Special Project - Codename EF209 - 1/12 Pan Car

[Gratuit 264]

1 hour ago, silvertriple said:

Should I consider a printed version of the chassis plate next?

Wouldn't it be to heavy if you have to get some rigidity? But I like your project, it gives me lots of ideas

[silvertriple 4258]

15 minutes ago, Gratuit said:

Wouldn't it be to heavy if you have to get some rigidity? But I like your project, it gives me lots of ideas

Originally, this was fully intended in Vintage spirit... Which means no bath tub. Implementing 3d printing for the chassis plate, means adding sides to it to give a bit of rigidity, and it means bath tub... So, I'm not really sure this is the right idea...

That said, I'd like to make it possible to any one to build a chassis like this one without too much cost. Cutting a part using CNC or laser cut in a fablab is relatively quick and easy, but it means knowing where to go. While 3D printing is just so easy when you have a printer... I need to think more about this. Anycase, the chassis in G10, cut as per my requirements is already available at Factory Works (search for Silver Triple on their website)... Adding a 3D printed one would just be another option...

[silvertriple 4258]

I needed a statement color for the next step of this project, which will turn in my first very own design... Bright orange will go nicely with a black Kydex chassis

The nut in the deep area of the upright is used to control the centering of the screw. The fit is tight, and a gentle push is required to put in place

The rest is quite easy... I do not mount yet the pivot balls for the steering rods : this has to be sourced using regular hardware. 2mm rods and small pivot balls are far enough for the weight of the car. Here with the first version of the rear shaft.. While building this chassis, with a different servo than the one used initially to model the right hole position, I noticed another hole was required. I changed the design to put a slot on the right side, and highlighted Jeff from Factory Works so he can take the updated file in case one want a G10 chassis...

The rear shaft was revised and rely now on a 160mm M3 rod (shorter would be too short - this is very tight fit - you need to be sure about the supported faces tolerance, if not a 161mm rod will be required) and few M3 nylstop (nylon nuts). The fact there is two of them enclosed is making sure you can tight the nut outside of the shaft without it moving inside the printed shaft.

Once the shaft is in place, the left wheel driver gets fixed on the left side by another M3 nut

Last the diff take place on the right side, and the nut is at the very end of the rod. I had to move the rod by around half millimeter so it fits perfectly...

And for sure the bright orange goes very well with the black kydex chassis...

I'll have to print rims and tires for this chassis, and the parts are going to be published soon...

[yogi-bear 2809]

thats a nice distinctive colour! The prints look good too, I've been trying PETG printing lately, but it has been a bit hit and miss. Some parts were very nice, but I am getting some stringing in some areas, whereas all your prints look good.

[silvertriple 4258]

53 minutes ago, yogi-bear said:

thats a nice distinctive colour! The prints look good too, I've been trying PETG printing lately, but it has been a bit hit and miss. Some parts were very nice, but I am getting some stringing in some areas, whereas all your prints look good.

I had PETG stringing at the time I was using the Creality Ender 5 Plus, with the filament roll in the air. It never happened when I started to dry PETG before using it. And with the X1C I mainly use for PETG, the filament rolls are inside the AMS with plenty of dessicant. I would suggest to dry the filament. I would also suggest to disable first layer check on X1C : the PETG has two difficulties with that : it oozes a bit until the nozzle reaches lower temperarture, and it tends to stick to the nozzle, which can turn into nightmare as it is dragged over the print when the print restarts...

[yogi-bear 2809]

yeah, I might need to dry the filament more, plus at the moment I am needing to change the desiccant about every 3 weeks top. I try disabling the first layer check, hadn't thought of that.

[silvertriple 4258]

It's more work than most people imagine to organize files in a proper way before a pulication...

Specially considering that it was required to do something so it is easy to build (or at least not too complex - not everyone is a puzzle world champion :-) ). I ony show some of the pages here (everything is on the final publication in one single pdf).

I also have a second chassis to complete now (kydex 3mm based this time) :-)

The files are live for the chassis part already and can be found here : 
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1086493

Another publication will follow within the week for the body mounts, bumper, and bodyshell accessories as they are really specific to the bodyshell...
 

[silvertriple 4258]

After the chassis, it is time to work out the bodyshell accessories...

And there is a lot of screws...

(and that is just the first one, I have other bodyshell to accessorize...)

[silvertriple 4258]

And I just published the accessories set for the bodyshell (BL2909 Turismo WSC par Sabula tech).
https://makerworld.com/en/models/1098301

I have other plans for the bodyshell as well...
Teaser :

[silvertriple 4258]

While I still have to deal with the foam tires, this morning the weather was good enough, so I took some time to paint the bodyshell
And yes, it won't be a Ferrari, but something else  (thanks @yogi-bear for the stickers :-) )

[silvertriple 4258]

The work is not over, yet : I still need to take care of the driver and the mirrors... And as well, finish the electronics installation (not yet done on this chassis).

[silvertriple 4258]

1/12 driver is so small... I decided to cheat as I did not want to paint the face... The body is a Hunter driver body scaled 80% and the the helmet is the one I did for the Super Wheelie, scaled smaller than 80%... Not sure how much I scale it down, but it is small.

The driver is in the car now...

[silvertriple 4258]

As mentioned earlier, I have many plans for this chassis in terms of bodyshell...
And by the way, if you build one chassis for you, and work out a bodyshell adaptation you are putting on makerworld, let me know so I can add a link into the dedicated pancar 1/12 collection

I started to work on the Ferrari 312 bodyshell... This one may be red :).
As we are dealing with endurance cars, lights is a must, and some 312 had central additional lights, so I plan for it (not sure if I'll use them or not, but it will be possible).

