M-05 & M-08 duo rebuild/build

[Kowalski86 2099]

10 minutes ago, skom25 said:

@Kowalski86 there is one, big advantage of stainless shafts compared to screw pins. Shafts can be installed/ removed many times without any damage. Screw pins always wear thread just a bit.

Thats true, I really need to figure out how to handle e clips better.

Either one is better than the "Hornet style", plastic pivoting in plastic setup of the TT series.

[skom25 603]

Buy Tamiya e-clip tool. You will find my opinion here:

 

[Tamiyastef 1607]

8 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

setting up the diff

Super smooth  It's just the standard gear diff with a good amount of teflon grease. Just to cover the internal gears, nothing more as there is no seal.

[Tamiyastef 1607]

M-08 day today, allthough it was more "M-08 evening spare hour" day today 

As I left it after step 8 I started now with step 9:

  

Fixing the motor to the motor plate and setting the mesh between pinion and gears is easy enough. Removing the K4 part gives you enough room to get a good view on things and to change the pinion if needed/wanted. Pinion size is limited more by the width of K4 than by the slots in the motorplate. I think you can even get a 29T pinion on!

Next step is building the oil filled diff. IIRC it's exactly the same as that of the XV-01and I used the oil in it that came with the XV-01 as there's no oil for the diff included in this kit 

   

I used the 5.5 hex driver to push the red o-rings over the axles in the diff all the way to the bottom of the diff housing.

  

Step 11 done. As you can see I moisten the gasket a bit with oil on both sides before installation. Probably read it on here somewhere that it helps preventing leaks. It has worked on the XV-01 so far.

Step 12 is where the diff (I don't now if the direction is important but I made sure to put in exactly as per manual) gets in the chassis and the diff cover/gearbox is installed.

Then the K3 part is put into place. Its like a bridge over the motor and connects the chassis to the gearbox from above.

 

It's a habbit of mine to fasten crosswise if possible, a bit like you have to do with beadlock wheels. Even if it's only 4 screws like on this part 

Step 13 was the last step from screw bag A. Step 14 requires to open up bag B so I leave that for the next time.

I need also to remember to install the stabilizers. Just need to pay attention duringthe build as to when (and also how) to install them...

 

The instructions only mention the M-07... I was insured these are the correct ones for the M-08 as well.. Let's hope all goes well 

Can't promise to get back on this tomorrow, might be later this week before I find the time.

[Pylon80 1307]

On 9/3/2023 at 1:59 PM, Tamiyastef said:

I did that before for the silvercan speedrun but I guess I will have more power and speed than i can handle with this brushless set...

Which motor did you go with on the M-05?

I found that 20t is a bit too fast already for postal on my 17.5t 👍 I am using stock gears otherwise, as discussed already on another thread. I will try the 18t at some point but it might be on the slow side this time 😉 That wouldn't be surprising with me since my shoe size is right between 10.5 and 11 and my pants size right between 30 and 32, is that's not TMI 🤣

Your build thread is coming along very nicely, informative and well made 👌 Being for both the M-05 and M-08 is even nicer since these are probably the two best M's in my humble opinion. Keep it up sir!

[Tamiyastef 1607]

5 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Which motor

Complete overkill I'm afraid: Carson Dragster 10T (3600kv) motor...  

Timing will be set on 0° and "start punch mode" to very soft and gently 

6 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

coming along very nicely

Thank you! Niice to get some feedback as it is my first build thread. Learning as I go so to speak 

[Re-Bugged 9310]

Weird there wasn’t any Diff oil included in your M08?
Mine had a bottle of #3000 in it, as in the part list 54657  (2nd last item) on the back of the manual. It’s fairly thick gloopy stuff. 
 

Wonder if it’s a shipping restriction from where yours came from maybe?

Anyway glad you got it sorted, carry on 😉

[Tamiyastef 1607]

40 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

shipping restriction

I got it from my local hobby shop so we can rule that out.

41 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

a bottle of #3000

 

41 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

54657

 

41 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Weird there wasn’t any Diff oil included

Maybe, just maybe it's me 

I might have overlooked it, it may still be in one of the other screw bags, somewhere between the stuff from the tool bag or still in the box... 

First thing to check when I get started again. Will report back 

[cstorckiii 153]

Quote

Last step for this page is putting the pinion on the motor. You get a special "tool" going under the name of "The pinion stopper" with the M-05 for getting the right distance so the gears allign correctly. 

FYI: the M05 V II manual shows a different pinion height measurement.

[Tamiyastef 1607]

18 minutes ago, cstorckiii said:

a different pinion height measurement.

 

Now looking at where on the spur the pinion damaged it, 17mm seems to be on the far side. 

