Wtcc5s RC10T

[wtcc5 5948]

The first of two trucks arrived today. As a longtime T2 owner, R/C stadium trucks are just my thing. So I really hoped AE would bring this truck after the buggy. Luckily they did.

All the other trucks were surprised and curious what came in that box:
 

 

Lets do a light unboxing:

 

This time a printed manual is part of the kit. I loved to find the flourescent color stickers in the box:

 

These led to flashbacks of my first T2 body design from ‘96. Just a one color wonder (white) with these stickers on it 

[wtcc5 5948]

Build start 

 

Bag A is already tasty with the front axle parts. Compared to the 40th RC10, the front arms now also are made from the green-white plastic:

 

Front hubs:

 

Front tower and arm mount:

 

Now to the steering. The white plastic is very brittle. I instantly got painful flashbacks from my teenage RC10T2 build when I broke the steering arm while putting on the steering link. The I had to wait 2 or 3 months for a spare   I don't know if this plastic is up to the task on the racetrack.

 

The white ballcups are the same as on the 40ths: no fun at all. I generously widened the thread bore, used grease and still I had to use pliers to turn them onto the turnbuckle...

 

Last steps for the front. Kick-up-plate supports and body mounts:

 

Bumper plate:

[wtcc5 5948]

We will work our way towards the rear end of the chassis now.

Directly behind the steering, the servo has its place. On my truck a blank spot for now as I have no vintage servo left. By the way: The flat head screws sometimes are not threaded close enough near the head. This will lead to a loose part even though the screw is tight already. If that happens, chamfer the threadbore of the plastic part a bit with a cutter or scalpel 

Servo mounts added:

 

Battery mount and antenna mount:

 

As soon as I knew this rere would come, I ordered a bearing set. Bushings are one my most hated products in this hobby. In the manual it says to use 1/4x3/8 bushings. I tried bearings that size and they didn't fit. The 3/16x3/8x1/8 bearings fit fine though. I have no experience with the inch hardware, but that could be an error in the manual.

Rear hub carrier and arm installation :

 

Another typo in the manual comes in the "rear end build - step 3" where it says RC10 bulkhead clear. I am glad that this isn't true. The clear version plastic is not nice to build is what I heard.

The white plastic is fine though:

 

Rear shock tower and body mounts are on next:

 

The car build is very nice and incredibly fast to do. Here a quick overview of the achievement so far:

 

I have to be honest: The Truck build is much more emotional for me, now that the long arms are attached front and rear. And somehow I pray for AE to bring the (standard) large classic front wheels and tires. In my eyes they look so much better.

 

[wtcc5 5948]

Now to the shock damper build. One of the criticisms this rerelease received regards the color of the shock bodies, which is not historically correct. The build itself is simple and straight forward:

I would have thought, that the fronts need more internal shims, but they get none according to the manual.

 

Installed on the chassis, I have to admit, that the gold color doesn't give me the nostalgic truck feeling:

 

Now to the gearbox, the tasty part of this build and a chapter, that I admired first when I build the RC10T2 decades ago. The whole unit is so compact, efficient and small.

 

The felt gasket is already damaged out of the box on the smaller outside cutouts. It won't hurt its function I guess, but still not so nice.

 

Slipper parts:

 

Installed:

 

Overall I am not impressed with the quality of spur and gears. My spur is wobbly and the internal gears have one timing where they get lightly stuck. So a manual correction is needed to make the movement smooth. 

[wtcc5 5948]

I let you guys down for a while. Work is pretty exhausting at the moment, I found no strength to spend even more time in front of a monitor.

But now, lets continue. Motor is next:

 

Same as in my RC10 buggy.

 

Sealed gears:

 

The wheels are three piece:

Installed like this, they are pretty strong and heavy. Compared to the ProLine range of tires, these are bullet prove thick rubber.

Unfortunately, two screws for the front wheels were missing in my box. Therefore I have two super long screws left... I wonder if I made a mistake, the manual is wrong or AE just made a packaging error...

 

I mean, yes the narrow front tires are cool, but I like the later fat ones more for a truck. A shame, that AE didn't have the courage to put both versions in the kit

 

Final stage coming. Prepared the body:

 

 

 

 

[wtcc5 5948]

Livery reveal 

 

So glossy without protective film:

... aaaand with stickers:

I couldn't wait and had to put both reres together, even though the truck still lacks minor finishing touches:

These were white stripes on the windows and I made the famous REEDY sticker from white vinyl for the rear wing:

[Anthroxoid 190]

It’s looking fantastic. That’s awfully str ange that they couldn’t get their Stealth tranny accurately molded. Ipsounds like a revision needed ASAP for the less technically inclined builders out there as modding a gear race or three isn’t easy IMHO.
 

Can’t wait to see your color scheme. This thing is going to just fly over everything with the rest of your family there. Very cool and thanks for the informative build log. 
 

—XOID

edit:: wow! Looks fantastic. Nice touch with the REEDY decal! Brilliant. 

[guggles 340]

Awesome truck so far, I wonder if your going to drive this one? 

Also the rc10 worlds had the rough problems with the stealth, if I remember correctly the top shafts were pretty rough and would bind. I think i got mine to work by polishing the gears with a cotton wheel but dont hold me to that. Then associated shipped out everyone new topshafts that worked better. 

It could just need a little running in if its a bit tight, and the spur wobbling are you sure all the spacers are there and the slipper is built correctly? Maybe try adding a shim or two on the top shaft and see if it helps.