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So I'm on my first-ever Tamiya RC build (Lunch Box), and I've done all my research about how to properly primer and paint using TS spray-can paints (washing and sanding first, heating up the can, etc), and then today I begin the primer process (Tamiya-brand white fine surface primer for plastic), starting with this kit's stock deep-dish wheels...but none of the spray goes beyond the outter-most lips of the rim!

Being sure to keep about 8 inches distance, and using light dusting strokes, I tried all sorts of angles (horizontal, vertical, diagonal, top-down), and some of the spray does hit the insides of the wheels for about 1-2 centimeter down, but absolutely no primer is hitting the very backs of the wheels' interior (where the holes are).

It seems that the only way I could possibly get spray primer/paint in that deep is to hold the can's nozzle directly inside the wheel and blast it - which of course would cause it to become very thick and muck up.

I've read that dye is an option (but since these wheels come yellow, and I want to color them TS-22 light-green, it might not work well), or I guess I could paint by hand with a brush. But I'd really love to hear and learn from anyone who has successfully spray-painted (airbrush not an option) their Lunchy wheels (or Midnight Pumpkin, since they seem to be the exact same wheels).

PHOTOS ATTACHED

Thanks!!!

(I'm new here, please be gentle ;)

 

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Welcome to the forum :) 

Seems you are going for a tough paint job on your first RC!!

Many years ago, I tried doing the same thing, painting the yellow wheels white. This is what I did and the results I got:

  • Like you, I started with white primer. This will actually cover better than the TS white since it is more opaque.
  • As you say, you won't be able to get much paint inside the wheel unless you put the nozzle right in, but that would result in swamping the thing with paint. I got the primer fairly close but not fully inside.
  • After several coats of white primer. I then sprayed TS26 Pure White. It didn't add anything, except perhaps a bit of shine, since the wheel had already several layers of the primer.
  • Even after this, there were still a few crevices slightly tinted yellow.
  • I realized that most of the lingering yellow tint was caused by light going through the yellow plastic and passing through the paint. Once the tire was placed on the wheel, most light was blocked and it looked less yellow (but still some).

What I would do if tried again.

  • Use black primer all over the rim. This is to block as much light as possible from entering the plastic.
  • Coat the black with white primer, as many layers as you think gives you enough coverage.
  • Spray TS white (or TS13 Clear if your white primer is too thick already).
  • Use white acrylic, applied with brush, on the bottom of the wheel interior.
  • Do a direct deep spray of TS13 Clear to seal the bottom acrylic.

Good luck!

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I paint a lot of monster truck wheels (JC Tributes mostly) and once you get it down its quite easy and comes out great.  You can forget most of what you read about spraying 8-10 inches away, light coats, etc.   None of it really applies to deep dish wheels. 

I stand the wheel upright and spray the center first, then spray at a 45 degree angle to get the lip while rolling the wheel along.  I'll do a lighter coat first but the main coat is usually done from about 2-3 inches away.  Yes, you need to be careful not to run the paint, but once you get it down you'll find it easy.  Also, I wouldnt bother with TS paints for wheels, good old Rustoleum 2x is the way to go.  I race my trucks pretty hard and the paint holds up great.  You can also get a better handle on the sheen with a standard paint with no need to clear.  

Here are a couple pictures I found on my computer of some monster truck wheels using the method above with Rustoleum.  

IMG_2844.JPG

IMG_3694.JPG

IMG_4084.JPG

IMG_4101.JPG

IMG_4632.JPG

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I usually brush on the TS (or primer) into the nook and then spray in short spurts 3-4inches away... and hope.. :ph34r:

But they usually turn out nice.  :lol:

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Welcome to the forums @im888, were a pretty friendly bunch here. As @Willy iine mentions you could try painting really awkward areas with a brush. The solid plastic of the wheels might allow for a wider choice of paint then just the spray ons we use on the lexan bodies including pots. If you would like to use a paint from a spray can you could always decant it into a pot and then paint with a brush. A good guide to decanting paint was written by @alvinlwh here

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/100302-decanting-spray-paint/&tab=comments#comment-891633

 

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The 8-10 inches suggestion on spraycans is always very conservative - half the time the paint will barely reach the surface from that distance! I think the aim is to stop first-time users from spraying at point-blank range and making a runny puddle of paint.

Short strokes from a 3-4 inches away should work better with obscured paint surfaces. Also, if you layer up several coats (letting them dry in between), you'll be surprised how much "real-life" opacity you get, even though the paint looks patchy up close.

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I like to use the 8-10 inches for flat or near flat surfaces.   I also use 13-15 inches for when I want a satin finish using gloss TS spray.  TS is super versatile paint.  I like it a lot as I can choose how much gloss I want without needing a top coat.  I can get super glossy or satin out of the same can.

High gloss on the gas pump, satin with some texture to simulate plastic on the jerry can.

IMG_2022-7-27-150915.thumb.jpg.dd01bf120de2fdac1486924c8f8a71ce.jpg

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I have sprayed multiple GF01 wheels from white to black.

Main issue I have found is spray paint doesn't work great pointed down. Put wheels on side  then spray horizontally. Very short bursts 3 inches out and keep moving. 

 

 

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13 minutes ago, Nikko85 said:

I have sprayed multiple GF01 wheels from white to black.

Main issue I have found is spray paint doesn't work great pointed down. Put wheels on side  then spray horizontally. Very short bursts 3 inches out and keep moving. 

 

 

Exactly what I was trying to say above.  Easy to paint wheels once you get the hang of it, no need to brush or do anything special.  

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On 7/7/2023 at 2:17 PM, Willy iine said:

I can get super glossy or satin out of the same can

Wait, you can change the matt/gloss effect purely by how far away from the object the can is when you spray?! Mind blown.

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3 hours ago, Gebbly said:

Wait, you can change the matt/gloss effect purely by how far away from the object the can is when you spray?! Mind blown.

Yes.. but are you just being sarcastic and making fun of me?  

If so, my wife does that all the time!  :lol:  haha 

"What?! you can talk and walk at the same time??!..  incredible!!"

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12 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

are you just being sarcastic

No, this had never occurred to me. I would have assumed what comes out of the tin was the same at any distance. I have no idea of the science behind different effects just from different distances. Now I'm going to have to be extra careful of the distance when I spray my GF-01 body.

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11 minutes ago, Gebbly said:

No, this had never occurred to me. I would have assumed what comes out of the tin was the same at any distance. I have no idea of the science behind different effects just from different distances. Now I'm going to have to be extra careful of the distance when I spray my GF-01 body.

If you're talking about polycarbonate paint (PS) for polycarbonate bodies, then unless you paint from the outside the outcome is pretty much glossy from any distance.   I thought we were talking about TS paint for hardshells and stuff, so this is why I mentioned the variation of gloss using distance.   It's real convenient for sure!  B)

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Wanted to say thanks to everyone above for their help. I'll probably incorporate a combination of everyone's ideas here as I continue to experiment with this. I could also try one unique idea per wheel to see which works the best.

P.S. @87lc2 those look amazing!!!

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