Toyota Yaris Rally Gazoo

[BackITG 34]

On 10/3/2024 at 2:33 PM, alvinlwh said:

Take a look at these. I pimped up my 01 with their parts and quite like it. They are cheap enough to not matter so much of you do not like them. 

https://www.asiatees.com/model?&pid=1&company=Team Raffee Co.&brand=Tamiya&model=TT-02&page=model

 

Oh that's a nice shop, so cheap you can't ignore it

[Hypoxic 395]

Unfortunately for me, French import taxes outweigh the purchase.

[Hypoxic 395]

I applied some Kapton tape to the motor support in order to seal the joint better. Others say add AW grease, but I don’t want to collect dust here.

[Hypoxic 395]

I added 9mm worth of shims (3 = 5x3mm)  here (in the front end) to lessen the slop in the prop shaft. For me that leaves about 2mm of play, which is acceptable for my application.

Hot Glue:

 

[Hypoxic 395]

Hot glue puts the Center of Gravity (COG) at just about 50%, minus the rear end.

[Hypoxic 395]

Step 18

 

[Hypoxic 395]

Objects tend to pivot around their center of gravity. I’m shooting for 50% +/-

[Hypoxic 395]

Ohhhhhh… Wait a second. What is this? I’m wondering if that isn’t a COG mark. It’s REALLY close to what I weigh. Game changer!!

 

[Hypoxic 395]

My build is now oriented around this mark.

[skom25 2210]

3 hours ago, Hypoxic said:

I applied some Kapton tape to the motor support in order to seal the joint better. Others say add AW grease, but I don’t want to collect dust here.

Use steel Pinion. Aluminium is rather bad. I used it once and will not do this again.

1 hour ago, Hypoxic said:

Ohhhhhh… Wait a second. What is this? I’m wondering if that isn’t a COG mark. It’s REALLY close to what I weigh. Game changer!!

?

[Hypoxic 395]

Some say the aluminium pinion isn’t all that bad after all when running Torque Tuned. Otherwise, please provide the part number for a steel pinion.

[Hypoxic 395]

« ? »

Research Center of Gravity in terms of auto and aviation. Objects pivot about their center of gravity.

[skom25 2210]

3 minutes ago, Hypoxic said:

Some say the aluminium pinion isn’t all that bad after all when running Torque Tuned. Otherwise, please provide the part number for a steel pinion.

I used it for around two months with TT motor. It wears fast and makes a lot of mess.

3 minutes ago, Hypoxic said:

« ? »

Research Center of Gravity in terms of auto and aviation.

This point on chassis is definitely not a COG mark and some glue around steering have not changed almost anything.

Motor and battery are heaviest parts of chassis. Above you have huge body, so definitely that glue will not affect anything.

[Hypoxic 395]

Building accordingly.

At the end of the day, it’s a plastic toy that bounces around my property and smashes into trees and fences and has nothing in comparison to my Nissan X-Trail 2.2 DCi that I just rebuilt. It’s a toy. Period. I can buy 30+ of these things for the same price as my rebuilt engine minus the turbo.

Maybe I shouldn’t take it so seriously.

[skom25 2210]

I really do not understand what do you mean.

[Hypoxic 395]

No worries. I’m just trying to have fun and I’ll look into a steel pinion.

[Pylon80 3757]

@Hypoxic the CG is often called "weight bias" in the RC world and expressed as 50/50 or "60/40 front bias" for example. In aviation it's simply called CG indeed.

It has a large impact on handing! As you probably know the XV-01 is one of the sweetest handling rally cars and notoriously has 60/40 front bias. The TT-02 is typically rear biased which is a bit annoying for rallying so it's a good idea to aim at least for 50/50 as you are doing 👍

I'm currently (re-)building very slowly a TT-02 rally car and I'll have a shorty pack all the way forward, a very light stock diff at the back, no bumper at the back (lol... Tamiya...) and the ESC mounted on the front bumper with long wires. Also a bit of ballast on the front bumper to get the lateral CG centered. That yielded 55/45 front bias last time. I'll weight everything when I'm done (in 6 months, lol!) and see what I get this time around.

[alvinlwh 7251]

1 hour ago, Hypoxic said:

No worries. I’m just trying to have fun 

It is good to see someone having fun and yet know about the technical aspect instead of worrying about insignificant stuff. 

[Hypoxic 395]

On 10/4/2024 at 10:17 PM, skom25 said:

Hmm, they are probably heavier, more expensive and do not provide any advantage over standard plastic parts. They also will wear faster. I am not sure if it was good choice.

Have you bought Ball Bearings?

You were right, they were junk after all and I sent them back for refund; the shafts wouldn’t accept the bearings. The tolerances were off and the bearings would jam on the shafts. I figured that a UK company called Precision Geek would have been more precise. 

[Hypoxic 395]

My apologies to the world, I feel bad. I’ve been coming off all of my pain and miscellaneous medications from my shoulder surgery and see now that a few of my posts have been a bit rash. Forgive me for that. Things are getting better and cleaner for me from here on out. I’ve just recently apologised to my friends and family as well.

[skom25 2210]

No worries. All of us had worse days.

Try to use stock parts or if money is not a huge issue, try metal from Tamiya. However, I think plastic parts will be totally fine for you.

You can easily modify rear uprights, to have much more suspension movement. Stock version is very limited in that terms.

[Hypoxic 395]

For the front end top A-Arms, I had to add shims to remove excessive fore/aft play. I added nothing to the Right-side and 4mm to the Left-side, which brings the overall play to about 1mm+/- per side retaining free/smooth actuation. Acceptable.

For the rear top A-Arms: 5mm Right and 3mm Left with 1mm+/- per side with no binding. The A-Arms are still free/smooth, no binding.

 

 

 

[Hypoxic 395]

On 10/2/2024 at 6:59 PM, Kowalski86 said:

If anything that YR kit is more detrimental to performance than anything else. If I were to make a TT02 into a rally car, I'd grab the following:

1. Metal dogbones/cups for the back, universals up front. Combine this with the taller CVA eyelets and some trimming and you'll gain more ground clearance.

<snip>

Now I understand why you said this. There is less suspension travel in the rear-end than in the front-end.

[Hypoxic 395]

Changed for a metal gear.

[skom25 2210]

3 hours ago, Hypoxic said:

For the front end top A-Arms, I had to add shims to remove excessive fore/aft play. I added nothing to the Right-side and 4mm to the Left-side, which brings the overall play to about 1mm+/- per side retaining free/smooth actuation. Acceptable.

For the rear top A-Arms: 5mm Right and 3mm Left with 1mm+/- per side with no binding. The A-Arms are still free/smooth, no binding.

 

 

 

There is other method. Install shock tower and then unscrew that part with two screws on top. There is some space for adjustment, to have the same amount of play on both sides.

59 minutes ago, Hypoxic said:

Changed for a metal gear.

Good choice.