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TT02 motor with more punch

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17 hours ago, NUFCRc said:

Looks like another expensive little project as I use spektrum (idiot proof) lipos. They're all EC3/IC3 connectors so would need the esc to have those as well. 

This is probably the best page for lipo advice (although looks to be full of adverts now...🤦‍♂️), long read but everything is there.

https://www.rogershobbycenter.com/lipoguide/ 

As long as you buy your charger and lipos from a (if i can remember the BRCA wording), 'reputable outlet to the model industry' (ie, NO eBay / Amazon rubbish), you'll be fine, (eg Modelsport), as they don't sell junk.

Once you've cut your teeth, and fancy a gamble, that's upto you (unless your racing, as then the BRCA rule applies).

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17 hours ago, sosidge said:

 

I shall bite the bullet and order some lipos. I've been extra safe with the spektrum bad boys so I'm sure I can follow the same practice for the other brands. I was thinking about upgrading my monster beetle and lunch box,  MB will get an aluminium chassis, LB will get the carbon fibre one. I will want lipo power for these two eventually anyway. Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it🙏

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3 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

After keep getting told this, I tried , and once I got them not to melt, found them too bulky, and wasn't worth the effort to swap my fleet.

20221129_221401

 

On the modelsport site for 2s lipo , 47 deans options, 17 for XT60 

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/electric/batteries/74v-2s/76v-2s-lihv? 

I've run deans upto 5s, and that's when they got a bit troubled, where i really needed an anti spark.

No idea how you managed that.

 

Yes they are a little bigger, but I run XT60 in many models, including down to 1/18th scale as well as a lot of RC Planes. They are fine and a lot less fiddly than the Deans. I'd also say the non genuine Deans can be horrid too. I do use Dean for brushed motor wires instead of the flakey Tamiya bullet connectors. But mush have maybe a 100 items with XT60's on.

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1 hour ago, Wooders28 said:

As long as you buy your charger and lipos from a (if i can remember the BRCA wording), 'reputable outlet to the model industry' (ie, NO eBay / Amazon rubbish), you'll be fine, (eg Modelsport), as they don't sell junk.

I don't agree at all with this. eBay and Amazon are market places, so lots of sellers. No reason to avoid entirely. And places like Modelsport often sell the exact same items, but you may well pay more for them. And yes, they can still be junk sometimes too.

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25 minutes ago, Losi XXT-CR said:

No idea how you managed that.

100w iron I always use, but had to swap to my smaller iron, to stop the case melting 🤷‍♂️.

26 minutes ago, Losi XXT-CR said:

I'd also say the non genuine Deans can be horrid too.

I've a good few 'T Plug' I got out of Hobbyking, and the caps make it look a factory job (once you remember to slide the cover over the wires BEFORE soldering..🙄🤦‍♂️),  even if the soldering isn't pretty. They're probably not high a current rating as the genuine plugs, but they're not pulling anywhere near their limits, anything high current i have, is running 5mm plugs (liHv).

 

28 minutes ago, Losi XXT-CR said:

I don't agree at all with this. eBay and Amazon are market places, so lots of sellers. No reason to avoid entirely. And places like Modelsport often sell the exact same items, but you may well pay more for them. And yes, they can still be junk sometimes too.

There's a reason the BRCA brought out their ruling. Too many genuine looking fakes about from lots of unknown sellers, (Amazon just had to recall a load of chargers..), the Imax B6 was notorious for it (think hobbyking sold genuine and 'copy' at one point?). 

Charge bags are another, aye you can get them for a quid on ebay, but you only find out they're only actually as good as a Tesco bag, when its too late. (Can't find the YouTube bag test vid atm..) 

Modelsport have been around for half a century, and just don't sell rubbish, so a newbie knows it's genuine, and if there happens to be a manufacturing fault, it's effortless to contact them, and change (I had a bad servo a few years back, and the new replacement one arrived the morning after I phoned,  before I'd had chance to send the old back!). 

So for a newbie, 100% keep to a decent modelshop, then like I say ,once you've cut your teeth 🤷‍♂️

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25 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

100w iron I always use, but had to swap to my smaller iron, to stop the case melting 🤷‍♂️.

