TS equivalent to PS-54

[Pylon80]

For my next body I will need to color-match the lexan body itself to front of the car that's made of ABS. I usually spray the ABS from the same can of PS then apply a clear coat of TS. Well, I wasn't too pleased with the result last time. So this time I want to use TS on the ABS per the instructions.

Just eyeballing it, even though they are called something different 🙄 it looks like TS-41 Coral Blue is a match to PS-54 Cobalt Green?

I do feel silly asking if green is the same as blue... but the paint "chip" on the Tamiya website looks really close.

Thanks!

[Willy iine]

Before getting punched in the face again, all I can suggest is you try it on a white card (for TS) and clear piece of polycarbonate (PS).   That is really the only way to tell if the range is acceptable specifically to you or not.

I did the same on the MID's wing.   The center portion is TS.  It's a close match between these yellow/orange colors.      

 

[alvinlwh]

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[Pylon80]

10 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

TS-102 also called Cobalt Green.

Thanks, I see it says "Matt" for TS-102. Could it be that the app tried to match the finish as well as the color? I am after a gloss finish and do not wish to clear coat the part to get a gloss finish.

31 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

all I can suggest is you try it on a white card (for TS) and clear piece of polycarbonate (PS)

I was hoping to get insights from someone who tried these particular colors (and they are not particularly common). Making paint tests is a great idea but I am on a much lower budget than some other members here and buying yet another can of paint just to verify that it, oops, doesn't match, is precisely what I am trying to avoid

And the match on that Mid looks fantastic as always!

[alvinlwh]

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[Pylon80]

I do have a can of clear and I might get better luck applying a top coat of clear on matt TS than I did when applying it to rough/gritty PS last time.

Now let's find TS-102!

[Willy iine]

12 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

I do have a can of clear and I might get better luck applying a top coat of clear on matt TS than I did when applying it to rough/gritty PS last time.

Now let's find TS-102!

You can also paint PS on hardbodies if you use TS primer under it.  I've done this on my M06L Beetle's rear plate hood.  If you do a wet coat of PS it will give a semi-gloss (glossier than satin) appearance..    if that is not sufficient I would probably follow up with acrylic clear coat (like Mr. Super Clear) after a full day of curing.    Hope some of this helps.   

And thanks on the comment on my MID.  

[Pylon80]

7 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

You can also paint PS on hardbodies if you use TS primer under it.  I've done this on my M06L Beetle's rear plate hood.  If you do a wet coat of PS it will give a semi-gloss (glossier than satin) appearance..    if that is not sufficient I would probably follow up with acrylic clear coat (like Mr. Super Clear) after a full day of curing.    Hope some of this helps.   

And thanks on the comment on my MID.  

I tried that on the rear wing of my Subaru '99. PS-16 had an equivalent in TS but the metalized flakes are different in size, if that makes sense, so I decided to use PS on that wing. Lacking the skills to make a wet coat without runs, I sprayed light coats then tried to spray clear. Even after emptying half a can of TS clear it still looks nowhere near the same finish as lexan.

I really don't enjoy painting 😅 and see it as a necessary chore. I get immense satisfaction from tinkering and modifying chassis but otherwise I am part of those who would absolutely buy pre-painted box art bodies from Tamiya if we could! 🫣

A very short spraying season as well as a busy family life are also limitations I must contend with. I usually spray early in the morning before the kids are up. If the temperature is right. If the wind is calm. If...

That's enough complaining! Thanks for your inputs guys.

[Willy iine]

7 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

I tried that on the rear wing of my Subaru '99. PS-16 had an equivalent in TS but the metalized flakes are different in size, if that makes sense, so I decided to use PS on that wing. Lacking the skills to make a wet coat without runs, I sprayed light coats then tried to spray clear. Even after emptying half a can of TS clear it still looks nowhere near the same finish as lexan.

I really don't enjoy painting 😅 and see it as a necessary chore. I get immense satisfaction from tinkering and modifying chassis but otherwise I am part of those who would absolutely buy pre-painted box art bodies from Tamiya if we could! 🫣

A very short spraying season as well as a busy family life are also limitations I must contend with. I usually spray early in the morning before the kids are up. If the temperature is right. If the wind is calm. If...

That's enough complaining! Thanks for your inputs guys.

That does make sense about different chemistries using different sized metalized flakes.  

As for getting a real glossy finish, you really need to apply a very rich near-running wet coat at the end.   The trick is to keep spraying at the 11-12 inch distance (do no spray closer) but continue applying the mist over and over until you get a nice wet coat.  Then keep turning the part you are painting so that the paint (or clear) does not collect in one area.  

The only other way is to do multiple dull coat (sprayed light and farther away) and use a chemical polish (ex: Meguiar's ScratchX) with diminish abrasives to get the glossy finish.  You will want to use a foam pad (orange pad) to keep the product against the paint instead of MF towels where the product gets soaked into the towel.  

 

Also, if you do get a run, just let it fully cure and use micro-mesh sticks to polish the paint until it is flat.  Then polish using the chemical polish like Scratch-X.  A run does not mean it is ruined... just means you got another step to fix it later.  

[Pylon80]

6 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

That does make sense about different chemistries using different sized metalized flakes.  

As for getting a real glossy finish, you really need to apply a very rich near-running wet coat at the end.   The trick is to keep spraying at the 11-12 inch distance (do no spray closer) but continue applying the mist over and over until you get a nice wet coat.  Then keep turning the part you are painting so that the paint (or clear) does not collect in one area.  

The only other way is to do multiple dull coat (sprayed light and farther away) and use a chemical polish (ex: Meguiar's ScratchX) with diminish abrasives to get the glossy finish.  You will want to use a foam pad (orange pad) to keep the product against the paint instead of MF towels where the product gets soaked into the towel.  

 

Also, if you do get a run, just let it fully cure and use micro-mesh sticks to polish the paint until it is flat.  Then polish using the chemical polish like Scratch-X.  A run does not mean it is ruined... just means you got another step to fix it later.  

Thank you for the tips.

For the new body there are actually 2 colors on the front ABS part, cobalt green and black. I think I will do both methods and see what works best: 1) fine surface primer then TS-102 then TS clear for the cobalt green and 2) fine surface primer then PS black then TS clear for the black part. I will try to get a wet coat, fingers crossed.