Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR on TC-01 Chassis

[Old_Corny 315]

This is going to be a slow build due to back problems preventing me sitting for too long

Prevaricating over the start because it's a bit daunting, I started by sorting the titanium screws

 

Feeling boyed by the progress, I opened  some bits to get started...

 

Only to come up with a question which I have asked elsewhere in the "Building Tips and Techniques" forum.

Excited, I'm hoping to do a bit of actual assembly tomorrow!

 

[skom25 2179]

Do you have Thread Forming Tap? If no, I strongly suggest to buy it. You will quickly find difference in quality of work.

[svenb 4240]

54 minutes ago, skom25 said:

Do you have Thread Forming Tap? If no, I strongly suggest to buy it. You will quickly find difference in quality of work.

I can second that

[TurnipJF 10247]

Been looking forward to this build!👍

[Old_Corny 315]

16 hours ago, skom25 said:

Do you have Thread Forming Tap? If no, I strongly suggest to buy it. You will quickly find difference in quality of work.

 

15 hours ago, svenb said:

I can second that

I do have a 3mm "tap shaped" tool in a cheap old set, I'll have to buy a good one I think

[Old_Corny 315]

15 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Been looking forward to this build!👍

I hope it meets your (and my) expectations!

[Old_Corny 315]

I spent an hour dry fitting the first of the suspension parts which gives a bit of a lift to the front of the front arms:

 

It turns out that I didn't need to use glue - it was a bit fiddly but I committed!

 

I've also ordered some 2mm, 3mm and 4mm taps because the cheap nasty ones I have are really cheap and nasty!

 

[svenb 4240]

14 minutes ago, Old_Corny said:

 

I've also ordered some 2mm, 3mm and 4mm taps because the cheap nasty ones I have are really cheap and nasty!

 

The thread former is better than a tap as it doesn't really cut a thread,unlike taps.

[TurnipJF 10247]

6 hours ago, svenb said:

The thread former is better than a tap as it doesn't really cut a thread,unlike taps.

I think both types have their place.

If you want to prepare a screw hole so that the screw goes in easily and you don't risk ruining the screw head (which can be a real risk when using aluminium screws for example), then the thread forming tap is a good call as it squishes the thread into the plastic so that your screw doesn't have to. 

However if you want to prepare a screw hole to relieve stress on the surrounding plastic so that it doesn't crack around the hole (such as on TL-01 shock towers or TD2/TD4 knuckles for example) then a conventional tap is better as it cuts away the excess material so that the screw doesn't place any more stress on the hole than it has to. 

[Old_Corny 315]

On 11/10/2024 at 3:17 PM, svenb said:

The thread former is better than a tap as it doesn't really cut a thread,unlike taps.

 

On 11/10/2024 at 6:47 PM, TurnipJF said:

I think both types have their place.

If you want to prepare a screw hole so that the screw goes in easily and you don't risk ruining the screw head (which can be a real risk when using aluminium screws for example), then the thread forming tap is a good call as it squishes the thread into the plastic so that your screw doesn't have to. 

However if you want to prepare a screw hole to relieve stress on the surrounding plastic so that it doesn't crack around the hole (such as on TL-01 shock towers or TD2/TD4 knuckles for example) then a conventional tap is better as it cuts away the excess material so that the screw doesn't place any more stress on the hole than it has to. 

Thank you gentlemen for your input. I didn't even know about the Tamiya thread former - ignorance is bliss! So I found an old thread on here about tapping or not and it seems there is no real consensus - as you would expect!

I'm going to experiment to see what works for me.

[Old_Corny 315]

While waiting for the taps to arrive I spent some time on the dampers (the taps came today so I got to finish them)

 

Made up to the point where I needed the tap, I like the look of these!

 

Interesting that I had to drill the tops of the dampers - most unexpected! Prepping for final assembly...

 

Finished, though the spring seem a bit shorter than I expected

[TurnipJF 10247]

Those are very nice dampers, but don't you need to use the longer shafts with them?

[Old_Corny 315]

4 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Those are very nice dampers, but don't you need to use the longer shafts with them?

I saw that they were compatible with the TC-01 and made the assumption that they were a straight swap. You know what they say about assumptions

A good opportunity to hone my damper rebuilding skills!

