A couple super clod buster questions

[MadAtComputer]

Plans have changed and I find myself planing to order a super clod buster kit. I'm trying keep my collection small(wish me luck lol) and monster trucks are my favorite. So I need the king of R/C monster trucks. Plan to order one in a couple weeks along with the paints, bearings, steel pinions and a 5000 mah nimh. I plan to leave it stock and upgrade whatever breaks. Might go for some 23 turn or so motors later on, or some 27 turns with advanced timing made for the clod such as the team brood ones. I have a 35kg servo for it and a receiver and I will be sticking with the stock steering.

What would the run time be with the 5000 mah nimh? Will be a gens ace brand. about 20-25 min would be fine. I have a 3000 mah and 2400 mah for my blackfoot so I can swap out packs to get some more run time. I will probably do an led headlight set. That should drop run time a tad, but nothing drastic i'd think. I have no desire to go lipo for vintage R/Cs.

Any parts I should keep an eye on for breakage? This will get driven in grass and dirt, and I plan to build a set of crush cars and scale jumps for it. so nothing really too hard on it. If I want to hit a big jump at 25  mph that is what my stampede is for

[toyolien]

Only thing I ever broke on my Clod (well, it's actually a Bullhead), was the plastic anti-rotation brackets. Might be worth getting some aluminium ones.

https://www.modelbuild.co.uk/products/mb-aluminum-hop-up-option-part-e7-e-parts-body-mount-for-tamiya-monster-beetle-1

 

[magpie]

hello

         i only have front steering on mine,your need two if keeping norm.got 880 esc slow but still fun.

sorry thinking of two motors.

Edited October 15, 2024 by magpie
read wrong

[MadAnt]

8 hours ago, MadAtComputer said:

I plan to leave it stock and upgrade whatever breaks. Might go for some 23 turn or so motors later on, or some 27 turns with advanced timing made for the clod such as the team brood ones. I have a 35kg servo for it and a receiver and I will be sticking with the stock steering.

You don't want to go any faster than the stock speed using the stock steering. Trust me, I've been there and done it, and it's sketchy. The servo you have has more than enough torque so you should be good there. Since you are sticking with the stock steering system, there are a few things that can still be improved.

The servo horn that comes in the kit is too small and does not give enough throw. Just a simple fix is to use a larger heavy duty servo horn. 

Next, upgrade the servo savers. That right, there are multiple servo savers, two of them, one on each axle. Get stronger metal replacements and you don't have to worry about breaking them.

A lexan body is a good idea if there's a good chance of rolling over, which there is. There are many bodies to choose from, checkout what J Concepts has. Pick up what you like and save the hard body for parading and showing off on the stand.

For the battery I recommend the typical 5000Mah 2s 20-70C hard case LiPo. I know you don't want too, but consider it when you're ready. 5000mah should get you a 40 minute run time on a stock clod, which is more than enough for one battery, just use a good peak charger for the NiMh batteries so they can live just a little longer.

Lastly, as said before, upgrade the anti rotation brackets. The plastic ones can break sometimes. Here is mine right now:

 

[MadAtComputer]

I'll get a set of the aluminum anti rotation brackets. I have a couple larger round servo horns, I'll give one of those a try. I have considered the j concepts K2500 lexan body. but I am honestly terrible at cutting out lexan bodies. And the ABS body looks a lot better IMO. I'm not to worried about beating it up. my blackfoot body is holding up well. Although it is a lot lighter truck.

I've got a basic 0.9/1.8amp tenegery smart charger. I will get something nicer within a few months. My dad and I plan to get a couple on road cars in the spring so I want something that can charger a couple batteries at once and discharge ect. I won't say I will never go LiPo, but I have zero desire too currently.

[MadAnt]

11 hours ago, MadAtComputer said:

I'll get a set of the aluminum anti rotation brackets. I have a couple larger round servo horns, I'll give one of those a try.

I know someone who used one of those large round disk horns. He just drilled the holes for the pivot balls, installed it and it worked perfectly. 

 

11 hours ago, MadAtComputer said:

I have considered the j concepts K2500 lexan body. but I am honestly terrible at cutting out lexan bodies. And the ABS body looks a lot better IMO. I'm not to worried about beating it up. my blackfoot body is holding up well. Although it is a lot lighter truck.

