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wtcc5's TA-08R - Shingo Tachi Edition

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Happy new year everyone!

I haven't posted anything in this section lately. And I would have focused on other projects, but somehow the TA-08R release caught me... so here we are :rolleyes:

The release of the "pro" version didn't make me feel like I want it. The "R" with the generous hop-up parts then changed this.

Lets start with the manual build for those still undecided ;)

 

It all starts with the front suspension. The 08 has a unique suspension design with different arms for front and rear. This time Tamiya hit the nail with a perfect shimming:IMG-1407.jpg

Then it is already chassis time. The inner split hubs get installed:
IMG-1408.jpg

Followed by the arms and the front mount. It was really satisfying to see, that this step didn't needed to be repeated until the arms sit without slop or getting stuck:
IMG-1409.jpg

Same procedure in the rear:
IMG-1410.jpg

What needs critic from my side here is that the FR mount is integrated in the chassis. So you cannot use wider mounts (just the inserts) and if you crash badly and damage this mount, you can rebuild the full car. Yes, rarely happens, but I just had similar experience. Just not cool if something like that ruins your whole day:
IMG-1411.jpg

Installing the toe links:
IMG-1412.jpg

...and the first carbon parts:
IMG-1413.jpg

After the lower suspension Tamiya suggests to work on the motor mount and spur gear. Here the manual says to use shims again. For this build one 0.1mm shim was too much and bind the ball bearing. Without it, it was perfect:
IMG-1414.jpg

Installed on the chassis and with belts:
IMG-1415.jpg

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Was only looking at one of these this evening.

Will enjoy watching your build🙂

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Recently learned that at the local club, ta-07 worked great.. so i am really looking forward to this build.

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Thanks! Yeah, I already have one or two small things on my mind, that in conclusion would change the professional look a lot :P Quincy has one too and want to run it stock first. So I sit that out and then ;)

 

Last time I assembled the central drivetrain. The manual now continues with the rear differential. This car is the first time where I have to say, that the drivetrain is near perfect. The R comes with geardiff, spool, double cardan, proper blade driven outdrives, a lot of parts are aluminium or Tamiyas Hop-Up-version cardan parts. So out of the box you have no worries and could even go for high power motors! One of the few things to hop-up on this car is the geardiff housing. It can be replaced by an gorgeous black aluminum part (42325). I ordered it too late so here the diff with the standard housing:

IMG-1417.jpg

 

The spool:

IMG-1419.jpg

 

Both placed in the tub (?) chassis:

IMG-1420.jpg

 

We now return to the rear suspension. The upper arms with integrated camber setting (even the setscrew is blue :wub:):

IMG-1421.jpg

 

The inner mounts are a bit strange. The two cool aluminum mounts get attached with one screw on a cover. What is this cover for?

IMG-1422.jpg

 

The arms then go on the ballstuds:

IMG-1423.jpg

 

... and with another four screws onto the chassis:

IMG-1426.jpg

 

The same steps for the front:

IMG-1427.jpg

 

And here you could see that I put on the aluminum mounts the wrong way :lol: I will not recognize it until the top deck comes... so be gentle :D

 

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Stylish and different. Interested to see where you take it. 

I'm wondering why they mount the top arm with ball studs instead of a hinge pin? Seems an odd choice to me for something that rotates around an axis and mounts along a suitable length. I'm sure it's not a problem but with wear in the arm concentrated to just the ball areas and more concentrated forces where the studs are screwed into, I can't think of the reason to design it like this? 

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Each time I see that kind of builds, I think that mine RCs are quite poor :D

 

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20 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

Stylish and different. Interested to see where you take it. 

I'm wondering why they mount the top arm with ball studs instead of a hinge pin? Seems an odd choice to me for something that rotates around an axis and mounts along a suitable length. I'm sure it's not a problem but with wear in the arm concentrated to just the ball areas and more concentrated forces where the studs are screwed into, I can't think of the reason to design it like this? 

