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Burned_out_motor

Expert Built Beetle Rally “Required” Upgrades?

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Hello Tamiya Club!

I am a guy who knows very little about hobby grade RC.  I really like the look of the Tamiya Beetle Rally car.  I’ve seen it over the years but have been hesitant to buy a kit because I don’t have confidence in my assembly skills or parts knowledge yet.  Once I saw that an Expert Built version existed, I decided to buy it.  The chassis doesn’t seem to be very desirable from what I’ve read but that’s what I’ve got.

Here are a few questions about the MF-01X chassis that I have after reading other posts:

1.  The vehicle comes with plastic bearings that several posters have stated should immediately upgraded to metal bearings.  (This advice comes from builders who are building the Beetle from a kit).  What will happen if I just run the car with those plastic bearings?  Are they going to wear out and damage other gears or parts?  Should I immediately upgrade this car?  Can I just run it as-is?

2.  There seems to be an issue with rear suspension hitting part of the chassis.  I’ve seen YouTube  builders Dremel plastic off, or change parts.  Aside l from the car not performing optimally, what if I just left that as-is and drove it until I learn how to remedy it?

3.  I just saw a post about the motor maybe sliding off?  Pinion problems?  Oh man - I just want to run it when it gets here.  That’s why I bought an EB version.

I guess the big question is:  Can I run this MF-01X chassis as it comes, without damaging anything?  Or should I start working on bearings, clearances, oil shocks, and motor mount issues immediately, then run it?  

Its going to take a while for it to arrive.  And my wife doesn’t want me to open it until Christmas, lol!  I have a little buyers remorse after reading up on the MF-01X chassis but I love the look of that car so much, I just want to run it.  
 

I look forward to your thoughts and opinions.

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You can run few packs through and see how you feel about it.   

1.  Back in the 80s, we all ran nylon bushings.  Eventually, after dozens of packs, they'll make grooves on the steel shafts.  Nylon + dust is stronger than steel, apparently.  When that happens (after dozens of packs running in dusty areas), you can't replace them with proper bearings anymore.  You'd have to replace shafts too.  But for a few runs, it should be fine.  

2.  When you get it, just press the wheel up and see how it interferes.  Turn the other wheel slowly, and push it up and down.  You'll see how it interferes.  If I remember correctly, lower hang was more of a concern for me.  When the suspension was at the lowest, the wheels would turn with clicks, or something. But it might be different for the stock friction shock. So you'd want to check it yourself.    

3.  I have not heard about the motor sliding off.  Motors are not that easy to slide off.  The pinion could come loose.  You'd hear grinding vibration like a broken chainsaw.  But it's rare.  If that happened, you can simply tighten the grub screw on the pinion.  

All in all, you can just run it a couple times, and see what you want to do.  Bearings are a good upgrade no matter what.  I think it's mostly 1150 bearings?  Double check that, if it is 1150, it's only about $5 for 10.  Don't worry and have fun!  There are dozens of places where you could get bearings from.  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806932524096.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.bf126db7ZbowKQ&algo_pvid=98e5dcd8-1c2a-4d5e-a2b3-19b51539f826&algo_exp_id=98e5dcd8-1c2a-4d5e-a2b3-19b51539f826-0&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!4.13!4.13!!!29.31!29.31!%402103277f17298037128362300e0df6!12000039463374213!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=La5jj4FbTYkw&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

 

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Thanks, Jugglar!  I probably misunderstood the motor issue.  It was in another post about the various pros and cons of this particular chassis.  

I’ve got big plans for this RC.  While I’m waiting, I’m considering buying a replacement body, stickers, and a body detail set and make a slightly differently painted body.  Maybe ordering some different tires, would be fun, too.  I plan on running it on an asphalt parking lot near my house.

When it arrives, I might remove and store the expert built body, & stock wheels and use what I’ve ordered and prepared.  I’ll try to be careful but it’s going to take a tumble or two, I’m sure.  

I'm going to need a good balance charger, batteries, and parts.  This is going to be awesome!!!

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5 hours ago, Burned_out_motor said:

1.  The vehicle comes with plastic bearings that several posters have stated should immediately upgraded to metal bearings.  (This advice comes from builders who are building the Beetle from a kit).  What will happen if I just run the car with those plastic bearings? 

2.  There seems to be an issue with rear suspension hitting part of the chassis.  I’ve seen YouTube  builders Dremel plastic off, or change parts.  Aside l from the car not performing optimally, what if I just left that as-is and drove it until I learn how to remedy it?

