Which onroad nitro for a beginner?

[Rijkvv 97]

It looks like I'm starting with nitro, for bashing mainly, later this year if budget allows it. For now I'm looking mainly at RTR onroad models, and because they're quite expensive it's possible that I'll only stick to one car. With that in mind, I saw three possibilities: the Kyosho FW06 with Alpine body, the HPI WR8 3.0 with Impreza body, or the Kyosho Inferno GT2 with Mercedes body, from least to most expensive.

-I checked the manuals of the FW06 and HPI, and the break-in procedure of the HPI seems easy to follow, the Kyosho I find confusing (and I assume the same procedure is used for the big one). That being said, I've read somewhere else that you can use every break-in procedure for every nitro engine.

-From what I understand is that both Kyoshos have a two-speed transmission. Sounds interesting to me.

-I've read that the HPI servos aren't very good, getting a few better ones would add to the cost. How about the Kyosho servos?

-the FW06 is 1/10, the other two are called 1/8. That sounds less common to me if I ever need a new body set? Is there a standard for 1/8 like there is for 1/10, and would both larger cars fit those standard body sets? I've read that the HPI is a bit of an oddity scale-wise.

-Both Kyosho models seem to no longer be in production?

What do you guys recommend? 

[Guest]

Kyosho, I know a guy who started with kyosho and still uses them today. 

[guggles 367]

Do you have any experience in nitro? Do you know anyone with lot of experience in nitro?

I would say the most important part of getting started in nitro is having someone with experience to teach you. All the other stuff doesnt really matter if you cant get the car running well and dont have fun with it!

The big detriment to nitro is you really need first hand experience to understand it. What usually happens is people get them, cant get them running right and get discouraged and move on. Its really sad because its such a rewarding and enjoyable experience in the RC hobby. (if you know what you are doing). I would research alot, and prepare to get really frustrated and not have the car run well or at all until you get more practice. If you are willing to invest this time and energy into learning about it then go for it! 

Some tips I think will help:

It doesnt matter what method you break the engine in, any method will work. The claims of engine lifespan and performance are purely anecdotal from different break in methods. I would do the method of running the engine at temperature for a few tanks idling and start driving the car around gently for a few more tanks and then start tuning the top so it is still a little rich but runs well. 

Use a hair dryer or a heat gun to heat the engine up to around 200* F and do this for the first half dozen times you go and run the engine. Will make the piston not get stuck and make starting easier.

When starting the engine use throttle trim or your finger on the gas and give it just a little throttle until it starts easily and keeps running. Keep the engine at a high idle (not more than 1/4 throttle though) for about 5 minutes to heat it up. then go and run the car at factory settings or your last tune if the weather is similar for about half a tank and observe the performance. it should be a little slow and sluggish  at first but after about a half a tank or so it should start to run right. The biggest trap to get stuck in is tuning too much and too quickly. If the engine has a super high pitched and dry sounding noise at the top end with no smoke (lean), richen 2 hours on HSN and see the change. 

A new engine will be harder to keep a really consistent and pefect tune on the low end. This is because of the internal engine friction and pinch. Dont focus to much on having the engine start perfect everytime or run at a perfect low idle all the time, just try and keep it running and make sure the top has good fuel. If it dies oh well start it up again and fiddle around with it a bit. 

 

Remember make small changes and be patient, and also have fun!

 

 

 

 

[Rijkvv 97]

Thanks for the tips. I don't know anyone with experience though. The LHS, but I don't know how willing they are to help if I got my car from somewhere else. The nitro brands that they offer don't appeal to me.

[mtbkym01 4875]

There’s some great advice there from @guggles. You can also watch video’s from the likes of Adam Drake, Elliott Boots and some of the other “pro” nitro racers, they really know their stuff. Something else to consider, the larger engines like .21 up to .28 will have a larger tuning “window” that the smaller .12, .15, .18 engines, so things like the Kyosho GT2 (Basically a Kyosho 1/8 buggy) will likely be easier to get to run consistently as you learn about running Nitro. One thing I will say, there is nothing like driving a nicely tuned nitro car/buggy, the connection you feel to it is next level in my opinion.

