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Rb4276

Optima mid build

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7 hours ago, Rb4276 said:

Someone  on facebook told me to use plumber’s tape around the threads. I am goin to try later. 

It’s all worth a try mate it’s not going to hurt:D is the threads where it’s leaking from? 

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18 minutes ago, moffman said:

It’s all worth a try mate it’s not going to hurt:D is the threads where it’s leaking from? 

Yes and when compressed it comes out a decent amount

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Yikes..

However, anyone reading this thread that is questioning Kyosho's damper quality in general, rest assured none of my dampers leak including the 16 on my MID's.  I have 25 Kyosho (1:10) cars at the moment to give reference.  They do require maintenance as with most dampers do when driven pretty hard.   I am sure some can be bad out of the factory as well.

 

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1 hour ago, Rb4276 said:

Yes and when compressed it comes out a decent amount

Please don’t think I’m being sarcastic but genuinely when you placed the opaque gasket that goes in between the shock body and the cap did you place it with the groves in between the threads? They are so minute it’s very easy to misplace them?

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39 minutes ago, Willy iine said:

Yikes..

However, anyone reading this thread that is questioning Kyosho's damper quality in general, rest assured none of my dampers leak including the 16 on my MID's.  I have 25 Kyosho (1:10) cars at the moment to give reference.  They do require maintenance as with most dampers do when driven pretty hard.   I am sure some can be bad out of the factory as well.

 

I’ve only had one buggy (mid) that the shocks leaked and it was an absolute pain to find out why but generally they are all fantastic top quality kits!

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2 hours ago, moffman said:

Please don’t think I’m being sarcastic but genuinely when you placed the opaque gasket that goes in between the shock body and the cap did you place it with the groves in between the threads? They are so minute it’s very easy to misplace them?

Not at all, the gaskets are lined up. I tore it down first just redoing the shafts & o rings and the last 2 times everything was redone. Late this week i will go over it all again. 

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1 hour ago, moffman said:

I’ve only had one buggy (mid) that the shocks leaked and it was an absolute pain to find out why but generally they are all fantastic top quality kits!

I totally agree they are, my jj was a perfect easy build minus  one issue. This mid was too aside from this shock problem. 

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Kit looks fantastic, but had I known this would've been coming up I wouldn't have hopped up my re-released Optima Mid.

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I have five Kyoshos, four re re and one OG.

None of the shocks leaked on any of them, ever, other than the one shock that I physically broke. I repaired that shock and it hasn't leaked a drop since. 

This is why I am loathe to change shock oil or rebuild my shocks, since I don't want to fix what isn't broken.

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It is amazing I have built 11 tamiyas since 2015 and hop up shocks for most of them such as trf ones and not one has ever leaked. 

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22 hours ago, Rb4276 said:

It is amazing I have built 11 tamiyas since 2015 and hop up shocks for most of them such as trf ones and not one has ever leaked. 

Same, other than the rere Bruiser which copied their origonal design Tamiya tends to keep to the KISS methodology. From their basic shocks to their big bored they use a combination of cirlce bushings and spacers. No odly shaped hardware to misalign that will cause leaks. 

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PS, Loving the build OP.  If I hadnt purchased a TRF511 last year Id be in for an optima mid in order to scratch the belt drive itch.  I bet a rere optima mid would do just fine against modern hardware. 

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7 hours ago, GTodd said:

PS, Loving the build OP.  If I hadnt purchased a TRF511 last year Id be in for an optima mid in order to scratch the belt drive itch.  I bet a rere optima mid would do just fine against modern hardware. 

It is a nice build, I like the jj more so. I’d rather build a trf lol. I wish I bought some a local shop had near me before covid but I was afraid you’d never get parts if I broke it. 

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So I got the new parts for the shocks and rebuilt it with plumbers tape and all good. I am convinced though the cap threads are messed up. I had a hard time screwing it on and lining it up. The other 3 would seal up right away with problems. 

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13 minutes ago, Rb4276 said:

So I got the new parts for the shocks and rebuilt it with plumbers tape and all good. I am convinced though the cap threads are messed up. I had a hard time screwing it on and lining it up. The other 3 would seal up right away with problems. 

