ESC switches outside a lexan body

[Rijkvv 66]

I noticed I find it inconvenient to have an ESC switch unreachable without removing the body. Mostly with buggies due to their body often being a tight fit. I suppose that's the reason Tamiya used dedicated slots on some of their kits, mostly in the bottom of the chassis. Only the switches used on the Tamiya ESC's fit though, and I don't wanna use those. I could try to solder the switch to an ESC of my choice, but I rather first try something bigger like power connectors. Alternatively I could try a 3D printed adapter, but I don't have a printer and so far found 3D printed stuff to be fragile.

Currently I'm also looking to other brands, broadening my horizon if you like, and was looking at some Kyosho legendary kit instructions. I've noticed in kits like the Scorpion they tell you to cut a hole for the switch in the lexan body. I can't find pictures this has actually been done however. Is this doable for somebody without a lot of experience? Shouldn't it be difficult to align everything properly and make a square hole without looking crude? Or is the idea the whole switch case is placed outside, which I would think would look crude as well?

Any other ideas to fit a switch outside the body?

[skom25 2179]

Attach switch somewhere at the edge of the chassis and just put finger under body. Lexan is very flexible. Nothing wrong will happen.

BTW:

After a long time with issue which you mentioned, I just decided to remove Switches from all cars I have. Why? Because I do not see reason to have them.

If you stop to run car, you need to disconnect battery. In that case, what is the reason to have switch?

[Gebbly 799]

Some ESCs like the Hobbywing 1080 have a little push button rather than a slider switch. For those you could always drill a small hole in a bit of exposed chassis and then fix the switch with the button facing the hole. Then to turn on and off poke something small through the hole to the switch. I'm thinking along the lines of a lot of electronic gadgets which have a reset switch that you get to by poking a pin in a tiny hole.

[ADRay1000 524]

you might find that mounting a switch on the outside might cause it to get shut off in the event in a  fender bender. 
 

I usually find a place to tape switches down if I find that the provided mounting spot isn’t preferable. If close to the ground, mount it with the switch lever pointed up. 
 

and I pretty much leave the switches on all the time and just disconnect the battery. 

[Mad Ax 10586]

@ADRay1000 makes a great point.  Back in the good old days of MSCs and 2-way switches, it was common for a stone to flick up off the wheels and knock the power switch.  I learnt early to always mount my switch to the on position was facing the rear of the car - that way, the stone was more likely to flick it on than off.  With an MSC, if the switch went to Off, your servos and receiver would be powered down but the battery would remain connected to the motor at whatever throttle setting you had.  Hence, a runaway car that you had to chase after.  I nearly lost my Mud Blaster into a main road full of traffic that way.

I generally position my switch under the body in a location where I can easily wriggle a finger under to get at it.  This is fine on touring cars, scalers and monster trucks, less so on buggies with a fitted undertray.  For those, I either put the switch near the rear where there's usually an open space, or I make a hole so I can poke it with a tool like @Gebbly does.

[ADRay1000 524]

@Mad Ax the bad old days!
 

I had to chase down my old lunchbox more than once. 

[Tamiyastef 2727]

3 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

always mount my switch to the on position was facing the rear of the car

I still do it that way, can't help myself. I believe it to be a clear memeory for everyone that chased their priced possession at least once BITD

[ADRay1000 524]

or how about having it go haywire on your lap. I remember having my lunchbox facing me and straddling my knees when it cut loose. It bumped against my stomach and the tire sidewall look a couple layers of skin off my right knee. 

[alvinlwh 7227]

Another example of nearly runaway car, on auto set ESC like the 1060, the throttle was pressed accidently during startup (leaning on something, something leaning on it, whatever). So neutral become move on the ESC as it goes through it's startup sequence. Pick up the transmitter and the car attempt to shoot off. Luckily the car was still in the boot of the 1:1 car so I managed to grab it and turn it off. 

[Rijkvv 66]

Welp, not the answers I expected, but the answers I needed I guess, so many thanks.

I'm a bit surprised however, if these switches can cause such a risk, then why are ESC's still equipped with them? I can't remember seeing a single ESC that comes without a switch.

Would this risk remain with a switch behind the cockpit on top? That's where it's located per instructions on the aforementioned Kyosho Scorpion (Turbo Scorpion, Beetle) and I think on the Tamiya DT03 as well.

@skom25I've read for removing/eliminating the switch both to solder the wires and to just cut it off. Depending on the ESC I guess? Any way hoe to determine which way to do it, or just trial and error?

[skom25 2179]

Just cut it and see if it will turn On. If not, just solder two wires

[Tamiyastef 2727]

12 hours ago, Rijkvv said:

why are ESC's still equipped with them?

It was especially a risk with MSC's BITD. Now if you make a habbit of turning the car on while you hold it in the air (not by its wheels!) You should be good.