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Posted

Being an absolute beginner and therefor sucking up any advice I can get...

Just ordered the R620-kit which should arrive tomorrow. MFC-03, FS-i6X and some other bits and pieces already in the house. As preparation for the build, I have read through the downloaded instructions for the R620 and MFC-03 and taken a look at a couple of pretty helpful YT-clips (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Z8oEbINRos&list=WL&index=42 and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lDLtVaIE5ic&list=WL&index=39).

I get a bit confused though. Both of the youtubers set things up to control 'Gear' with a 3-way switch, but still use the gimbal for 'Switching'. Being swedish I may face a lingual issue here, I would have thought 'Gear' and 'Shift' was the same thing? Also, there seem to exist an additional servo that gets connected to receiver-ch6, what is that for?

I'd appreciate any light that can be shed on the issue, and forgive me for possibly being overly confused, as I said, I am a noob afterall...

/H

 

 

 

Posted

I'll try to explain. Normally the MFC will shift gears with the left stick (L/C/R) (trottle being up/ down). They are setting it up with shifting on a 3 way switch. When you do it that way, the servo for shifting will connect directly to RX on channel 6 and the switch will control shift 1,2,3 gears.. The stick will NOT control shift this way, but still control throttle. You don't have to do it this way and can use the stick for shifting if you prefer. (via MFC instruction manual) Servo's normally plug into MFC and the MFC plugs into the RX.

The MFC will require 3 servo's to make it complete. One for steering, one for shifting the transmission, and one for the 5th wheel operation. The way YOUTUBE is showing you is a little different from standard MFC settings, just so you understand.

Gear and shift is the same thing. Doing it with switch is an easier driving experience. 

Hope that explained it for you.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the comprehensive explanation!

Using the 3-way switch rather than the stick is what I will (try to...) do,.. So, if I understand you correctly, the shift-/gear-servo should be connected to channel 6 on the receiver and NOT to the J10-slot on the MFC-unit?

The MFC-manual allocates the third servo for motorized support legs. This is something I will not go for at this time, (assuming it can be retrofitted once I change my mind). I suppose the 'coupler switch' will open/close the coupler of the 5th wheel only, I'll settle for that for the time being (unless someone lures me to reconsider...).

/H

Posted
14 hours ago, Hokey-58 said:

Using the 3-way switch rather than the stick is what I will (try to...) do,.. So, if I understand you correctly, the shift-/gear-servo should be connected to channel 6 on the receiver and NOT to the J10-slot on the MFC-unit?

The MFC-manual allocates the third servo for motorized support legs. This is something I will not go for at this time, (assuming it can be retrofitted once I change my mind). I suppose the 'coupler switch' will open/close the coupler of the 5th wheel only, I'll settle for that for the time being (unless someone lures me to reconsider...).

I use a 3-way switch for gear changes on some of my rigs.  I prefer it that way.  Using the MFC, you can still simulate a gear change by moving the left stick across the gates - the MFC will change the engine sound and even change torque available, however you have the option of choosing your maximum top speed using the 3-way switch.  When driving on small club layouts, 1st gear is usually more than fast enough - we usually fit 80 turn motors (the Carson Poison is a popular choice) to bring the speed right down.

As for the coupler switch - this is just a microswitch that triggers a clunk sound when the trailer is connected.

The remove trailer leg and remote 5th wheel release are performed by the same servo.  When you move the stick in one direction it will cause the trailer legs to raise or descend, depending on how far you move it.  When you move the stick in the other direction, it unlocks the 5th wheel, allowing you to drive the truck forward and away from the trailer, or back it up under the trailer to high up.

Personally I find Tamiya's implementation somewhat clumsy, and needs an ugly black box installing on your trailer.  I prefer the Beier solution, but I'm not sure if you can make it work with a Tamiya MFC without a some additional hardware.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thank you for the further clarification!

So, as I feared, someone managed to trick me into buying the trailer-leg thingy...:D

If I had any hopes of this becoming somewhat of a budget-build, those are now thoroughly shattered. I have, now or on the way, the following extras, beyond the R620-kit and MFC-03:

  • 10ch receiver to go with the FS-i6x
  • Motorized support legs
  • Extra LEDs
  • Switches for those LEDs
  • Ball bearings
  • Bent rod ends (for tighter steering radius)
  • Poison motor

What I am missing is of course a trailer. I think that will wait until I feel rich again. Or if anyone can point me in the direction of something used and/or cheap...?

Again, thanx for all the help, much appreciated!

/H

 

 

Posted

Your list looks good. Semi's are expensive unless you go bare bones with them but that is no fun. You'll be happy with it in the long run.

Good luck with the build and have fun.

  • Like 1
Posted

Hi all, 

My first post, but this thread inspired me to share what I have experienced so far…many of which should help Hokey-58.  I have a King Hauler bought as a RTR, and am currently painting and assembling a Ford Aeromax.  I also have 4 trailers, with only 1 built so far.  I have motorized legs, wireless lights for all 4.

