TT02 budget speed build

[Scottrc 233]

Hi guys. 
Been racing TT01/02’s for a little while now and still really enjoy the budget chassis especially with all the hop ups available. 
Recently seen on YouTube that poor boys rc are doing a speed run challenge for brushed and brushless TT02’s. 
my friend and I both have TT02’s laying around so thought it would be a great idea to see how fast we can make them go. 
We are both going to compete in the brushless class. I have an old cheap 2/3s brushless sensorless esc so have bought a cheap brushless sensorless 3100kv motor to go with it. 
My TT02D already has ball races, alloy prop, adjustable motor mount, high speed gear set and yeah racing oil shocks. I’ve got a Honda Accord low drag body to cut and paint for it too. 
Just need to work out what spur and pinion gears I will need?!? 
Has anyone else used a TT02 for speed runs?

I have the same cheap motor and esc in my ftx zorro trophy truck and that managed 30mph so I’m hoping for around 40mph with the TT02. 
Will upload some pictures soon. 

[Kowalski86 5262]

If you haven't changed to a 48p spur gear, that'll open up your gearing options a bit.

I strongly reccomend different hexes with a wider offset, even some basic plastic ones will be fine. The stock wheel hubs with the brake discs can wobble at higher speeds. A wider offset will give you more stability.

Some cheap, basic mods to the steering for stability should help, and Yeah Racing turnbuckles.

If you look around, some members use long turnbuckles that attach from the front arms to the bumper, this significantly stiffens up the whole front end.

 

[Nefarious 27]

I have a half dozen TT-02 cars in various configurations. One of my Favorites is my 3rd build, a little underdog made up of various colour parts and an epoxy repaired chasis! Lovingly named '3rd Da Turd'!😆

Anyway, Turd has a 2s/3s Trackstar 80a Turbo ESC with a Trackstar 13.5t motor in it. This motor is a sensored 3040Kv Brushless so very close to what you are using as far as RPM per Volt. Turd can pass 45mph easily with Turbo enabled and on 3s

I am using a high speed gear adapter with 0.6mod 64t Spur + 30t Pinion giving Turd an FDR of 5.55. For a spot on FDR using a 13.5t motor I would want to be as close to an FDR of 4.5 as possible but for practice/bashing you would want to gear  your FDR a little higher to prevent overheating and stressing out your running gear (ESC & MOTOR).

BUT!

You want to speed run, this would mean you would want an FDR at exactly 4.5 or even lower considering you will be running the car for short l3ngths of time thus helping to prevent overheating and you want to reach the highest speed possible. To figure out your FDR ((assuming you are using standard size wheels and tires (btw, grab a set of foams, for asphalt maybe a set of Contact 30mm-30 to 35 shore rear and 26mm-325o37 shore front))  you use the TT-02 Internal Gear Ratio of 2.6 then multiply that number by the result of the following equation:

(Spur tooth number÷Pinion tooth number).

So using Turd as an example we would have (64÷30)×2.6=5.5466666667 or an FDR of 5.55.

Use that equation as a start and move lower until you start seeing your motor (or esc or battery) getting to hot, get a cheap temp gun and watch your temps! RCJuice has both of their infrared temp guns on sale this week for $15 & $13 each!

Trying to use a pinion over 31teeth is not easy without modification of your gear cover so as Kowalski86 stated swapping your Tamiya 0.6mod spur gear out for a 48p would be a great idea especially since your running speed runs. Or look at getting a Tamiya 64t or 60t spur gear.  You may want to get a higher KV motor if you can. Even a super cheap F540 4370kv will outrun a 3100kv as a speed run car. Or a great choice and cheap is the Surpass Platinum 3650-5200Kv, it is around 30 bones, pretty good quality having larger internal shaft and ball bearing diameter than a standard sensorless Surpass and is very fast while not asking to much from an ESC.

