TBLE 02/04 - Soldering Motor Wires

[Pylon80 1308]

I was wondering if the Tamiya TBLE speedos were 'sealed' - whereby everything is stuck in epoxy resin like a 1060 or a 1080 - or if it was possible to pop the plastic casing off and de-solder/re-solder motor wires onto the board. Did anyone tried doing that?

Context:

The only time I ever held a TBLE in my hands it was to take pictures and sell it on eBay. Now I am considering one as an alternative to the HW stuff  I like how they can do both brushed and brushless. I no longer care as much about being able to set dragging brake (which the TBLE's can't do in brushed mode... brushless only). And they are huge but I have room to accommodate them now that I switched my fleet to shorty packs. Also they won't do low battery cutoff for 2S lipo but I know my battery run times well enough that I have not had to rely on the cutoff in many years. Long story short, I now think they might not be that bad after all  So being able to remove the third wire if I am running a brushed motor, as well as being able to replace all wires with black, stealth ones would be really nice. I know, I know this is all esthetics... but there something nice about beholding a chassis that does not look like a plate of spaghetti.

Thanks!

[burakol 446]

Yes, you can pop the casing off... there are just tabs on the sides... be careful not to lose the little plastic thing that is used for the settings button... 

There's a LIPO cut-off mod you can DIY... all my TBLE02s have been modded for LIPO cutoff... not difficult to do, but requires some precision when soldering the resistors... 

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIeTqY-LJOY

 

[skom25 603]

Be aware that TBLE setup is quite complicated and you really need to check manual carefully. 

I also had feeling, that TBLE is strange in terms of throttle control. It feels like it is not linear and because of that, cars are hard to control.

[Pylon80 1308]

12 minutes ago, skom25 said:

I also had feeling, that TBLE is strange in terms of throttle control. It feels like it is not linear and because of that, cars are hard to control.

Sounds like the opposite of what I am looking for!

[alvinlwh 5203]

I recently popped open a 104, and while it is not rated as waterproof, it does have some kind of coating. It is not stuck in anything but will not be a clean solder job as you will need to burn through that stuff first. Otherwise, not impossible to work on.

[Pylon80 1308]

14 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

I recently popped open a 104, and while it is not rated as waterproof, it does have some kind of coating. It is not stuck in anything but will not be a clean solder job as you will need to burn through that stuff first. Otherwise, not impossible to work on.

Ah, that's helpful. Again that's what I was hoping the TBLE would NOT be like. I'll also check Burakol's video to get an even better idea but it doesn't sound like I'm going to go with these speedos.

There's not a lot of choice for brushed ESC. The basic 1060 works ok. The 1080 used to be my go to but I realized recently that it's doing something harsh whenever I transition between braking and back to forward. I went back to a 1060 and the car is driving so much better 🙄

[alvinlwh 5203]

2 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

Ah, that's helpful. Again that's what I was hoping the TBLE would NOT be like. I'll also check Burakol's video to get an even better idea but it doesn't sound like I'm going to go with these speedos.

There's not a lot of choice for brushed ESC. The basic 1060 works ok. The 1080 used to be my go to but I realized recently that it's doing something harsh whenever I transition between braking and back to forward. I went back to a 1060 and the car is driving so much better 🙄

Check this video out.

Get a Radiolink Cool 9030 and see if you like that one. Recently I had ordered 2 to try out.

[Pylon80 1308]

7 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Check this video out.

Get a Radiolink Cool 9030 and see if you like that one. Recently I had ordered 2 to try out.

He pronounced "TamAya" 😤

[alvinlwh 5203]

Just now, Pylon80 said:

He pronounced "TamAya" 😤

I know! Disgusting! 🤣

[Pylon80 1308]

So this discussion got me motivated to go out last night to my "proving grounds" with the program card and play with the settings of the 1080.

And I feel a bit silly 😅 somehow I managed to change item 15 from normal driving to crawling; I don't know when I did that, because that ESC used to be on my F1 in normal driving mode. The thing is, what HW call "freewheeling" means precisely the opposite. Freewheeling enabled = the car does not, repeat, does not freewheel but rather follows the throttle position; although if you quickly return throttle to neutral it will freewheel; then tap the throttle and it'll brake harshly to try and match the throttle position. Freewheeling disabled on the other end means the car will... freewheel... like a normal car would (unless you set drag brake which is another subject).

Long story short this is once again my favorite ESC and I also noticed that they make have a G2 version of it that can do high voltage 😎 something @alvinlwhwill appreciate!

[alvinlwh 5203]

1 hour ago, Pylon80 said:

noticed that they make have a G2 version of it that can do high voltage 😎 something @alvinlwhwill appreciate!

While I like the 6A and up to 8.4V BEC output, it is rather expensive, on par with some brushless ESC. Will not do for a budget build off. I am trying out the 9030 and if it goes well, that will be my new favourite budget ESC.

[Pylon80 1308]

8 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

While I like the 6A and up to 8.4V BEC output, it is rather expensive, on par with some brushless ESC. Will not do for a budget build off. I am trying out the 9030 and if it goes well, that will be my new favourite budget ESC.

Well, they go for 37$ right now where I live; that's without the programming card, but I already have one of those. Indeed it is basically the price of a 10BL60 (6v BEC only by the way), only I have a ridiculous supply of brushed motors that came from various kits and will last for years, while brushless motors (I would only buy expensive Tamiya ones ) are at least 60$. For some reason I like encouraging "real" RC companies. It's all debatable and I might be fooling myself of course!