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skom25

TT-02 SSS... Stock Build. Almost.

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Update:

Shocks built. To have equal ride height on front and rear, I added two orings inside. On rear additionally I added 0.5 mm spacer, so now shocks limit arms movement.

As previously, I used TRP pistons.

IMG-20240224-154214290.jpg

TRF grease on orings.

IMG-20240224-154814289.jpg

Blue retainers which I already had. I polished edge, because I used them previously in buggy and there were some scratches. I am still not sure if I like them.

IMG-20240224-185044042-HDR.jpg

Springs from kit are so hard, that I used 800 oil and still have feeling that shocks work very fast.

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Dont know if this is of any use to any. Heres a few of my TT02s for reference. 
 

Stock TT02, a TT02R, TT02SRX

lD3ydnP.jpeg
 

Iqv0vlp.jpeg

Q2zi4jL.jpeg

LuqcJoC.jpeg

btOizsf.jpg

Ill pick up a Type S next as a comparison. Just need to find a shell for I want for one

 

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Dry fitted wheels, to check ride height. Seems quite nice. Without electronics etc, I have 10 mm on the edge of chassis.

IMG-20240224-191310658-HDR.jpg

It is TOTALLY different than buggies and even XV-01. Really like it!

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4 hours ago, Pylon80 said:

That's not a problem. I noticed that too back when I built my first TT-02 and recall reading and re-reading the manual 10 times 😅

Tamiya simply included stoppers at the back but not at the front. The amount that the arms fall down in your case will be controlled by the length of the shocks you are building. If you find that the rear is more limiting than your 61mm shocks (that would be a little surprising but possible) you can simply trim the little plastic tabs on the rear uprights.

Remember that the TT-02 was designed as a foolproof beginner car that is supposed to be usable with the unrestricted pogo sticks. The folks in Shizuoka must have found that it drove better with the tabs at the rear. You are already taking it one step further by building proper shocks for it.

Also I just used my cristal ball and predicted that you will be getting 3deg aluminium rear uprights in the near future! These won't have the tabs either ;)

Definitely not for this build, but since I am more and more On Road guy... I really consider to buy higher spec kit in future, if I will like TC and have place to run them.

So far, I really like this kit. It is simple and with few cheap Hop Ups and spares I have, it looks really nice now.

R version seems to be really nice kit. However, probably S with few Hop Ups is even better.

What I like is that I can use the same body in few different kits. It is bit problematic with buggies, where you in most cases need body for each chassis.

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29 minutes ago, Kpowell911 said:

Dont know if this is of any use to any. Heres a few of my TT02s for reference. 
 

Stock TT02, a TT02R, TT02SRX

lD3ydnP.jpeg
 

Iqv0vlp.jpeg

Q2zi4jL.jpeg

LuqcJoC.jpeg

btOizsf.jpg

Ill pick up a Type S next as a comparison. Just need to find a shell for I want for one

 

Which Pinion do you use in that Rally version with Super Stock motor?

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11 minutes ago, skom25 said:

Which Pinion do you use in that Rally version with Super Stock motor?

Whatever stock is, but its an RW one. Not saying thats the best choice just what Ive got

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1 hour ago, skom25 said:

Definitely not for this build, but since I am more and more On Road guy... I really consider to buy higher spec kit in future, if I will like TC and have place to run them.

See how you like it with the stock uprights. Bear in mind they are 0deg; this is a design compromise that Tamiya did in order to have the same part for the left and right knuckle - now that was cheap Tamiya! 3deg of rear toe is more typical on touring cars - a huge difference.

1 hour ago, skom25 said:

I have 10 mm on the edge of chassis.

Measuring ride height is not easy on a TT-02 because the lower deck is not flat. If you wish to compare to other people's setup or to setup sheets you might find online (TheRCRacer for instance) then is is customary to measure the height using the lowest point under the deck. I am bit worried if you built the shocks at the length I mentioned earlier :( as that was assuming 6mm of ride height! You will want about 2mm of droop at the front and 3mm at the rear once you are all done with electronics installed and so on.

I have a complete TT-02 in parts in a tub with very cool hop-ups... I have been hitching to do something nice with it... Reading your build makes me want to tackle it next!

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6 mm ride height is bad in TC?

To be honest, it is bit strange for me. We can discuss about shocks length etc, but at the end, rear uprights have limiters so I will end up with the same ride height, no matter what I do.

My shocks are 58 mm long and 51 mm Eye to Eye.

What if I just rotate uprights to High position?

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26 minutes ago, skom25 said:

6 mm ride height is bad in TC?

To be honest, it is bit strange for me. We can discuss about shocks length etc, but at the end, rear uprights have limiters so I will end up with the same ride height, no matter what I do.

My shocks are 58 mm long and 51 mm Eye to Eye.

What if I just rotate uprights to High position?

The limiters are only limiting the maximum amount of droop. Your ride height should be a healthy amount away from droop (2mm front, 3mm rear).

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Ok. In that case, I think I should rebuild shocks and do them as in manual. I thought that suspension will be so stiff, that I do not have to worry about ride height.

Only annoying thing is fact, that kit springs are really short. Even with two orings inside, there was some space between spring and shock body.

Now I think, that probably it will be enough to rebuild only front shocks. I built rear to match distance between ball connectors, so it does not matter if travel is limited by arms or orings inside.

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@Pylon80 I spent some time thinking about shocks and at the end, I think I found good solution.

On rear I used 2 orings and 0.5 mm spacer, so there is place just for hair between suspension arm and upright limiter.

On front I used 1 oring. Now shock has 60 mm in total.

Stock springs are strangly short, because they are only 26 mm. On rear it is not an issue. It is worse on front, because there is 2 mm gap between spring and shock body. I will find way to remove that gap. I even have an idea.

HOWEVER

I have one doubt. I am not sure about spring rate. If springs are really hard and there will be no or minimal droop, front will be much higher than rear.

Unfortunately, Tamiya Dealer is totally Out of Stock. I can only wish about 28 mm springs.

 

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Because I have spare A sprues, I decided to try to remove suspension limiters. I think it looks good and now suspension should not be limited anymore, right?

IMG-20240226-173917952.jpg

However, I still think about what @Pylon80 wrote. Are rear uprights with 2.5 or 3 degrees massive upgrade? Is it really something which takes car into next level?

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