Looking for a new basher

[Rijkvv 66]

Hello all. I’m mainly a basher, once considered joining the Dutch Tamiya Cup but didn’t in the end and gave up the idea of competitive RC. One of my favourite cars is the M-08, but being an M-chassis it has a very low ground clearance (or did I do something wrong with the suspension?) So I’m looking for something bigger to bash with. There’s not much race track-like nearby. There are paved roads however, so it doesn’t have to be a buggy or anything truly off-road. I also want to stick to touring cars because of the scale aspect and the availability of bodies.

There are a few requirements for me: it has to be reliable and easy to perform maintenance, and easy to get parts. I also want to run it with a brushless system (thinking about the Carson Dragster 16t, not decided yet).

With that in mind, I came to a few ideas:

-a version of the TT-02. Easy to perform maintenance and plenty of parts available no doubt, but very basic and I’m afraid a downgrade from an M-08. I could go for one of the better versions (S, SR or SRX), but wouldn’t a more exclusive version also make it harder to find replacement parts? And are these versions, still a TT-02, suitable for a brushless system? Obliously you can put a brushless in whatever you want, but in a real car you also don’t put in a much faster engine before anything else if you don’t want to crash in a tree.

-XV-02 (RS). These might be my best option. Not real track racers, but that’s not what I’m after anyways. Slightly more complicated than a TT-02 I assume, and more expensive, but worth it? In case of the RS: not too high that a non-rally shell looks awkward?

Maybe something entirely different? Do you guys have any suggestions/tips?

[ThunderDragonCy 8379]

If you like road running, I have been quite surprised how well my 10th scale touring cars (ff01 and tb03) with 6-7mm clearance. That said, my rally car runs really nice and will pop off kerbs easily. I think maybe a regular rally XV02 would be good. 

[BuggyDad 5904]

There was a similar question to this not long ago and he ended up going for an XV-01.

He had a thread that preceded this that discussed the options a bit like you're asking but I'm afraid I can't find it. You may be able to find it from that thread though. 

Anyway you have a range of options. The XV-01 and 02 can be rally or road but the XV-01 is a sort of light rally set up as stock while the XV-02 is available in either rally or the RS road version. The 02 is quite a lot more expensive but I guess it's probably worth it if you want the extra upgraded parts it includes. 

The basic TT-02 is basic as stock. Opinions vary on it with some knowledgeable people liking it and others not so much. Most will recommend oil shocks as a required addition, which any other option you'll look at comes with. Personally I think its suspension lets it down in ways that are hard to overcome. Its steering is also not great but this is fixable (at a price). The S and SR have totally different suspension parts but still need the steering improving. I have an SR, and I think probably most of what's good about it for me is already included on the S. 

TT-02 drift versions include oil shocks I believe, and are regarded as good value options. 

I think many people look at the basic TT-02, add up the upgrades they'll do and decide it makes more sense for them to get something a bit better that doesn't need those upgrades. Hence the above references to XV-01/2.

For what it's worth (it might not mean anything), I have an XV-01, which is currently set up for the road, A basic TT-02 (rally set up) and a TT-02SR (road). I run the XV all the time and the other two have been used very little. Mainly I just like how it drives. And I find it pretty reliable and strong enough. And it's much better at getting round tight corners. 

[Rinskie 1024]

So I was in your exact position. I have an M08 that is fun to run but is pretty picky on its desired running surfaces. So I bought a TT02R to run in the streets and parking lots. I really do like the TT02 almost exclusively because it's not a "racing" car. It's a carefree runner. I am glad I chose the R variant. Bearings, and the 3 degree rear hubs. It is a fun and relaxing car to drive. It's really well behaved and goes where you point it. 

[Kowalski86 4274]

1 hour ago, Rijkvv said:

A version of the TT-02. Easy to perform maintenance and plenty of parts available no doubt, but very basic and I’m afraid a downgrade from an M-08. I could go for one of the better versions (S, SR or SRX), but wouldn’t a more exclusive version also make it harder to find replacement parts? 

Some Type S bits can be annoying to locate if you end up needing replacements, and the spacers/adapters/kludges make working on them annoying.