[Rijkvv 97]

Thanks for the suggestions. The Kyosho GT2 happens to be the most expensive of the three I had in mind unfortunately, and then I begin to wonder if I should then just spend the extra euro's to get a petrol car so I can run less expensive petrol. Those things are huge though.

I might be inexperienced, but the mechanical stuff has my interest. Tractor pulling, motorsports, and guns instead of missiles in the military. More modern stuff might be more efficient, but often lacks the emotion. I've driven a BMW I4, very fast and impressive, but it didn't put the grin on my face a few less fast cars with combustion engines did.

As for patience: I have a son of six months who doesn't know the difference between day and night yet and I'm not yet insane, I think I have a bit of patience. 

[mtbkym01 4875]

Go for a Nitro!! 

[Rijkvv 97]

On 3/7/2025 at 10:53 AM, mtbkym01 said:

things like the Kyosho GT2 (Basically a Kyosho 1/8 buggy)

This makes me wonder: are spares of this chassis still reasonable to get, does this share parts with other chassis? I'm a bit leaning towards one of the Kyoshos, partly because I like the idea of a two-speed, partly because of the odd scale of the HPI and I already have a couple of Imprezas, and I like the bodies on the Kyoshos. If I'm going to get one nitro I might as well go for an 1:8 (undecided yet due to the difference in price) but that one seems discontinued. If spares are hard to get I might go for one of the other two options. 

[mtbkym01 4875]

From memory, the Kyosho GT2 is based on the MP7.5 or MP777 buggy line. So parts may be harder to get these days (Not sure if Kyosho still produce them)

[Rijkvv 97]

Thanks. I love that Mercedes body, but it may be wise to look for another chassis. That made me think: I do like the idea of a slightly larger car, so 1/8, but are there any alternative RTR's, preferably long wheelbase? I thought about the Serpent SRX (I think), but that one is short wheelbase and even if I buy a body of an actual car it still might look silly.

[sosidge 777]

I would advise you not to get a nitro. It's a dying technology, you will struggle to even find cars on the market, and struggle even more for support. Even when running at their best they are temperamental. I'm 99% certain you will not enjoy the experience.

I understand that smelly, noisy cars have an appeal to some people, but the vast majority of people who would have bought a nitro basher 10-20 years ago are now buying electric ones. They are faster, quieter, cleaner and all round easier to use and easier to have actual fun with.

Nitro is very anti-social and people have a very low tolerance for them. A lot of race tracks have been prevented from running nitro - and these are tracks that are on the edge of nowhere.

Although petrol powered cars are more reliable you will still have the issues with noise and the sheer size of them makes them quite hard to deal with unless you know what you are getting into. They're also declining in popularity compared to their peak 10+ years ago, you are more likely to find people running huge motors and batteries in their 1/5 scale cars instead.

[Rijkvv 97]

Thanks but I made up my mind. I'm not asking whether or not to start with nitro, I'm asking with which car to start with nitro.

Just as I posted: there are cars available, some of them still in production (HPI, Serpent, and I wonder which others). They're not THAT hard to get hold of. I discovered that HPI will release the WR8 3.0 soon with a Ford Escort body so that's more interesting than the Impreza for me, but the odd scale and lack of two-speed remains.

[mtbkym01 4875]

On 3/25/2025 at 10:58 PM, sosidge said:

I would advise you not to get a nitro. It's a dying technology, you will struggle to even find cars on the market, and struggle even more for support. Even when running at their best they are temperamental. I'm 99% certain you will not enjoy the experience.

I understand that smelly, noisy cars have an appeal to some people, but the vast majority of people who would have bought a nitro basher 10-20 years ago are now buying electric ones. They are faster, quieter, cleaner and all round easier to use and easier to have actual fun with.

 

A modern Nitro is far less temperamental than a car from 10-20 years ago. In fact, I see more electric cars go up in smoke at my club than any of the nitro buggies. A Nitro buggy or car can run continuously if you keep fuel up to it, an electric car needs battery changing and/or charging. And let’s not forget the continuous heat build up. 