One of my other TT-02 cars is set up for speed and is running a 6.5t motor which in this case  is a 5520Kv motor. This is a fast car, very fast, like outrun a stock Vendetta WITH it's speed pinion installed off the line and top end, EASILY! The only reason this car can handle a 6.5t motor (imo) is by using a Tamiya Club member's build tips... especially with the drivetrain! The member's name is TMM and the post is named "TMM's TT02 / TT02B Garage". I used every tip he offered and I haven't had a diff fail or even make "clicking" noise....just smooth hard running for almost 3 years now. A cheap and easy way to make a tough diffrential for the TT02 is to build a TT01 diff instead! You need the metal TT01 gear pack and TT01 diff case (because the TT02 is a 4 way diff and the TT01 diff is a 3 wat and therefore the diff cases not compatible. This is a VERY cheap option and makes for a VERY tough diffrential and its "drop in" compatible with the TT02 diff box. You can even grap a GPM metal Ring gear (outer diffrential gear) for around $15 and a GPM driveshaft bevel gear for under $10 giving you an inexpensive ALL METAL drivetrain (minus the spur but you can get that in metal as well but you dont need it and it adds rotational mass you just dont want).

Integy makes a front suspension guard, I used one as a pattern to make a front splitter and then added a generic rear diffuser from MST for around $13 each. This keeps air from bouncing your car around from underneath. Cutting the back completely off your RC Body is a very cheap tip for speed run cars! Reason, at speed the back end of your body acts like an upside down spoiler and will lift the rear of the car with more force than even a large rear wing can compete against! So a small rear wing (for aerodynamics) and removing the rear of the body to allow air to flow out will work better in most cases. You can get sheets of lexan of varying thicknesses at Hobbytown or Amain to make yourself an underpan to seal up the bottom of your car to the edges of your body, Velcro wotks great for temp mating the 2 together. Keeping air from finding places to slow you down or buffet your car out of a straight line are VERY important.  Speak8ng of keeping a straight line, turn down your Transmitter's Dual Rate on Channel one, you dont want or need a lot of steering ability when your trying to just go straight! You can also turn up your Exponential. 

 

Friction is described in the 

First law of thermodynamics!

(friction was recognised as a mode of conversion of mechanical work into heat)

Friction is your enemy in sp33d runs, wether it be from the air, the faster you go the more energy you will need to power through the air! Then there is rolling resistance so you need true, flat and often skinny tires, And then there is your drivetrain, all the gears and the ball bearings and the dogbones or CVDs and on and on. You want that TT02 to be able to roll downhill without pushing it to get it started, preferably WITH the motor in it! But some motors have magnets so strong this is not possible, so without the motor is fine.

You can use Graphite powder in your inner diffrential outdrives and outer hub axles where your dogbones go in, and put some graphite powder in a paper towel or napkin and rub the powder into the ball ends of your dogbones and cups the bones go 8nto, & the inner and outer  swing ends of your upper and lower Arms, & the outer ball ends of your upper and lower Front Arms. This will make them almoat as slick as potentially possible, graphite is one of the most slippery substances known to man. And best part is it is absolutely DRY and will NOT EVER attract dust or dirt and will even repel it by way of dust/dirt "slipping off! .  Its super lightweight and Graphite powder is available very cheap at hobbytown/Amain in their Pinewood Derby section in a bottle with a long metal needle application tip for again VERY CHEAP!

I use Arrowmax and/or Yeah Racing ball bearing lubricant. The Yeah Racing brand is very sticky leaving strings between your fingers when you seperate your fingers with some lube between them. Thus helps it stay where it needs to be, but adds a small amount of resistance. The arrowmax is just good clean lube for bearings, any brand will do. Keep them clean and lubed for smooth rolling and long life.

I know a lot of peeplez use lithium grease in their diffs when running speed runs, its amazing lightweight diff lube. I use Tamiya AntiWear inside all of mine as per TMM's recommendation. You dont need any lube inside your differenttial box on the diff ring and propellor shaft bevel gears but i add graphite powder there and have had zero problems with any of the diffs outer ring gears wearing.

Weight is another enemy of speed runs. If you follow most people's recommendations you will remove the TT02 motor shroud and scoop as it "retains more heat than it removes so remove it and replace with heatsink". But if you were to measure the distance between the scoop's 4 screw holes one would find they are 30mm apart, therfore Tamiya probably assumed one would install a lightweight 30mm hi speed fan in between the scoop and the motor cover!

I did! I put a highspeed 32,000rpm Arduino fan (with LED in it) in it and the whole thing weighs less than a small alloy heatsink and fan and cools much better pushing the air  ONLY around and through the motor  instead of all over the place. Also you want the fan to suck fresh air down onto the motor, not pull it away.

