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Smokescreen38

The “Dyna Kong” lives! Successes and struggles…

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I’ve been enjoying the G6-01 platform a lot. I love the uniqueness of the gear train, rear steering, and the traction potential of 6 wheel drive.  There are some obvious limitations regarding “crawling” capabilities but as a trail truck platform, it does pretty well. 

I had both the Konghead and Dynahead in my fleet for a while  and despite some significant differences, they started to feel redundant.  So I sold the Konghead chassis but kept the body.

The Kong is gone but the Dynahead got some funding for upgrades.  Full ball bearings, oil shocks, rear steering servo, Hobbywing 3100kv sensored combo, etc. Currently, I’m running the non-boxart Konghead body on the Dynahead chassis (with the portal axles, of course). I also soldered in a voltage meter to provide some “telemetry.” 

The Hobbywing setup is a good match.  Thanks to the gear reduction through the portals, the stock 27t motor makes the Dynahead slow enough to be pretty boring. It now goes about twice as fast. According to the GPS, it goes 16mph on 3s but it  looks and feels a lot faster than that.  That could be because of the strong acceleration. 

It’s a really fun truck.It has done one long trail hike and lots of ripping around the backyard. One major problem has cropped up:  During sharp turns with rear wheel steering engaged, a rear wheel sometimes clashes with a middle wheels and gets stuck.  I’ve turned the steering rate pretty far down in the rear to the point where they shouldn’t be able to touch but it still happens and it seems to be a result of slop in the steering linkage. I switched to a metal servo mount but it didn’t help much.  Any ideas about how to fix this would be helpful! 

Low speed modulation isn’t great either. I don’t know if it’s the Hobbywing sensored system not being well suited or if there’s just too much friction in the drivetrain….but my TRX4 with a Holmes Hobby 4100kv motor (capable of 30mph on 3s) is still way better at going slow and still having enough torque to climb.  Any guesses?

What are your experiences with this platform? Any favorite mods? 

IMG_4099.jpeg

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The pictures didn’t properly capture the pink LEDs shining into cotton “smoke” emanating from the stacks but I thought it came out pretty well. :) 
 

Also, I can’t trim the ugly body posts if I ever want to go back to the Dynahead body. 

IMG_4086.jpeg

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I love my G6-01, although it's been a while since I drove it.  (Actually it's been a while since I drove anything, I missed the final mow of the season last year and my lawn is too long for anything but Clod-sized tyres).

I don't use rear steering on mine and I don't use portals, mine's just an all-round fun basher.  The only proper mods I fitted are oil shocks, although I think they need a lot of tuning as it handled way better on friction shocks.  Now it seems to want to turn over once the speed gets up, especially on rippled terrain like damp sand where the receding tide has left flow marks.  I have a top-heavy ABS body with lots of reinforcement, which probably doesn't help my handling, and I keep wondering about replacing it with a lexan body.

As for your rear steering problem - could you flip the rear lower arms to position the wheel further back?  You'd probably have to make a new top arm (from threaded rod and rod ends) and it's possible the dogbones wouldn't line up, but it might be worth a try.  You could even modify the lower arms by cutting part of them away, so they can slide further back, then using a shim to make up the space.  Again you'd probably have to make a new top link but the change wouldn't be so extreme and the dogbone would probably be OK.

A friend brought a bone-stock G6-01 non-portal edition with a plastic Bruder truck body to the UK Scale Nationals last October.  The only mods were a half-decent set of crawling tyres.  We thought it would be terrible on the trails but it was actually really good - ground clearance was a problem in places and lack of weight low down meant it relied on wheel speed at times to keep up the momentum, but overall it was a very capable crawler and made it around the courses with no more trouble than my dedicated trail rigs.

Here's mine - I've never been happy with the paint job...

sm_P4030142.md.jpg

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I’m a massive fan of the Konghead 👍

Great fun and amusing to run and watch in action. 

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Very nice!  I had planned to swap over to the Kong body this year as well. My Dyna is due for a refresh. 

