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Scorchio

Vintage Red/Yellow SS Resto, Prototype / Early Ad Car

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Summer is here, and so we go with this year's project. Last year's Knights Customs Manx is finished, will update soon.

I got this original SS "complete" body shell over the winter, its in great condition with no gravel rash on gutters, but paint job was messed up/wrong. Thankfully it's Red/Yellow, so I won't be stripping it just 1200 wet & dry then 1500 and straight in with paint. I'll be airbrushing this one so taking a slightly different approach to how it's sprayed. Not using primer as it's a shelf queen.

I'm "decanting" paint from Tamiya rattle cans (as I already have a load) and will hit it without thinners or flow improver through a 0.35 nozzle (yes I've practiced).

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It does have problems with dimples under window mounts, and just to the right of the rear grille is what looks like a melted bit that needs filling.

 

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I've started left side sanding with 1200 and it looks to me like theres only 1 coat of yellow and 1 coat of red, which is a huge relief.

Heres what I'm heading for...

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So I'm learning stuff about this body shell. It has in the past been in a bucket of brake fluid, not a problem as most have. The original paint was metallic brown where the yellow now is, the brake fluid barely touched it but completely eradicated what was under red. In the interest of late 70s taste I'm hoping that colour was either orange or gold.

So...

Allover 1200 grit done, the sunroof was glued in with polystyrene cement so on sides it's seeped & melted, filling the sunroof shut line so Ive had to file it back in. Obviously I slipped and put a gauge through the roof, as is my way. So I've filled the melted bit and dimples over window mounts plus the lovely new deep scratch I've lovingly added. Most time spent clearing out shut lines and clearing out vent slots under rear window.

Next up sand filler when dry then 1500 grit allover and I may go 2000 depending on how 1500 looks. I have to keep reminding myself to sand for finish and not patina.

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Now it's all sanded, I've decided I'm going to give it a primer coat. Too much colour variation, red yellow brown grey & white, I don't want to end up with mustardy patches so better safe than sorry..

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Yes, my model building has taught me that if the paint or even primer is burned though then it will show up under the color. Thats a lot of surface area to cover with a .35 needle, I have trouble keeping a wet edge on a 24th scale body, maybe add some extra retarder to make the paint more forgiving? Then of course it needs more time to dry and maybe thinner coats. Do what I say and always test before committing. Now I say that and still just go nuts anyways. Gotta live a little.

What are you going to do for clear?  Decals under?

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Thanks guggles, that all makes sense. I'm using an Iwata eclipse so get pretty good cover at full trigger, but have a test plastic pice so may have to throw in some flow improver. I'm thinking final wet coat going across the shell to reduce spray length.

Not sure about clear coat yet, will wait and see but most likely will go under if I do. My Blue/White scorcher is not coated so would like them to look of the same ilk.

Now shot with 2 primer coats and awaiting light 2000 wet sand. Now its all one colour I'm quite amazed at the great condition of this shell!

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Today = Scorchio............Nil points.

Don't store decanted Tamiya rattle can paint in doser bottles, one twist of that little cap and it goes off like a champagne bottle, behold the bloodbath and nose cone ruined. Something remains in the paint and fizzes like a fizzy drink when agitated.

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"Thats a lot of surface area to cover with a .35 needle" (guggles. 2024 see above).

Absolutely correct sir! I was spraying from so far back and adding so much flow improver (retarder) and barely staining the primer. I gave up, and reached for the unbranded Chinese 0.5 suction feed airbrush that came with my compressor (worst move ever). Made my pressure adjustment on test piece, much better! Then not a few seconds in it turns into a machine gun, clear tip dry, and its fine, then boom! it just blasted blobs everywhere. It's now in the bin.

I now have the finish of a supermarket car park diorama.

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So.........

Rattle cans looking very much like my future right now (after some more sanding, I'll spare you progress shots of that), not paying out for another needle and nozzle for the Iwata as they only go up to 0.4 for my model, and not buying another airbrush.

I'll still airbrush driver and parts with acrylics I'm more used to spraying.

 

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Quick update, sanded back and further than I did originally. one coat of primer on and looking good. One more coat and I'll be back to where I was on Tuesday morning!

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Not an original body but has the decal scheme you are going for.  MCI decals 

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On 8/9/2024 at 6:27 PM, impynyc said:

"Not an original body but has the decal scheme you are going for.  MCI decals"

Looks great! and looks like you've nailed the paint job!

I ended up going back further than I did last time with the sanding, but much better now.

I must confess a schoolboy error here, It wasn't till I cleared my bench I realised the yellow I had was "PS-16" not "TS-16" (Polycarbonate paint) No wonder it wasn't going down as expected & most embarrassing, no idea how i ended up with that, bought it years ago.

Anyway back on track now with Yellow rattle canned & nosecone airbrushed. I put a couple of coats of yellow underneath on nosecone so it matches body. I will be airbrushing the red on the body, seeing as I have so much paint in a doser bottle which has stopped fizzing now.

