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wintersdawn

Good cordless screwdriver for RC use

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Ive been using a Dewalt screwdriver for the past 3 years its amazing, I replaced my old Bosch iox

Its the one on screwfix below and its always coming on special offer (Next Black Friday will prob be the next) My cousin bought the same screw driver a few months ago from Screwfix or Toolstation in thier monthly special at £99

DeWalt DCF601D2-GB 12V 2 x 2.0Ah Li-Ion XR Brushless Cordless Screwdriver

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dewalt-dcf601d2-gb-12v-2-x-2-0ah-li-ion-xr-brushless-cordless-screwdriver/830hp

Its a bit over kill just for Tamiyas but its that good I use it for everything now days.  

I cant recommend this screwdriver enough. PS: The varibile setting means no more overtightning of screws when doing models.

 

Dew.jpg

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On the subject of power tools, I find that converting some power tools designed for 2 x AA/A batteries to 1S can greatly increase satisfaction. The vibrations are stronger, gones on for longer while staying more consistent through the usage cycle.

.

.

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I am talking about those cheap portable "ultrasonic" cleaners. After modding them to take 1S, they remove dirt far more efficiently.

What were you thinking? 🙄

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1 hour ago, cyclonecap said:

use the motor most of the way and then nip the screw up by hand

That is exactly how I use mine. I think straight style ones are more suitable for this method than pistol grip ones. 

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30 minutes ago, wintersdawn said:

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

So I cheaped out and got this on the way for £7.98 including delivery.  Several flat and phillips attachment's plus hex and 3.5 nm.

https://i.postimg.cc/C5KcJxzb/cats-crop.jpg

 

Not to be harsh, but that's a waste of money.  You can screw faster by hand.  Get something decent with variable speed or I wouldn't bother.  

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8 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Not to be harsh, but that's a waste of money.  You can screw faster by hand.  Get something decent with variable speed or I wouldn't bother.  

Says 'No Load Speed: 250 RPM', what is the range of RPM for a more expensive variable speed cordless screwdriver?  Cheers.

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16 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

Not to be harsh, but that's a waste of money.  You can screw faster by hand.  Get something decent with variable speed or I wouldn't bother.  

I also use a straight electric driver that can slip in my hand for torque control.  I checked, and it is also 250 rpm listed speed.  It isn't fast, but fast enough. I think much faster may be undesirable to deal with screws into plastic. I use it most of the time with machines screws.  haven't really used it for JIS much.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092SLZS9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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34 minutes ago, SlideWRX said:

I also use a straight electric driver that can slip in my hand for torque control.  I checked, and it is also 250 rpm listed speed.  It isn't fast, but fast enough. I think much faster may be undesirable to deal with screws into plastic. I use it most of the time with machines screws.  haven't really used it for JIS much.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092SLZS9K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I was interested in this one but it said torque was only 1.3NM.  Is it powerful enough to tighten screws into plastic without additional manual tightening? Thanks.

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If it works for you that's great, its all personal preference.  Since I only use a power driver when I need something done quickly (at races mostly) I need something with decent power.  Those cheapies always seemed like a waste of time/money to me.   They're just so slow.  Since I always do the final tightening by hand I want as much speed as possible with the driver before I get to the just snug point. 

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47 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

If it works for you that's great, its all personal preference.  Since I only use a power driver when I need something done quickly (at races mostly) I need something with decent power.  Those cheapies always seemed like a waste of time/money to me.   They're just so slow.  Since I always do the final tightening by hand I want as much speed as possible with the driver before I get to the just snug point. 

Just enjoyed looking at your showroom, great collection :wub:

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1 minute ago, wintersdawn said:

Just enjoyed looking at your showroom, great collection :wub:

Thank you, I really appreciate that!  Hope the driver works out for you, let us know what you think.  Worst case if you want more speed you can step up to something else and you're not out too much by trying it. 