The stock wheels have a ton of offset, not surprised that they catch on the center tire.  The portals push everything out and add a ton of scrub radius - combined with the offset on the wheels, they are going to touch. I run 1.9's just for that reason and they clear fine.

I didn't like the rear steer at first, the steering bellcrank had some odd geometry compared to the front. The ball end with the servo drag link attached is way to close to the pivot point and the servo has very little leverage so I found my steering tended to flop a bit out back. plus I could only use about 25% of the servo's total throw - really not getting much torque that way. So in a big brain moment, I stretched out the bellcrank with a small piece of aluminum that moves the ball end for the servo link mount out away from that pivot point as much as possible. Ended up pretty easy to do. I lost a bit of steering throw, but it's much more solid at the wheels - the servo has better leverage and now can use almost full rotation. Made all the difference in the world. 

Maybe that might help?

 

As far as the motor, I use a Holmes Crawlmaster 5 pole 20t 550 (on just 2S to save wear and tear.) Low speed resolution is fantastic, and it goes just above walking pace. Very happy with the combo. 

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OldSchoolRC1 makes some good points. I also run 1.9 wheels, Hummer wheels actually, with good crawler tires. The tires should be less than ~4.2 inches in diameter to prevent the rears from touching.

I drive my Dynahead as a crawler so I wrapper zip ties round the servo savers. The rear steering is cumbersome. It is important to not have too much throw or else the bellcrank cams over and locks up.

I had run a silver can in mine for a long time and just put in a Tamiya 35T. Much more cogging now but better drag brake. The silver can did surprisingly well at slow crawling but got fairly hot. I had considered a 550 motor but didn't want it to stick that much farther out the side of the chassis.

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Check you correctly used parts 16 and 17 for the rear arms if using 4WS. They have the single line as opposed to 2 so easy to check see pic 

TVNf9iVl.jpg

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7 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

I love my G6-01, although it's been a while since I drove it.  (Actually it's been a while since I drove anything, I missed the final mow of the season last year and my lawn is too long for anything but Clod-sized tyres).

I don't use rear steering on mine and I don't use portals, mine's just an all-round fun basher.  The only proper mods I fitted are oil shocks, although I think they need a lot of tuning as it handled way better on friction shocks.  Now it seems to want to turn over once the speed gets up, especially on rippled terrain like damp sand where the receding tide has left flow marks.  I have a top-heavy ABS body with lots of reinforcement, which probably doesn't help my handling, and I keep wondering about replacing it with a lexan body.

As for your rear steering problem - could you flip the rear lower arms to position the wheel further back?  You'd probably have to make a new top arm (from threaded rod and rod ends) and it's possible the dogbones wouldn't line up, but it might be worth a try.  You could even modify the lower arms by cutting part of them away, so they can slide further back, then using a shim to make up the space.  Again you'd probably have to make a new top link but the change wouldn't be so extreme and the dogbone would probably be OK.

A friend brought a bone-stock G6-01 non-portal edition with a plastic Bruder truck body to the UK Scale Nationals last October.  The only mods were a half-decent set of crawling tyres.  We thought it would be terrible on the trails but it was actually really good - ground clearance was a problem in places and lack of weight low down meant it relied on wheel speed at times to keep up the momentum, but overall it was a very capable crawler and made it around the courses with no more trouble than my dedicated trail rigs.

Here's mine - I've never been happy with the paint job...

sm_P4030142.md.jpg

Your Ford body looks really mean!  I love it.   I can see your point about the heavy body raising the center of gravity (and that the lexan body would improve performance) but to me, it looks like the performance hit is worth it.  I'd leave it alone.    Interesting observation about the oil shocks making it more likely to roll.  I'm no expert on shock tuning but it sounds like lighter springs and lighter weight oil may be a help here.  Alternatively, can you switch out the valve in the shocks to one that is less restrictive? 

