So, What Have You Done Today? (Vol 2 2025)

[chris.alex]

I recently learned that there are two types of rally for model cars. 1. RC Rally: a very narrow track, where you run behind your car. 2. Rallycross: a regular race, where you stand on the driver's platform.

Yesterday, we tried the first type. My friend from the RC club drove a TT02 Ford with custom steering and an MF01X Porsche. I had the XV02 Alfa, XM01 NSU, and MF01X BMW with me. A small turning circle is definitely an advantage, as is a short gear ratio. It's more fun than I thought, and I didn't trip. 🙂

[TurnipJF]

4 hours ago, MadAnt said:

After all that, all I can do is get 31mph, it just too crazy at higher speed and the handling gets a bit twitchy and wonders a bit, so I never gave it the full beans. 

The wondering is probably due to the lack of caster, so I'll have to do something about that.

Lack of rear toe would also be a factor. 53345 toe-in rear hubs help. 

[Nikko85]

No amazing activity photos, but I was able to add a better gearbox to my third CR12 derived truck.

The team associated CR12 platform is pretty versatile, but the gearbox isn't great and I've had gears completely fail. Thankfully the Element Enduro12 gearbox drops right in.

I'm now working on a final monster truck in this series. This will be brushless and use the element gearbox as well as Carisma SCE-1A axles. 

If I can get it working I will go for a modern short course truck body for a modern monster truck look.

 

 

 

[markbt73]

Still working on the Poor Boys RC speed run idea, but I've decided I don't care how fast I go. I only care about how cool I look going fast...

And I'm still doing it without spending any money on anything new, hence the car's name.

[MadAnt]

6 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Lack of rear toe would also be a factor. 53345 toe-in rear hubs help. 

Mine has some rear toe, I'm using the rear knuckles for the M-06 if I remember. The front end wonders a bit at high speed unless I keep it under 28mph. I will use a different more aerodynamic body next time and order some new C hubs that give me some caster.

[Kowalski86]

I threw a new body onto the Rustler, cheap baja bug shell on Stampede mounts. It's not pretty but it's my most versatile RC.

[ChrisRx718]

My Off Road buggies appear to be breeding. I only turned my back for a moment...

[No Slack]

On 6/16/2025 at 4:32 AM, MadAnt said:

Took the TL-01 BMW M3 out for a speed run. It's got a 4300kv brushless Hobbywing EZ run motor, so the power is ballistic. Things got a little hairy under braking and I had a couple of violent rollovers. After all that, all I can do is get 31mph, it just too crazy at higher speed and the handling gets a bit twitchy and wonders a bit, so I never gave it the full beans. 

The wondering is probably due to the lack of caster, so I'll have to do something about that.

A TL-01 has negative caster. On my TL-01 I changed the C-hubs for TB-01's and you get positive caster for a stable chassis.

[River19]

Started the first several steps of building a BBX to replace the DT-04 in the Silver Can race class I have been running.  

Still love the DT-04 for it's "fun" aspect however as the class gets more competitive the limitations of the DT gearbox and gearing options with the Torque Tuned motor are a challenge.

Plus, the BBX is cool, and it gives me an excuse to build one and campaign it in the weekly club races in addition to the high dollar cars in the other classes.

[Nick-W]

After a couple of months of work/life based hiatus I finally found a few hours on Sunday to get back to the Turbo Optima. 
A couple of frustrating issues. One caused by me when I realised I’d put the front suspension mount in upside down. Another caused by a two missing parts. Nothing that slowed the build down but kinda surprising after a few years of Tamiya’s quality control.

 

 

[Kowalski86]

Heres an update on the RC10, I ended up doing a handful of changes to make it run better:

1. The previous owner did a nice job with basically everything...except for the awful 25kg servo, imprecise and prone to brown outs. Replaced it for a cheap Injora low profile servo that doesn't act up. Also, I the stock gear cover had cracked so RPM to save the day.

2. Fresh shock oil and rear droop adjustment to eliminate the dogbone chatter, and reduce bodyroll.

3. Replaced the HW1060/directly soldered Reedy motor with a deans plug HW1060 and a sealed Kyosho 14t motor. Similar speed but now it runs cooler.

[MadAnt]

4 hours ago, No Slack said:

A TL-01 has negative caster. On my TL-01 I changed the C-hubs for TB-01's and you get positive caster for a stable chassis.

The TL-01 has 0° of caster, I am aware of the TB-01 C hubs, but they are not easy to get anymore. However, I just need to do a little search for GF-01 C hubs and BAM! Plenty of choices for 6° C hubs. I just ordered two sets which I should have sometime in a week or two.

Also, I've been staring at the C-hubs for the TT-02B and wonder if they can be easily retrofitted?🤔

[Nikko85]

Finished off the chassis part of a CR12 Bigfoot 18.

