shock absorbers Length of the Front and Back Dampers from Eye to Eye and the Damper's Cylinder Diameter on the 1979 Vintage Sand Scorcher?

[Alvin777]

Hi RC friends, I searched everywhere (it's not in the manual) if you know- what're the official lengths of the front and back dampers from eye to eye and the dampers' diameters on the 1979 vintage Sand Scorcher?

When I look for other alternative shock absorbers (even double springs or the latest shock absorbers and dampers) aside from the length of both front and rear dampers (from hole to hole) what diameter should I be mindful of? 

I'm open to using spacers so aftermarket compatible is easier.

 

Your recommendations are welcome.

 

God bless RC modifier (it's tedious sometimes).

 

P.S. Thank you TamiyaClub for making me a part of your team. Coz' I'm not sure where the rabbit hole of restoring a Sand Scorcher for someone will take, If the questions (I've researched most tediously, there are just a few questions left perhaps) become a lot, consolidate them into '777's Sand Scorcher Restoration'

[MadAnt]

8 hours ago, Alvin777 said:

Hi RC friends, I searched everywhere (it's not in the manual) if you know- what're the official lengths of the front and back dampers from eye to eye and the dampers' diameters on the 1979 vintage Sand Scorcher?

When I look for other alternative shock absorbers (even double springs or the latest shock absorbers and dampers) aside from the length of both front and rear dampers (from hole to hole) what diameter should I be mindful of? 

I'm open to using spacers so aftermarket compatible is easier.

 

Your recommendations are welcome.

 

God bless RC modifier (it's tedious sometimes).

 

P.S. Thank you TamiyaClub for making me a part of your team. Coz' I'm not sure where the rabbit hole of restoring a Sand Scorcher for someone will take, If the questions (I've researched most tediously, there are just a few questions left perhaps) become a lot, consolidate them into '777's Sand Scorcher Restoration'

If you have the original parts, just measure them.

Also, identify if it's  from "1979" or not. If true or is an early design from 79 or 80 or something with the original black bumper, some parts and other early SRB designs are different. So you can do a vintage restoration or a correct vintage restoration, or a resto mod, a vintage resto mod. Post some pics of the car, like the front and rear suspension ask the rest of the questions.

[Alvin777]

Hi @MadAnt thanks, here is the measurement with the axle at max down : about 60-61mm something from eye to eye/hole to hole for the rear(I don't have a lot of parts in this restore for someone who's disabled, restore budget is nearing an Aarma Typhon on a huge discount :-D should I start buying for this very tough restore to at least working after I check all parts are available within cost; been researching and checking for 7 days now). I have yet to buy the arms, the 4 shocks, rear bumper with pipe joints with antenna holder for modified antenna (mine goes into a sturdy white straw-like thing) and need to buy screws and N20 ball pin/ball connector/ball stud (what's it really called?) and the proper screws which are expensive coz' I may have to buy Screw bag A, B and D or more screws and parts I may oversee in the future.

The most common I can find when it comes to shock lengths are 55mm (is rare) 60, 70, 80, 90 and 100+ I'm open to changing the spring so it can be any length I need but what would be the proper length of springs for all for? I'm open to  more stylish shocks not the original design if possible, those anodized one perhaps, double springs I'm open to that too. When I give it second life, it's more for show than for performance but it must drive ok. What length do you think is compatible for the rear and front?

Could you help me out on the screws, nuts, washers and N20 (and to a lesser extent N19) coz' even if I buy the Screw Bag A, B and D it still won't be enough, it's better if I can source it from standard hardware shops online that sell screws, nuts, washers and ball pin for the axle and servo arm (N20 is what I primarily need). Would you know the thread pitch and length & width of the screws in the photos (if someone has converted them all into the standard non-Tamiya tag names)? In Tamiya's manual only the diameter for the nut holes and for the screws are mentioned. I'm planned to replace all screws with hexagon socket ones, all allen ones so I only use allen wrenches for everything including the 2mm diameter small screws for the wheel covers and I can also have a choice of stainless coz' my ball pins/ball connectors, screws are all rusted shut even after a soak in oil (Ballistol brand) but they say Kroil brand better, some say PB Buster is best. Screw bags are also expensive (yet lacking for my many missing screws). If you also have a link on how to find the Tamiya bearings from non-RC stores, your usual hardware online stores using the numbers on the manual that'd be great too.

The screws, washers, ball connectors and nuts that are encircled in green are the most crucial, the rest are 2nd important.

Recommendations are always welcome with this tough restore (tough for someone who's first time to restore).

Thank you.