Interesting suggestion about flipping the rear lower arms to gain a little bit of clearance!   I'm absolutely going to take a look at this option.  Thanks! 

1 hour ago, OldSchoolRC1 said:

Very nice!  I had planned to swap over to the Kong body this year as well. My Dyna is due for a refresh. 

The stock wheels have a ton of offset, not surprised that they catch on the center tire.  The portals push everything out and add a ton of scrub radius - combined with the offset on the wheels, they are going to touch. I run 1.9's just for that reason and they clear fine.

I didn't like the rear steer at first, the steering bellcrank had some odd geometry compared to the front. The ball end with the servo drag link attached is way to close to the pivot point and the servo has very little leverage so I found my steering tended to flop a bit out back. plus I could only use about 25% of the servo's total throw - really not getting much torque that way. So in a big brain moment, I stretched out the bellcrank with a small piece of aluminum that moves the ball end for the servo link mount out away from that pivot point as much as possible. Ended up pretty easy to do. I lost a bit of steering throw, but it's much more solid at the wheels - the servo has better leverage and now can use almost full rotation. Made all the difference in the world. 

Maybe that might help?

 

As far as the motor, I use a Holmes Crawlmaster 5 pole 20t 550 (on just 2S to save wear and tear.) Low speed resolution is fantastic, and it goes just above walking pace. Very happy with the combo. 

Your steering mod sounds like a stroke of brilliance.  I'm going to take  look through my scrap bin and see I may have a suitable piece of aluminum (or some other material) to replicate this.   Thanks! 

Great to hear that your Crawlmaster is working out for you!  the "just above walking pace" sounds similar to stock performance...maybe a bit too slow for my preferences!  Holmes seems to be one of the absolute best vendors in our hobby.   I've been thrilled with their motors and their service.   

 

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3 minutes ago, CoolHands said:

Check you correctly used parts 16 and 17 for the rear arms if using 4WS. They have the single line as opposed to 2 so easy to check see pic 

TVNf9iVl.jpg

This is the kind of mistake I tend to make...I'm definitely going to take a look.  :D Thanks! 

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Just love 6 wheels!!! Dynamog is on a Dynahead chassis and the pumpkin is on a Konghead chassis

IMG_0087.jpeg 2A0F9D3E-159C-46BA-ABB0-7DA889750145.jpg

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@Busdriver I absolutely love your trucks, especially the Dynamog - it just looks like it was made for it, but one really can't fault the pumphead either.

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21 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

@Busdriver I absolutely love your trucks, especially the Dynamog - it just looks like it was made for it, but one really can't fault the pumphead either.

They are both very different. The Dynamog is a great trail truck but is limited by a heavy body. It doesn’t side hill hey well. The cab is by Loops( sadly a Covid victim) and is almost like a resin. It will go up some pretty steep slope. The Pumphead is the kind of thing I imagine some Custom Dude produced in the 60’s. It’s got a 10.5t brushless motor and on loose ground is a blast. Can’t wait for some dryer weather to get some rooster tail material on the ground instead of Mud!!

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15 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

They are both very different. The Dynamog is a great trail truck but is limited by a heavy body.

Your Dynamog build is one of the few reasons I think of getting a 6-wheeler some day. I thought it was a lexan cab, something from a CC-01 or similar. If one can "hack" lexan in a similar way as hard plastic - no idea.

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@OoALEJOoO ‘s version is a Tamiya body that he cut up and braced. The biggest issue I find with lexan is sticking it to anything!!!

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5 hours ago, OoALEJOoO said:

Indeed bracing proved to work quite well. Two plastic beams entered the Unimog cabin from its back and were then fastened with two screws each side.

G6-Belly-Skid-8.JPG

Unimog-01.JPG

Unimog-05.JPG.c3b4c017d3be01eba6a26c0fd3f8d80b.JPG

Mode info:

G6-01TR Mercedes Unimog 406 Build

I think this is one of my favourite Tamiyas on the forum. Love it. And @Busdriver's too.

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