A good Whats that all about then? (Wild Turbo Fan) or any hi speed fan will do, but use a plastic one for more weight reduction.

Please forgive me if i stated anything you already know , definitely not trying to run over top of your knowledge and experience, and forgive my spelling errors, fingers BiG & fone keyboard small! 😆 (and brain gassy so farts often! 😂).

I hope you tear up the speed record in your challenge! It a fun thing to attain, SPEED! But be careful, it's definitely addictive! 😉 😜

[Scottrc 233]

18 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

If you haven't changed to a 48p spur gear, that'll open up your gearing options a bit.

I strongly reccomend different hexes with a wider offset, even some basic plastic ones will be fine. The stock wheel hubs with the brake discs can wobble at higher speeds. A wider offset will give you more stability.

Some cheap, basic mods to the steering for stability should help, and Yeah Racing turnbuckles.

If you look around, some members use long turnbuckles that attach from the front arms to the bumper, this significantly stiffens up the whole front end.

 

Thanks for the help. I haven’t bought any pinions or spurs yet so 48dp would be a good option. 
Didn’t think of wheel hexes. I do have some spare alloy 7mm hexes so will fit those. 
I already have adjustable turnbuckles for the steering but may need some parts to take some slip out of the steering. My TT02 carpet racer has the yeah racing steering hop ups with an extra steering bridge that works well so may go for that. 
Haven’t seen the turnbuckles from the top arm to bumper so will take a look thanks 👍🏻

[Scottrc 233]

15 hours ago, Nefarious said:

I have a half dozen TT-02 cars in various configurations. One of my Favorites is my 3rd build, a little underdog made up of various colour parts and an epoxy repaired chasis! Lovingly named '3rd Da Turd'!😆

Anyway, Turd has a 2s/3s Trackstar 80a Turbo ESC with a Trackstar 13.5t motor in it. This motor is a sensored 3040Kv Brushless so very close to what you are using as far as RPM per Volt. Turd can pass 45mph easily with Turbo enabled and on 3s

I am using a high speed gear adapter with 0.6mod 64t Spur + 30t Pinion giving Turd an FDR of 5.55. For a spot on FDR using a 13.5t motor I would want to be as close to an FDR of 4.5 as possible but for practice/bashing you would want to gear  your FDR a little higher to prevent overheating and stressing out your running gear (ESC & MOTOR).

BUT!

You want to speed run, this would mean you would want an FDR at exactly 4.5 or even lower considering you will be running the car for short l3ngths of time thus helping to prevent overheating and you want to reach the highest speed possible. To figure out your FDR ((assuming you are using standard size wheels and tires (btw, grab a set of foams, for asphalt maybe a set of Contact 30mm-30 to 35 shore rear and 26mm-325o37 shore front))  you use the TT-02 Internal Gear Ratio of 2.6 then multiply that number by the result of the following equation:

(Spur tooth number÷Pinion tooth number).

So using Turd as an example we would have (64÷30)×2.6=5.5466666667 or an FDR of 5.55.

Use that equation as a start and move lower until you start seeing your motor (or esc or battery) getting to hot, get a cheap temp gun and watch your temps! RCJuice has both of their infrared temp guns on sale this week for $15 & $13 each!

Trying to use a pinion over 31teeth is not easy without modification of your gear cover so as Kowalski86 stated swapping your Tamiya 0.6mod spur gear out for a 48p would be a great idea especially since your running speed runs. Or look at getting a Tamiya 64t or 60t spur gear.  You may want to get a higher KV motor if you can. Even a super cheap F540 4370kv will outrun a 3100kv as a speed run car. Or a great choice and cheap is the Surpass Platinum 3650-5200Kv, it is around 30 bones, pretty good quality having larger internal shaft and ball bearing diameter than a standard sensorless Surpass and is very fast while not asking to much from an ESC.

