Jump to content
Tamiyastef

The XM-01 fanbase or general info on this new pro chassis 58738

Recommended Posts

I’m no expert on stabilisers, but from poking a M05 set in there they would look to work but only with the dampers mounted at the outside holes of the damper stay to clear the springs (just).

IMG_8213.jpeg

IMG_8215.jpeg

Also as you may of noticed @Wystan Withers, I have fabricated a bit of aluminium angle with Fighting Buggy posts to mount the Giulia so it lines up with the dimples in the body for now 😉.

I do tend to end up with multiple body’s for a single chassis so your current damper stay R&D wouldn’t be wasted 😁

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/13/2024 at 1:27 PM, Honza said:

Thanks for the Info, how did you find PN of the swing shafts? I went through several documents and couldn't find it 😃

I can see a 3rd option - 19804932 + 42218 + 42219 + 42221 (not sure if it's cheaper option than modifying the whole set or not)

The fourth option would be that Tamiya offers us a DCJ set for the XM01 Pro. 😀 Unfortunately, the official parts list still is only available in Japanese. 

spacer.png

spacer.png

I also wonder when the first parts from third-party suppliers like Yeah Racing will be available? 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, chris.alex said:

Unfortunately, the official parts list still is only available in Japanese. 

You can use Google translate on the Japanese site. Unfortunately no new information, only the one we figured out here -  #42300 M-chassis set is listed as compatible, with additional information below:

Compress_20240725_095036_6415.jpg.0c40815898d6585da24ae98104fc30d9.jpg

42379/42220 are the 3mm 1050 bearings, 42218 is the TRF/M-07 wheel axle.

So, the option #1 is the official one 😃

When we are back to the topic of driveshaft, here is the reason why M-05 driveshafts don't work:

Resize_20240721_203045_5446.jpg.912d08be974e482af26d8ddec476c71e.jpg

At the top is a 30mm M-05 CVD, at the bottom an M-07 33mm cvd. The cross pin sits some 3mm deeper in the hub. That's also reason why M-05 DCJs don't require thinner bearing.

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

I do tend to end up with multiple body’s for a single chassis so your current damper stay R&D wouldn’t be wasted 😁

Not saying I didn't come up with the 'adjustable boy post' idea solely because I wanted to replace the chunky plastic system Tamiya designed with sexy blue aluminum (which just happens to be reversible as well) but I might have come up with the idea out of nothing more than a desire for sexy blue aluminum wink, wink; nudge, nudge.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I finally managed to take my xm-01 out today and it went well. I was surprised at how well it handled the bumps however the route I went on had too many big stone on the paths which wasn't ideal. The trimmed down rally blocks worked very well, plenty of grip. I also finished my mud guards which helped keep the dirt out. In this slowmo video you can also see the over drive working - https://youtu.be/DXSHGOrsUZE

 

20240726_152506.jpg

  • Like 5

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/24/2024 at 3:23 PM, chris.alex said:

Love the Fiat 131! How did you build the front and rear differentials? 39t/40t? Which oil? Did you install a center differential? Do you use the kit wheels and tyres? 

I built both with 39t with kit diff oil.  No centre diff.  Wheels, I had the mini rally blocks already glued up on the Panasport / Mini Lites that came with the Mini Cooper.. so for now those are what's on the car.  I had to use wider hex to get the wheels out as this body is wider thank most M chassis.  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Alex97 said:

 

20240726_152506.jpg

After all the faff of cutting out the polycarbonate guards I couldn’t help but think that they wouldn’t last to long being pebble dashed by stone’s. Yours certainly look a lot more robust.

It’s a shame this chassis didn’t get plastic moulded guards like the XV-01. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Raman36 said:

I built both with 39t with kit diff oil.

As I expect mine will see most of its use on tight Racing by Post tracks, I put 40t diff’s front and rear as I had one left over from the XV-02 and top speed isn’t so much of a concern.

Feel’s pretty nippy on a 22t brushed at the moment, but will probably end up brushless at some point.

**disclaimer - I am far from a car set up expert 😉 any pointers in that direction are always welcome**

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

polycarbonate guards

They were a right pain to trim and didn't offer that much protection, mine line up with the wheel arches so look a bit more realistic. 