The hard plastic bodies always look better, but it's cheaper to replace the lexan bodies. If tipping over is rare for you, it's not a big worry, but you have some very cool options if you ever decide to go lexan.

I have two clods, one of them is an early super clod that still has the power and economy switch(which I might hook back up) and 19T motors, which now has a new-ish body, because more speed + stock steering = more rollovers. Lol, the old body is a mess, but split perfectly in half.🤣

 

[MadAtComputer]

I roll my blackfoot over on occasion but I run on grass so not much has happened to it. the roll bar lights take the brunt of it lol for the clod 12-13 mph would be fast enough for me. honestly some 27 turn motors meant for the clod with a bit of timing would probably do. that would come later if I  get them. https://teambrood.net/product/monster-truck-motor-pair/

I do need to get better at cutting out lexan bodies. Dunno how I plan to build an on road kit without being able to.

My budget is $400. If I skip a new battery for now I cold probably get a lexan body and better cutting tools. I I do have a new can of ps-5 black sitting from my last lexan body attempt that ended in the trash.

I'd want to keep it a chevy, plan is to have  ford chevy and dodge tamiya trucks(blackfoot, clod, lunchbox). I am liking the j concepts 88 silverado body. hmm

 

https://jconcepts.net/1988-chevy-silverado-monster-truck-body

Edit: looks like the wheel base on that is a 1/2" to long.

[MadAnt]

1 hour ago, MadAtComputer said:

My budget is $400. If I skip a new battery for now I cold probably get a lexan body and better cutting tools. I I do have a new can of ps-5 black sitting from my last lexan body attempt that ended in the trash.

I'd want to keep it a chevy, plan is to have  ford chevy and dodge tamiya trucks(blackfoot, clod, lunchbox). I am liking the j concepts 88 silverado body. hmm

No rush for things. Use what you have for now and save $$$$. The body and other upgrades can wait if you just drive it carefully for now. Just run it stock, but do get a bearing kit and install it while you are assembling the truck. At your budget ball bearings is the best upgrade I recommend. Back when I bought my Super Clod the kit was just under $200, that's less than two 3rds what the kit costs now. So things may have gotten more expensive, but some things got better, like the cheap high torque servos, the cheap ESC's and more affordable bearing kits.

1 hour ago, MadAtComputer said:

Edit: looks like the wheel base on that is a 1/2" to long.

It's just right for the 280mm wheelbase, no big problem. You could also cut the wheel arches a bit to match better if you have too.

Also, if you are replying to someone, quote them so they get notified.

[MadAtComputer]

6 hours ago, MadAnt said:

No rush for things. Use what you have for now and save $$$$. The body and other upgrades can wait if you just drive it carefully for now. Just run it stock, but do get a bearing kit and install it while you are assembling the truck. At your budget ball bearings is the best upgrade I recommend. Back when I bought my Super Clod the kit was just under $200, that's less than two 3rds what the kit costs now. So things may have gotten more expensive, but some things got better, like the cheap high torque servos, the cheap ESC's and more affordable bearing kits.

It's just right for the 280mm wheelbase, no big problem. You could also cut the wheel arches a bit to match better if you have too.

Also, if you are replying to someone, quote them so they get notified.

yeah I plan on bearings. They are a must have. Motors would be later, or I might be happy with the standard motors.

There is a lot of value in r/c electronics these days. I enjoy my flysky GT3C radio, and the hobbywing esc in my Blackfoot is solid.

I do take it pretty easy on vintage r/cs. I save the big jumps ect for my stampede. which i guess is itself pretty vintage lol

 

Edit: when using a larger diameter servo horn do I need to do anything different with the linkages(lengthen, shorten?) that go from the servo to the axle mounted servo savers?

 

[MadAnt]

14 hours ago, MadAtComputer said:

when using a larger diameter servo horn do I need to do anything different with the linkages(lengthen, shorten?) that go from the servo to the axle mounted servo savers?

 

If you have to do any adjusting, it's easy, just pop the rod end off the ball and turn it in or out. 