I'd go for a Type R, a more adjustable aftermarket motor mount, and replace the spur gear with a plastic 48p gear (as it comes with the high speed gear set). That will let you gear it for brushless.

Build the shocks with longer eyelets, set it in to "rally mode", and you'll have a rally car that sits higher than an XV01, while being cheaper to fix/much easier to work on. Mine did a decent job at soaking up bumps and it could even run on light grass.

If the TA02 had more a rally lexan shell I'd reccomend it too, it was basically the "original" rally car of the day. It doesn't really need anything to do some light off-roading.

The XV02 will be more expensive/harder to repair if you wreck it. Plus it's just really bad value compared to the countless brushless RTRs on the market.

I have an XV01, and while I can get parts it's not nearly as basic as a TT-02 to work on. It's also easier to roll it over on concrete, so I wouldn't make it go ballistic.

 

[BuggyDad 5904]

9 minutes ago, Kowalski86 said:

I have an XV01, and while I can get parts it's not nearly as basic as a TT-02 to work on. It's also easier to roll it over on concrete, so I wouldn't make it go ballistic.

In stock form it's got more roll and will roll more easily that some things but with shorter shocks mine doesn't grip-roll really. And even at stock rally height you can probably get rid of most of a tendency to roll over with tyres, suspension and maybe even diff settings. 

But what I came back to add really was that I too have an M-08(R) and same as you both I really like it but only on the right surface. It's worth pointing out though that that's a much higher end car than TT-02 (indeed maybe even than XV-01 in some regards) and so just be aware of that. Higher quality plastics and more of a race type design. Don't expect similar quality from a TT. 

[naturbo2000 1386]

I have an M08 (shorter than short), TT02S (modded to rally) and TT02D (modded to RWD with a Yeah Racing front end).

It totally depends what you want (your title says "basher"), but the step down from a M08 to a TT02 (/D/R) is quite significant. If carefree bashing is what you want,  then one of those variants is fine,  but I really appreciate the arms and knuckles on a S (/SR/SRX) as being a different league.

That said,  from your description,  I immediately thought XV01/XV02 and I have no experience of either. TT02 of any form would be fine. I really would recommend the S, and often do.

[Juggular 5088]

DF01, DF02, or DF03 are decent buggies.  

As old as it is, DF-01 is still very capable.  Parts should be available since Manta Ray was reissued several years ago.  

 

[Kowalski86 4274]

21 minutes ago, Juggular said:

DF01, DF02, or DF03 are decent buggies. 

Buggies are definitely better about "super fast care free bashing" than any on-roader.

Of those three, I'd skip the DF-02 since it's basically a cheapo TT-01 that wants to be a buggy. The other two are probably better choices.

As far as the "step down" from an M08 to a TT02...the others do have a point. The TT02 isn't much of a step up from a Nikko, but you don't need anything "fancy" for just playing around.

[skom25 2179]

9 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

There was a similar question to this not long ago and he ended up going for an XV-01.

He had a thread that preceded this that discussed the options a bit like you're asking but I'm afraid I can't find it. You may be able to find it from that thread though. 

Anyway you have a range of options. The XV-01 and 02 can be rally or road but the XV-01 is a sort of light rally set up as stock while the XV-02 is available in either rally or the RS road version. The 02 is quite a lot more expensive but I guess it's probably worth it if you want the extra upgraded parts it includes. 

The basic TT-02 is basic as stock. Opinions vary on it with some knowledgeable people liking it and others not so much. Most will recommend oil shocks as a required addition, which any other option you'll look at comes with. Personally I think its suspension lets it down in ways that are hard to overcome. Its steering is also not great but this is fixable (at a price). The S and SR have totally different suspension parts but still need the steering improving. I have an SR, and I think probably most of what's good about it for me is already included on the S. 

TT-02 drift versions include oil shocks I believe, and are regarded as good value options. 

I think many people look at the basic TT-02, add up the upgrades they'll do and decide it makes more sense for them to get something a bit better that doesn't need those upgrades. Hence the above references to XV-01/2.