 In no order, here goes….and I think some of these things I listed will help the OP a lot.  Especially finding an affordable trailer.  Look at the 8th item I posted here.

- My 2 favorite websites I ordered from.

-  first is Www.toucanhobby.com.  As a newb I ordered a RTR (painted and assembled) King Hauler for only $850.  They said about 30 days since it is a custom paint and build.  30 days on the dot, they sent me a video of the truck working all it’s features and shipped it.  It arrived looking and working perfect!  It came with the nice FlySky FS-i6X tx.  I since added more lights and a driver.  Lucas is the POC and always answers emails within a day.

- 2nd favorite website is www.rcmart.com.  They sell Tamiya kits and MFC/tx/servo bundles insanely cheap.  I bought a Ford Aeromax and bundle kit for a fraction of seen all elsewhere.  They are also the only site I have seen that sell the OB1 wireless tractor and trailer light kits.  Shipping was very fast.

- OB1 wireless trailer lights are the way to go!  They work via bluetooth and work well.  I had some issues with setting up signal functions and realized they just needed a full reset to default mode.  Then everything worked perfectly.  Brakes, back-up lights, turn signals, and high power outputs that can power over 20 lights per trailer side.

- for motorized trailer legs, I got lucky and found a seller that had 10 of them for only $35 each!  I couldn’t believe it.  I bought 4, one for each trailer, and sure enough, they arrived in a few days and were NIB!  I don’t know they knew what they had.

- For my flatbed trailer, I glued all the planks together so if I ever had to remove them to fix any wiring issues, all I have to do is lift off one board.  It worked well!  I hand built pallets with balsa wood to use with my Carson forklift…the only affordable 1/14 scale forklift that isn’t an expensive hydraulic.

- For my Aeromax, I am torn between using the Futaba Attack tx with my MFC-01 or adapting it to my Fly Sky  FS-i6X that came with my King Hauler.  I really like the digital features, and understand what needs to be done to adapt it to the MFC.  But I like the idea of using all the MFC function sounds with the Futaba tx.

- I learned Tamiya kit prices can vary wildly depending on what website you are ordering from.  But in the US the Aeromax Kit was over $500, and there it was on rcmart for $239.  Yeah, shipping was over $100, but it was still a lot less overall.

- I don’t know what the deal is with Hercules trailers, but I got a few, and they are much less than Tamiya trailers and many of the parts look identical, and the instructions look the same as Tamiya.  I did get a Tamiya tanker trailer, because I had to have one.  Very hard to find the old Shell stickers, so I’ll be plotting them myself on my vinyl plotter.

- I used my label maker to list all the functions on my tx becuase I have many RC vehicles, including many construction vehicles, and the labels help keep it all straight.

I don’t know if I’ll get in trouble mentioning websites or non-Tamiya brands, but the intent of this post was to share my experiences so far with buying and building Tamiya trucks.  They are insanely cool, and I’ve wanted at least one for years, but was intimidated by the kit and build.  Having one built for me as a RTR at an insanely reasonable price was a great way to get into it, and since then I had the confidence to buy and assemble the kits. I learned if you just take the instructions one step at a time, it’s all OK.  The only hard part is keeping in mind to replace the stock kit parts with the ones needed for the motorized legs and servo driven 5th wheel.

Below is my King Hauler I got as a RTR, with my hand painted Tamiya driver and extra interior lights.  I wetsanded and polished it and added the chrome door trims with Bare Metal Foil.

 And one of my hand built balsa pallets with my Carson forklift.  it’s a cool little unit!  Lift even tilts back!  It’s also fully proportional, which the Huina one isn’t.

OK…too much typing, sorry….lol.

 

IMG_6826.jpeg

IMG_6903.jpeg

  • Like 5
Posted

I am very grateful and happy with all assistance and good advice so far!

The build has started and come a good bit forward, I am now on stage 31 of the total 51, not counting all the confusing jumps back and forth between three different, and someties conflicting manuals (R620, MFC and Trailer legs.

Since the "Shift-/Gear-servo"-issue has been resolved (thanks again!), and there are numerous other questions that pop up, I will start a new thread with a more 'generic' heading.

/H

  • Like 2
Posted

Cow Trucker very well written. Nicely done on your truck! I have the Carson fork lift, made my own pallets, and alot of what you said sounds like me. I think Hercules is a copy (knock off) of Tamiya and is priced cheaper. (never bought one though) You can find the leg kit cheaper like you did. Trailer light kit also. For that matter MFC's too.

Any way happy trucking. CAN"T OWN JUST ONE!

Hokey-58 - Good luck with the build. The back and forth with manuals can be a pain.

Posted

Hi Tamiya Fan!  Thanks for the kind words! 

The Hercules kits seem near identical to the Tamiya right down to the instructions.  Very high quality!  I actually prefer the Hercules reefer trailer as the door latches are one per side as opposed to an upper and lower latch each side. I personally don’t like the 3 axle European configuration, so I bought a pair of double wheel sets.  Will look better IMO.

I regret the Tamiya light kits I bought since I discovered the OB1 wireless kits.  Now I can remotely unlatch the trailer without having to stoop over and unplug a wire.  Much cleaner looking than that ugly gray cable too.

