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EEK2112

Vintage V1 Hi-Cap Damper Oil Seal Replacements?

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Hello everyone!

I'm trying to bring back to life a set of vintage Hi Cap oil dampers (version 1)...I'm struggling to find a replacement Oil Seal (Top oil seal to replace the original Blue ones). Has anyone found a replacement or had this issue? I've tried a few different seals I had laying around but they are either too large or too small. The original Blue ones are hard and just leak oil through the aeration hole.

Any advice? Thoughts?

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I ordered some...I have a set of red seals but they are too big (don't remember what kit they are from). I ordered item number 9805486. Hopefully they will work.

Thanks Max!

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I know the problem, have asked some month ago here too.

Unfortunately, the reds are not as good as th original blue ones. And they have more rebound than the originals. Here Tamiya totally missed the train. They ruined their perfect Vintage Hicap design on the re-re´s. The only thing, which is better is the rod guide area with the screwing. Topclosing misses a mechanical stop for screwing them, and only compress the rubber ring of the bladder. So they come loose during use or you pop the bladder into the housing. They are just a only an optical match from the legendary old Hicaps in my opinion.

For repairing the old original ones, I thnk the best solution would be to 3d print a bladder similar to the originals from TPU rubber.I´ve seen some TPU prints, which are quite durable and could stand the loads in the shocks probably.

Kind regards,

Matthias

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I have a person that could reproduce these parts from an original blue one, not 3D printed, but molded with rubber. A big amount of rubber seals is needed to cover the costs.
If you find many people that want them I could ask.

Max

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If we find more than 40 pieces I can try to ask for the reproduction of these seals.

Max

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hello

i have just tried to rebuild mine as well i used light green bladders.one shock rebounds when pushed in on its own.the other shock rod just stays in when pushed in,with out springs on.what should it do.

 

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None of the existing Tamiya bladders are a good replacement for the V1 big Hicap blue bladders. From diameter, and shape. Hicap bladders are more flat, like later TRF damper bladders resulting in less rebound. Guess you are using the green CVA bladders for V1 front Hicaps?

@kontemax: This is a great offer Max, maybe we could find 40 peoples here, when making a bit rumour here. But let´s say we get ath least 40 bladders together, the price will be the keypoint for most TC members. But if you can get a range, how much the piece price would be roughly, this would probably make or kill the deal! Last year I bought 2 original blue bladders for 50€ out of need, but that´s a case that will not happen again in my hobbyroom.:rolleyes: TRF bladders cost about 5-7€ per a set of 4, so if a reproduction would cost maybe 20€ for 4, this would be a price may people would still afford for repairing an original Hicap Set? What do you think?

Still, a 3d printer version could still be a way to go, at least for veryfying a 3d model for a reproduction out of a mould...

Unfortunately, I´m not a 3d printer guy yet...B)

 

 

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Well, I'm not speaking about 3D printed bladder but a real rubber bladder.
I have a friend in Rome who makes rubber parts for the vintage Aprilia bikes that currently I restore.
I could ask to him.
He needs for sure two or more original bladder to make the mold then he could reproduce the parts.
I'm speaking for hypothesis because I need to speak ti him before.

Max

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Another question is the price for 4 pieces.
What is the affordable price for the members per 4 bladders, considering that they are handmade?

Max

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Ok guy, what I need to start is:

- some intact bladders to make the mould (4 pieces should be enough)

- number of bladder needed in the club

- price you want to spend for 4 bladders


With these things I will ask to my friend if he wants to create new bladders.

Please let me know mates.


Max

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