For what it's worth (it might not mean anything), I have an XV-01, which is currently set up for the road, A basic TT-02 (rally set up) and a TT-02SR (road). I run the XV all the time and the other two have been used very little. Mainly I just like how it drives. And I find it pretty reliable and strong enough. And it's much better at getting round tight corners. 

 

[Juggular 5088]

6 hours ago, Kowalski86 said:

Of those three, I'd skip the DF-02 since it's basically a cheapo TT-01 that wants to be a buggy.

Lol... DF-02 sounds terrible.  My opinion is a bit different.  It definitely is a buggy just like TT02B.  I haven't thought to compare it to TT-01, but I did look up just now. The center shaft box opens up to the top, where as DF-02 opens to the bottom. But you are correct, they are similar.  Learning something everyday!  

It's a cousin to TT-02B.  Unlike TT-02b, it's got metal diffs to handle a bit more power, and a stiffer tub. But the battery tray is not really good.  I agree DF-01 is better balanced, and DF-03 is a class above (sadly, I don't have DF03). 

The chassis has a bolted coffin as the spine.  That makes it very stiff like a truss bridge.  

I'd say Tamiya didn't future-proof the tray. (Tamiya has been slow in accepting LiPo batteries). 

And the diff cases are horizontal, presumably to better handle vertical shocks.  

If TT-02B can do just fine without super stiff spine, DF-02's chassis is probably an overkill.  But I appreciate it nonetheless.  

DF-03 is a bit more advanced.  It's comes with ball diffs and more adjustable when compared to entry buggies like DF01, DF02, or TT02B.  

The battery box forms the truss.

If I remember correctly (because I can't find my Manta Ray), you can flex the chassis of DF-01 and make the center shaft bind a bit. (or was it the Big Wig? Or both? Those wire shafts can also flex. So it's no big deal, I suppose.)  I just flexed my Boomerang chassis and it does bind a bit.  If you look at the weight distribution, DF-01 is very similar to M-08.  I think that's the secret sauce that people like about DF-01.  Anyway, with DF02 definitely no flex that could bind. I assume the same for DF-03.  

XV-01 should be better if someone is looking to go a bit rougher than onroad, but not as rough as a buggy, at the same level as M-08.  I don't know much about XV-02. Newer is often better, but some times it isn't.  

An inexpensive one to get your toe into the rally water could be MF-01X.  The motor is in the back. So it does drive like an old VW bug.  I don't have M08, but compared to my M-06, MF-01X is a step or two down. (Both M-06 and MF-01X have the motor hanging behind the rear wheels).  But as a basher?  Put some sticky grease on the diffs and it will go places where M-06 can't. It's nothing luxurious. It's a basher. (Is Fiat 131 Abarth Rally out yet?)  

 

[Andreas W 2509]

For use like described I would choose a rally car. I think for the long term the XV-02 Pro would be an excellent car with good parts support. I have an XV-01 and I love it. It works like a dream all year around go gravel, snow, ice, tarmac, you name it.I only change wheels and shock eyelets. 

 

If it does not have to be a Tamiya I expect the Carten T410 Rally to be good. I don't have one, but based on my ultra positive experience with the M210R I think it must be good. It looks more or less like a scaled up M210R and is good equipped straight out of the box. The only upgrade I would get for it would be the fan mount and a fan (according to climate) and a good selection of pinions. I like my M210R so much so I got an M210 FWD recently (which is specced like an R as well).

 

https://www.tonisport.de/en/car-kits/touring-car/58307/carten-t410-rally-1-10-touring-car-kit

[Andreas W 2509]

Like our good man , BuggyDad,  I have to chime in something else:

 

To make the M-08 more useful you can run fullsize TC wheels. This is my M-08 with unfinished Escort shell and Ride belted slicks. Like this it has 11mm ground clearance. It is here in the 55d height and I have 7mm hexes at the rear. With 5mm hexes, one hole higher on the bodyposts,  or if you cut the arches let's say 5mm larger all round it should not rub and you achievea look like the Gatebil Extreme cars or the cars running the German Bergcup in the 1:1 world. 

[Rijkvv 66]

Thaks all for the replies. Much appreciated. I thought I did my best to not open a topic of something similar, maybe I've overlooked it.

