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BennieBlind

Whats wrong with my steering setup / servo

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So I bought a second hand Willy and as soon if I hit something or try to jump the wheels stays in a turned position.

I found out the dude who sold me this only put part E5 onto the output shaft of my Hitec HS 311. I'm not having part B6 or B11, B12.

As the output shaft stands out of the plastic inside E5, I've put in a ring of metal wire and did some electrical tape around the output shaft to make it thicker So the part stays put when driving. Also the MC3 part  I've made out of an ring I found in my normal collection of screws and washers.

Should I stop using it this way as not to wear out the servo output shaft as it looks a little bit worn out already. And I have a servo saver ont the way and a new servo just in case.

This is such a shame people make it like this.

servo.jpg

servo1.jpg

servo 2.jpg

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Sorry, I'm not following, but if your servo is returning to center but your servo horn is not, then your servo saver is too tight not allowing B6 to return to its neutral position.  However, since you have a plastic spline servo there's only so much you can do.  I recommend you get one of these servos and a high torque servo saver by Tamiya.  Then you can use machine screws with a little thread lock..tighten screw to snug (but not super tight) and allow the servo saver to return to center smoothly after hitting a bump.

Servo:  JX Servo PDI-5508MG   (same as Tamiya/Futaba 25teeth metal spline)

Servo saver:  Tamiya  #51000

 

Hope this helps.  GL with your car!  👍

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I think what you're saying is that without parts B6 and B11 / B12, the servo horn is just sort of wedged over the splines?  That's unlikely to stay put for long once there are forces acting on the wheels.  I'd stop using it, and wait for you new servo saver to arrive.

It's a shame you were sold a sub-standard used car, but it happens all the time in the 2nd hand market - people incorrectly build or bodge temporary fixes in place.  Still, if you've got new parts coming you should be able to put it right and enjoy it the way it was intended :) 

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Hitec use a 24T spline. Tamiya do not support this. Which may be why the previous owner bodged it.

I hope the replacement servo you ordered is not a Hitec. Most brands use a 25T spline, some use a 23T, both of which are supported by Tamiya.

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I've ordered a servo saver from YEAH racing  as a lot of upgraded stuff is already from them:

 https://www.yeahracing.com/aluminum-plate-servo-saver-black-ya-0557bk-00076135

And an Absima servo as I already have a CR4S transmitter and receiver:

https://www.absima.shop/pp/absima-S60MH-6kg-servo-25t-metalgear.htm?shop=absima_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=2030002&t=19114&c=19129&p=19129

It is 25 T which I considered must fit onto the YEAH servosaver. I do hope it comes with a 23 T plate as well a 25 T as it seems to fit Futaba, KO and Sanwa Servo

 

@Mad Ax Yeah; as described I only have part E5 mounted directly onto the output shaft. Only after reviewing the manual online of the original kit it struck me there needed to be more parts and after modding the stuff myself I feel stupid for buying this as some other flaws come to light.

I've put some electrical tape around it to make it thicker; so that gives some more grip & I can drive 5 min before the wheels are completely off to one side.

Well, as a newbie it's learning money I guess, but afterwards I've better had bought the kit new. Luckily there was done a great job on the paint of the body so it's not completely a misfortune. And i'm learning a lot of how-things-should-be-done! haha.

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10 hours ago, sosidge said:

Hitec use a 24T spline. Tamiya do not support this. Which may be why the previous owner bodged it.

I hope the replacement servo you ordered is not a Hitec. Most brands use a 25T spline, some use a 23T, both of which are supported by Tamiya.

I would add that Hitec used to only have 24t spline. They still do on their entry level standard servos which are actually aircraft servos. The new Hitec D-series use 25t spline now which makes them compatible with common servo savers or solid arms.

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4 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

just using the horns that come with the servo

I don't have a Willy but I am not sure this would work. It seems to be using a traditional Grasshopper or F1 style servo saver that connects to both steering tie rods directly. Now, there are probably some aftermarket solid horns that would fit 👌

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