[Carmine A]

My suggestion.... don't use the wonky central Servo! Regardless of Servo torque, it will never give you positive control... Axle mounted servos are the most accurate for steering. 

Giant Maine Coon cat not included!! 😜🤣

The kit I bought was a bit.... expensive. There are 3D Printed varieties that are very budget friendly. You could even just do the front axle.... as the center Servo seems to only want to turn the rear wheels anyway... 🙄

And like others said, LIMIT your steering! These will roll easily, especially with hotter motors.

[MadAtComputer]

19 hours ago, Carmine A said:

My suggestion.... don't use the wonky central Servo! Regardless of Servo torque, it will never give you positive control... Axle mounted servos are the most accurate for steering. 

Giant Maine Coon cat not included!! 😜🤣

The kit I bought was a bit.... expensive. There are 3D Printed varieties that are very budget friendly. You could even just do the front axle.... as the center Servo seems to only want to turn the rear wheels anyway... 🙄

And like others said, LIMIT your steering! These will roll easily, especially with hotter motors.

awesome cat! Those are the best looking on axle servo mounts that I have seen, still protects the linkage too.

I plan to run it stock for a good while.  It would be a few months before I could afford on axle steering or any other expensive upgrades. And like I said who knows I might be fine with the stock motors and just leave it be. I do not have a big area to drive R/C. My blackfoot with a 27 turn dirt tuned motor is about perfect speed wise. But I also do not want a clod that fast.

I'll see how it dose stock(withe bearings of course) and go from there. Oh and the aluminum anti rotation brackets when I can.

 

[Carmine A]

@MadAtComputer You should run stock for a little while. That has always been the tried and true method of letting YOU know, what your next step should be. I was told that about 40 years ago, from a kid named Gil Losi, Jr., who now is known for high end RCs. Did I always listen...?

No! 

We all buy RCs, some run stock, some pour money into hop-ups before we break the seal on the kit. I've often fallen into that category! This Clod, I bought the $200.00 Axle Mounted Servo system when I bought the kit. It's DANGEROUS at full speed! But at low speed, it's supremely agile and maneuverable. Plus as you've noticed, provides great protection to the linkages. 

This is my third Clodbuster.... ALL are fun, stock or modified. My second one was unrecognizable... because I made it a competition truck puller. (Big in the 90's) The first one always bugged me, because only the rear wheels really did any steering, with the center Servo. 

MIND YOU: that was back when high speed, high torque servos weren't even a dream. They needed soft servo savers, because the servos would self destruct if you hit the smallest bump or curb..... especially the Clods and open wheel buggies. The servos I run now, will BEND STEERING RODS before they strip a servo! I haven't used Servo Savers on anything, since 2015.....

BUT.... I would recommend a GOOD Servo Saver (Kimbrough) for a Clod. Just because of the weight and force of impacts.

Sorry for the novel..... just sharing almost 5 decades of experience. Take what parts are useful to you, and enjoy your Clod!! I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. 😉

[Carmine A]

Just now, Carmine A said:

@MadAtComputer You should run stock for a little while. That has always been the tried and true method of letting YOU know, what your next step should be. I was told that about 40 years ago, from a kid named Gil Losi, Jr., who now is known for high end RCs. Did I always listen...?

No! 

We all buy RCs, some run stock, some pour money into hop-ups before we break the seal on the kit. I've often fallen into that category! This Clod, I bought the $200.00 Axle Mounted Servo system when I bought the kit. It's DANGEROUS at full speed! But at low speed, it's supremely agile and maneuverable. Plus as you've noticed, provides great protection to the linkages. 

This is my third Clodbuster.... ALL are fun, stock or modified. My second one was unrecognizable... because I made it a competition truck puller. (Big in the 90's) The first one always bugged me, because only the rear wheels really did any steering, with the center Servo. 

MIND YOU: that was back when high speed, high torque servos weren't even a dream. They needed soft servo savers, because the servos would self destruct if you hit the smallest bump or curb..... especially the Clods and open wheel buggies. The servos I run now, will BEND STEERING RODS before they strip a servo! I haven't used Servo Savers on anything, since 2015.....

BUT.... I would recommend a GOOD Servo Saver (Kimbrough) for a Clod. Just because of the weight and force of impacts.

