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Tamiya Instant Cement for Carbon Damper Stays - Can I Use Superglue?

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As above really - I'd like to crack on and seal the edges, but want to double check I wont ruin them...is superglue ok to use instead?

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17 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Tamiya Instant Cement is super glue, no?

I think he means he only has super glue, and not Tamiya Instant Cement.

Yes, just use normal super glue. But be careful not to get it on the faces of the carbon, otherwise it'll look a mess.

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Yes I only have superglue!  Nice one, I should get the front finished tonight and have time for a little test drive under the street lamps.  The London foxes really don't know what to make of Plasma Edge!!

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Super glue can become a white powederly mess, so I use Tamiya's plastic cement.. the orange cap one.  You can also use enamel clear coat.  The bare carbon just needs to be sealed from moisture if you're going to be driving out doors often.

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+1 re @Willy iine suggestion 

Tamiya cement is also way easier to clean if you miss / dribble slightly 👍

It can chip more easily if the chassis bends / is caught the wrong way - but rarely and easy to see / fix 

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Well I used superglue and it all went ok.  I didn't dribble any though I've got a couple of lumpy bits but they don't really notice. I was able to use the stock shocks and give the ride height quite a boost (more at the back than at the front) but now I have a problem.

Before I added the shocks I could hold the car and turn on the throttle to full and there was very little vibration, now it's like the wobbly bridge over the Thames - there's some sort of positive reinforcement going on and it gets really quite bad...

Here are some pictures of the car front and rear.  I wanted to bring the front shocks into the holes on the suspension arms closest to the middle of the car but they're block by the bumper, the rear ones aren't and as you can see, I've been able to get a good amount of lift.

The toe out on the front isn't as bad as it looks from the picture. One thing, I have put 3mm o rings in the cups of the universal shafts to stop the cups from coming out of the diffs - could that be it?  Or is the way i have my suspension set? Or are the carbon damper stays pushing all the vibration into the suspension arms?

image1 (1).jpeg

image0 (4).jpeg

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On 9/2/2023 at 1:13 AM, Willy iine said:

Super glue can become a white powederly mess, so I use Tamiya's plastic cement.. the orange cap one.  You can also use enamel clear coat.  The bare carbon just needs to be sealed from moisture if you're going to be driving out doors often.

Super glue is Cyanoacrylate glue. There are many of them on market.

If you have problem with white marks, probably glue have not dried and you touched it with something wet. My advice is to go with few tiny drops on the center of the edge and then with toothpick, try to cover small area. You can see this on my DT-03 and TT-02B builds.

I have doubts if plastic cement is good idea. Main difference is fact, that CA glue creates layer when plastic glue only tries to dissolve material. In fact, I am almost sure, that plastic glue adds only shiny effect and no protection for the edges. As static modeller, I used many different glues.

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Update.

I removed the O-rings at the back - no difference

Changed the damper position so it's further down the suspension arm towards the wheel - a bit of difference though still more vibration than before the carbon damper stays...

I have some 3mm shims coming so I'll use those around the suspension arms connections...

Also would some anti-wear grease in the ball sockets of the turnbuckles help?  I'm going to do the red O-ring/full CVA damper upgrade too with new shafts and ends etc so that might help smooth it out as well.

Also (2) should I not worry about vibration when it's not on the ground as I won't be running it that way anyway?

 

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When you raise the ride height, the dogbones have to run at a steeper angle, which is causing the vibration. You may want to limit the droop with internal shock spacers if you think the vibration is excessive. 

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