OnTheTrail 1417 Posted January 20 <I'm guessing this has been discussed previously but I wasn't able to find a post with a search> This is a trick I learned years ago when flying precision aerobatics. I thought to share this as I got an aftermarket TT02 steering linkage set and the ball ends were somewhat tight. On a test fit, I could feel they effected the movement of the suspension as well as the turning of the steering hubs. As we know, most ball links are metal ball into plastic and as such, sometimes can be too tight. In the airplanes this was real critical to have the ball links to be tight (i.e. not allow any play) but still articulate very smoothly. To do this you need to find the exact same size screw as the I.D. of the ball. Then you need to clamp that down with a nut on the other side. Only need to cinch it fairly tight, don't need to death lock it. Then you take the exposed threads and chuck them up in a high speed Dremel tool. What you're going to do it essentially spin the ball very fast inside of the plastic ball end. That said it is critical that you only burst the Dremel to high speed on and immediately off. You're basically using friction to burnish in the ball to the inner race of the plastic ball link. AGAIN, only use an instant on and off with the Dremel. You can do it many cycles if needed but if you leave it on for too long, you WILL melt plastic. You can wobble the ball around too to get other areas smoothed out. Check it each time until it feels just right. The goal is to have the ball articulated freely in every axis (including rotation) without allowing any slop. Occasionally it feels perfect when you just finish up but may tightened up ever slightly again after the piece cools a little. Not biggie, just chuck it back up and burst one more time. Hope this helps. 9 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hypoxic 812 Posted January 20 Haven’t heard of that trick before. Thanks, I’ll give it a whirl! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
El Gecko 1673 Posted January 20 Seems a bit overkill and potentially risky. I just drip a drop of lube in there and everything loosens right up, quick and easy. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guggles 367 Posted February 4 If your anywhere near as clumsy as me, you let go of the link and have an unbalance single blade helicopter of death in your hand! Best be careful! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 13 On 1/20/2025 at 3:44 PM, El Gecko said: Seems a bit overkill and potentially risky. I just drip a drop of lube in there and everything loosens right up, quick and easy. What kind of lubricant? I'm new to the hobby and have this issue with the front arm suspension ball end joints of my re re HS2 build. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
El Gecko 1673 Posted February 14 23 hours ago, Tigerstyle131 said: What kind of lubricant? I'm new to the hobby and have this issue with the front arm suspension ball end joints of my re re HS2 build. I'm not sure if it's sold under other names, but I use Tri-Flow which is technically a bicycle lubricant, but works well on all sorts of RC stuff too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 14 21 minutes ago, El Gecko said: I'm not sure if it's sold under other names, but I use Tri-Flow which is technically a bicycle lubricant, but works well on all sorts of RC stuff too. I will search for it or whatever is similar and available for me! Do I drop it on top of the already assembled arm joint or do I need to disassemble again to apply it over the ball joints? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bsy2010 365 Posted February 14 I do not recommend any lubricant in areas that are exposed to dirt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 14 18 minutes ago, bsy2010 said: I do not recommend any lubricant in areas that are exposed to dirt What's your recommendation? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ad456 551 Posted February 15 Would graphite dust for locks be a good option? Nothing for dirt to stick to, no residues to remove if changing to another lubricant and it’s a cheap as it comes. It would also be fine on plastic or metal balls I’d imagine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 15 2 hours ago, ad456 said: Would graphite dust for locks be a good option? Nothing for dirt to stick to, no residues to remove if changing to another lubricant and it’s a cheap as it comes. It would also be fine on plastic or metal balls I’d imagine. I'm a rookie, so you'd have to tell me honestly. Lol! If it's a safe and good option to use, I can definitely get some to use? I looked it up and seems to be effective for locksmith use. I can see how I wouldn't have to worry about dust. As long as it doesn't have any negative effects on the joints of my buggy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ad456 551 Posted February 15 It’s what I use on my Clod Buster CVDs and a few others so I don’t create grinding paste. It’s seemed to work fine but haven’t tried it on ball ends yet but the theory “feels” sound. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 15 4 hours ago, ad456 said: It’s what I use on my Clod Buster CVDs and a few others so I don’t create grinding paste. It’s seemed to work fine but haven’t tried it on ball ends yet but the theory “feels” sound. Well it's not expensive and I found a good brand to try on Amazon. Extra fine is what I should choose I take it? Also can I apply directly on the ball joints while still connected to the knuckle assembly? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ad456 551 Posted February 15 I’m not 100% sure as I just bought some stuff for locks as I had a sticky lock over a decade ago. The label is all in Chinese so I’m a bit lost as to what it says. I stripped the parts and rubbed it in, reassembled and put more on then but for ball ends I’d just do it assembled and keep adding and working it in until satisfied or bored. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rinskie 1318 Posted February 18 In my old helicopter days, the sweet trick was to gently squeeze the sides of the ball cups with pliers. You'l develop a feel for it but when done right, it produces a nice smooth movement with no slop. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 18 12 hours ago, Rinskie said: In my old helicopter days, the sweet trick was to gently squeeze the sides of the ball cups with pliers. You'l develop a feel for it but when done right, it produces a nice smooth movement with no slop. I will try that on them. Thank you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
guggles 367 Posted February 18 my recommendation for a lubricant: https://www.whitelightningco.com/products/lubricants/clean-ride Goes on wet and drys to a wax film that does not attract dirt and can definitely help smooth out driveshafts, ball cups and other joints. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tigerstyle131 31 Posted February 18 3 hours ago, guggles said: my recommendation for a lubricant: https://www.whitelightningco.com/products/lubricants/clean-ride Goes on wet and drys to a wax film that does not attract dirt and can definitely help smooth out driveshafts, ball cups and other joints. This is a pretty cool product! I looked up the link you sent. Will grab a bottle to try on my Buggy and mountain bike!! Thanks for letting me know. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