The alumininium anti rotation braces are a great first mod.

Sorry for the novel..... just sharing almost 5 decades of experience. Take what parts are useful to you, and enjoy your Clod!! I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. 😉

 

[MadAtComputer]

31 minutes ago, Carmine A said:

@MadAtComputer You should run stock for a little while. That has always been the tried and true method of letting YOU know, what your next step should be. I was told that about 40 years ago, from a kid named Gil Losi, Jr., who now is known for high end RCs. Did I always listen...?

No! 

We all buy RCs, some run stock, some pour money into hop-ups before we break the seal on the kit. I've often fallen into that category! This Clod, I bought the $200.00 Axle Mounted Servo system when I bought the kit. It's DANGEROUS at full speed! But at low speed, it's supremely agile and maneuverable. Plus as you've noticed, provides great protection to the linkages. 

This is my third Clodbuster.... ALL are fun, stock or modified. My second one was unrecognizable... because I made it a competition truck puller. (Big in the 90's) The first one always bugged me, because only the rear wheels really did any steering, with the center Servo. 

MIND YOU: that was back when high speed, high torque servos weren't even a dream. They needed soft servo savers, because the servos would self destruct if you hit the smallest bump or curb..... especially the Clods and open wheel buggies. The servos I run now, will BEND STEERING RODS before they strip a servo! I haven't used Servo Savers on anything, since 2015.....

BUT.... I would recommend a GOOD Servo Saver (Kimbrough) for a Clod. Just because of the weight and force of impacts.

Sorry for the novel..... just sharing almost 5 decades of experience. Take what parts are useful to you, and enjoy your Clod!! I'll be happy to answer any questions you might have. 😉

No worries, thank you for the info. The kimbrough servo save I have on my blackfoot has been great.

 

[Carmine A]

I've never had a problem with Kimbrough servo savers. Far better then the JUNK in Tamiya kits!

I just wish that the body that attaches to the servo was metal. They're tight and do their job well.... but the nylon splines strip on some impacts. 

[MadAtComputer]

I ordered everything other than the aluminum anti rotation brackets on Friday morning. Those will have to wait til next month. I got the black edition, I like the smoked chrome wheels and the red chassis parts.

[Tamiya Fan 1]

it's been 30+ yrs. since I built mine. Original Clod Buster. Kit cost me $400.00, for some reason remember that for sure. Any way mine was built in the 1990's like Carmine A, was built for pulling. When it was stock It would have a shake and shimmy. A side to side thing. I went with oil filled shocks for it and used 8 of them. even those were hard to get back then. (just starting to come out back then) If you look at Carmine A's picture, he has them as a single shock each wheel. Which would be fine. I like the double shock each wheel look and went that route. ($$) The Clod will become much more stable with oil shocks.

I thought this was important for the Clod Buster back in the day. I have not kept up with mods. for the clod these days.  I know money is tight for you. if your Clod looks funny while driveing might try Oil Shocks with heavier oil in them. 

Also I ran 2 packs of batteries for it. They were square shape with 6 cells each (so 12 cells) and would sit in the pockets above axles. Then ran the regular battery in it's normal slot to run lights. So it was quite heavy!  But also stable. Run time over 45mins. with hot motors in it.

As far as running Leds, they won't be a problem with to much power drain on the battery.

Hope this helps.

[Carmine A]

1 hour ago, Tamiya Fan 1 said:

.... If you look at Carmine A's picture, he has them as a single shock each wheel. Which would be fine. I like the double shock each wheel look and went that route.....

Actually I had some shocks off for reoiling.... I run 4 shocks with springs, and 4 (inner) shocks without springs. But all 8 are oil dampers. You DON'T really want all 8 springs! It's hard to imagine, but Clods don't weigh much stock.... and MOST of that weight is unsprung weight (the axles)!! 🫨 Exactly the opposite you need for good, predictable handling. 

My suspension actually works, because I only run 4 of the springs. Otherwise it would just bounce around and flip over easily.....

Especially since I've got more than TWICE the steering angle of a stock Clod!

Oh, and I added 40oz of wheel weights in the lower tub where the single servo USED to sit. That alone made mine much smoother.