[ImALlama 1507]

 

16 hours ago, Old_Corny said:

A good opportunity to hone my damper rebuilding skills!

Need 2 sets of

Tamiya 54043 Trf501x Damper Hard Titanium Coated 49.6mm Piston Rod Rear 

if you want to rebuild with gold shafts, I made the same assumption building one of my TC01s 

[Old_Corny 315]

12 hours ago, ImALlama said:

 

Need 2 sets of

Tamiya 54043 Trf501x Damper Hard Titanium Coated 49.6mm Piston Rod Rear 

if you want to rebuild with gold shafts, I made the same assumption building one of my TC01s 

Instead I went for some bling extenders, going over budget now

[Old_Corny 315]

I bit more progress - assembled then attached front lower arms:

 

Then assembled and fitted the stock rear lower arms

[TurnipJF 10247]

5 hours ago, Old_Corny said:

Instead I went for some bling extenders, going over budget now

They give no performance advantage that I am aware of compared to the stock plastic ones, but they do look nice!

I initially built mine with the stock plastic ones, and when it was done, it seemed to lack a certain something. Something blue. A set of bling blue extenders sorted that right out. (And I tell myself that being stiffer than the stock plastic, they do somehow aid the suspension action...) 😁

[ImALlama 1507]

7 hours ago, Old_Corny said:

Instead I went for some bling extenders, going over budget now

 

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

They give no performance advantage that I am aware of compared to the stock plastic ones, but they do look nice!

I initially built mine with the stock plastic ones, and when it was done, it seemed to lack a certain something. Something blue. A set of bling blue extenders sorted that right out. (And I tell myself that being stiffer than the stock plastic, they do somehow aid the suspension action...) 😁

They sure do look nice, especially with the trf shocks. I couldn't help myself a week or so ago and I too have purchased those blue extenders to add bling to my boring TC , just waiting on their arrival from japan. 

[Old_Corny 315]

14 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

They give no performance advantage that I am aware of compared to the stock plastic ones, but they do look nice!

I initially built mine with the stock plastic ones, and when it was done, it seemed to lack a certain something. Something blue. A set of bling blue extenders sorted that right out. (And I tell myself that being stiffer than the stock plastic, they do somehow aid the suspension action...) 😁

I'd seen them everywhere but wasn't sure how they fitted until I looked at the instructions - I was immediately hooked and bought them. DOn't they say "if it looks good it'll go good"?

[Old_Corny 315]

While waiting for the receiver to arrive I fitted the servo. I want to make sure all the electrics are working before doing more - learned enough lessons already

[skom25 2179]

You should try stiff servo horn. Tamiya Servo Savers are rather bad.

[TurnipJF 10247]

Standard plastic Tamiya servo savers can be a bit on the weak side, but this is a sturdy Hi Torque one with metal springs and a polycarbonate arm. Far stronger than standard. Can't say I have ever broken one even in high speed off-road trucks. It should give many years' good service in a TC-01.

[Old_Corny 315]

18 hours ago, skom25 said:

You should try stiff servo horn. Tamiya Servo Savers are rather bad.

 

17 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Standard plastic Tamiya servo savers can be a bit on the weak side, but this is a sturdy Hi Torque one with metal springs and a polycarbonate arm. Far stronger than standard. Can't say I have ever broken one even in high speed off-road trucks. It should give many years' good service in a TC-01.

Thanks both

I was going to use a straight horn until I looked at the servo saver - as @TurnipJF says, it is quite substantial.

I'll see how it goes!

[Old_Corny 315]

Today I worked on the gearbox assembly, replacing steel with titanium where possible. I had to check many things many times to ensure I had the correct hardware - so many bits look very similar

 

I did remember to cut the bush in half!

 

Using kit gearing

 

Completed gearbox:

 

I have heard about the tight instrallation, which is why I didnt fix the receiver and ESC before fitting the motor etc. Now I can see how tight it is going to be!

 

[Old_Corny 315]

Feeling better in the knowledge that I have options for installation of the electrics, a bit more progress:

 

However There is a "problem" with the ball connectors - I'll post the question in the Build Tips forum

I was expecting that the genuine Tamiya hop-ups and kit ball connectors would work better