This seems to be the preferred current design. Awesomatix started it, Mugen have followed suite on the MTC2, and now Tamiya as well. I’m sure others like Xray will be onto it too if not already

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2 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:

This seems to be the preferred current design. Awesomatix started it, Mugen have followed suite on the MTC2, and now Tamiya as well. I’m sure others like Xray will be onto it too if not already

Interesting. I don't know anything about high end road chassis. I wonder what the reason is then? Adjustability? 

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12 minutes ago, BuggyDad said:

Interesting. I don't know anything about high end road chassis. I wonder what the reason is then? Adjustability? 

Not sure, but the Awesomatix came out and basically dominated the comp, so everyone has followed 

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I have feeling, that it is somehow related to slope free design with minimal number of parts. There is also no problem with shims etc. Probably it is lighter too.

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On 1/6/2024 at 3:30 AM, BuggyDad said:

Stylish and different. Interested to see where you take it. 

I'm wondering why they mount the top arm with ball studs instead of a hinge pin? Seems an odd choice to me for something that rotates around an axis and mounts along a suitable length. I'm sure it's not a problem but with wear in the arm concentrated to just the ball areas and more concentrated forces where the studs are screwed into, I can't think of the reason to design it like this? 

In terms of adjustability, you could shim the two ball studs differently which would gives you 'caster gain' as the suspension compresses? Just a thought.

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I think it is price and setup related. Two ballstuds and two ballcups, are simple to do and standard parts. Setup wise very easy for rollcenter change and like @Pylon80 said with the possibility to have active caster. I would have preferred the turnbuckle triangle like Awe does it, but that would have been a bit much to ask from the customer target group to setup. I think Tamiya chose this style of upper arm to get a simple and strong suspension. There is nearly no flex in it if you apply force. Very good for higher grip levels.

 

My next build step was the steering assembly:

IMG-1428.jpg

IMG-1429.jpg

 

Did I already praise the drivetrain? :D Look at those fine cardans:

IMG-1430.jpg

 

These were paired with TTRF420 hubs and the carbon steering arms:

IMG-1431.jpg

 

Aluminum hexes also :wub: 

IMG-1432.jpg

 

Same for the rear suspension:

IMG-1433.jpg

 

The shocks are pretty good to build and don't need further hop-ups. Although the lower spring retainer in blue is pretty sexy (I will add it later). The first runs will be indoor on high grip carpet, so the soft Tamiya springs were ignored and Xrays 2.5-2.8 went in in front and 2.5 in the back:

IMG-1434.jpg

 

This one will be very pretty:

IMG-1435.jpg

IMG-1436.jpg

 

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Oh my, the shocks are so short!

Watching all this with interest, everyone likes a good wtcc5 build ;)

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The servo installation was the next step. Again Tamiya didn't cheap out and added an aluminum servo arm:

IMG-1437.jpg

 

Combined with the aluminum servomount and servo step screws :wub:

IMG-1438.jpg

 

It was at that moment, that I realized I installed the aluminum upper arm mounts upside down, because the top deck wouldn't fit :lol: This part is very nice, but doesn't stiffen the chassis regarding torsional flex. I think it should've, because the chassis is a "wet towel" (that is what german automotive engineers would say):

IMG-1439.jpg

 

The motor will take the space for now:

IMG-1440.jpg

 

Bumper:

IMG-1441.jpg

 

Rear body post:

IMG-1442.jpg

Again: Nice, but the carbon plates underneath are to weak to make it as stiff as it looks.

 

Battery mounts:

IMG-1443.jpg

Too much plastic, these need carbon :lol:

 

That completes the first chapter for now. Having all these hop-ups and this drivetrain out of the box is the wet dream of every Tamiya fanboy (me) and makes this build very satisfying. Also not having to dump another 300€ to make it full option is nice.

Nevertheless, more hop-ups will follow and then I will drive it on carpet and find out if it performs how it looks.

 

 

 

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No Ackerman? I guess that's something you will adjust before you run it?