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4 hours ago, wintersdawn said:

I was interested in this one but it said torque was only 1.3NM.  Is it powerful enough to tighten screws into plastic without additional manual tightening? Thanks.

Huh! the sticker on the side of the tool itself says 2Nm.  Rather it has several Chinese glyphs that my iPhone translated as 'the greatest burden' and listed 2Nm.   :D   Anyway, I feel it has just enough torque.  I just ran a 20mm m3 machine screw hex head all the way into a suspension arm that actually had 20mm+ depth, to try it out.  It ran it in all the way.  The tone/sound definitely changed the further in it went, like it was struggling, and the last 2-3mm it would stop/start, but it did go all the way in at a reasonable pace.  I don't know of any actual assembly where one would run fully 20mm of threads down, let alone 12mm+ of actual threads. I tried a 14mm machine screw on the reinforced plastics from the DT-03 reinforced set, and it went all the way in without issue.  Then on a part I was willing to strip I tried a 6mm machine screw.  I held tight as I screwed it in and sure enough it was able to strip that hole.

I use the 4mm socket and a bunch of 4mm bits from another set that I had - I don't know the quality of the other supplied bits, nor the magnetizer/de-magnetizer. I haven't used it to remove wheel nuts either.

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1 hour ago, SlideWRX said:

Huh! the sticker on the side of the tool itself says 2Nm.  Rather it has several Chinese glyphs that my iPhone translated as 'the greatest burden' and listed 2Nm.   :D   Anyway, I feel it has just enough torque.  I just ran a 20mm m3 machine screw hex head all the way into a suspension arm that actually had 20mm+ depth, to try it out.  It ran it in all the way.  The tone/sound definitely changed the further in it went, like it was struggling, and the last 2-3mm it would stop/start, but it did go all the way in at a reasonable pace.  I don't know of any actual assembly where one would run fully 20mm of threads down, let alone 12mm+ of actual threads. I tried a 14mm machine screw on the reinforced plastics from the DT-03 reinforced set, and it went all the way in without issue.  Then on a part I was willing to strip I tried a 6mm machine screw.  I held tight as I screwed it in and sure enough it was able to strip that hole.

I use the 4mm socket and a bunch of 4mm bits from another set that I had - I don't know the quality of the other supplied bits, nor the magnetizer/de-magnetizer. I haven't used it to remove wheel nuts either.

Thank you so much for testing the one you have, much appreciated.  Sounds like its pretty good for rc use .  I also like the slimline shape of it and decided to go ahead and order one.  

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8 hours ago, wintersdawn said:

Says 'No Load Speed: 250 RPM', what is the range of RPM for a more expensive variable speed cordless screwdriver?  Cheers.

Yeah, don't mind him.  The Panasonic one I have in my RC tool box is also fixed speed.  I usually only use it while screwing in long machine screws and at the end use my screw driver and hand tighten.

I will warn that if you use a high rate to screw into plastic, it builds quite a bit of heat (it will scorch your finger tips) and potentially even break your driver bits if hex.  My MIP broke one time from the heat.  Never had that happen on my other hex bits, but anyway, I would watch out for that.   

My 7-8 power drivers including impacts in my garage and workshop in the basement are all variable speed.. but again, you don't need variable speed for low power drivers for RC.   The one I showed, you can use it as a screw driver and turn the screw by hand at the end.. or starting it off if you like.

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2 hours ago, SlideWRX said:

greatest burden

I bet the original is 最大压力. 

最大 is greatest, highest

 压力 is pressure, stress, burden (as you found out)

A more accurate translation will be "highest pressure".

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@Willy iine is right. You have to watch for high RPM and torque, low RPM and low torque is good for most of our use. Too fast and the plastic inside the screw hole may melt. The screws can even get hot when screwing in by hand, so imagine what happens with a power driver. A Makita hammer drill should be expensive enough to not be considered rubbish, has plenty of RPM and torque, but do you want to use a tool that is nearly 2kg for a toy car? Not everyone is a racer, not everyone need a top of the range piece of equipment. You sound like you are just getting a feel of things, so try out on something cheap, upgrade and spend as as you want if that is what you want later on. You may decide you prefer the feel of putting screw in by hand afterall.