 

Plus I've noticed that part support for this is very limited, so far all you can buy is the arms, hubs and body posts. I wonder when the chassis, shock towers and under body will be released. 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 7/26/2024 at 8:07 PM, Re-Bugged said:

As I expect mine will see most of its use on tight Racing by Post tracks, I put 40t diff’s front and rear as I had one left over from the XV-02 and top speed isn’t so much of a concern.

Feel’s pretty nippy on a 22t brushed at the moment, but will probably end up brushless at some point.

**disclaimer - I am far from a car set up expert 😉 any pointers in that direction are always welcome**

I actually had forgotten that there was a 39 and 40t. My friend who built his after mine asked me what I did. So I went looking and noticed the 40t was not on sprue. I opened rear diff hoping it was there, NOPE.. it was in front 🤦🏻. So I swapped it out for 39t. 
 

Im almost finished with body.. decals done 😥 , light buckets in, mirrors in. Waiting on TS dark blue and camel yellow to  arrive to finish rear wing, roof wing, and side intake vents.  Then will be wiring for lights. 

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone find a heatsink that fits? I just ran mine with a Sport Tuned motor with a 28t pinion and the motor is hot enough to burn. Though to be fair I think my gear mesh is too tight.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, RallyX said:

Anyone find a heatsink that fits? I just ran mine with a Sport Tuned motor with a 28t pinion and the motor is hot enough to burn. Though to be fair I think my gear mesh is too tight.

Maybe 28t is a bit to high a gearing for it? But TT02 heat sink fits mate, check out page 12 on this thread  😉

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a generic 'light blue' 15mm standoff from epay (I guess these are used a lot by the drone guys so lots of colors and sizes available) and a 10x3 set screw in the body post itself like the ones used to join ball ends together for suspension links and whatnot. Flipping it over and mounting the body posts in the reward position puts them right at the edge of base of the rear windscreen on the Gulia body, but using 30 or 35mm stand offs would put them nicely in the flat of the trunk... er.. uh... boot.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Custom home-brew, resin printed. Centers can be swaped as needed.  Had a fantasy about commissioning the wheel portion cnc machined in aluminum so I could sell the wheels and then just put various centers up public domain for folks to print as they like, but the one quote I got said they wouldn't be able to cut the backside... which is odd as clearly plenty of wheels are machined front and back both, so I suspect it was a "go away don't bother us with your small-job hobbyist stuff" type of answer.

1205711719_m-chassisbbswheelv18.jpg.88acdfc90f3068778fe319a94683fd86.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, Wystan Withers said:

Custom home-brew

Great work! 

7 hours ago, Wystan Withers said:

resin printed

So plenty strong enough to be driven?

7 hours ago, Wystan Withers said:

they wouldn't be able to cut the backside.

Weird. Does it have ribs on the inside or is it roughly the same as the outside?

Maybe their cutting tools are too big to get in the hex shape?

Shame nonetheless 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe they will be strong enough when I print them with the nylon-like resin which has some elasticity to it, most resins can be a bit brittle and this batch I printed with my 'slop' bottle that's just a mix of whatever resin I had leftover which was too much to waste, but not enough to justify it's own bottle any longer, it goes in the slop bottle for prototyping tasks.

And no, for the cnc quote I gave them a very clean design, no internal ribs or anything, just a flat disk with the 12mm hex drive in it and they said they wouldn't be able to cut the blind recesses on the back.  My gut tells me the issue is they didn't want to have to remount the part halfway through- they could cut the front, they could cut the exterior faces to mount the tire, but to cut the back they'd have to flip it over, remount it, then cut the backside and that would likely require making a jig specific for this project. All fine and dandy for someone like Yeah Racing to make a custom jig as they know they will be spinning out hundreds of copies, but I imagine the 'small lot CNC service' companies are more interested in making relatively simple things they can whip out quickly and easily to keep labor costs reasonable.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Now it’s a Rally car coz it has mud flaps 😁

IMG_8368.jpeg

This turned out really beautiful! 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 minutes ago, Re-Bugged said:

Now it’s a Rally car coz it has mud flaps 😁

IMG_8368.jpeg

Very nice, did you mount the guards to the body or the chassis? 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...