Can I cover up all those little holes at the bottom of the Lunchbox chassis?

[im888 8]

I hope I don't sound like a complete idiot for asking this (because I'm sure the Tamiya designers/engineers put these here for a purpose), but nonetheless would it be okay if I covered up all those holes scattered around the Lunch Box (and Pumpkin) chassis?

In addition to the sizeable circular hole in the bottom-middle of the chassis (which is centered directly above the battery compartment) there are about a dozen other little holes that I can't find any use for.

See my attached pic where I have circled these (I'm not including the suspension holes, the on/off switch space, the servo space, or the gap for the engine wires, and I understand that at least one of these are for the antenna).

I'm asking because I want to waterproof and sand-proof the chassis as much as possible as I will primarily be driving my Lunchbox at the beach and in sand dunes.

As for the actual covering up, I was thinking of using a hot glue gun and/or duct tape. Other suggestions appreciated!

[sosidge 754]

You can, but I don't think it is necessary. Even running in water and sand, holes like that can be as much a draining point as an entry point.

I would focus on installing waterproof electrics rather than waterproofing anything else. And clean, dry and lubricate the car as soon as possible after you have run it to avoid too much deterioration of the moving and metal parts. 

[Mokei Kagaku 2940]

It took the liberty of numbering the holes in your photo. It makes it easier to explain their origin and purpose.

1 + 4: These holes are upper damper mounts for the model the chassis first was designed for, 58044 Mitsubishi Pajero. They serve no purpose on later models.

2 + 3 + 5 + 6: These holes don't serve any other purpose than making the molding of the tabs above them feasible without using slide molds. 2 + 3 tabs are there for 58044, and serve no purpose on later models.

7: The cables between motor and speed control are routed through this hole.

8 + 11: These holes are for mounting the  rear suspension/gearbox and will be shut once you mount the rear suspension/gearbox.

9: These holes are for a rubber band to hold the receiver battery in place. Using an electronic speed control (ESC), a receiver battery isn't necessary, so the holes don't serve any purpose anymore.

10. This hole is for mounting the throttle servo. Using an ESC, this hole doesn't serve any purpose anymore.

12. These holes are for mounting the mechanical speed control (MSC) that the models using this chassis originally came with. Using an ESC, these holes don't serve any purpose anymore.

The big round hole is a result of the molding process and doesn't serve a purpose on the model .

So, apart from holes 7, 8, and 11, you can safely cover all holes. I agree with Sosidge though. The actual benefit of covering them is questionable and depending on how you run the model, it can even be a drawback.

[Saito2 8309]

Interesting this post popped up at the same time another member posed the question of "de-evolving" the forthcoming Pajero to look more like the original.

[Willy iine 18842]

I would consider taking a garden hose and just wash down the entire inside after the drive, so water-proof electronics is a must if that was my car.   Sealing the holes with some caulk could help keep some of the sand out, but you're basically driving on salt, so should wash it all off anyway to neutralize after the drive.

That said, I would be more worried about the gear box as they don't really seal up very well.. I suppose with some grease between the mating pieces can help, but sand and water mix with salt is not very friendly and seems to find a way in.

[smirk-racing 254]

Do you really intend to drive in salt water? Not saying you should or should not, just curious.

I drive extensively in the sand with this (and many other) vehicles and other than properly venting the tires (no holes in the wheels, only holes in the outer carcass of the tires) I don't do anything special. I have no maintenance issues to speak of. However, I do not drive in salt water ever (nor even damp sand).

 

[Grumpy pants 5549]

The only hole in the chassis I can remember using is #5.

I have the receiver cable hooked into it before it goes up the Ariel tube. 
 

Having said that, water proofing the electronics is a great shout from the others TC posters and as the body is fairly open to the chassis and the wheels are big you will undoubtedly collect a lot of debris in the chassis tub anyway.

Ours LB just runs around the garden and it predominantly collects dust and grass. 

[Willy iine 18842]

6 hours ago, smirk-racing said:

Do you really intend to drive in salt water? Not saying you should or should not, just curious.

 

For me, I would... why not, wet sand is fun to drive on with a rooster tail of water splashing behind the car.  The dry sand is pretty much infested with salt too.. I agree that dry salt does not do as much harm to the car vs wet, but I would just wash the car after the drive and use my 1:1 car blower to rid all water regardless..   I would check the gear box though after a few runs.. that would be my biggest worry. 

If I lived near a beach, I would dedicate a car or two just for this purpose and drive all out.       That said, I am thinking about dedicating a MadVan VE for winter driving in road salt this winter in front of my house.  

[im888 8]

Thanks - as always! - to everyone for your thoughtful replies (I haven't figured out yet how to "@" members in a post so that they receive a notification).

@sosidge Very good point! I might actually need some of those holes to drain out the water and sand.

@Mokei Kagaku Wow! Thanks for doing this!!! SO helpful!

@Willy iine Yep, I greased the mating pieces of the gearbox before screwing closed, and after screwing I also lined all the connecting parts of the gearbox with liquid rubber (probably won't stick on for very long after driving in rough conditions, but hopefully it helps a little as far as waterproofing).

@smirk-racing I won't be driving it directly in the water, but definitely along damp sand. Can you please explain in detail what you mean by properly venting the tires and covering the holes of the wheels? I am not using tire foams because I heard they soak up moisture but I was not planning on covering all those holes in the wheels because I read that if I do then the tires become ridiculously bouncy (due to the trapped buoyancy). Before I super-glue my tires to the wheels (which I was planning on doing this weekend) please let me know if I should be sealing up all those holes in the wheels.

[smirk-racing 254]

16 hours ago, im888 said:

 

@smirk-racing I won't be driving it directly in the water, but definitely along damp sand. Can you please explain in detail what you mean by properly venting the tires and covering the holes of the wheels? I am not using tire foams because I heard they soak up moisture but I was not planning on covering all those holes in the wheels because I read that if I do then the tires become ridiculously bouncy (due to the trapped buoyancy). Before I super-glue my tires to the wheels (which I was planning on doing this weekend) please let me know if I should be sealing up all those holes in the wheels.

 

For sand (or water) you need the venting holes to be on the outside, not the inside. That way the sand/water are forced OUT not IN. 
 

So - cover up any holes in the wheels with tape.

 

Then use a hole punch or a sharp tool to punch 2 holes evenly spaced in the tire. Maybe 3 if you like. 
 

Glue the tire and you will be good to go. 
 

Also - foams are fine to use as long as the tire is vented correctly. If you drive through water the foams can certainly get wet but they will also dry out (eventually) because the water will be forced out as the tire spins at high speed. I have foams in some of my beach runners and not in others. Doesn’t make a huge different for my driving. 

[wolfdogstinkus 2043]

*I'd say add more holes!. Ferrous oxide performance pack, rust lightening theory. Less weight more great.

*Advice not to be taken seriously and certainly not for a lunchbox chassis but this aluminium one in the link demonstrates that you don't need a solid chassis.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/374255861321?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=vf6vjp9xr--&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=AmMhQ-pWTKq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[Kowalski86 4780]

I wouldn't worry about the holes, but if you want to block them off just grab a block of plasticine clay, it's waterproof, not permanent, and its easy to clean off.

Be sure to mount your reciever high (maybe  buy one of those blue, transparent waterproof receiver boxes. Not a fan of the T-Word ones).

Run a waterproof servo since it sits low between the front wheels, the kit HW1060 is already waterproof (assuming that's what you're powering it with).