A Nimh battery tray is no problem. I don't see myself switch to LiPo's in the near future. Or will a brushless set drain a Nimh very fast?

I prefer Tamiya, considered Carten a while ago, but it was not as broadly available as Tamiya, and the local RC shop never heard of it. Might be a quality brand, but I like to keep the option open to have a physical shop nearby for spare parts et cetera.

The XV-01 looks nice, also aesthetically IMO with everything shrouded away. But I've understood the XV-02 is easier in maintenance, for sure parts availability should be not as good as XV-02 at the moment.

I believe the TA-02 has a ball diff in the back, is that something to be worried about? I considered an FF-03 a while ago and actually bought a gear diff to replace it (though I never got the chassis itself). Isn't the TA-02 very old though?

Never thought about the MF-01X, but I think I'll go for a full 1:10 touring car. The roads nearby are mostly clinker brick roads. Smoother roads are too busy with traffic, or just too far away that I can't be really bothered (happened to have a very smooth road nearby, but it got replaced with clinker bricks as well). I don't see myself to drive somewhere to the other side of town to just have a bit of RC fun. Maybe I'm different in that regard compared to you guys.  Some gravel paths nearby though.

TT-02R seems quite foolproof, the steering is something that's mentioned though. Say I do decide to go for a TT-02, which would be the better way to improve steering? There's the aluminium upgrade set, but I could also order the TT-02D parts which I've understood also solve slop and are much cheaper.
Maybe a TT-02R would be enough for me. Even brushed. As mentioned in that other topic, better to drive a slow car fast than the other way. Then again, I like a car that can drive straight, and I like quality stuff, even though I might not know what to do with setup options and it might be overkill. Just like wanting to have Gedore tools that rarely leave the toolbox.

Some random idea I got is to wait for the BT-01 (preferably a version equipped with oil dampers and ball bearings) and reviews of that one. I'm not in a hurry though, better to think it over before I buy something and later regret it.

[BuggyDad 5904]

A brushless motor is a little more efficient than brushed, so if its power/speed was equal, I would guess it might even allow a battery to last a little longer than brushed, but probably imperceptibly so. A key advantageous property of LiPo as a technology is that it stays at (well, near to) its starting voltage through the run, where NiMh's voltage will drop more at the start of the run so most of the run time is a bit lower power than max. Another is just more power for the weight. It's also the case that our LiPos are just a higher voltage than the NiMhs we use, so a bit more power. The downsides are about risk and the need to treat them right. Whether they are for you is a debate with I would guess a similar number of people here on both sides of. If you're looking for more power and speed (I guess you may be if you're talking about brushless?) it's something to look into but not a necessity. 

On TT-02s, for me I think the key change across the range comes as you move from basic/D/R to S (or SR or SRX) because S suspension is fundamentally different and accounts for quite a lot of the chassis. It would not be practical to buy the parts as an upgrade. All the other stuff, including different steering parts, you're looking at a few hop-ups here and there really (and even on the SR half of them are missing). 

On steering, I have the super fancy long tie rod set (54965) on my SR. It's expensive (I got it from Japan for a good price - I wouldn't have paid UK prices for it) but I think it is a big improvement. However that is mostly just because it provides a bridge between the tie rods, getting rid of an arrangement which is bound to cause a load of slop. I think, if you're into modifying stuff, nearly the same result could be achieved by just making something yourself. Or someone so inclined could design the necessary parts for 3d print pretty easily I reckon. Equally, it's an example of where solving a single disadvantage of the TT-02 can cost enough to buy you a different model entirely. 

[BuggyDad 5904]

1 hour ago, Rijkvv said:

Thaks all for the replies. Much appreciated. I thought I did my best to not open a topic of something similar, maybe I've overlooked it.

Not really, everyone's different and many of us have asked some variation of the question "what shall I get next?" I certainly have. It's all good fun. Welcome! 

You know, what we really hope is you'll buy something or other, tinker with it, share your successes or failures, smile, have a laugh, get addicted and then buy a Clodbuster or something and around we go again. 

[Sogogi 3361]

Good suggestions above…

My 2cents

- if you really like m08 minus the ground clearance. M06 is awesome.