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@Pylon80: For the start I always go with the setup the manufacturer suggests. But if you wouldn't have mentioned it... I didn't recognized it until now :o

 

I added the anti-roll-bar-set next and was a bit unhappy with the expense needed to attach them: Removing the dampers from the bridge, removing the arms from the diff cover and removing the diff cover... Great for setup work :rolleyes:

IMG-1447.jpg

 

Then I made a great deal regarding aluminum and titanium screw sets. One of our german hobby shops made a post christmas sale and offered Hiro-Seiko aluminum-titanium and pure titanium screw sets for the TRF420 for half price. I bought both and added a bit more to make the full exchange happen (still forgot some in the first step). I also added carbon battery mounts:

IMG-1468.jpg

Changes the look a bit.

 

With a practice day coming up, I added the electronics. Had to pirate a bit from several cars. I had the Hobbywing G3 17.5t motor in my Tyrell six-wheeler and the small esc came from the FF03evo as well as the battery:

IMG-1474.jpg

 

Setup worked very well. Unfortunately Tamiya forgot to add small holes in the chassis for the L/R-balance posts:

IMG-1472.jpg

 

 

IMG-1478.jpg

Then the practice day came. Belt cars are sooo quiet. I like that. Well that was the only positive thing at first. This car doesn't like high-grip surfaces out of the box. Even though I used a lightweight, very low GT-body (from Exotek), the car instantly rolled...

The day was saved by a nice guest driver who had 6mm hexes to widen the TA-08. Like this the car became much better to control and stopped rolling.

I still had to try something. With all the TRF420 parts it is just logical to think of using the TRF420 suspension parts also. The arms are much longer , so I thought this could be an option. But it wasn't, in the end the car has the same width as before. The good thing: It will fit "plug and play" with just a collision between the upper outer arm part and the c-hub. By chamfering the edge of the arm this collisions is gone:

IMG-1479.jpg

 

I ran the car for some more packs, added more toe-in in the rear, worked with droop and the car became easy to drive. The chassis is a "wet towel" and you clearly see that on track. The car misses the quick reaction and has a tendency to think it is still cornering with an open steering. It is still not wide enough with 6mm hexes to lightly touch a curb. Investing more is the only way:

IMG-1500.jpg

 

E-mounts for the front, hex shims and 5mm hexes. While at it the steel ballstuds have to leave and I don't trust the servo saver.

IMG-1501.jpg

IMG-1503.jpg

IMG-1524.jpg

Look at the front of the top deck: Tamiya has the option to stiffen the top deck by blocking the slit with screws, nuts and shims.

Actual status of this car. I received the front bumper carbon brace and the last aluminum and titanium screws:

IMG-1523.jpg

 

Now, I wait until @Quincy finishes his TA-08R before running this one again. In the coming weeks the TT-02 KRv5 is in the focus for the next race.

 

 

 

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The inner mounts are a bit strange. The two cool aluminum mounts get attached with one screw on a cover. What is this cover for?

IMG-1422.jpgYou would think you would put one of those covers on an off road car/buggy.  Makes you wonder if they thought of using three chassis for one

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Great build 👍🏻

I may have missed it but is there a unique TA08”R" feature?

I've found that the R versions I have have a unique item , can't remember them all but off hand but there's the TA06 R right hand side steering joint ,TB03R steering IFS aluminium bridge and the M08R chassis weight.

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11 minutes ago, svenb said:

Great build 👍🏻

I may have missed it but is there a unique TA08”R" feature?

I've found that the R versions I have have a unique item , can't remember them all but off hand but there's the TA06 R right hand side steering joint ,TB03R steering IFS aluminium bridge and the M08R chassis weight.

The colour of certain parts on this car (such as top deck mounts) come in black - but the 5 digit hopups for the standard TA08 only come in blue. 

I don't think there's anything other than aesthetics that are unique to the R

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Regarding unique parts: The TA08R has a new motor mount design (22081) to accommodate the TRF420 top deck. You could also count in the rear body post mounts (22085) as unique parts. Well unique design, but also „just“ five digit parts, so not especially for this kit, but available as hop-up for TA-08pro owners.

