Restoring my TB-01

[exptom 0]

Hi,

I recently got hold of my old TB-01 Subaru Impreza "Arai Edition" when clearing some old toys from my parents house. I'd really like to get it running again :-)

• Is there any maintenance I should do before trying to power it on for the first time? (it hasn't been used for probably around 20 years), it looks very dusty!
  • e.g. anything that needs cleaning/re-lubricating?
  • do the shocks need re-filling with oil etc?
• I  am missing a battery pack and charger. Please could you advise what I should purchase. I used to have a couple of silver Tamiya Ni-cd packs (the RC1400SP looks familiar from a quick google search). Could you recommend what would be good packs to get now - should I use Ni-mh instead? I am in the UK so any recommendations for charger/battery purchases from UK supplies would be appreciated.

If it helps I'm pretty sure it is the stock motor that came with the kit (it's silver with a silver heatsink). I remember replacing the speed controller for a digital one - it says "Ko propo" on a blue heatsink

Thanks for any help!

 

 

[Kowalski86 4076]

Batteries: I'd go with NiMH for now, I'm not sure which ESC your car has or if it'll support LiPO. I use Zee batteries myself.

For your charger, go with a "Hobby Fans B6", this specific charger is frequently re-labeled and sold for higher prices. My LHS has been using a "Common Sense" variant for years without issues, the only differences between them are the case and the buttons.

Cleaning/Lubricating: it couldn't hurt to re-grease the seals on the shocks and run some new fluid in them.

[exptom 0]

Thanks for the input. I've dug out the model number of the ESC and it is Ko Propo KSC-1000 it only mentions ni-cd in the manual - will ni-mh be ok as well? (it won't over discharge them?)  Manual: https://usermanual.wiki/Document/kopropoksc1000fr1100frmanual.472142224.pdf

 

[FromageTheDog 73]

NiMH and NiCd are essentially the same in practice, with NiMH really being the more forgiving of the two (less prone to "memory").  No concerns at all using NiMH in a system designed around NiCd.

[exptom 0]

Thank you. Any recommendation about what capacity battery I should look at? I assume the greater the mah the longer the run time of the car...

Also - any recommendations for UK online RC shops? I'd rather not risk amazon for battery/chargers - I don't trust them to necessarily be safe!

[Badcrumble 4417]

One of the largest UK shops for choice and service is probably Modelsport though they are also up there top in terms of price.

[Twinfan 1834]

There's quite a lot of choice for online RC shops in the UK.  I've used a lot of them and they've all been good.  I just use whichever has the best deal on what I'm looking for.

I'm a fan of Overlander stuff, so I'd recommend their 5000mAh battery:

https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/7-2v-5000mah-nimh-battery/

And their standard charger:

https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/overlander-mains-fast-peak-charger-nx-20/

I've used these for the last few years and they've been brilliant.  If you want a faster charger, I have one of these (a Radient Mistral LED) that works great:

https://wheelspinmodels.co.uk/i/302102/

[PoD2k2 99]

When I recommissioned mine I basically unbuilt it, gave it all a good clean, checked all the parts over and then rebuilt it from scratch. I now have 3 TB01 Chassis, 2 are in good nick and one I bought for spares as the parts are hard to come by on their own. They are a good strong chassis so don't be too scared of running it.

I run mine on Nimh and it goes absolutely fine on Torque Tuned motors. Plenty fast enough for my skill level!

[FromageTheDog 73]

23 hours ago, exptom said:

Thank you. Any recommendation about what capacity battery I should look at? I assume the greater the mah the longer the run time of the car...

My experience has been that with the higher efficiencies of modern ESCs, the fact that all chargers now are "peak" chargers, and assuming bearings, correct gearing, and high-quality connectors, that a 3000 mAh battery provides more run-time than I have the attention span to take advantage of (~20 minutes?).  Also keep in mind the higher capacity batteries will be noticeably heavier...

[exptom 0]

22 hours ago, PoD2k2 said:

When I recommissioned mine I basically unbuilt it, gave it all a good clean, checked all the parts over and then rebuilt it from scratch.

That sounds like a good idea and it would be fun to build it again

Any advice on what damper oil to buy (there seem to be all sorts of variants)!

Also - what grease would I need for a rebuild - a quick search shows there is a dizzying array! Will I need more than one type for different parts?

 

[PoD2k2 99]

I just used the Tamiya stuff as per the manual. I just run my cars occasionally for fun so wasn't too fussed.

Just be careful when undoing and retightening screws etc. This is older plastic now and can strip inside and crack, don't be too scared though, it's just a heads up.

[exptom 0]

Just now, PoD2k2 said:

I just used the Tamiya stuff as per the manual. I just run my cars occasionally for fun so wasn't too fussed.

Just be careful when undoing and retightening screws etc. This is older plastic now and can strip inside and crack, don't be too scared though, it's just a heads up.

I had a look and the manual just seemed to say "damper oil" but there is soft/medium/hard available now and the "tamiya ceramic grease" seems to have stopped being made. is the "cera grease" the same?

 

[PoD2k2 99]

1 minute ago, exptom said:

I had a look and the manual just seemed to say "damper oil" but there is soft/medium/hard available now and the "tamiya ceramic grease" seems to have stopped being made. is the "cera grease" the same?

 

I used the Cera Grease, bought it off of eBay. Cant remember which oil, think it is the Tamiya green bottle. Working in the office today so can't nip upstairs to check lol

[svenb 3914]

11 hours ago, exptom said:

I had a look and the manual just seemed to say "damper oil" but there is soft/medium/hard available now and the "tamiya ceramic grease" seems to have stopped being made. is the "cera grease" the same?

 

I'd use the yellow soft oil to start and perhaps go harder if it bottoms out easily.

And as others have said it's a tough chassis, unfortunately spares are getting rare though 

[TurnipJF 9872]

The TB-01 is a tough old thing. Mine underwent a full resto a while ago. The only parts that were beyond saving were the chassis tub and shock towers. The replacement tub was found thanks to a "wanted" ad on this here forum and the shock towers were replaced with carbon ones from Fibre Lyte. 

[svenb 3914]

Just now, TurnipJF said:

 The replacement tub was found thanks to a "wanted" ad on this here forum

I think I remember that

[TurnipJF 9872]

1 minute ago, svenb said:

I think I remember that

Indeed. You were instrumental in the acquisition of said chassis tub. 👍😀

[svenb 3914]

1 minute ago, TurnipJF said:

Indeed. You were instrumental in the acquisition of said chassis tub. 👍😀

Always the piggy in the middle 😕