Issues still with clodbuster setup with transmitter

[no1trancefan]

After reading on here, i bought a flysky i6 for the clodbuster and ditched the other transmitter i had bought.

I was wondering how i can limit the turn on the servos so they dont extend so far as to hit the chassis. Any advice would be appreciated thanks.

[Twinfan]

You'll need to reduce the end point settings for the steering on your transmitter 

[CoolHands]

I don’t have an flysky but I think this is the adjust you need to do. Skip to about 4 mins and reduce your steering endpoints

 

[TheMidnight Pumpkin]

You might also check these steering limiters on your axles. See attached picture. Stock tires/rims should not hit the suspension if these limiters are in place. 

[no1trancefan]

8 hours ago, TheMidnight Pumpkin said:

You might also check these steering limiters on your axles. See attached picture. Stock tires/rims should not hit the suspension if these limiters are in place. 

i was told somewhere to remove these which i did ah god! lol. I believe this was because with a servo on each end there was literally not enogh movement before hitting the stops

[TheMidnight Pumpkin]

With 4 wheel steering you shouldn’t need to remove the limiters. Full lock to lock steering will turn surprisingly better than expected. I hope I helped. Thanks

[Dakratfink]

With or without limiters on the steering knuckles it would be a good idea to set EPAs ( end point adjustment) for steering if you have servo on axel steering.

[no1trancefan]

I've literally just fnished end points its spot on now thanks, i couldnt work out how to save it origijnally you have to hold cancel

 

thanks for help

[Dakratfink]

1 hour ago, no1trancefan said:

I've literally just fnished end points its spot on now thanks, i couldnt work out how to save it origijnally you have to hold cancel

 

thanks for help

I have a different model Flysky. If I go too long without messing with settings I’m usually able to look up “how to set _____ on Flysky GT3 on YouTube “ 

 

[no1trancefan]

ive got steering now that is very sharp and all 4 wheels move independently. the major problem ive had is trying to avoid knocking the steering when giving it some it moves fast!

[Heavy Duty TLT]

For my Juggernaut I'm using a hacked Flysky FS GT-3C.  I have the rear end point at about 50% and the front less than 100%, to where I have about a millimeter before the bump stops hits.  I have my controller set to where I can have just front steering, 4WS, rear steering only, and crab steering.  

[no1trancefan]

i might have to follow your lead there

[Dakratfink]

On 3/27/2024 at 8:23 AM, Heavy Duty TLT said:

For my Juggernaut I'm using a hacked Flysky FS GT-3C.  I have the rear end point at about 50% and the front less than 100%, to where I have about a millimeter before the bump stops hits.  I have my controller set to where I can have just front steering, 4WS, rear steering only, and crab steering.  

I have the same transmitter. I have heard you can jailbreak/ hack them to unlock more functionality. Was it difficult? 
 

[ad456]

@Dakratfink The hack isn’t too difficult but not quite plug and play. You have to solder 4 header pins to the main board inside the controller and then hook that to a flash tool. That plugs into a computer with usb and you write a firmware to it and then put the controller back together, run through basic calibration and off you go.
It is down to how comfortable you are with that kind of thing and there are a few YouTube videos showing the process and a massive thread about it on the RCCrawler forum.
It’s definitely a game changer for that TX. I’ve been running one for about 7 years now and it’s been a great modification that I’d always recommend. It gives you up to 8ch(depending on Rx of course), 4WS, DIG, mappable buttons, 64 model memory and maybe other things I can’t remember just now. 

[Heavy Duty TLT]

5 hours ago, ad456 said:

@Dakratfink The hack isn’t too difficult but not quite plug and play. You have to solder 4 header pins to the main board inside the controller and then hook that to a flash tool. That plugs into a computer with usb and you write a firmware to it and then put the controller back together, run through basic calibration and off you go.
It is down to how comfortable you are with that kind of thing and there are a few YouTube videos showing the process and a massive thread about it on the RCCrawler forum.
It’s definitely a game changer for that TX. I’ve been running one for about 7 years now and it’s been a great modification that I’d always recommend. It gives you up to 8ch(depending on Rx of course), 4WS, DIG, mappable buttons, 64 model memory and maybe other things I can’t remember just now. 

I didn't have to solder the pins, I just bent them alternating the direction and it held.  Then I hacked it.  I got the Xmitter and RCVR for less than $40 USD from AliX, and the ST Link V2 programmer from Ebay for less than $8 USD, I probably could have found one from AliX for cheaper.  All in all less than $50 for an 8CH radio, well probably a little more if you want the ful 8CH function, because mine only came with the 3CH RCVR, but that's all I need for now, until I put lights and such.

[ad456]

And with various Rx being around £8 it’s dead cheap to kit out a fleet. I’m onto around 20 models now. Some 3ch, 6ch and one 8ch. 
 

@Heavy Duty TLT I did consider not soldering as you can get away with it but I wasn’t confident in it holding for me. Good to know it can work that way as not everyone can or has the stuff to solder them up. 

[Heavy Duty TLT]

On 4/2/2024 at 9:30 AM, ad456 said:

And with various Rx being around £8 it’s dead cheap to kit out a fleet. I’m onto around 20 models now. Some 3ch, 6ch and one 8ch. 
 

@Heavy Duty TLT I did consider not soldering as you can get away with it but I wasn’t confident in it holding for me. Good to know it can work that way as not everyone can or has the stuff to solder them up. 

I'm glad to share that information.

I want each of my trucks to have their own radio, so I might buy another one for my Clodbuster...  

[OgNewb]

Move the mounting point of the linkage closer to the pivot point. Hole closer to the center of the arm.