Measured them: Spur is 5,65 mm wide, pinion only 5,00 mm. The part that's damaged on my previous spur is only 4 mm wide. 16mm will have the whole pinion in contact with the spur, I might redo the pinion on the M-05 and set it to 15,70 so it sits in the middle of the spur and the pinion is completely contacting the spur. Thank you @cstorckiii

[cstorckiii 153]

Glad I could help.

[Tamiyastef 1607]

7 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

any Diff oil

 It is in the manual indeed,...

 

Now where could it be???? 

 It's lying here in the plastic tray where all the parts form bag A were. All the time! How did I missed that? 

[Tamiyastef 1607]

So on with the build(s) 

For the M-08 the left and right universals each get a build step of their own, I allways use a very small amount of AW Grease on the internals of universals. 

  

Some remarks though...

Tamiya not only asks you to build a universal, they also ask to drill a hole in a part that comes from the parts tree with 3 holes in it already fresh from the mold... so why not 4 holes?

A nice blue aluminium spacer is provided here, so why black plastic ones in the gearbox? 

This earlier mentionned aluminium spacer makes the bearing stick out of the rear hub on the outside. They could have made the rear hub a bit wider, no?

 

Same issues on the other side...   

Next step (16) is making and attaching the adjustable upper links and attaching the rear axles and upper suspension arms to the chassis

  

Now I know again why I have all these tools 

Step 17 is a political correct one, attaching both the left and right "wing" to the chassis  

 

 

 

[Tamiyastef 1607]

Now back to the M-05 . We left at step 11 so carry on with step 12 where the aluminium counterweight comes into play.

The "gasket-like" motor protection thing was not used in order to maximise the cooling effect of the aluminium motor mount and this counterweight. This looks so cool once installed 

 

Now I have done this during my lunch break and only after that found out (thanks to @cstorckiii as you can read above) I should redo the pinion. As I (of course) ordered the wrong aluminium motor mount in the first place I'll have to take the whole car apart again once the correct one (#54184) arrives. That will be the moment I change the distance the pinion is mounted on the motor shaft but also the pinion itself... it's now a 22T pinion, it will be a 24T pinion. After the planned speedruns the whole setup will likely be switched back to a stock silver can (or sport/torque tuned) for postal racing reasons 

That was it for today 

[Kowalski86 2099]

@Tamiyastef

When you get to the steering in your M08, you should look up the "direct to servo" mod that bypasses the bellcrank setup entirely. It's supposed to help cut down on slop.

[Honza 704]

4 hours ago, Tamiyastef said:

Some remarks though...

Tamiya not only asks you to build a universal, they also ask to drill a hole in a part that comes from the parts tree with 3 holes in it already fresh from the mold... so why not 4 holes?

The holes are done with rods in the mold. They can't really cross, so this hole is left with thin material layer. This has been a thing on all Tamiya models that use this securing method.

 

4 hours ago, Tamiyastef said:

This earlier mentionned aluminium spacer makes the bearing stick out of the rear hub on the outside. They could have made the rear hub a bit wider, no?

The spacer doesn't cause the bearing stick out, the hubs are just designed that way. Not sure why, maybe to allow for thinner hexes? The 1050 bearings can fit can fit inside the wheel hex.

[Andreas W 1111]

11 hours ago, Tamiyastef said:

Now I have done this during my lunch break and only after that found out (thanks to @cstorckiii as you can read above) I should redo the pinion. As I (of course) ordered the wrong aluminium motor mount in the first place I'll have to take the whole car apart again once the correct one (#54184) arrives. That will be the moment I change the distance the pinion is mounted on the motor shaft but also the pinion itself... it's now a 22T pinion, it will be a 24T pinion. After the planned speedruns the whole setup will likely be switched back to a stock silver can (or sport/torque tuned) for postal racing reasons 

That was it for today 

This looks stunning. Your M-05 is even more hopped up than mine. I had a hard time last year sourcing the last hop ups. The motor mount in particular, since every shop had the Ver 2 mount 54609, but the Ver 1 I wanted was out of stock everywhere. 

 

As I also got a barely used second hand M-08 last week I  am following that with big interest.

[ChrisRx718 4135]

3 hours ago, Andreas W said:

This looks stunning. Your M-05 is even more hopped up than mine. I had a hard time last year sourcing the last hop ups. The motor mount in particular, since every shop had the Ver 2 mount 54609, but the Ver 1 I wanted was out of stock everywhere. 

Why do you want the Ver1 #54184 mount? Only difference I can see is the dog-leg angle of the piece to the top right which allows fitment of the DF-03 cooling fins. I thought that as I had the Ver2 chassis plastics I would need the Ver2 mount #54609.

As it happens I managed to find 54184, but could not find 54609!! 

I'm so confused. 

[Re-Bugged 9310]

12 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

I'm so confused. 

This is a discription of the #54609, hope it helps..