- if you want full 1/10 size, xv-01 is awesome. However, if you like much easier maintenance, tt-02 or its variants are great. (From parts support perspective, both are good)

 

 

[Big Jon 686]

The XV-01 is perfect for general street bashing. It’s just such a peach. I cannot seem to adequately express just how good it is as a general purpose car, and even though it’s been around for a decade now, still feels thoroughly modern.

 I’m just finding an XV02, and while it’s a lovely little kit, it’s more off-road focused than the 01. Obviously, the RS will have more of an on-road focus, so it will probably better suit your needs. The standard 01 does fine on rough surfaces. 
 

The XV chassis are so good on unprepared surfaces that I wouldn’t bother with TA/TB chassis, and the high spec TT chassis won’t perform as well and cost too much.

[Kowalski86 4274]

3 hours ago, Rijkvv said:

Isn't the TA-02 very old though?

TT-02R seems quite foolproof, the steering is something that's mentioned though. Say I do decide to go for a TT-02, which would be the better way to improve steering? 

Maybe a TT-02R would be enough for me. Even brushed. As mentioned in that other topic, better to drive a slow car fast than the other way. Then again, I like a car that can drive straight, and I like quality stuff, even though I might not know what to do with setup options and it might be overkill.

Some random idea I got is to wait for the BT-01 (preferably a version equipped with oil dampers and ball bearings).

It is...but sometimes old is good. The main problem with the TA02 is that the only current "rally car" release has a hard plastic shell on it.

The TT-02R comes with turnbuckles, which help reduce the friction/slop in the steering (but not entirely), the aluminum steering isn't worth it in my book. It helps, but the TT-02 isn't something that I consider "good enough" to toss more than a few dollars at, it's very much a "care free toy" to me.

Most of my "toy grade" RCs, including a cat toy, track straight better than my TT02s. Once upon a time I even had a "pimped out" Type S with Tamiyas aluminum steering, it still had steering issues.

If it's quality that you're after, I'd import an XV01 from Plaza Japan (and save money in the process), or look at the Kyosho Fazer. They sell a "rally" Subaru that's cheaper than the XV-02, just replace the electronics with your own and re-build it.

I had an MB-01 (the BT-01s smaller brother), I liked the idea, I did not like the execution. It's just an expensive body holder.

I don't know anything about the XV-02 beyond that some people have had issues with the dogbones falling out (which seems to be a trend with Tamiyas), I think it's grossly overpriced for what it is.

 

[Juggular 5088]

If you liked the quality of M-08, I would say you might want to lower your expectations if you go for simpler/cheaper/older chassis like TT02, TA02(DF-01), MB01, MF-01X, etc.  From the chassis mentioned, XV chassis would be on par with M08 in build quality. DF-03 would be on par too, but that's a full buggy.

I like M06, but that should be quite similar to M08 (which is why I'm hesitant to get an M08).  If you want to go on a rougher surface than touring, but not quite a buggy?  A rally chassis would fit that niche, and that'd be XV.  Unfortunately, I haven't built XV-01, so here is only a photo of the chassis.  XV-01 should be 3cm longer than M06 mid and 2cm wider than M06, but it's not going to be as wide as a buggy.  Despite the name "rally," my impression of TT-02R is that it's like M-chassis but 4WD. I don't know if it would be good for brick roads.  

Here is MF-01X to give you some idea as to the size of rally chassis (since MF-01X is a taller off-road M-ish chassis with simpler components).

My MF-01X has narrower tires, so it's same width as M06. But with stock tires, it should be 172mm.  (Fisheye lens + 3/4 view makes the left and right chassis look wider. But the center one is nearly identical to the left one.)  XV-01 should be wider, at 185mm.  

The front motor of XV-01 would be the opposite of M-08.  So that should be interesting if you happen to choose an XV chassis.  

Nothing's seriously wrong with other chassis.  If you happened to know only M-08? Driving a silly chassis like the Lunchbox would be very disappointing.  No chassis mentioned so far would be that bad, however.  When in doubt, you can buy one and try it. If you don't like it, you have a happy excuse to buy another. Next Christmas is only 11 months away!   