The manual is now available online for detailed view of all parts:

https://d7z22c0gz59ng.cloudfront.net/cms/japan/download/rcmanual/47498.pdf

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You maybe recognized, that I added to the name of this thread. And that I have a new signature, too.

This all started one evening with me enjoying motorsport videos from the 90s. While browsing the Japanese Super GT series, I stumbled over this sad story:

 

Until today losing a live in motorsport is not uncommon and this could be any tragic "a father lost his son" - story, if it wasn't for the achievement of Shingo Tachi and his experienced partner Keiichi Suzuki in the GT300 class 1998. To make it short: He was seen as the new star in touring car / Super GT racing. In 1998 he dominated the slower class, won five of the seven races (one was cancelled). Even with a bop weight of up to 80 kilogram  this team was unstoppable. A dominance that never happened before or after. He was called for the GT500 class in 1999, but lost his life after a brake failure after the long straight while testing the GT500 Supra for his new team "Team LeMans". This loss had a huge impact in the Japanese Racing community and he is remembered until now. TOM'S cars still have a sticker:

IMG-1461.webp

Even Tamiyas au TOM'S GR Supra (58703) kit has it (roof line):

Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-19-um-18-16-53.pn

 

As I found this story very sad and really like the MR2 by Tsuchiya Engineering, I decided to put in a lot of effort to make a body of Tachis successful 1998 MR2. It started with the MR2 body. Easy to find info about it in the net, but not in the stores. Luckily one shop in the Netherlands still had one. Next was the wing. Tamiya don't have fitting design in their catalogue and also the drift scene doesn't offer anything close. Right now, I plan to hack a DTM wing and 3d-print the mounts to get close to the original. What I still haven't found are fitting mirrors...

The stickers were another challenge. Looking at a picture of the car, you would say "easy":

EFUd-D41-VUAANx-Eo-jpg-large.jpg

Just simple sponsor decals, google it! It wasn't ... I had to do a lot of research and graphic work. Some was fairly interesting, like "Wise Sports". Drawing the cat logo from pixelated pictures and then rediscovering the font "Bodoni". Others were oddly not to find in decent quality like the "Toyota motor sports" logo from that time. These and many more cost a lot of time to draw, as I need perfect vector graphics for the (already done) MCI order. And then a problem I caused myself: This car existed in violet and silver that year. Until now I couldn't decide which one to do and made both sticker sets:

For the violet car:

Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-19-um-17-37-40.pn

 

For the silver car:

asimg-Photo04-90s-vol2-photo-08-97609393

Bildschirmfoto-2024-01-19-um-17-37-56.pn

 

I ordered both. These are available now at MCI for you too if you search for "Designers Edition".

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Great project!

In my opinion the purple looks much better, plus Tamiya already make the colour so very similar in PS-35. 

The exact wheels used to be made by Yokomo too, pretty sure they're Enkei NT03. Long discontinued though, perhaps another brand makes similar (Yokomo wheels aren't ideal for racing anyway, they're a display/drift rim).

Yokomo TW-3013 if you want to take a look.

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Wow this is awesome, very nice idea . Can u tell more about the body ? What make is it ? I remember reading about this sad story, think it was the Esso ultron supra with a Tiger livery ?  ... i especially like your weight addon stickers, very nice. The mr2 with white wheels looks ace. You can not go wrong, be it purple or silver. My vote is for silver, as this looks stylishly monochramatic which resembles the memorial photographs of passed drivers in blacknwhite. If you choose purple, i think important about the purple is that its absolutely flat and not metallic, but you know that. Ps35 is very good but might look too blueish often, compared to the reference pic. Ps12 silver might be spot on perfect. And i think the white wheels fit the silver better than the purple. Doesnt have that Club racer look " oh what wheels are left in the Box?" But thats individual. Another thing: regarding your sticker sheets, the silver version has even more addon weight, reffering to the dominance even more  ... anyway looking forward and imo a great Twist on this thread, making it more meaningful and distinctive.

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