3.  I just saw a post about the motor maybe sliding off?  Pinion problems?  Oh man - I just want to run it when it gets here.  That’s why I bought an EB version.

I guess the big question is:  Can I run this MF-01X chassis as it comes, without damaging anything? 

1. Eventually your axles/shafts will either have some wear on them, or the bushings will wear out. When you replace them with "proper" metal bearings don't worry about the brand, just get a pack that's intended for the MF-01X.

2. I wouldn't worry too much about it. I would reccomend a set of oil filled shocks (either Yeah Racing or Super Mini CVAs for the TT02), the friction shocks bounce and they will easily let your car bottom out.

3. If you don't jump it or go over big bumps you should be fine. I would replace the pinion with a 0.6m coated aluminum or steel. The stock pinion will wear out in a few runs and lunch your spur gear.

You can run that Rally Beetle as it is, just keep an eye on things.

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Thanks for that information.  I’m thinking more and more about this and I might just do some of those upgrades immediately.  Especially the pinion gear replacement!  Bearings too.  I’ve got time to read and watch videos on how to do it.  
 

My goal is just to get it setup and reliable.  The fun I’ve gotten out of toy grade RC cars is to drive them hard and fast around the parking lot, skidding, doing donuts, and stuff like that.  I don’t intend to jump anything with the rally beetle.  Just aggressive driving that wears down tires.

Install New pinion

install oil filled shocks

install steel bearings

Get a good charger

Get more wheels and tires.

I’ll give it a try!

 

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The MF-01X has a known problem of motor sliding out of mesh. Threadlock and maybe lock washers (you may need the next length up M3 screws) can help. You also may want to remove those mirrors as they will break off the first time you roll the car. 

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2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

The MF-01X has a known problem of motor sliding out of mesh. Threadlock and maybe lock washers (you may need the next length up M3 screws) can help. You also may want to remove those mirrors as they will break off the first time you roll the car. 

Yes, that sounds like what I read about the motor sliding earlier.  Thank you!  
 

Well, it looks like I should get to work on the thing as soon as it gets here.  I might buy the bearings now even though I’m clueless as to how to install them. Oil filled shocks, new motor pinion, threadlock, etc.  

And yesI might put on a replacement body and preserve the expert built body.  
 

Heck, I might as well remove the motor and run it at 3volts for a while break it in and to seat the brushes I

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21 hours ago, Burned_out_motor said:

I'm going to need a good balance charger, batteries, and parts.

I use imax B6, like a quarter of all RCers (that's my guess, don't quote me on that). 

But now I'm using the simple charger @alvinlwh recommended.  ISDT PD60 is cheap & easy to use if you have a USB-C charger for ipad.  

Most chargers need a transformer (power supply) that changes AC 120v (or 220v) from the wall, to either DC 12v or 6v (that's where ipad charger comes in--phone chargers won't work. they have too few amps).  If the battery is 3000mAh, it will take an hour at 3A setting (which many ipad chargers are capable of.)  You can plug USB-C to power it. Plug the battery on the other end and it should work.  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/2255801108792765.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.9.63b56586is0dSc&algo_pvid=5e719e8a-e7a2-4fc6-90fc-a7a169303131&algo_exp_id=5e719e8a-e7a2-4fc6-90fc-a7a169303131-4&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!22.41!15.69!!!22.41!15.69!%4021030ea417298870741178705e1923!12000027044918837!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=BM9zeAVLSVGV&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

 

If your battery has a Tamiya plug, you would need a XT60 to Tamiya adapter (like below).  One should always be mindful of male and female side.  Many imax B6s come with multiple adapters, but it could be different from seller to seller. (I imagine half the B6 are knockoffs especially non-blue ones. But the consensus is that they work just as well.)  PD60 doesn't come with any adapter or wires. (No, it did come with one 6" wire, but that was for old one-prong laptop charger, I think).  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807062460479.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.2e5325feNKPhkM&algo_pvid=a6cd9f8f-47e0-49e1-9bd9-73443a9df006&algo_exp_id=a6cd9f8f-47e0-49e1-9bd9-73443a9df006-1&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!8.02!2.69!!!56.87!19.07!%402103247917298878443561362e338a!12000039948723433!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=dHq5fPgGzZQp&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

I get too lazy to setup imax B6, so I just use PD60.  Since it can do 6A charge (if USB-C can supply 65w or more), 3000mAh battery can be charged in 30 minutes.  For a cheap little thing, it's good.  (If you want iMax B6, there is a fat one that contains a power supply.  But if that burns out, the charger becomes useless. You'd have to get a new B6, instead of just getting a new power supply.)