One of my other TT-02 cars is set up for speed and is running a 6.5t motor which in this case  is a 5520Kv motor. This is a fast car, very fast, like outrun a stock Vendetta WITH it's speed pinion installed off the line and top end, EASILY! The only reason this car can handle a 6.5t motor (imo) is by using a Tamiya Club member's build tips... especially with the drivetrain! The member's name is TMM and the post is named "TMM's TT02 / TT02B Garage". I used every tip he offered and I haven't had a diff fail or even make "clicking" noise....just smooth hard running for almost 3 years now. A cheap and easy way to make a tough diffrential for the TT02 is to build a TT01 diff instead! You need the metal TT01 gear pack and TT01 diff case (because the TT02 is a 4 way diff and the TT01 diff is a 3 wat and therefore the diff cases not compatible. This is a VERY cheap option and makes for a VERY tough diffrential and its "drop in" compatible with the TT02 diff box. You can even grap a GPM metal Ring gear (outer diffrential gear) for around $15 and a GPM driveshaft bevel gear for under $10 giving you an inexpensive ALL METAL drivetrain (minus the spur but you can get that in metal as well but you dont need it and it adds rotational mass you just dont want).

Integy makes a front suspension guard, I used one as a pattern to make a front splitter and then added a generic rear diffuser from MST for around $13 each. This keeps air from bouncing your car around from underneath. Cutting the back completely off your RC Body is a very cheap tip for speed run cars! Reason, at speed the back end of your body acts like an upside down spoiler and will lift the rear of the car with more force than even a large rear wing can compete against! So a small rear wing (for aerodynamics) and removing the rear of the body to allow air to flow out will work better in most cases. You can get sheets of lexan of varying thicknesses at Hobbytown or Amain to make yourself an underpan to seal up the bottom of your car to the edges of your body, Velcro wotks great for temp mating the 2 together. Keeping air from finding places to slow you down or buffet your car out of a straight line are VERY important.  Speak8ng of keeping a straight line, turn down your Transmitter's Dual Rate on Channel one, you dont want or need a lot of steering ability when your trying to just go straight! You can also turn up your Exponential. 

 

Friction is described in the 

First law of thermodynamics!

(friction was recognised as a mode of conversion of mechanical work into heat)

Friction is your enemy in sp33d runs, wether it be from the air, the faster you go the more energy you will need to power through the air! Then there is rolling resistance so you need true, flat and often skinny tires, And then there is your drivetrain, all the gears and the ball bearings and the dogbones or CVDs and on and on. You want that TT02 to be able to roll downhill without pushing it to get it started, preferably WITH the motor in it! But some motors have magnets so strong this is not possible, so without the motor is fine.

You can use Graphite powder in your inner diffrential outdrives and outer hub axles where your dogbones go in, and put some graphite powder in a paper towel or napkin and rub the powder into the ball ends of your dogbones and cups the bones go 8nto, & the inner and outer  swing ends of your upper and lower Arms, & the outer ball ends of your upper and lower Front Arms. This will make them almoat as slick as potentially possible, graphite is one of the most slippery substances known to man. And best part is it is absolutely DRY and will NOT EVER attract dust or dirt and will even repel it by way of dust/dirt "slipping off! .  Its super lightweight and Graphite powder is available very cheap at hobbytown/Amain in their Pinewood Derby section in a bottle with a long metal needle application tip for again VERY CHEAP!

I use Arrowmax and/or Yeah Racing ball bearing lubricant. The Yeah Racing brand is very sticky leaving strings between your fingers when you seperate your fingers with some lube between them. Thus helps it stay where it needs to be, but adds a small amount of resistance. The arrowmax is just good clean lube for bearings, any brand will do. Keep them clean and lubed for smooth rolling and long life.

I know a lot of peeplez use lithium grease in their diffs when running speed runs, its amazing lightweight diff lube. I use Tamiya AntiWear inside all of mine as per TMM's recommendation. You dont need any lube inside your differenttial box on the diff ring and propellor shaft bevel gears but i add graphite powder there and have had zero problems with any of the diffs outer ring gears wearing.

Weight is another enemy of speed runs. If you follow most people's recommendations you will remove the TT02 motor shroud and scoop as it "retains more heat than it removes so remove it and replace with heatsink". But if you were to measure the distance between the scoop's 4 screw holes one would find they are 30mm apart, therfore Tamiya probably assumed one would install a lightweight 30mm hi speed fan in between the scoop and the motor cover!