Excellent glad it’s all good and it certainly sounds like it’s the shock body threads! 

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Hey mid pros...

Should I get an undertray for a new build I intend to run?

I m Referring tp the wide one that will align nicely to the top cover.

Does it keep the dirt away?

Any links to a decently priced one?

10x!

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1 hour ago, gkatz said:

Hey mid pros...

Should I get an undertray for a new build I intend to run?

I m Referring tp the wide one that will align nicely to the top cover.

Does it keep the dirt away?

Any links to a decently priced one?

10x!

I've got one and I would recommend it. I think it does a really good job of keeping the dirt out, and is a great chassis scratch protector too. Although I haven't run my Mid without it so I haven't experienced what it's like without, I'm sure it'd get dirt everywhere in there with loose dirt running. With the undertray my Mid is quite a practical runner, probably better than most others in this regard, although it's not a car I run in wet muddy conditions. I don't regard it as a "basher". 

My undertray is Kamtec. As is my running shell but the undertray marries up with my kit shell just as well. Undertray also enables use of Velcro to keep the shell nicely secure and quiet. In fact on my project car that uses an undertray (Tomahawk shell) I intend to fit the body with Velcro to undertray only, no posts. 

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Penguin also do a body and undertray, available on eBay and via Modelsport.

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1 hour ago, Twinfan said:

Penguin also do a body and undertray, available on eBay and via Modelsport.

I think my Penguin Tomahawk body is a crisper molding than the Kamtec shells I have, actually. And roughly comparable in price terms. 

Not that this counts for much in an undertray. 

For Penguin, you can also contact him directly through Facebook for an order. He was very responsive when I did.

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3 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I think my Penguin Tomahawk body is a crisper molding than the Kamtec shells I have, actually. And roughly comparable in price terms. 

Not that this counts for much in an undertray. 

For Penguin, you can also contact him directly through Facebook for an order. He was very responsive when I did.

thanks - so you also apply velcro (purchsed seperately) so that the contact points of the undertray and top cover do not move and scratch each other all the time?

can someone post a pic so that I can see where its applied?

thanks!

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I have just restarted work on my mid too. The electrics ads awkward, I tried the esc up on top under clear bodyshell to see if it would work up there, but basically not. The annoying thing about the location on the lower chassis is the lip which means you can’t make it sit flat. There are some 3d printed things you can get but big pain in the harris so I won’t bother, just use tape. Ps my shocks haven’t leaked since I made them about a year ago! Maybe I’m lucky.

YXJJMA6.jpg

 

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5 hours ago, gkatz said:

thanks - so you also apply velcro (purchsed seperately) so that the contact points of the undertray and top cover do not move and scratch each other all the time?

can someone post a pic so that I can see where its applied?

thanks!

I just did this:

20240121_191406

Seems OK. I guess you could do more but I don't feel the need. 

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I'm coming from Tamiya but read a lot about Kyosho, and though it's a steep price tag I might consider saving for an Optima Mid in the future. Dirt Master looked also nice, less expensive but watching reviews I got the impression it's a sort of austerity model just to keep the price down (and hard to get now). Not so for the Legendary series. However, according to the manual max rx height is 17 mm. I have a Sanwa MX-6 and am now bound to RX-391 receivers from what I've read, which are 18,1 mm high. Did Kyosho just want to be on the safe side and doesn't cause those few mm's issues or should I expect some difficulties putting the electronics in?

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1 hour ago, Rijkvv said:

I'm coming from Tamiya but read a lot about Kyosho, and though it's a steep price tag I might consider saving for an Optima Mid in the future. Dirt Master looked also nice, less expensive but watching reviews I got the impression it's a sort of austerity model just to keep the price down (and hard to get now). Not so for the Legendary series. However, according to the manual max rx height is 17 mm. I have a Sanwa MX-6 and am now bound to RX-391 receivers from what I've read, which are 18,1 mm high. Did Kyosho just want to be on the safe side and doesn't cause those few mm's issues or should I expect some difficulties putting the electronics in?

On the Mid? My Mid a couple of posts up has the receiver mounted on the top deck, and my new receiver is taller than that. I guess it might get in the way of a driver figure if you had one but otherwise there seems a fair bit of room. 

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