 

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1 hour ago, Juggular said:

phone chargers won't work. they have too few amps

They can now. USB PD can go up beyond 100w. Even with the older QC3.0 charger, I can use that @3A. 

Having said that, I actually run that charger off a 300w transformer now (which also powers my diesel heater). Where this charger real strength is that it can be used off a good USB PD powerbank or car charger. 

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2 hours ago, Burned_out_motor said:

Heck, I might as well remove the motor and run it at 3volts for a while break it in and to seat the brushes I

What I do is to dump the motor into a glass of water and use the trim on the transmitter to make it turn slowly for 20m forward and reverse. Easier than to mess around with 3v. 

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6 hours ago, MadAnt said:

Beetles are cool! 

Rally Bugs are cool too!

And baja bugs! 

B)

I’ll be honest, I have an obsession with VW Beetles racing in any category.  And it’s all because of……

 

THIS:

27FB6A4A-CD20-44CC-9BDD-B440FEE214A3.png

 

Look at those custom rims!  Yes it started for me with this classic movie.  I’m not committed enough to buy or make a real one, but I’m 100% OK with racing an RC version someday!

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The car showed up in record time, straight from Japan.  The wife won’t let me open it until Christmas, lol!  I’m 60 years old and feel like a 10 year old waiting until Christmas.  What the heck, it’s fun.  Here’s the plan upon opening the box:

1.  Remove the body shell and stock wheels and rims for safekeeping.

2.  Replace the body with a stripped down replacement “stunt body” that I’m going to buy and paint soon.

3.  Install wheels and slicks suited for the parking lot where I intend to run it.

The plan is to run it a lot, probably taking a tumble here and there, while preserving the expert built body.  I’m probably going to just fix stuff as it breaks.  That’s the way I’m going to learn.  I do feel like a bit of a wimp for not building this from a kit.

I’ll post pics of the custom stunt body when I get it and paint it.

 

 

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I just ordered a body shell, polycarbonate paint, stickers, wheels, foam & racing slicks.  I’m spending a fortune on this and so far I don’t even have batteries or a charger, yet!!!  I don’t care, lol!!!

The idea is to have a “stunt body” and wheels to use and preserve the expert built stock body and wheels.  I’m going to be running on concrete so I’m going for an on-road Beetle Fun Cup  look and not quite the rally look.

I looked at dozens of Beetle cup and rally photos.  The light blue / flat black racer is what I’m going to try to make the model look like.

I’ve never painted an RC shell before but I’ve painted quite a few model cars so I think this is going to work.  Looking forward to Christmas, lol!  I’ll post pics when I get all the parts and paints in and get something together.

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I don’t intend to put any bumpers or headlights on since I’ll likely roll the car a few times.  (I’ll try to avoid doing that). 
Some runner up ideas that almost made it for the stunt body:

 

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On 10/29/2024 at 8:34 PM, Burned_out_motor said:

The car showed up in record time, straight from Japan.  The wife won’t let me open it until Christmas, lol!  I’m 60 years old and feel like a 10 year old waiting until Christmas.  What the heck, it’s fun.  Here’s the plan upon opening the box:

1.  Remove the body shell and stock wheels and rims for safekeeping.

2.  Replace the body with a stripped down replacement “stunt body” that I’m going to buy and paint soon.

3.  Install wheels and slicks suited for the parking lot where I intend to run it.

The plan is to run it a lot, probably taking a tumble here and there, while preserving the expert built body.  I’m probably going to just fix stuff as it breaks.  That’s the way I’m going to learn.  I do feel like a bit of a wimp for not building this from a kit.

I’ll post pics of the custom stunt body when I get it and paint it.

 

 

A8C62627-0B6D-4A64-9056-9AB2FD1DE6A6.png

00A8FE8A-8898-4BFA-B8C5-DE1F756076DB.png

 

 

Oil shocks should be on the shopping list with the bearings.  It gets deep pretty quickly.  

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I love your excitement for your new Beetle!   Hope you really enjoy it.   I'm going to make a prediction that you will order your next Tamiya before you officially open up your first one on Christmas day!  :D

I've built three MF-01X chassis and like you, the Rally Beetle was my first Tamiya when I got back into RC cars a couple years ago!   

One thing Tamiya is known for is amazingly well done build manuals.   For your second car, I wouldn't shy away from a Tamiya kit if I were you.  They're actually pretty easy if you follow the manual step by step.   

