Thread lock yes or no

[JonoC]

Hi all, my Tamiya build book says threadlock not needed anywhere, on Clodbuster, this would include alloy pinion as supplied, what do you recon? 

[toyolien]

I use threadlock anytime something screws into metal. And having lost a race at the first corner when the pinion grub screw loosened, I always threadlock those too.

[Juggular]

If you have threadlock, I'd use it.  I suppose Tamiya figures that aluminum pinion is malleable enough that it'd be squished in by the steel grub screw.  Or if they included aluminum grubs, the same material would bind.  But motors run as fast as 20,000 rpm... and it's a high vibration environment.  I'd say threadlocking is a good idea.  

 

[JonoC]

Thanks

[Mad Ax]

A point to note is that threadlock is damaging to Tamiya plastics, so try not to get any on the plastic and wipe it off if it gets on there.  There have been photos on here of plastics degrading over time where small amounts of threadlock got in around the screws.

[JonoC]

Yes it does mention that in the build instructions, and thinners, 

[Gebbly]

11 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

threadlock is damaging to Tamiya plastics

Ooh good tip thanks @Mad Ax I hadnt seen that mentioned in the instructions.

Is thread lock a permanent thing like modelling cement or is it easy enough to break the grip if parts need to be dismantled?

[Mad Ax]

16 minutes ago, Gebbly said:

Is thread lock a permanent thing like modelling cement or is it easy enough to break the grip if parts need to be dismantled?

It's semi-permanent, so it can be broken.  Best to have a good set of drivers to avoid damage, though.  Don't use automotive 'red' threadlock as this is way too strong for Tamiya screws.  In my experience the Tamiya red and blue threadlocks are similar in strength and don't prevent you getting the screws out.

[BuggyDad]

2 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

It's semi-permanent, so it can be broken.  Best to have a good set of drivers to avoid damage, though.  Don't use automotive 'red' threadlock as this is way too strong for Tamiya screws.  In my experience the Tamiya red and blue threadlocks are similar in strength and don't prevent you getting the screws out.

My loctite 243 is OK to break, although I have had the odd occasion where it's taken quite a lot of force to undo. I use it but I do think twice in spots where tool access isn't good. I suppose it's overkill for most RC applications really. 

Thinking about it, a weaker threadlock would be nice. Has anyone tried Loctite 222?

I wonder how the tamiya stuff compares to the various loctites in strength. 

[Juggular]

4 hours ago, BuggyDad said:

I wonder how the tamiya stuff compares to the various loctites in strength. 

I seem to remember having trouble undoing Tamiya blue.  I had used an old tube which had thickened like shoe glue.  I used on a locking nut on metal frame chassis.  I had a heck of time undoing it.  I thought I was about to break the bolt.  I suppose the strength also depends on how viscous it is at the time of applying it.  When it's watery it wasn't that strong.  But the point is that thickened Tamiya could be really tough.  I doubt that Permatex blue I've used for the past several years could be that strong (breakaway at 115inch/pound). Instead of turning into thick strong glue, Permatex becomes crusty. If you can't use it, you can't glue it.  

I got a gigantic bottle of Chinese 222 (50ml, as opposed to 5ml).  The genuine Loctite 222's max strength is supposed to have break strength of 62 inch/pound. Loctite 243 is supposed to have break strength of 180 inch.  If the Chinese 222 should be similar to Loctite 222, it's weaker than Permatex blue. But I haven't tried this 222 yet.  

Fresh Tamiya blue feels similar to Permatex blue.  Based on that, I think it falls between Loctite 222 and 243 (maybe close to 242, which requires about 110inch/pound break torque). But when Tamiya thickens, it might be stronger than 243. Perhaps that's why Tamiya came up with the red gel that does not thicken as easily?