 

[Sogogi 3361]

3 hours ago, Juggular said:

When in doubt, you can buy one and try it. If you don't like it, you have a happy excuse to buy another.

Golden!

[Rijkvv 66]

It's time for me to make a few confessions.

I do have an XV01 Long Damper Spec. Brand new. Due to my previous thoughts though, I've never started it and wasn't sure if I would keep it. I'm still not sure, but I won't sell it anytime soon, just to make sure I won 't regret it later. I remember I've read quite alot about issues with the NN4 part, maybe I'll check if there's a way to prevent that.

This is the kind of street I'm talking about. Not really the Sahara desert, but on hindsight I see why the M08 had difficulties there. XV01 might be better suited for this than the average touring car, and could also be useful for gravel roads nearby.

I've considered the TA02 on a few occasions. I love the Lancia 037 (most overlooked Lancia rally car I think), but dreaded the body, both to work on and to keep in good condition. I also like the Calibra, and even considered buying the Cliff set to have an easier job (I think) compared to the white one. So the TA02 not fitted with a rally body is no issue for me I think, provided that I could run it without destroying the Calibra shell. And for the XV01 I would get a new body set or Killerbody anyway, no way I would try that Delta Integrale. I've tried the Impreza Arai body once, and the result? Let's say I do have a body I'm not afraid to use...
The next question about the TA02: is it suitable for brushless? It was designed long before brushless became a thing I believe. Here my autism is going to play a role, because in the bottom there's this hole for an ESC switch. I'd hate to let that be unused, so a Tamiya ESC it is. Three wires, so brushless it is. I think I'd go for a 17.5T motor, I figure it has plenty power with my lack of experience. I think I'd go for an aluminium motor mount, and ball bearings, but the latter applies to anything I drive. Does the TA02 have toe-in?

The other chassis that I would just have to get a Tamiya brushless motor in simply because there's a hole in the bottom  is the TT-01E. I've heard it's slightly better than the TT02. The only downsize is that there's no chassis-only kit, the TT01R type E (I think) would've been perfect but has been sold out for a while and thus I would need to get the upgrades seperately. I guess spare parts should be easier to get than for the TA02, but it's still an entry level kit. In favour of it I could get one with the Calibra body that I like (if only that Nissan R390 body was still available).

Now one more thing about the TT02. I remember I've seen or read about someone who reversed the front upper arms, increasing caster. Anyone has experience with this?

[BuggyDad 5904]

On the XV-01 NN4 part, I wouldn't get excited about it as a disadvantage of that chassis. Yes it is a weakness but it's nothing like many of the serious failings you see on some other tamiyas and it is fixable simply by either adding a shim to keep the pin from cutting into the plastic spacer, or using an aluminium spacer of the right size (I bought some to put into mine when I refit it but for the last year it's been stock, without issues) in place of the plastic one. It seems to me that it's really a minor issue. 

[Juggular 5088]

You could plaster AW grease on the BA15 pin (or on the side of NN4 that's facing the gear). That will make NN4 stick to the BG1 gear and prevent the pin from rotating into NN4 (because they are stuck together). No grease should be on NN4 that's facing the bearing. 

My guess is that people put grease on the bearing side.  NN4 gets stuck to the outer race of the bearing, so NN4 rubs against BA15.  

 

Or you could put a 0.1mm thin shim (M4x6mm) on the pin side.  I haven't built mine, but usually Tamiya would have 0.1mm play. If not, you can lightly sand NN4 to make room for a shim.  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801779412369.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller.2.7abakNqukNquva&gps-id=pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40000.327270.0&scm_id=1007.40000.327270.0&scm-url=1007.40000.327270.0&pvid=1be50cc2-40c7-4b17-805d-5f63afe76f92&_t=gps-id:pcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40000.327270.0,pvid:1be50cc2-40c7-4b17-805d-5f63afe76f92,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238114%231999&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!0.89!0.78!!!0.89!0.78!%402103011117065594420253221e9ad9!12000030476232444!rec!US!2630314545!&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailTopMoreOtherSeller|query_from%3A&search_p4p_id=202401291217220943691546850211035858_1