• For: M05 Ver.II PRO and M05 Chassis variants
• Material: Aluminum
• Color: Blue
• This motor mount moves the motor position 1.5mm toward the center on the M-05 version 1 chassis. On the M-05 Ver.II chassis, it moves the motor 4.5mm toward center.
• Improves chassis balance and motor efficiency.
  
   
• (P.S I find that 54609 helps even out the flat spots on my M05 tyres left to right sitting on the shelf with a now more even weight distribution). 

[Andreas W 1111]

17 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Why do you want the Ver1 #54184 mount? Only difference I can see is the dog-leg angle of the piece to the top right which allows fitment of the DF-03 cooling fins. I thought that as I had the Ver2 chassis plastics I would need the Ver2 mount #54609.

As it happens I managed to find 54184, but could not find 54609!! 

I'm so confused. 

I have the Ver 1 chassis and didn’t know better last year other than to Hunt down the old version. If I were to do it again I would have built it as a Ver 2 with the corresponding motor mount, to get the full advantage of the different motor position in the Ver 2. Now it is working and I leave it as is.

 

I see now that our eminent Re-Bugged has explained the differences in an excellent way.

[Pylon80 1307]

Regarding the lateral balance, once you start using the aluminum lightweight battery holder, you are free to slide the battery left or right as required to get the perfect lateral balance. So the argument of a better motor placement becomes moot. I made a bit of a write up on itin my build thread.

First here with the long pack:

Then here when I switched to a much nicer shorty pack:

 

[Andreas W 1111]

@Pylon80. Of course you are right. This works perfectly fine when you have the Ver 2 chassis and a shorty or a square pack, for that matter. When you have the Ver 1 and are stuck running round oacks with the cables running out of the end the body is the limitation. I had a multi plug battery with a deans connection in the end. With a modified plug (cables soldered 90 degrees on the plug) the whole thing fits hairfine inside without boulging and rubbing the body. Now with the shorty it's dancing space in there and I can start thinking about weight balance . 

[Tamiyastef 1607]

First: Thank you all for your interest and useful comments!

Second: Carry on with the M-05 step 13

I won't be building the stock pogo sticks Tamiya calls dampers, I'll use the yeah racing aluminium set with threaded bodies I build before.

Here they are installed, same as the front bumper. The F5 spacers were both split/broken. If this was due to the last frontal crash or by getting the BB1 screws to tight I don't know. I replaced them with some spare CVA inner limiter things, you can see they have a slightly smaller diameter as the original F5 parts but the plastic they're made of seems a bit less brittle IMO. 

 

With the front end done on the M-05 we get back on the M-08 rears end 

Step 18  have these parts attached to get some body posts on later on. 

On the left of step 18 in the manual is mentionned how to install the antenna post, which I'm not going to do.

Step 19 is installing the rear body posts  and step 20 "build" on that...  

This is something I hadn't taken into account earlier. I'm not sure if I want to go with post and pins, magnetic or velcro so for now I'm skipping these... 

On the left of step 20 in the manual we get this: 

 These screws and B5 parts are included in the M-08 kit.

They are on the left in this tray, on the right are the parts from the stabilizer hop up needed for the rear: 

I used a M3 screw to get thread in the adjuster,   

before using the Tamiya hex driver as a lever to install the blue "stabilzer end" in the adjuster. 

I used callipers to measure and the damper pliers for holding the long adjusters, to make these two: 

Two "snaps" later the rear stabilizer is ready   

This will need some fine tuning once I get to the driving stage I presume. Now step 21 needs us to...

 crack open screw Bag C. That wil be for next time.

I'm really enjoying this dou build thing. One is a rebuild and the other a complete NIB build one which, for me at least, keeps me from "speeding" to get the build done and almost force me to take my time for this. Together with the pictures/writing/posting it feels like I'm more involved in the (re)build. Even then next time we start on the third out of four screw bags, we reached the halfway point already. Of course that's not taking into account the time consuming body/decal job...

[Tamiyastef 1607]

On 9/6/2023 at 10:25 AM, Re-Bugged said:

This motor mount moves the motor position 1.5mm toward the center on the M-05 version 1 chassis. On the M-05 Ver.II chassis, it moves the motor 4.5mm toward center.

I need to check how much of the pinion width is actually in contact with the spur on the M-05. As the gear case is completely closed the only way I can think of doing this right now without disassembling the whole chassis is with a bit of coloured grease on the pinion. Nevertheless when the version 2 alu motor mount arrives disassembling will be necessary and the I can just measure the distance between the spur and then motor mount.  

[Tamiyastef 1607]

Thanks to @Re-Bugged pictures will appear bigger from now on 

So back to the M-05 step 15. For future reference I made notes earlier of the TL-01 parts I used here to get a wider track in the rear. 

The parts looks way wider than the drawing in the manual.

Bolting this to the totp of the chassis and at the same step getting the beautiful aluminium suspension mount underneath.

  

From this side you can clearly see it has been used before... but all in all damage is limited IMO.