I did! I put a highspeed 32,000rpm Arduino fan (with LED in it) in it and the whole thing weighs less than a small alloy heatsink and fan and cools much better pushing the air  ONLY around and through the motor  instead of all over the place. Also you want the fan to suck fresh air down onto the motor, not pull it away.

A good Whats that all about then? (Wild Turbo Fan) or any hi speed fan will do, but use a plastic one for more weight reduction.

Please forgive me if i stated anything you already know , definitely not trying to run over top of your knowledge and experience, and forgive my spelling errors, fingers BiG & fone keyboard small! 😆 (and brain gassy so farts often! 😂).

I hope you tear up the speed record in your challenge! It a fun thing to attain, SPEED! But be careful, it's definitely addictive! 😉 😜

Thanks for your help! Any info possible is great as I am a complete beginner to speed runs. I’ve only ever raced indoors on carpet and this is a completely different ball game! 
Looking into the gearing I was thinking of aiming for around an FDR of 4-4.5 as thinking I will do a run then let it cool right down before another try so hoping heat won’t be a big issue. 
I do have a bigger motor (4200kv) I could borrow out of my brushless converted ftx zorro truck. Didn’t know if that would be too big and would cog and get too hot?!? Will have a search through and see if I can find TMM’s build. 
Thanks for your tips I have a feeling I’ll need all the help I can get 😂

[Scottrc 233]

 
How the car started off. A stock TT02D with a sport tuned motor and ancient esc! Was great fun to drive around a carpark but didn’t really get much use. 

Carries out the steering bridge mod, I have done this on my carpet car and it made the steering a lot more responsive with less play.

A couple of upgrades to help me change the gear ratios. Aiming for around an fdr of 4.

How it’s looking now with the shell painted and fitted 😳😂

Still waiting for a new motor, steering servo and pinion and spur gears. Hoping my parts will arrive next week to give it a run at the weekend 👍🏻

 

[Nefarious 27]

What size is the 4200kv?

A larger motor, like a 3660 or 3665 would be able to turn a larger pinion gear pretty easy. Wouldnt get hot as easily as a a smaller motor with a high kv turning a large pinion. Trial and error i guess would justify which would be better but im leaning towards the larger 4200kv , just my opinion though. Your a carpet racer so you have awesome experience 👏,  a knowledgeable racer you are and so I am completely confident you will "send it"!!!! 😆 

Im going to look at my Version 2 blu and see what FDR its running. It has had Ruddog R542 4.5t geared at drag runs and speed runs. And now has 6.5t 3650 5100kv in it. I kept chart of all gear ratios for each motor in each car. I have Excell spredsheet if you want or need help with gear selections. Bigget motor can handle lower FDR than 3650 so that would be advantageous,  and a 4200kv large motor is awesomely fast, my Arrma Vendetta came with a 3660 3900kv motor in it stock and it was pretty quick. I have a Turnigy XK 3665 3190kv with 30t pinion and 50t metal spur and its faster now with heaps more torque, so it can top out faster than it is with a spool for smaller spur, but its just a basher for now, has a sweet nissan z body so.i dont wanna wreck it....much!

And you definitely on the ball with being able to run low FDR since your just running a straight you can let it cool down. Thats right where you want it to be with your FDR, where motor gets  to its temp allowances , you dont want to overheat because magnets loose gauss when heated and that will make your motor loose power. (Gauss:Unit of magnetic flux density).

160°F max, try to keep it 140°-150°F, you can use a little temp pen like a HobbyStar HT-101 Infrared Thermometer, or Am@Zn has nice temp guns cheap, just get one (or make sure yours you already have, has) with adjustable Emissivity.  This allows you to change how the temp gun reacts to diffrent surface types, wether it be steel, aluminum,  plastic, marble, beast! 😆 It should already be permanently set to alloy range or have adjustability to set it @ alloy or @ aluminum or your temp finding results will not be accurate!

Start slower fast and work up to faster fast, best tip i can think of! You want to find trouble first,  DONT let it find you!!!!!

Wobbles turn to fishtales turn to cartwheels turn to pieces!

 

 

Btw, you can see some good speed run techniques used oem at RLAARLO website. Check.out their current AK-917 model .

[Scottrc 233]

On 9/16/2023 at 4:59 PM, Nefarious said:

What size is the 4200kv?

