Good cordless screwdriver for RC use

[alvinlwh]

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[Juggular]

I like it!  I'm assuming it's 1.5N, whatever that means. (I could never get a tangible feeling out of Newtons. I guess 1.5N is about 1pound per feet).

My smallest cordless driver I had until now was Ryobi 4v.  This thing (I don't know the name of it. Is 093020x a name?) is much smaller. 

The length is about 8 inches (20cm).  

At 153g, it's 3 times lighter than 502g Ryobi.  Heavier than manual screw drivers. The big blue Vessel #2 weighs 91g.  

But it's 9g lighter than 2 full acrylic paint bottles. 

 

When you don't press the button, it's somewhat locked, so you can use it manually to apply more force.  

When it rotates, the center of the tip wobbles about 2mm side to side. For RC use, it should be alright. I just undid tiny screws on a 1"x1" circuit board without any problem. The rotation speed is like 2-3 turns per second.  Not too fast, not too slow.  Surprisingly it fits M2 perfectly.  

But it's a bit loose on M3, but not as much as Tamiya #1.  Tamiya #1 is made for M2. It could drive M3, but only into cheese.  This isn't that bad.  Wiha #1 can fit M2 and M3 perfectly. But the handle is so skinny, you can't really turn an M3. 

Shaving a hair off of the tip of this cheap cordless might be a good idea. (Yep, I just did it. A couple of passes with a diamond file made it fit snuggly on M2 and M3. The below photo was taken even before that.) 

The case looks identical all around.   I had to turn it around to see where the switch is.  So I dented it with a tip of a drill bit, and painted a dot. 

More importantly, I did the same on the opposite side, but I put a red dot on this backside. 

If it gives me a stinky eye, I can turn it around to avoid it. And voila! I'm at the switch.

It's not heavy-duty.  I don't think 1.5N is strong enough to put a M3 machine screw in a tight carbon-reinforced chassis. That's a good thing for RC.  It's light, it's not too big.  As @alvinlwh said, it's slippery enough that it you can let the handle rotate before you strip anything. (Thank you, Alvin!) You can back-thread (a bit awkwardly because the handle is fat), turn it on most of the way, and do the final turn manually.  Of course, unscrewing is easy.  

The only screw driver that could do M2 and M3 with confidence was $6 Vessel JIS 220 ball grip (non-ratchet. Ratchet driver is too fat, it won't go into holes of ORV chassis).  So, if you want to spend the absolute minimum for the maximum usage, Vessel JIS 220 ball grip (75mm) might be it.  https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-Ball-Grip-Screwdriver-220-1-75/dp/B000TGF4K6/ref=sr_1_2?crid=5N6EVDVHM6B1&keywords=vessel+220&qid=1699431584&sprefix=vessel+220%2Caps%2C135&sr=8-2#customerReviews  It's a bit small, but I've easily cracked a Black Foot chassis using the bigger blue Vessel #2.  Since then I prefer the smaller one. Tamiya kits are not furniture, you shouldn't need that much force anyway.  And I suspect that the ball's girth is larger than the driver in the Tamiya RC tool kit.  

But if you want a cheap cordless one, I'd give 8.5 points for this nameless one (Greener? Gren Pro? 093020x? What I got had no Alphabet on it, which I don't mind).  Under 16 USD.  I haven't built anything with it yet, so my opinion may change.  So far, it looks good.  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256803798982393.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.58.3dee1802EexDvX&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

 

[ChrisRx718]

So I don't use a powered 'driver personally; I'm too worried about stripping some of these expensive plastic toys we all play with.

Tamiya 74152 Ratcheting Screwdriver Pro is something which passed me by when it came out a couple of years back, but this deserves a place in everybody's toolbox. It has a really fine-tooth ratcheting action and a nice big, rubber-gripped handle to it for precision. It comes with a #2 JIS + bit as standard and you'll probably want the following bits if you have any higher-end kits with hex-head screws-

#69933 - Hex Screwdriver Bit 2mm
#69934 - Box Wrench Bit (7mm) Nut Driver

It's a bit on the expensive side, but you can fit any long-shank standard bit into it so it's handy for round-the-house DIY too. When you look at how expensive the offerings from Wera or Makita are, this is decent value. 

 

[alvinlwh]

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[alvinlwh]

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[Juggular]

8 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

@Juggular tip, use a shaft extender (or whatever they are called), use your own good bits instead of the provided ones. The extender is because this is so fat and the drive shaft so short, it will make driving screws in tight spots difficult if you fit the bits directly into it.

Does yours wobble a bit also? Wouldn't extending make it a bit more wobblier?   Is that how you use?  Could I see a picture?  (Again, I do appreciate guiding me in good direction. I like it. Thank you.)

 

[alvinlwh]

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[Willy iine]

@ChrisRx718  Ratchet drivers are fantastic.  I use them all the time.  My primary is Wera, but recently been using mostly ANEX brand stubby ratchet I bought from Amazon.   It's made in Japan, only $16, and is a superb tool.   I can start the screw using the thumb/finger turning thingie and then rest by the handle.  

Amazon sells JIS bits if desired.  I use mostly MIP hex bits on mine.

And what I like about this particular ratchet is that it stands up.  This is VERY useful when I have my RC car in my left hand and want to start a new screw.. I can place the new screw on the magnetized bit single handedly.  👍 iine~!

[Juggular]

There are cheaper ratchet drivers. In this economy, it's always good to know cheaper alternatives.  

I got this JIS ratchet driver 2 years ago, for $13.  I see that it's still $13.  Vessel is a Japanese company, made in Thailand or the Philippines (just like Tamiya). Quality stuff.  For the most part, I prefer to use the smaller non-ratcheting one that can do M2 and M3.  It's easier to crack parts with beefier drivers like this.  But certainly, this is a good ratcheting JIS driver. (I think "J" at the end means JIS)

https://www.amazon.com/Vessel-2200-Ball-Grip-Ratchet-Screwdriver-2x100/dp/B019C821PC/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2AYFK3X8T19GB&keywords=vessel%2Bball%2Bgrip&qid=1699470840&sprefix=vessel%2Bball%2Bgrip%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-3&th=1

The rear end comes off, but the stubby mode isn't too comfortable to hold. 

It should come off at the neck, like the Tamiya driver.  But $48 for a ratcheting screwdriver is way above my price range.   

Vessel has a $27 version with a socket so you can use different bits.

https://www.amazon.com/VESSEL-Ratchet-Interchangeable-Screwdriver-2200MBH120/dp/B0BZ2QLSK4/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_2/136-2074183-2122165?pd_rd_w=bqjcF&content-id=amzn1.sym.7746dde5-5539-43d2-b75f-28935d70f100&pf_rd_p=7746dde5-5539-43d2-b75f-28935d70f100&pf_rd_r=EVAMHPAGENSHFKERQ5YZ&pd_rd_wg=htH6q&pd_rd_r=b6dfd74e-6a67-4a03-85ad-87e759253431&pd_rd_i=B0BZ2QLSK4&psc=1