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3 hours ago, Willy iine said:

Yeah, don't mind him.  The Panasonic one I have in my RC tool box is also fixed speed.  I usually only use it while screwing in long machine screws and at the end use my screw driver and hand tighten.

I will warn that if you use a high rate to screw into plastic, it builds quite a bit of heat (it will scorch your finger tips) and potentially even break your driver bits if hex.  My MIP broke one time from the heat.  Never had that happen on my other hex bits, but anyway, I would watch out for that.   

My 7-8 power drivers including impacts in my garage and workshop in the basement are all variable speed.. but again, you don't need variable speed for low power drivers for RC.   The one I showed, you can use it as a screw driver and turn the screw by hand at the end.. or starting it off if you like.

Don't mind who?  Assuming its me - was just trying to help the guy out, those single speed drivers aren't worth it if you're trying to save time which is the only reason you'd want a power driver. 

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6 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

A Makita hammer drill should be expensive enough to not be considered rubbish, has plenty of RPM and torque

My baby Makita 10.8 has a speed control range that you can crawl the screw in when required. Very easy to overcook it if yer not used to power tool control though!

It’s proving a saviour when my hands are having bad days which is becoming more often as I get older. 

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1 hour ago, ad456 said:

My baby Makita 10.8 has a speed control range that you can crawl the screw in when required. Very easy to overcook it if yer not used to power tool control though!

I am sure it is great but these things often become a *******ing match about "mine is more expensive and has better numbers" and "you should listen to me because I am a racer" kind of thing.

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@alvinlwh fair play, I see what ya mean, yeah. It definitely gets a lot worse when it’s on a forum/social media etc as tone can be very lost in the wording, I feel it happens with the way I say/write sometimes which has always led me to post way less than I want.

I see it happening the other way too, folk get very sound advice but don’t wanna listen no matter how sound it is.

Anyway, I’ll step out of this as I’ve not got anything more to add that’s on topic and don’t wanna derail. 

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Because of this post i was reminded i do not have an electric battery driven drill or screwdriver, so ordered this Markita drill & screwdriver :), i recently was setting up 4 installments from IKEA and this was a very missed tool.

Believe its an older model (not brushless)  though, since its so much cheaper than other models i found (and you get a case with stuff included). This will be for Handyman stuff around the apartment though

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4 hours ago, bavee said:

As Tamiyaclub we should only use this electric screwdriver: Tamiya Electric Screwdriver Set (PT01)

Period.

:D

Besides it is a rebadged Makita itself: Makita USA - Product Details -DF010DSE (makitatools.com)

This is the newest Makita variant: Makita USA - Product Details -DF012DSE (makitatools.com)

:lol:  I mean Tamiya has the right idea.  It's very similar to my Panasonic one..  it's basically you start and finish the screw by hand (using the tool) but the long threading part done by the driver.

Similar to my powered ratchet I use on my 1:1 cars all the time. It's a mild 1/4" drive with ratcheting action with power.  It's a fantastic tool and makes my work go very fast.. and unlike dated airtools, no hose to get in the way.  👍

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On 10/24/2023 at 7:58 PM, alvinlwh said:

I bet the original is 最大压力. 

最大 is greatest, highest

 压力 is pressure, stress, burden (as you found out)

A more accurate translation will be "highest pressure".

I would attach a pic, but I'm getting a -200 error...  And tcphotos keeps asking me to sign in, and not accepting my password I had to reset the other day, because it kept asking me to sign in...

Anyway, The third part is wrong, but the others are right. The third one is a J with two cross hatches and a square B.  :)  Edit: picture ->

spacer.png

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