The rear bodymount is a variation of the one I made for the 333 bodyshell...

I printed those in TPU.

I still need to work out the rear end, as I'm not sully happy with this...

Once the parts under the bodyshell are done, I'll work out what is on top of it...

[silvertriple 4258]

I spend some time over the week-end to work on this bodyshell... It's not perfect yet and still requires some minor improvements... I finished the part under the bodyshell...

As last time, I printed something to help the arch cut at the rear (on the front it is not needed on this Sabula Tech bodyshell)

And once this was done, I made a mirror and a roll bar...

It still requires a bit of work with some adjustments here and there, but we are getting there...

Soon it will be time to deal with the next bodyshell (teaser : Porsche 917K)

[silvertriple 4258]

I need to finish the 312 bodyshell, and the weather was perfect for a paintjob...

Yes, it is red... It's not going to be a Ferrari, though... The Yellow on the driver jacket is a a key indication, the other car another one :-)

[silvertriple 4258]

It's red... but not a Ferrari... It's a Leader, as there is no Vaillante on a track without a Leader :-)

I'll make the files available for the bodyshell accessories very soon on Makerworld... And it will be time to take care of the next one...

[silvertriple 4258]

One of the guys on the french formu rc-vintage proposed me to do some foam tires. They came in donuts os 10mm thickness to assemble on the rims.

I now have a set of foam tires. they are at an undefined shore higher than the Fantom tires, and I'm eager to try them on the track during Montluçonnaise...

[silvertriple 4258]

The Montluçonnaise is taking place in one week from now. It's time for the last bit of preparation. The event is on 4 days, and on the road track, there is light in the evening which allows for night running time... Which means that to have it realistic, we need lights on the car...

That was the plan from the beginning.

Lights is a nice way to finish a car :-)

[silvertriple 4258]

The Montluçonnaise is nos in less than 4 days. I decided yesterday there will be one car built on the track during the event... I did print a full set of part, and tires will be delivered onsite during the event.
And I rushed the design of the bodyshell supports for a Porsche 917K by Delta Plastik (available at Mantua Models).

I'm still not happy with the rear end, I need to rework it. But the general idea is there, and the position of the lights at the front is trying to mimic the caracteristic light positions of the 917...

[silvertriple 4258]

The Vaillante won the 1/12 race, although I suspect the organizer got this framed looking at the first curve events :-)

The car handles great, and both configuration were running great, as long as we have the right tires (Kyosho Fantom wheels with the center hole redrilled to the right diameter is the right solution).

I will publish a video later with the other configuration, but here is the Vaillante driven by TravelinTravis from rc10talk

 

[silvertriple 4258]

On the sunday, there was less people, and most of the guys of the club wanted to try the pancar. This gave me the opportunity to gather reliability data with a quite intensive stress test...

The car ran for about one hour and a half with a few pilot. One of the guys changed the diff settings after playing with the radio settings... And the car got an even better handling with a diff set hard... I suspect that would not be suitable for all the tracks, but here, and within those conditions, it turned perfect. The Kydex chassis flex seems to behave slightly differently as well from the G10 chassis. I will need more testing time at some point... The key thing is that the PETG diff, to my surprise, did not fail. The car is light, and that is certainly contributing, as well as the 100% infill which reduce the risk of distortion due to the temperature, although the diff tooth are small 48dp).

I still have the third one to build, with the 917 chassis, and fortunately, one of the guys built the chassis (again as an experience to gather feedback) : the feedback was positive, and the chassis should be ready for next vintage event...

[JimBear 1475]

Just asking - I assume trying to build one of these would be pretty expensive without a 3D printer at home (ordering the pieces)?

[silvertriple 4258]

2 hours ago, JimBear said:

Just asking - I assume trying to build one of these would be pretty expensive without a 3D printer at home (ordering the pieces)?

well... I'm assuming printing a set of parts would probably cost online about the price of a very capable printer such as a Bambu Lab A1 mini (without AMS lite - about 200 bucks), based on a recent experience from a friend who tried to price a lunchbox junior rc transformation. When discussing with him, that basically what decided him to jump and buy an A1 mini.

Now, if you have a fablab near you, you may contact them and them may be able to help to cut a chassis plate or to print the parts you need.

That being said, I designed the car with ease of print in mind, basically to help any one who would start printing with this... In terms of material, this is not much (you may rely on a single roll of PETG for the whole set of printed part - colors are really optional, and it is even not consuming a lot of that roll of filament - about 150 gr of filament). And 3D printing is way more easier than what it was a few years ago...

And I tend to forgot that the chassis plate is not printed (although the STL is available), I made the kydex chassis at my local fablab, and the cost of the cut was very minimal, to be added to the kydex sheets. What cost the most on the 2 cars are the bodyshells, the G10 chassis plate cut by Factory works on the Vaillante and the set of wheels (Kyosho Fantom) as I did not found better solution yet...

[JimBear 1475]

Thanks, @silvertriple. It gives me an idea of what to expect. Would it be possible/meaningful to cut the chassis plate oneself? 

[silvertriple 4258]

8 minutes ago, JimBear said:

Thanks, @silvertriple. It gives me an idea of what to expect. Would it be possible/meaningful to cut the chassis plate oneself? 

There is a DXF file on Makerworld for this, within the files I provided. I got my Kydex chassis cut at the local fablab, and one friend told me he was going to cut one in a nylon piece with a scroll saw, like they were doing within the old good times for prototype... Somehow, I'm way more advanced that what it was in the vintage old good times... So, yes, anything is possible as long as you know what you want to do... And in anycase, the G10 chassis plate is available via Factory Works as well : Silver Triple 1/12 Pancar chassis - Codename EF-209