There is no need to discourage anyone for their RC preference, each have advantages and disadvantages. Let’s all enjoy all our RC’s whatever your preference

[Dangerous_Beard 176]

On 3/25/2025 at 12:28 PM, sosidge said:

I would advise you not to get a nitro. It's a dying technology, you will struggle to even find cars on the market, and struggle even more for support. Even when running at their best they are temperamental. I'm 99% certain you will not enjoy the experience.

I understand that smelly, noisy cars have an appeal to some people, but the vast majority of people who would have bought a nitro basher 10-20 years ago are now buying electric ones. They are faster, quieter, cleaner and all round easier to use and easier to have actual fun with.

Nitro is very anti-social and people have a very low tolerance for them. A lot of race tracks have been prevented from running nitro - and these are tracks that are on the edge of nowhere.

Although petrol powered cars are more reliable you will still have the issues with noise and the sheer size of them makes them quite hard to deal with unless you know what you are getting into. They're also declining in popularity compared to their peak 10+ years ago, you are more likely to find people running huge motors and batteries in their 1/5 scale cars instead.

It certainly isn't dying, it just isn't as popular as it once was. There are quite a few nitro guys near me, I know of at least two that go to regular meets. Yes some of the older stuff was discontinued, many engines you can't find parts for but there are alternatives-including building your own engines. It isn't a popular topic on many forums these days that's probably why you think it is dying. 

[Dangerous_Beard 176]

4 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:

A modern Nitro is far less temperamental than a car from 10-20 years ago. In fact, I see more electric cars go up in smoke at my club than any of the nitro buggies. A Nitro buggy or car can run continuously if you keep fuel up to it, an electric car needs battery changing and/or charging. And let’s not forget the continuous heat build up. 

There is no need to discourage anyone for their RC preference, each have advantages and disadvantages. Let’s all enjoy all our RC’s whatever your preference

Well said.

[Re-Bugged 12017]

On 3/28/2025 at 2:55 PM, Rijkvv said:

I discovered that HPI will release the WR8 3.0 soon with a Ford Escort body so that's more interesting than the Impreza for me

That announcement got me a bit excited too 😃

[njmlondon 804]

I have always thought about jumping into Nitro but always bottled it, mainly because I have nowhere to run something that will annoy everyone else! One thing has caught my attention recently, the Team Associated RC10GT. It looks awesome and is surprisingly not overly expensive (although you do need to buy the engine separately).

As a kit, I personally think it a far better place to start than RTR. Building kits taught me everything and this is another reason why I find myself tempted to jump in.

Good luck with whatever you go with and keep us posted on your final decision.

 

[Rijkvv 97]

Maybe building a kit is a good idea (though the LHS disagreed), but I won't try a Team Associated kit just yet after reading that other topic. Besides I want to stick with touring or rally cars, this one doesn't appeal to me. I realize now I didn't point that out.

[RedLizardon 83]

I didn't know the FW06 came as an RTR. I bought one last year, and it came as a kit. It was actually the first ever kit I built!

[Juggular 5232]

In 2010 or so, I heard the distinctive noise of a nitro engine sputtering outside my work.  Somebody was trying hard to get it going, but was doing it too rich.  He was so new to it, he was yet to know the term, "needle."  (I think he said he bought the used nitro the night before).  In that case, having somebody who knows something would help.  But in the era of everything-youtube, it wouldn't be too hard to figure things out on your own.   

Nitro is finickier than electric for sure. If you think about it, you are dealing with live flames. Unlike the modern 1:1, you don't have a computer doing things for you.  Air temperature, engine temperature, moisture, percentage of nitro, even air pressure on that day can make things different.  If you expect that you need to adjust every single time, you'll do fine.  Engines come assembled, so it's not like you can put the one-way bearing the wrong way.  

Assembling is 85% the same as electric chassis. If you don't pinch the fuel hose somewhere along the way, or leave out the clutch springs, it will go fine.  

You would need some extra glow plugs of the right temperature rating, an igniter, fuel, a separate battery pack for your receiver and servo.  4AA batteries might not work for a power hungry digital servo.  It's important to cap the fuel as soon as you are done with fueling.  Nitro loves to suck moisture out of air and ruin itself.  

You can try to get used to the Nitro driving before you even buy a nitro.  Since most nitro cannot reverse, driving forward-only can give you a taste of it.