Above seller doesn't have 0.5mm thick washers, but  

You could also get 0.5mm thick washers and put 4 of them, instead of NN4.  It costs only $2.05 for fifty.  Again, you'd need M4x6mm.  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805462576939.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.11.2a166078mN8dXY&algo_pvid=143b4642-007f-4395-9299-af84bc8286c1&aem_p4p_detail=20240129130808511304012945280004766758&algo_exp_id=143b4642-007f-4395-9299-af84bc8286c1-5&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!1.20!1.03!!!1.20!1.03!%402101e9d217065624885551024e35a1!12000033880093177!sea!US!2630314545!&curPageLogUid=wHWNJ4yMtP7O&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A&search_p4p_id=20240129130808511304012945280004766758_6

 

(edit: took me days, but I found the same sized piece as NN4: )

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805776299657.html?spm=a2g0o.cart.0.0.115e38daSjMwZb&mp=1&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa

Choose D6xM4 and then Length 2mm

 

TA02 should should be able to handle a 17T brushless, even though it has no slipper clutch.  TA-02 is very similar to Humvee (DF-01). The Manta has longer arms and the suspension works much better than short-armed Humvee. But TA02 should be nearly identical (my Humvee came with a ball diff, so it should be called TA02, maybe? I don't exactly know the difference, is it the wheelbase?).  Even with a hard shell, they are not heavy enough. On a hard start, they'll spin tires rather than getting anything damaged. Especially on gravel.  Pointy edges of bricks could be very grabby, though.  

If the surface is grippy or if you mounted a hotter motor, "soft start" functions could help prevent damage.  Some fancy programmable ESCs can have soft start.  If not, many $70+ digital transmitters would have a throttle expo function.  You can set it so the first quarter or half the pull would get the car moving slowly. The motor wouldn't go from 0 RPM to 40,000 RPM in 0.1 second.  By the time 40,000 RPM signal was given, the motor could already be turning at 100 RPM, reducing the impact on the drivetrain.  

(If your motor goes up to 40,000 RPM, the first quarter pull would be 10,000 RPM.  But if you do expo, first quarter pull would only give a few hundred RPM. In this graph, even 1/2 pull wouldn't hit 10,000 RPM. Soft start = less strain on the drivetrain = software slipper clutch of a sort.) 

 

[BuggyDad 5904]

32 minutes ago, Juggular said:

You could plaster AW grease on the BA15 pin (or on the side of NN4 that's facing the gear). That will make NN4 stick to the BG1 gear and prevent the pin from rotating into NN4 (because they are stuck together). No grease should be on NN4 that's facing the bearing. 

My guess is that people put grease on the bearing side.  NN4 gets stuck to the outer race of the bearing, so NN4 rubs against BA15.  

Mine has lasted OK AFAIK (look forward to opening up and finding it chewed). I won't have greased between NN4 and the gear on mine but I see your point. Although I suspect it'd slow down the problem rather than eliminate it? Anyway I intend to replace NN4 on mine at some point simply based on the experience of others. 

I also won't have shimmed mine - other than where there are bevel gears I don't recall ever seeing axial play cause a problem and wasn't aware of this specific issue when I built mine. 

Coincidentally, I had just been researching what might fit. I think something like this should do it. They do a 4.2mm (ID) x 6mm (OD) x 2mm (length):

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404186828351

Or there will be a zillion other M4 spacers out there. I thought I'd already ordered something like this but I can't see I have. 

4 hours ago, Rijkvv said:

I do have an XV01 Long Damper Spec. 

One thing that does spring to mind is that the LD spec is, I expect, going to be more inclined to roll than the normal spec, and for your pavement-focussed use case I guess that'd therefore be disadvantageous vs the stock suspension arrangement. However, perhaps only marginally so and you could probably dial it out just in the shocks.

Disclaimer: I haven't experienced a LD spec one, I have simply messed with travel on mine and after I maxed the ride height I brought it back down to stock for my sort of "tarmac and light rally" preference. That said, I do really fancy trying LD spec and intend to do so, especially now I have become a serial shock-botherer.