While I agree with others about upgrading to ball bearings, keep in mind on the MF-01X chassis to do a complete bearing upgrade, you pretty much are disassembling most of the chassis.  To get bearings into the front and rear gear boxes, you will have to split the sides of the chassis.  

Enjoy and welcome to the hobby!

 

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Hey OnTheTrail!

Thanks for the response!

Christmas came and went!  My Expert Built Beetle is beautiful!  It’s still in the box and it looks so good I kind of hate to take it out.  Once we’re a little bit into 2025 and I get some time, I intend to wash, paint, apply decals, etc to an extra body that I purchased.  

That stock pristine body will probably not get driven, it’s just too nice!  Unless it gets destroyed, I hope to display the car when I’m not driving it.

I decided I’m not swapping bushings or anything out as that defeats the purpose for my buying a ready to run model.  I’ll change parts as needed.  Just a body and wheels/tires swap.

Yes, I am a total enthusiastic beginner.  I love RC cars and it’s time to move up from toy grade.

Unless you experts advise otherwise, I intend to order this charger:

Charger

And these batteries:

NiMH Batteries

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5 hours ago, Burned_out_motor said:

Christmas came and went!  My Expert Built Beetle is beautiful!  It’s still in the box and it looks so good I kind of hate to take it out.  Once we’re a little bit into 2025 and I get some time, I intend to wash, paint, apply decals, etc to an extra body that I purchased.  

 

Unless you experts advise otherwise, I intend to order this charger:

Charger

And these batteries:

NiMH Batteries

Congrats on the new Beetle and I'm sure you will enjoy it!

Here's another choice on the charger.  Looks identical to the one you listed only less expensive.  I have this charger as one I keep in the camper to charge whatever RCs I bring with me on a camping trip (getting too lazy to pack up my four output charger and all the wires).   Nice charger.  Works well and can be plugged into AC or on to a 12V car/camper battery.  

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B5LLVSRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Hello Tamiya Club!

We finally had a dry sunny day so I decided to take the “Expert Built” Beetle Rally car to the parking lot for a spin.  I intended to prepare a custom body (which I will still eventually do) but I just ran it as is.  

To my surprise, it came with a 7.2V NiCd battery.  I also bought two NiMH 5000 MAh 7.2V batteries as spares.  I tested the voltage of each battery and was surprised to find they all read over 7.2V!

It’s a beautiful car.  It runs smooth and quietly.  Another surprise - it’s laughably SLOW!  I know it’s designed for off-road “rally” racing and not an on-road racer, but, I own toys from my kids that go faster.  I swapped battery packs, same result.  One of the 5000mAh batteries lasted for 30 minutes. I packed up and went home before it ran out so I don’t think it’s batteries.

I’m learning how to cycle the batteries with the charger, then I’m going to fully charge them and am go out again tomorrow.  
 

The car is awesome, I have no regrets, but it’s not going to go fast enough as-is  to flip or wear out bearings or anything, lol!!!  I’m going to keep learning about the batteries, pinions, and possible motor upgrades and see about getting it to go a little faster than a New Bright RC from Wal Mart!  
 

Today was funny.  

C4CB32A0-C8EB-4BCF-9112-22DB5362A01F.jpeg

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Ok - I’m new to real RC…I didn’t realize a 7.4v NiMH battery fully charged should read up to 8.4v on the multimeter.  So, when I measured all those batteries that have been in storage and they read 7.6v, I thought I was good to go, but that’s not the case.

The batteries must have been really drained.  I’m going to try the car out again.   

I’m still kind of laughing because the car couldn’t go fast enough to even come close to flipping over, bottoming out, melting bushings, or any of the stuff I was originally worried about.

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An easy upgrade for a little more speed is a bigger pinion gear, the stock pinion is 16t 0.6 mod iirc, which is ridiculously small for an M-chassis on stock wheels.

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Get the largest pinion that will fit. It's very over geared with stock pinion.

I think a 22T gear will fit. That will make it considerably faster.

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Thanks for the info!  The car is beautiful.  Well built.  Quiet.  And embarrassingly SLOW! Haha!

I look like I’m playing with one of my kids’ toys. Yeah - bigger pinion.  I’ll try it,  If I can get it up to speed with better gearing , maybe a better motor and bigger tires, I’d like to eventually take it to a local RC track.  We’ve obviously got a little work to do first, haha!

Here’s a clip - sorry for the poor camera angle in the first link.

Car in action.

Car in action - better angle.

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