I've a good few 'T Plug' I got out of Hobbyking, and the caps make it look a factory job (once you remember to slide the cover over the wires BEFORE soldering..🙄🤦‍♂️),  even if the soldering isn't pretty. They're probably not high a current rating as the genuine plugs, but they're not pulling anywhere near their limits, anything high current i have, is running 5mm plugs (liHv).

 

There's a reason the BRCA brought out their ruling. Too many genuine looking fakes about from lots of unknown sellers, (Amazon just had to recall a load of chargers..), the Imax B6 was notorious for it (think hobbyking sold genuine and 'copy' at one point?). 

Charge bags are another, aye you can get them for a quid on ebay, but you only find out they're only actually as good as a Tesco bag, when its too late. (Can't find the YouTube bag test vid atm..) 

Modelsport have been around for half a century, and just don't sell rubbish, so a newbie knows it's genuine, and if there happens to be a manufacturing fault, it's effortless to contact them, and change (I had a bad servo a few years back, and the new replacement one arrived the morning after I phoned,  before I'd had chance to send the old back!). 

So for a newbie, 100% keep to a decent modelshop, then like I say ,once you've cut your teeth 🤷‍♂️

I had one of those IMAX B6 chargers. I think it died on the 5th or 6th charge cycle. That was bought on ebay. I only buy chargers from modelsport or wheelspin models nowadays. 

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2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

100w iron I always use, but had to swap to my smaller iron, to stop the case melting 🤷‍♂️.

tbh I've never melted an XT60 with a soldering iron. Although for soldering plugs a 100w would seem over kill if you can't adjust the temperature. A 25w iron will do fine. I have melted loads and loads of Deans style T connectors...., never to the point of not rescuing them. But they melt very easily when soldering them.

 

2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

There's a reason the BRCA brought out their ruling.

I bet there isn't. I'm on plenty of committees and all the time everywhere they make stupid rules without ever considering reality or facts.

 

2 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

Too many genuine looking fakes about from lots of unknown sellers, (Amazon just had to recall a load of chargers..), the Imax B6 was notorious for it (think hobbyking sold genuine and 'copy' at one point?). 

Charge bags are another, aye you can get them for a quid on ebay, but you only find out they're only actually as good as a Tesco bag, when its too late. (Can't find the YouTube bag test vid atm..) 

Modelsport have been around for half a century, and just don't sell rubbish, so a newbie knows it's genuine, and if there happens to be a manufacturing fault, it's effortless to contact them, and change (I had a bad servo a few years back, and the new replacement one arrived the morning after I phoned,  before I'd had chance to send the old back!). 

So for a newbie, 100% keep to a decent modelshop, then like I say ,once you've cut your teeth 🤷‍♂️

I just can't agree with this, it just doesn't make logical sense and is devoid of any facts or proof.

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2 hours ago, NUFCRc said:

I had one of those IMAX B6 chargers. I think it died on the 5th or 6th charge cycle. That was bought on ebay. I only buy chargers from modelsport or wheelspin models nowadays. 

I have a B6. Bought it when I got back into RC's, that was 2012 I think. And it came from eBay.

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I put a Super Stock TZ in mine the other day and it don't half sound a lot more noisy...almost to the point where I'm thinking have I done something wrong or not? I'm sure even when I used to run brushless in it that it wasn't that loud.

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On 2/9/2025 at 9:04 PM, Kowalski86 said:

I would agree, but 12T Titan motors have trouble fitting into TT02s. Compared to most brushed motors they have abnormally long motor shafts.

I cut the shafts with a Dremel. ZIP!

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On 2/10/2025 at 5:00 PM, ABigChungus said:

I put a Super Stock TZ in mine the other day and it don't half sound a lot more noisy...almost to the point where I'm thinking have I done something wrong or not? I'm sure even when I used to run brushless in it that it wasn't that loud.

Maybe the meshing isn't quite right?

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Quite possibly, may be jusssst that little bit too tight. Either that or one of the plastic diff gears may have started to strip? Either way I am planning on swapping to the oil diffs after putting one in my BT01 and being impressed with it.

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