Decent, cheap radio gear

[Saito2]

I am not what you'd call "up-to-date" on current technologies. Virtually all my radio gear is Futaba AM stuff, some of it dating back to 80's. Considering the impending tariffs of doom for the US (I love the fact google searches about tariffs spiked after the our country fairly elected the orange man back in office. It wasn't like he was secretive about it.) and my need for a couple radios that I've been putting off, I've decided to make that purchase sooner than later. What 2 channel systems fit the bill of cheap and reasonably reliable? I don't need much in the way of frills aside from typical reversing and trims. I'd prefer systems that stick with AA batteries. Thanks.

 

[Hypoxic]

I have a Radiolink RC4GS V3 and it works well. I’ve had it out in light rain quite a few times with no issues. I paid around 75€ for it. 

[Ray_ve]

I use cheap 2.4GHz 3-channel sets from AliExpress. 2 Transmitters and multiple receivers.

Paid maybe 25 euros per set, seperate receivers are typically less than 10 euros.

[alvinlwh]

My current favourite is HotRC CT-8A or B. Super cheap yet loads of features like battery (car's) voltage on the TX, option of gyro and light control on RX. Also, (for A version), can be powered from 18650 and/or 4 x AA and/or 2S. The B version can only use 18650 but is more compact. Even though super cheap, material actually feels better than a Absima CR3P or a Flysky GT5 (which I also have). 

Another cheap brand but highly rated is BumboRC DDF-335.

[markbt73]

This is one place where I would actually check eBay for kit breakers or used radios. The basic 2.4 ghz radios that come with most RTRs are just fine: Spektrum, Tactic, etc. Most have servo reversing, trims, and often adjustable steering rate too. And they nearly all run on 4xAA batteries instead of 8.

[Dan1891]

12 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

Another cheap brand but highly rated is BumboRC DDF-335

I think you mean DumboRC.

I have an cheaper DumboRC that works great.

[skom25]

Futaba 3PV. However, I am not sure if you will like ergonomics.

I had previously Sanwa MX-6 but it had constant connection issues. Do not buy it.

[Howards]

Radiolink is fine for bashing and club racing. 

[Pablo68]

I used Spektrum. They aren't exactly cheap though. I run a DX4r I think it is. I have two of them, the first one I bought new many years ago now, the second I picked up off FB marketplace locally.
One of my reasons for not updating to something else is that I can get the receivers pretty cheap on Ebay (20~30AUD sometimes cheaper) and each Tx I have stores about 40 vehicles.

The reason I mention this in here is that you may find one cheap, they have stopped making them afaik. I'd have liked to move to the Noble but after shelling out for the Tx the Rx's are pricey.

[ucacjbs]

I’ve a tactic which works just fine. And then I went for the Futaba 3PV for its model memory but have mixed feelings about it - $50 a pop for receivers (tactic ones are $30) and in the end I’m going to end up fiddling with rebinding anyway I suspect since if I’m driving one car, my 6yo  is going to rotate between using another handset in a bunch of others. So that second issue may not pertain to all😊

Both tactic and futaba have been turn-it-on-and-it-works so no complaints for either there. 
 

(both of these are wheel remotes - my last stick was a futaba handset in 1986 or something like that)

[chris.alex]

Flysky GT5 is what I have been using for years and I am very happy with it. Not too big (4xAA), low-priced receivers and reliable.

[chris.alex]

22 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

The B version can only use 18650 but is more compact. 

Very interesting. If I'm no longer happy with my GT5, I'll get a CT8B. I got a few 18650 batteries lying around and I find them much better than the NiMh AA. 

[ADRay1000]

I use Futaba 3PRKAs in my cars.
 

reminds me of the old Magnum Sport. 

[El Gecko]

Flysky for me too. The I4 has been a good cheap basic stick Tx, but if I had to do it all over again I'd go straight for a variation of the I6 (mine is the I6X which was already setup for 10 channels with a 10ch Rx out of the box). The I6 can store up to 20 models and all their individual settings, and has enough bells and whistles to work with any car in my fleet. And their simple 3ch receivers are super cheap, under $10 apiece, not to mention how tiny and lightweight they are. I got a 6-pack of Rx which, combined with the single 6ch and 10ch Rx which came with the Tx, allowed me to outfit 8 cars and run them all on the same Tx for a total of about $100. Both transmitters take 4AA batteries, so they're about half the weight of the old Futaba AM radios I still use in other cars, which is nice for walking/hiking.

You may have seen me make this suggestion before, and obviously the I6 costs a bit more (still cheap for a 6ch Tx/Rx set), but IMHO the big advantage of the I6 over the I4 is EPA (End Point Adjustment). The ability to remove the "dead zone" at the extreme ends of the throttle has been a game changer because it allows full use of the entire range of the stick, no matter what ESC you're using. Some ESCs (Hobbywing 1060 and others) reach full 100% power at only 60% of the throttle stick, but with the EPA cranked down it doesn't reach 100% until the stick just comes into contact with its mechanical stop. This allows for much finer control of the throttle and better overall control of the car, especially high-power 2WD on slippery surfaces. It's actually kind of frustrating trying to drive the I4 now that I'm used to the I6 with EPA, because the I4 acts more like an on/off switch similar to the old MSCs and it's much easier to overcook it coming out of a turn.

[Tamiya Fan 1]

Futaba is still the better buy, for reliable and quality. And my choice. But more $$$$. Radiolink and Flysky are good choices for a cheaper price. Some times in the 2 channel choices Futaba might not to much more. They always are consistant, reliable, switches/knobs have better feel of quality. Why they cost more.

The futaba 3PKRA is my choice. Gives you an extra channel (3) to run lights remotely or somthing else. It's about $100. Has a good feel in your hand also.

[Saito2]

Thanks for all the suggestions everybody!

[El Gecko]

One more thing I forgot to mention about EPA: it keeps your servos alive.

With the I4, I burned out 2 of the cheapo MG996 servos in short order, because they were always pushing against the servo saver at the limits.

I haven't killed a servo since I switched to the I6 and was able to set the steering EPA to stop before everything binds up mechanically.

[ThunderDragonCy]

If all your old gear is sticks and you don't get on trigger and wheel the Flysky FSi6 would be my recommendation. It's what I went for after my old ACOMS and I really like it. The adjustable steering rates and things are super useful, and 20 model memory is great. Receivers are cheap. It does need a bit of surgery to lock off the gimbals because it's for planes, but the kit to do that is cheap and readily available, and someone of your experience tinkering will have no trouble getting it sorted. 

I have no idea how much better the higher quality radios are, but I have quite happily club raced with mine and it certainly wasn't the radio holding me back!

[Wooders28]

On 12/21/2024 at 8:48 PM, Saito2 said:

I don't need much in the way of frills aside from typical reversing and trims. I'd prefer systems that stick with AA batteries. Thanks.

 

As modern 2.4 systems go, it's not overflowing with features, but probably all you'd need !

 

https://www.racing-cars.com/radio-gear/radio-sets/sanwa-gemini-sport-radio-set-with-rx391w-sa101a32871a?returnurl=%2fradio-gear%2fradio-sets%2f

 

[magnumb]

Only one really decent radio for the price and it's RadioLink....has been the go to budget radio for years now. Plus they are comfortable to use...which can't be said for a lot of budget brands