Right now trying to decide on how my 2 reefer trailers will look.  Www.tamiyadecals.com has a massive selection, but a little concerned about it being in Ukraine.  Only because of all the turmoil there, not sure if things ship out smoothly or not.  I might take a chance though.  I already ordered the hard to find original Shell tanker stickers from them from Etsy…(1 still left)  I really want that Shell sticker!!!  So I’ll see.  Apparently they are still getting things shipped out.  Only other source of decals is a UK seller, but selection is not as varied.

As far as deals…RCMart.com had the MFC01, Futaba Attack tx, and 3 Futaba servos sold as a bundle for just over $300 if I remember right.  Was a great deal!

More pics of my truck and the detailing.  Note how the 5th wheel sits?!?

IMG_6828.jpeg

IMG_6830.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted

The 5th wheel should be sitting down to the trear of truck not horizantial as it  is. Then when you work it to release trailer pin, it will go horizantial. Just so you know. will work that way I think though?

There is 2 different lengths of link rod in the leg kit. Maybe you used the shorter one. For Globliner I think. Check the manual. Because all of mine sit down at rear of truck when relaxed and not using it. It does look like the shorter rod. If everything is set right I would say thats what it is. Or the company you bought it from used shorter one?

Posted

OH YEA. The "Shell" stickers are the way to go in my opinion also. Looks so much better. Thats what I did many years ago. I found an original set (Tamiya) on sale down south. Looks better than the eagle. I love my tanker. Need gloves to handle it though. I think Tamiya (for shorter time) did a second decal set "Shell" w/ a gray stripe. Not sure on that though. I think Ukraine has it.

I've used the Ukraine for the trailer decals in the past with no problems. Good quality. But was before the war. They might be on the other side from Russia? 

I agree that the Original trailer light cable is not ideal but mine were built before stuff was out (OB1,Etc...) So I am stuck with it. To much $ and time to reverse it.

Hope you figure the 5th wheel out. 

Happy Trucking!

Posted

Hi again TF1,  

The 5th wheel kit is Tamiya with the recommended Futaba servo.  (I assembled that unit and installed it myself.)  If I used the longer rod, it would be too long and have no room to use.  I will double check the instructions though, but I swear I got that part right.  But… I obviously missed something, or it wouldn’t be looking like that….lol.  In the other thread, I suspect I used too short of a servo horn, but now as I look at my pic, a taller servo horn would hit the trailer.  If I can’t sort it out, I won’t stress too much as it all works and the trailer connects just fine to it.

I think the old Shell tanker decal is the best choice as well!  It’s one of the few choices that doesn’t cover so much of that beautiful polished stainless steel!  That tanker is a jewel!

I also ordered a Costco and Corona reefer trailer decal set from Ukraine.  So far it seems to be processed and shipped.  It’s crazy, out of this entire world, there’s only ONE guy in Ukraine that has the only comprehensive Tamiya trailer decal selection.  Had to take the chance…lol.

Thanks again for your input!  Much appreciated!  :D

  • Like 1
Posted

I thought that was it, I guess not. I am putting some pics. of some of my trucks and how it sits on mine. 

Maybe adjust servo horn one or two notches back off center?    I tried.   It does have the silver return spring that looks like an "A" on the pin to pull it down., right?

Just throwing ideas out there? If it works it works, right. 

I use the rectangle plate from support leg kit and 5th wheel plate from (I think) MFC unit.

And sorry to steal the thread. Hokey-58

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Posted

TF1, Thanks for the pics and description!

Your servo rod is level with the truck and mine points downward as it gets to the 5th wheel.

Now you mention a return spring. The only spring on the 5th wheel is the one that keeps the trailer latch in closed position.  Are you saying there’s another spring that keeps the 5th wheel plate pointing down at the back?  Looking at your pics, I have to be missing something!

Here’s a pic I pulled from the web of someone else’s truck that does the exact same thing….odd.

IMG_6766.jpeg

Posted

Yes there is. It is silver and looks like a "V" with a loop in it. ( I said "A" before) It goes on the 1.5" (about) pin  w/1 c-clip that holds the the plate on and pivits. It will bring the plate to the position it should be in when relaxed, but won't over come the servo of course. Things still need to be set right. The servo will pull the plate about horizantial when releasing trailer but should return when in nuetral. Like my pics show. Hope you still have the extra parts.

Any questions let me know.

Posted

YES!  That is the part I missed putting on the 5th wheel!!!!

I was just scouring youtube, and I saw an assembly procedure that showed me what I missed.  Thanks for making me aware of this issue and guiding me towards the solution.  I have all the extra parts sorted and stored.  I’m so happy I now know what to do.

A million thanks to you!!!!

 

BTW: Your trucks look beautiful!  Got any more shots of them?

IMG_6961.jpeg

  • Like 1
Posted

Great, that's it. Glad to help!  Hope it helps with the problem.

My trucks are posted in "Big Rigs" Just scoll down, they aren't to far. Separate posts.

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