This is on a Funtek CR12 chassis which uses Carisma SCA 1E axles but I upgraded with an element Enduro12 gearbox. Traxxas 1/16 slash body and Tamiya wheels. 

Running a brushless motor. I need to strip and repaint the body as I used the wrong paint which is flaking off. It was acrylic based paint, great for hard bodies not so great for lexan.

I've got three of these CR12s now, so I should do a little review 4x4 section. Oh...4x4 gets a cool little font thing... nice feature!

[Kowalski86]

After running the Rustler I encountered two problems:

1. The metal Traxxas pinion gear crumbled as I removed it around the grub screw, unfortunately the sites bugging up so I can't share the picture.

2. The plastic idler gear lost half of its teeth, so it's getting replaced.

[Kowalski86]

2 hours ago, Nikko85 said:

I've got three of these CR12s now, so I should do a little review 4x4 section. Oh...4x4 gets a cool little font thing... nice feature!

There is next to no information online about the CR12 or Element12 platforms, anything that you post would be quite useful for anyone wanting to modify either platform.

[mtbkym01]

Ordered a Losi Micro T , will likely pick it up this weekend from my LHS. I figured I’ve got the original one from over 10 years ago (1/32? scale) so talked myself into “needing” this new one to go with it. Sounds a bit crazy when I read that out loud  

[Thommo]

Sounds a bit crazy that you read out loud !   🌴

[Juhunio]

Applied a final finishing touch to another fun-but-foolish bits-a-build project, fitting these lovely aluminium body posts to my TA04R-Tuned(ish)

It's an 'ish' because the TA04R-Tuned used SSG carbon damper stays and the front stay doesn't have space to mount body posts, you could only attach body posts to the bumper.

But Tamiya also made a full set of TA04 plates out of standard carbon, which did have space for body posts over the dampers, so I used those instead.

This means it can be set up as per the TA04R-Tuned intended use, with med-narrow rims and body that's undrilled so you can drill it to accept bumper-mounted body posts...

...or it can be set up with a 'standard' bumper mount and body posts on the damper stays...

...which makes it compatible with all Tamiya 26mm rims and pre-drilled body shells, including this vintage R390 GT1

So it's a TA04R-Tuned with the flexibility to take any combination of rims and body shells; the best of both worlds!

To be honest those aluminium body posts are only really there to pay lip service to the original TA04R-Tuned specification. The whole purpose of building mine with carbon plates was to make it compatible with pre-drilled body shells so the intention is that it will always have body posts on the damper stays.

[Juhunio]

Double post, my second today 🤦🏻‍♂️. I keep hitting what I think is 'Edit' and is actually 'Quote'. I'll get used to the new layout at some point I'm sure 👴🏻

[BlueMallard]

Been planning a garage I’m building for my Alpine A110 today!

[chris.alex]

Fortunately, the opportunities to drive my rally cars are increasing. On the XM01 NSU Prinz, I removed / cut off the front spoiler and glued on the rally tires (which I had forgotten to do).

My XV02 also got rally tires.

And my race car (TT02SR) got softer oil in the rear shocks for more grip. 

[Gratuit]

I went to the track with the DT03 and the Super Monster Beetle project (that has now a F100 body). Had some fun and some problems, I'll give more explanations in the respective threads as soon as I have some time to do it  

 

[mtbkym01]

Ok, having image issues with Flickr, trying a TCPhotos link

[img]https://tcphotos.net/images/2025/01/01/IMG_8390.jpeg[/img]

https://tcphotos.net/image/c8Eyv

 

 

[Rinskie]

Yesterday I decided to open the GF-01 up to do some diff maintenance. I wanted the diffs to spin freely because I like to drive it in tight spaces and could use the extra turning freedom. 

I built the diffs with crawling in mind so I packed them with Tamiya's diff putty to more or less lock them. I can assure each and everyone of you that I will never again use that stuff. It goes in like silly putty but melted inside the diffs to turn into this goopy, sticky slim that was a pain to get off. Thankfully the GF-01 diff gears are pot metal so I was able to soak them for several hours in solvent. I also decided I will never open it back up again. It was simply too much work. 

[MadAnt]

1 hour ago, Rinskie said:

Yesterday I decided to open the GF-01 up to do some diff maintenance. I wanted the diffs to spin freely because I like to drive it in tight spaces and could use the extra turning freedom. 

I built the diffs with crawling in mind so I packed them with Tamiya's diff putty to more or less lock them. I can assure each and everyone of you that I will never again use that stuff. It goes in like silly putty but melted inside the diffs to turn into this goopy, sticky slim that was a pain to get off. Thankfully the GF-01 diff gears are pot metal so I was able to soak them for several hours in solvent. I also decided I will never open it back up again. It was simply too much work. 

Just place a bevel gear in between the other two and it's locked. No putty, no JB weld, no aftermarket inserts.