[MadAnt]

3 hours ago, Alvin777 said:

The most common I can find when it comes to shock lengths are 55mm (is rare) 60, 70, 80, 90 and 100+ I'm open to changing the spring so it can be any length I need but what would be the proper length of springs for all for? I'm open to  more stylish shocks not the original design if possible, those anodized one perhaps, double springs I'm open to that too. When I give it second life, it's more for show than for performance but it must drive ok. What length do you think is compatible for the rear and front?

Could you help me out on the screws, nuts, washers and N20 (and to a lesser extent N19) coz' even if I buy the Screw Bag A, B and D it still won't be enough, it's better if I can source it from standard hardware shops online that sell screws, nuts, washers and ball pin for the axle and servo arm (N20 is what I primarily need). Would you know the thread pitch and length & width of the screws in the photos (if someone has converted them all into the standard non-Tamiya tag names)? In Tamiya's manual only the diameter for the nut holes and for the screws are mentioned. I'm planned to replace all screws with hexagon socket ones, all allen ones so I only use allen wrenches for everything including the 2mm diameter small screws for the wheel covers and I can also have a choice of stainless coz' my ball pins/ball connectors, screws are all rusted shut even after a soak in oil (Ballistol brand) but they say Kroil brand better, some say PB Buster is best. Screw bags are also expensive (yet lacking for my many missing screws). If you also have a link on how to find the Tamiya bearings from non-RC stores, your usual hardware online stores using the numbers on the manual that'd be great too.

The screws, washers, ball connectors and nuts that are encircled in green are the most crucial, the rest are 2nd important.

Recommendations are always welcome with this tough restore (tough for someone who's first time to restore).

Thank you.

I measured the shocks on mine, keep in mind these are ballpark numbers because I used a measuring tape.

Front: 70mm

Rear: 58mm

Looks like a crusty car you are dealing with. Since you are not staying 100% original you can definitely substitute the hardware or something shiny or stainless. Tamiya gives you the sizes for the hardware, that makes aftermarket solutions easier to find. I bet there is even an aftermarket stainless screw srew set for the re re sand scorcher, but most of the hardware should fit. As for the other miscellaneous parts, like the antenna pipe, ebay may be a good solution for that. Look at parts lots and buy multiples from one seller to get better bang for you buck.

Good luck!

[Alvin777]

Thanks for sharing those amazing I believe the one infront is a vintage Sand Scorcher and other other with solid aluminum wheels is the 2010 and that seems to be a vintage Super Champ. I take all are original parts, maybe save for the nuts for the wheels which seems to be aftermarket anodized. :-)

You're so blessed. I wonder if I should buy the Aarma Typhon or continue restoring this (I haven't bought any parts save for a wheel Kyosho controller and fast charge with safety charger that can be connected to direct current of a car battery and charge in minutes all for US$64 used but that can be used for any RC w/ adapter for T-connector batteries. I wonder what's the most long running R/C battery that can be retrofitted into the iconic, amazing, innovative, pioneer or R/C technology Sand Scorcher; a battery that can run for maybe an hour :-) so we don't charge every 3 to 5 minutes especially with fast green colored engines set at max setting, max rpm?)

What brand of paint did you use for the white wheels and how did you make it scratch resistant if there some kind of tough coating over it? The driver became a Hitler moustached guy :-) did you use Tamiya acrylic paints used for their model kits like their World War 2 kits?

[MadAnt]

8 hours ago, Alvin777 said:

You're so blessed. I wonder if I should buy the Aarma Typhon or continue restoring this

You really can't bash with an old Sand scorcher like you can with the Arrma Typhon. If a reliable and rugged runner is needed, then get the Typhon and just slowly restore the old Sand Scorcher on the side.

Also, in that pic, the Original Sand Scorcher is the one in front of the original Super Champ, the wheels have been painted silver. Most hard body cars I paint now get a good clear coat, I use Tamiya or Testors model rattle and brush on paints. Automotive paints work well too and are great when you want certain other colors, but fine spray tips should be used for decent quality. 

BTW, the painted driver has a normal mustache.

[Alvin777]

I just bough this for the very tough, overbudget vintage (modified) Sand Scorcher but is this 100% compatible with the Sand Scorcher vintage's chassis:

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/166908620838

 

Thank you in advance

[Alvin777]

By the way I like the color of a shock set and for 4 shocks it's about US$8.20, the shorter shocks (Total Length : 71 mm,  Hole center to hole center : 64 mm) may fit the rear axles, the long one is Total Length : 96 mm, Hole center to hole center : 90 mm, is it ok to make it fit, I just cut the springs?

Thanks.