A larger motor, like a 3660 or 3665 would be able to turn a larger pinion gear pretty easy. Wouldnt get hot as easily as a a smaller motor with a high kv turning a large pinion. Trial and error i guess would justify which would be better but im leaning towards the larger 4200kv , just my opinion though. Your a carpet racer so you have awesome experience 👏,  a knowledgeable racer you are and so I am completely confident you will "send it"!!!! 😆 

Im going to look at my Version 2 blu and see what FDR its running. It has had Ruddog R542 4.5t geared at drag runs and speed runs. And now has 6.5t 3650 5100kv in it. I kept chart of all gear ratios for each motor in each car. I have Excell spredsheet if you want or need help with gear selections. Bigget motor can handle lower FDR than 3650 so that would be advantageous,  and a 4200kv large motor is awesomely fast, my Arrma Vendetta came with a 3660 3900kv motor in it stock and it was pretty quick. I have a Turnigy XK 3665 3190kv with 30t pinion and 50t metal spur and its faster now with heaps more torque, so it can top out faster than it is with a spool for smaller spur, but its just a basher for now, has a sweet nissan z body so.i dont wanna wreck it....much!

And you definitely on the ball with being able to run low FDR since your just running a straight you can let it cool down. Thats right where you want it to be with your FDR, where motor gets  to its temp allowances , you dont want to overheat because magnets loose gauss when heated and that will make your motor loose power. (Gauss:Unit of magnetic flux density).

160°F max, try to keep it 140°-150°F, you can use a little temp pen like a HobbyStar HT-101 Infrared Thermometer, or Am@Zn has nice temp guns cheap, just get one (or make sure yours you already have, has) with adjustable Emissivity.  This allows you to change how the temp gun reacts to diffrent surface types, wether it be steel, aluminum,  plastic, marble, beast! 😆 It should already be permanently set to alloy range or have adjustability to set it @ alloy or @ aluminum or your temp finding results will not be accurate!

Start slower fast and work up to faster fast, best tip i can think of! You want to find trouble first,  DONT let it find you!!!!!

Wobbles turn to fishtales turn to cartwheels turn to pieces!

 

 

Btw, you can see some good speed run techniques used oem at RLAARLO website. Check.out their current AK-917 model , but first look at their 

Hi all three motors I have the 3100, 4200 and 5900 are 2845 size. I’m guessing the 2845 is the size!?! Is that the actual measurement of the physical size? I really have no idea 😂. At the moment I have the 3100 motor fitted with an fdr of 3.96.  I took it out for a shakedown run when I took my kids to the park and found an old astroturf bowls court. It was completely flat but not as big as I need. I didn’t have a lot of grip or space but easily hit 26mph on 2s, think with a decent road it would do 40mph. The car drove great though nice and straight and no breakages or crashes. When the 5900kv motor turns up I will fit that and see what happens 😂. 
Only problem I have now is that the weather has turned awful for the next week! 
thanks for your help!

[Nefarious 27]

Yessir! It is the physical size. First two numbers are the diameter and second two are the length. So a 2845 is 28mm in diameter and 45mm long (which happens to be the same size as a BRUSHED 390 motor 😉).

I have a similar size and Kv motor you mentioned, your 2845, i have a 2848 5900kv. And i have used it in a stock TT-02 just to see what it could do. It did better than i expected. I also have Surpass Hobbies KK series 2845 - 4200kv, & 3600kv. My favorite 28xx motor is a Purple & white, Turnigy XK 2848 - 3650kv motor. It's as pretty as it is powerful. I run it in a MERV (1/16 Mini Erevo) with a tiny dark blue,  USB programmable,  Rocket RC 60a ESC (based off the , not very well known, Hobbywing eZRun-60A-SL esc) Its a wicked combo!