 

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At last! Final yellow coat on, really happy with resultIMG_8234.thumb.jpg.aa1160adb93a3cbc3ebe6a5b056d7e0d.jpg

Also this is how Molotow Chrome Pens look when you empty them into an airbrush, no thinners or flow improver just straight through the brush.

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I never understood why wipers and exhaust were never on the chrome sprue.

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Wow that looks awesome! Id be happy with that. Airbrushing can sure be frustrating but it makes it all the more satisfying when you figure it out! Ive used alclad chrome before and was underwhelmed, maybe ill have to give the molotow a go. especially if it gets durable enough to touch in time. 

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4 hours ago, guggles said:

Wow that looks awesome! Id be happy with that. Airbrushing can sure be frustrating but it makes it all the more satisfying when you figure it out! Ive used alclad chrome before and was underwhelmed, maybe ill have to give the molotow a go. especially if it gets durable enough to touch in time. 

Sadly Molotow never dries to durability, I've had it on my SRB Manx for a year now and it dulls when touched. Clear coat results vary, and it will dull a bit so I'm going to try E-7 Color 5-02 chrome sealer on this, if that looks bad I'll have to splash out on the Alclad ALC-310 which is pretty hard to find in UK.

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So, E-7 Color 5-02 chrome sealer brings up the Molotow as dulled Aluminium. Going to re chrome, ordered Alclad II ALC-310 from the states with cheap postage so it should be here early September. Molotow should be very dry by then. Going to try 50/50 isopropanol mix I've seen used online.

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BTW. This is a ReRe exhaust and wipers I'm testing this on. I have originals but cant find the stinger pipe anywhere. An age old problem I understand ;)

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so is the alclad you ordered a chrome or a clear?

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13 hours ago, guggles said:

so is the alclad you ordered a chrome or a clear?

Its clear, its a long wait for it, but so many clear coat brands destroy liquid chrome.

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Ok well I am curious to see how it performs.

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A most productive Sunday afternoon!

HERE WE GO!!!!!

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Masking done by lunchtime. Bajan Baja?

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Yellow pre coat to seal up mask.

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3 red coats excluding first dust over coat.

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Mask off, so gratifying.

A couple of small leaks behind front wheel arches and around door hinges but nothing that cant be fixed. Oh and left a mark on the bonnet (hood) from over pressing mask with finger nail, again fixable.

Leaving for a long dry now.

Does anybody have any tips for removing Tamiya masking tape sticky residue? I have a few very sticky spots.

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While body drying I've restored the number / licence plates.

Had to repair front one as someone has previously prized it from a body shell (not my one) and left a chunk of it behind. Filled with epoxy putty and filed then sanded. Thankfully more missing from rear than front.

Then blocked the yellow letters out, then on with blue and wipe away excess from letters with fine cotton but & solvent.

Leave to dry for at least 24 hours. Then 1200 wet and dry rub down over a spatular blade. Then final yellow touches to balance / fix letters.

Harder on rear plate as its been heated and curved a bit which meant a couple of bits got over rubbed.

Finally photo copy ReRe decals, and cut out October and CA 10 stickers for front plate.

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Found a pic of the plate with a chunk out of it from the listing.

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Now sanded out masking bleeds on the sides and straightened out a couple of "wonky" mask lines with a coat of yellow from the airbrush.

Now I have this "de gassing" of the paint before airbrushing sorted, it really flows well without any thinning.

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That looks great! I have a blitzer shell that needs similar work doing... Looking for inspiration!

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On 8/17/2024 at 6:04 PM, guggles said:

Ok well I am curious to see how it performs.

At last! The Alclad lacquer is the one to use with Molotow Chrome, to be precise.......

Alclad II Lacquer - Gloss Klear Kote ALC-310.

I just noticed theres a British flag on the label, so why cant I buy it in the UK?

Also theres a warning on the label that says "This product contains chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer birth defects or other reproductive harm" Thankfully I live in the UK, but won't be drinking it. Full on double filter mask for spraying this devil juice.

The are a couple of lower misty bits where I've under sprayed, but looks great from the angle you see when its on the car.

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On 8/17/2024 at 6:04 PM, guggles said:

Ok well I am curious to see how it performs.

My personal thoughts are, its expensive, quite volatile and generally a bit of a pain, long drying times, but I quite like it and will be perhaps more selective about what I use it on in future.

Just realised theres 20 years between these 2 builds :wacko:

 

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Great result!

I wonder if it really is a lacquer or if it is a urethane or enamel or maybe even a water base?

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On 8/29/2024 at 4:53 AM, guggles said:

Great result!

I wonder if it really is a lacquer or if it is a urethane or enamel or maybe even a water base?

No idea to be honest, not too big on chemistry myself, but bottle says it contains "Mineral Spirits & Alcohol Solvents" so we could probably rule out water based.

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