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LongCatisReal

Classic Body rebuild : vr6 Golf

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While looking for body's for my ff-03 I came across a vr6 body , completely painted black, missing stickers and broken bits that fell off later while stripping the paint. 

Nice thing is that it came in the original body box. 


I have stripped the paint
Sanded windows and few parts that had glue on them or had to much haze ( I would love to leave the windows clear ) 
Unable to find any decals for the car but like my Opel Vectra I might be able to build lights and paint the trim parts. 

I am unsure what color to use, I would love the original purple/aubergine color ( PS18 looks neat ) otherwise it will be the same as my Opel ( gun grey I think it was ) 
 

Again for some reason I am unable to add many pictures, I will try and figure if I can hyperlink them on here to share the process of this nice find. 

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Many bits are brittle and came off as said before. 

I feel like repairing the body with reinforcing cement from the inside and paint from the outside. 
Any one here got tips for painting from the outside ? also do I need clear coat on top of it ?

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A little bit of process ( very hard as its missing small parts in corners and such ) 

If anyone can help, I would love to know what kind of filler I can use for the small holes in polycarbonate. 
The reinforcing cement is not great for fills but good to keep the body flexible and in piece. 

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The body came in box and the original cutout underneath ( which helped in this case to keep the car in shape while reconstructing the broken bits ) 

The black stuff in the corner is sadly enough some strong type of glue I could not get rid of ( might grind it off later when the corners are sturdy as I want to create realistic lights on this model ) 
The other black bits are outside the body ( from the paint killer ) so when it is all dry and sturdy I will be able to wipe it off safely ( back window is going to be tough as you can see in the pic the top is missing bits / very brittle ) 

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Here is a early result of sanding the front window ( kovax sandpaper and polishing with compound ) 
|I have restored my dad's headlights of his car so pretty much the same process only need to be more careful.

Sandpaper Kovax k800 / k1200 / k1500 
Compound 3m heavy cut 

Polishing by hand & machine ( the machine can only get the front window as the pads are too big ) 


When the restore process of the broken / brittle parts are done I will polish all the windows and hopefully get them clear as new ( normally possible but with this body it is atm way too brittle ) 

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You are doing a fantastic job of bringing this back to life 👏

Hopefully some other TC’ers can help with your question about filler types.  

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21 hours ago, LongCatisReal said:

Any one here got tips for painting from the outside ? also do I need clear coat on top of it ?

What a nice and ambitious project! For painting from the outside you could use PS paint as a primer and TS paint for finishing. I've didn't tried it yet by myself but read about it several times.

 

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Thanks for the info guys. 

I guess for it to stick I will use ps paint on outside, but I wont TS over it ( just secondary layer for the color effect & ps clear ) I have tried acryllic but that has not good flex and chips loose 'inside painted'

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It was not my intention to completely rebuild all broken bits, but while cleaning most of them broke off ( paint was holding up most of the brittle areas ) 

Here so progress pics of what I have done. 

 

 

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I think we are halfway there. 

Most side parts reinforced ( holding the cracks ) 
Rear bumper and side alignment looks good ( no weird curves or shapes, but at the final paint job this will be visible ) 
The rear bumper also has a thicker lexan strip across for rigidity ( the flex is not too huge so holds up nice ) 
Need to fix front bumper lip/lower ( 75% of the bits are recovered ) otherwise I will add lexan from old bodies and cutouts

 

I did find my gtr spoke wheels with 1 offset, so if they match nice I wont need to buy new ones. 


Finally
While it was not the real plan to restore the body this much it just happened like that and I am stubborn, I really feel like it would be a great loss not to revive this body as its from 95 I guess. 

 



 

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The body can be considered done. 

I will look for some type of bondo or epoxy for the small holes ( there are few on bumper / corners / licence plate area etc )

 

The original parts were like a puzzle and missing bits like explained before, I am unable to post some pics as I get a -200 error. 

The lower part of the front bumper was cut clean so I could insert a strip of lexan ( first pic ) and a flat one later below that. 
It looks good enough for me now, after bondo/filler and paint we will see if any more details are needed. 

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The cutout of the original golf can be seen under and I used that one as a reference for the body shape

Edited by LongCatisReal
added info
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Yesterday I was unable to find me some good filler for the holes so I ordered some transparent epoxy ( hopefully this will do the job ) 
The last big bit I have finished is the spoiler / window area. 

The spoiler holds most of the lexan and the rear window is the thinnest piece of lexan you can find on this model, I have filled the gap with reinforcing cement and added fiber to hold it. 
If the epoxy arrives I can fill the gap ( the spoiler ) and it will have a strong hold on the rear window, finally giving me the chance to buff / sand that rear window. 

This should be the final bit of completing the body / holes , when this is done I will paint the body white so it will have a base layer of PS paint. 

 

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Got me the following done lately 

Paint body lightly where needed to see what areas need fixing or adding material to. 

Try out tamiya cement ( too soft )  not the one on the picture
Try out epoxy for plastics ( a bit harder ) 
Try out uv hardened glue set ( hard like lexan can be used to even fill a body post hole ) this means I can also fix my opel vectra body holes as mine are not evenly drilled I fear. 

Cleaned up also old black glue that was behind the taillight corner

The green areas that light up under uv is the epoxy glue glowing. 

I feel like this body can be rebuild really good now ( if those parts do hold up ) 

When this is done I will be picking the colors. 

( I do want the bumper and plastic trims to be black so doing the car completely black will hide those details. 
 

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Edited by LongCatisReal
added info glue
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If anyone is looking a good glue to close off holes / body post holes in their body I would say this is the way to go. 
I just added tape from the inside on 3 holes behind my golf vr6 body and filled/dripped from the top and put the uv on. 
Sand it down and add again if more is needed. 

Really good stuff, and it stays transparent. 

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Sanding down the correct shapes/contours from outside with uv glue

It still needs work as the alignment of the rear is not perfect ( you can see I closed the body holes in the back ) the glue looks like a miracle ( it has flex but is like glass ) 
Please mind that the angle does make it look good but the rear bumper is too close to the wheels ( just scraping or 1mm )  I did everything I could with the ff-03 to  L / M / S but still cannot find a sweet spot. 

Is it possible that the body fit a ff-01 better then my ff-03 ? ( I feel like my body posts are crooked  ) 


And the box underneath is a complete original TL-01 I bought today ( missing body only ) 
I think finding the original body with stickers is going to be the hardest part ...

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Edited by LongCatisReal
Could not upload last image ( renamed / retried )
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I'm loving this restore project, I have a couple of old bodies I'd like to repair too and this is giving me lots of ideas.

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Adding material / sanding / polishing 'windows' etc 

 

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Rear window was sanded down and polished  ( it is still not as good as front or sides but acceptable ) there is not much material to work with

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Many spots are added and raised with uv glue ( pretty fun stuff, going to snap 100% if you hit the body ) 

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I used light coat Tamiya PS-1 to act as a cover to display the lines and bad spots  ( this could be a crack or uneven filled area as its transparent )

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The raised spots are reinforcing cement ( as I sanded it all down ) its too flexible/soft on the outside. 

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Sanded state

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Front corner has the most material added, so either this will survive everything or will be the first spot to completely break off the body. 
The more I try to fix, the less I think I will take it out ( if all goes well )

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