The TT-02 comes with both a 390 motor mount & a 540 motor mount. The brushed 540 is the same size as the 1/10 scale rc industry standard 3650 Brushless motor (36mm diameter & 50mm long). You can pick up an inexpensive 3650 size Brushless motor for between $20 & $35 bucks and your TT-02 will come alive with much faster speed & power or some of both. For bashing you would want something close to a 13.5turn or 3300kv , its just a good middle ground motor that can be a little of either fast by gearing lower fdr or powerful by gearing a little higher FDR. My favorite TT-02 has a Trackstar 3650 -13.5t 3040Kv in it with an 80a Turbo ESC and its fast and powerful! (pro tip: when you see motors rated by "turns" you can tell if it is sensored or sensorless by the "turn" number, if it has a ".5" after it its sensored like 13.5T, if its a solid number with no decimal like 13T then its going to be a sensorless). Anyways, if you want speed slap that 5900kv in your car, it will give you some of that speed your looking for! And the 4200kv is also a fairly descent basher motor in a TT02, but a faster-basher! My White TT-02 has a 3650 - SkyRC Ares Pro Ver.3 - 8.5t motor in it that hovers around the 4000kv mark and its got tons of top end and plenty of power it has a 120a ToRo esc powering it.

Id say go with the 5900kv and when you get used to it get yourself a 3650 motor, your TT-02 will really wake up with a 3650.  if you still want it to be a speed run the Surpass Platinum 3650 - 5900kv motor is a very good bit of kit for not much monetary loss!!!! It is actually a strong and fast motor having larger bearings (than its brothers), a bumped rotor, heavier guage wire and connectors, and it tests very well in reviews and on my SkyRC Motor Analyzer. Its usually under / or at $30 bucks. You will be amazed at the speed!!!!!!! 

 

Absolutely the best upgrades you NEED to get are the alloy driveshaft, alloy adjustable motor mount, high speed gear set , all u already have, and a decent alloy steering upgrade, the plastic steering can bind, you can cheaply upgrade the steering you already have using "Tamiya 54550 RC TT02 3×18mm Step Screw 2Pcs". Its a pack of Low Friction step screws to replace the step screws holding your steering to the chassis. Around $5 bucks. It can help smooth your steering out. If you are using the stock spring shocks see if you can find a set of oil filled shocks. Tamiya CVA Super-Mini shocks work great and do not break the bank. They are $22 for a set of 4 on Am@Zn.

[Scottrc 233]

Good morning. Just a quick update with what I’ve been up to with my car. Been really busy lately and not been able to get out for a run and trying to find somewhere suitable has been harder than I thought. 
I was working Saturday morning and decided to take the car with me to find somewhere on my way back. Luckily on a nearly empty industrial estate round the corner from my work I found a completely straight and flat road. 
Haven’t got the bigger motor or a 3s battery yet but took it for a run. After getting the steering trim set up it drove really straight and felt easy to drive. I managed to get full throttle ok and did a couple of speed runs without any issues. 
Checked my max speed and it was 38.9mph. Not bad for a first go with the smaller motor on 2s. 
The poor boys rc speed run challenge finishes on Saturday and I’m going to give it one more final run with my friend who has also built a tt02 for the challenge on Wednesday. He also has a 3s battery he is going to let me use so should get some more speed. 
Im hoping my bigger motor turns up in time but it’s looking a bit like it’s been lost in the post 😢

 

[Scottrc 233]

Good afternoon. 
The poor boys rc speed run challenge finishes tonight so this morning was my last opportunity to give the car a run. Luckily the weather was dry and warm this morning so me and my friend Adrian from Atomartrc took our cars to the road near my work for a run. 
I was the Guinea pig and went first. I did a few warm up runs on 2s. Unfortunately I was still using the smaller motor as it looks like my big 5900 kv motor is lost! The car felt really stable on 2s and I did a couple of good flat out runs. Just as I was about to bring it in and check the speed something happened to my steering and it would only turn left 😬. Luckily it was just a stone wedged in the steering so easily fixed. I checked my time and I managed 40mph on 2s so was happy with that. 
For my next run I fitted the 3s battery. Instantly I could feel it had so much more power. Started with a couple of slowish passes and added a bit of expo to the steering. Then I gave it the beans! It felt really fast and was a bit of a handful but still controllable. Did around 4 runs without any drama and brought it in as I was at full throttle and was as fast as it would go. Checked my speed and a very respectable 55mph on 3s! Was very pleased with that. 
Adrian’s car has a much better motor and esc and looked like a real handful wheel spinning and snaking around. He managed 65mph straight away but still feels like there is more speed there. We cut the rear wing off and he then managed 66mph. Still think there’s more in it but we called it a day. 
We had a great morning messing about with the cars and considering we had never done anything like this before I think we did alright. 
 

