusty type conditions.

Tamiya intended these to run their 6.6v life hump back batteries, but I don’t have one so had to modify the clear box and (micro) servo position to accommodate a square LiPo battery. While I was modifying, I also put a Hobbywing 1060 brushed ESC and lengthened the notoriously short on/off switch so it reached the original position in the clear box. The LiPo & ESC powering a Torque Tuned motor I find plenty fast enough for it. (I have a Kyosho 20T GX2 motor in the Fighting Buggy and is great in that one)

4CA1BF76-328A-4B8E-AF99-96AE2F3B2E92.jpg

 

 

With modern waterproof electronics the clear box is fairly redundant now like on the Fighting Buggy with its upper & lower decks it’s just a case of pulling a couple of split pins to install the battery instead of the hex head cam bolts of the SS clear box. Incidentally I also run a Ball Diff in my Fighting Buggy too.

 

There are lots of reports of the stock shocks  leaking but changing the black O rings to the Red seems to fix it, or just install the shocks upside works fine too.
Courtesy of member @shenlonco 😉

 

The only other thing I can recommend is when assembling the gearbox is to seal the 2 halves with a smear of grease on the mating surface joins to keep dirt out the internals.

Oh actually one more thing, buy a spare body set so have a pretty one for the shelf and one for running.

65C6E26C-73AF-4E60-BB10-9A6E94690FF8.jpg

580AEBEF-A71D-4F8D-BD5E-D89EA6073CA6.jpg

 

 

It was all Matteo’s doing that I ended up with a Sand Scorcher and I don’t regret it one bit…

 

Have fun with it mate 👍🏻

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Dani Rojas from Ted Lasso says Futbol is Life.

I say, SRB is life. Long live the SRB

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On 7/3/2023 at 4:08 AM, sfinsf said:

Seemed to go in okay, clears the plastic cover and doesn't seem to be rubbing. But when there is torque, that could be a different story.

Sounds like a flush fit then 👍

The torque obviously depends on the motor

A silver can should always be fine

A Sport Tuned may rotate in the casing as there are no lugs on the re re gearbox - especially if low geared on a fun surface 

If so, they crack the plastic shell as the end bell rubs round

Or as the motor wires turn so far they crack crack the plastic gearcase upper holes 👍

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On 7/3/2023 at 3:33 AM, Willy iine said:

Not for me, man..   B) :lol:

 

IMG_2023-4-25-161516.jpg.b2de97b4ea8bd9d95a7de338cf94acb8.jpgIMG_2023-5-14-180058.jpg.8842ced518f05ca8917c47dba1b67d0c.jpgIMG_2023-5-17-184505.jpg.7b752b6f26073a59dd18aabc183a5e58.jpgIMG_2023-5-23-155902.jpg.14b6940108c5e64f2f7576f3cc147149.jpgIMG_2023-6-23-171727.jpg.bc033bfa8841c5e497e0e9f561792d9c.jpg

IMG_2022-12-18-170900.thumb.jpg.735d5c6faae5f119c62bdd1731a4960e.jpg

Fine work as ever at @Willy iine 🙌

But those are street hot rods / not SRBs right ? 

And the bodies are a testament to your talent with paint rather than Kyosho scale 👏

Bet they do indeed handle well tho !!

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On 7/3/2023 at 8:14 AM, Grumpy pants said:

Which SRB tyre combo would you recommended? 
 

I have a set of SS, RR and SC tyres in my stash to use. 
 

And what are your thoughts on putting a SC servo saver and steering rods etc on my SS? 

It’s an odd one but SC rear sponge tyres work really well in a lot of places they weren’t meant for @Grumpy pants

They’re light, hugely ribbed and float beautifully in dry sand / grip nicely in the hard moist stuff 

They also wear out v quickly - so maybe a treat rather than every day ?

I otherwise prefer RR fronts - or @Willy iine has nailed the Optima set above / that you could transfer to a SS ?

Personally, I think Kyosho also made better tyres back then - and they would look superb beneath a SS !

Yes re the Tamiya SC servo saver - but be ready for breakages sir 

Its a high maintenance upgrade - as we’re pretty much all of the SC changes 

To be honest, the CRP early plastic front end upgrades are pretty much a pre-requisite unless you want to be off the road waiting for spares all the time ?

Ditto their rear arms and suspension brace 👍

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3 hours ago, SuperChamp82 said:

Fine work as ever at @Willy iine 🙌

But those are street hot rods / not SRBs right ? 

And the bodies are a testament to your talent with paint rather than Kyosho scale 👏

Bet they do indeed handle well tho !!

Thanks!  Actually these cars are all set up for off-roading.   I have a replica of the exact setup in corsa gray for outdoor driving and it actually drives well on the street and over bumps, grass and dirt.   I run both 19.5 BL and G14L brushed motors.  

This is why I want to get that Taiwan rear suspension mod on the SandScorcher before doing anything further on the car and Fighting Buggy.  B)  That said, the WildOne chassis is more my style as far as trailing arm design, I suppose. 

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On 7/3/2023 at 4:33 AM, Willy iine said:

Not for me, man..   B) :lol:

IMG_2022-12-18-170900.thumb.jpg.735d5c6faae5f119c62bdd1731a4960e.jpg

(took away some nice examples of the Kyosho Beetles to save space)

... But pray tell, where is the Wild Willy one? :D

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6 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Thanks!  Actually these cars are all set up for off-roading.   I have a replica of the exact setup in corsa gray for outdoor driving and it actually drives well on the street and over bumps, grass and dirt.   I run both 19.5 BL and G14L brushed motors.  

This is why I want to get that Taiwan rear suspension mod on the SandScorcher before doing anything further on the car and Fighting Buggy.  B)  That said, the WildOne chassis is more my style as far as trailing arm design, I suppose. 

Are you thinking of the RC Channel kit that removes the camber? 
 

QQ which stock SRB is the best runner - Sand Scorcher or Super Champ? 

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2 hours ago, Grumpy pants said:

QQ which stock SRB is the best runner - Sand Scorcher or Super Champ? 

My preference is the Super Champ.

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