Above is the link to my YouTube entry to the speed challenge if you want to have a look. 
If my other motor ever turns up I will still fit it and see if I can go faster as really enjoyed it 👍🏻
Have a look at Adrian’s channel Automartrc on YouTube too he has loads of Tamiya content. 

[Nefarious 27]

I saw the video and i think that was a great pass. You made good speed!

The car looks good. 

I have some "rock sheild" drafts I could send you that will prevent rocks from jamming your steering up!

I use anything from spent gift cards, expired credit cards, left over Lexan, or just some hobbystore plastic and cut these out to keep rocks from getting a chance to embed themselves.

I will tey to figure out a way to post it while keeping the size correct.

Also, you write really well! I was really into your speed run practice reply, i was on edge of my seat waiting to hear result!

[Nefarious 27]

These are some of my TT-02 cars.

The one with the 3rd one with the grey  Tamiya adjustable upper arms is a nearly finished new build, unnamed as of yet. It has a Yeah Racing RWD Drift Steering upgrade but I made it work while keeping the car 4wd. Took some trail and error and a modification to the inner upper arm support , but it turned out good I think. It has 4850kv purple Turnigy XK motor and 120a Turbo Boosted esc with independent gyro.

2nd one was my first TT-02 and was a present from my wife (ya, she's a keeper for sure! 😉 ). I nic named it "Version 1 The Red One". Has 160A Pro Turbo Boosted esc with 8.5t Pro modified motor. Brushless Servo. Independent Gyro. Its a show pony, shelf queen.

1st one is "Version 2 Blu" with 6.5t motor and 120a Turbo Boosted esc. Gryo integrated in receiver. It was my speed run car until i started another build using a TA04 with a sensored 3650 Turnigy XK 10500kv beast of a motor! It will be powered by a OMG 160 Sensored Turbo esc. Should break 100mph easily.

[Nefarious 27]

A couple other builds. I couldn't upload all of them on the same reply post.

First one is "Version 4 Cuatro Blanco"

Second one is named "3rd da Turd" and is my third TT-02 build. Was supposed to be a scrap heap junker with little hope of being anything worth keeping! Has the smallest esc, a Trackstar Turbo 80a AND the slowest motor, a Trackstar 13.5t sensored. And the cheapest servo a JX low profile 4409mg! But somehow this car has stolen my heart as it's been a thrill to drive! It has a perfect balance of speed and power , it drifts well enough, i can even slap on some Tamiya rally tires and it will handle a little offroad action! Maybe its because its my only TT-02 with actual Sway Bars installed, all will have them soon enougb, but Turd got them first because Turd is the test dummy for all new parts!

it was hit by a novice Dragster driver which cracked the chassis but after a little epoxy and black paint you wouldn't know it was ever hit! (The guy's drag slash had a cracked bulkhead, chassis, left front A-arm, left and right upper Turnbuckles,  and his ESC melted when two wires were sliced by something and shorted! So well ya, the TT-02 is a pretty tough lil rc car! 🤣 

[Scottrc 233]

3 hours ago, Nefarious said:

I saw the video and i think that was a great pass. You made good speed!

The car looks good. 

I have some "rock sheild" drafts I could send you that will prevent rocks from jamming your steering up!

I use anything from spent gift cards, expired credit cards, left over Lexan, or just some hobbystore plastic and cut these out to keep rocks from getting a chance to embed themselves.

I will tey to figure out a way to post it while keeping the size correct.

Also, you write really well! I was really into your speed run practice reply, i was on edge of my seat waiting to hear result!

Thanks I’m glad you enjoyed the video. I still don’t know what I’m doing as I’m a carpet racer not a speed runner but i had a great time. Learnt a lot too so will definitely do some more speed runs soon. 
 

That’s an impressive collection of TT02’s! My TT02 was my first proper hobby grade rc car and it’s my favourite rc I have. Really enjoyed carpet racing it, but now race an mtc which is faster and handles better but if I could only save one car it would be my original TT02! Funnily enough it’s an open night at my local carpet track Tuesday and I’m dusting off my TT02 for a race!

Thanks for the idea I have some left over lexan so will make something to stop the rocks. 👍🏻