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Posted

I really like the brakes on my THW1060 equipped cars, so this makes me curious. Would you be able to expand on "the brakes suck"?

Posted
10 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

I really like the brakes on my THW1060 equipped cars, so this makes me curious. Would you be able to expand on "the brakes suck"?

It’s almost like you have no brakes at all… you apply brake and the car will eventually roll to a stop.

Posted
23 minutes ago, rwordenjr said:

It’s almost like you have no brakes at all… you apply brake and the car will eventually roll to a stop.

Something is definitely up. Mine really stop on a dime. Not sure how much debugging can be done either since the 1060's self calibrate? There isn't much to dial in.

  • Like 1
Posted
14 minutes ago, Pylon80 said:

Something is definitely up. Mine really stop on a dime. Not sure how much debugging can be done either since the 1060's self calibrate? There isn't much to dial in.

Yup. I’ve tried with different transmitters to see if any change but no difference. Perhaps it’s the motor? Using old vintage motor. You using the tamiyas motors on all yours ? 

  • Like 2
Posted

No issues with brakes using HW1060. Running RWD Buggy cars on asphalt, I need to set EPA to around 60-70% to not block wheels. 4WD cars stop really fast, quite often with blocked wheels.

 I think something is wrong with your configuration or motor.

  • Like 1
Posted

I've got three of them, some genuine some replica but brakes on all three of them suck. It will of course depend on motor, gearing and car weight but they are weaker compared to any other esc.

Strangely drag brakes are better in the crawler mode than the real brakes are in the f/b/r mode. Only problem is you can easily accidentally go into reverse in crawler mode.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Have you got the two plastic tabs installed correctly on the ESC? One of the settings removes the brakes.

One tab sets NiMH or LiPO, the other three brakes and reverse:

SAM_3959.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

I haven't noticed problems with brakes on my 1060s, although I have heard some racers say the brakes are more effective when the ESC is set to F/B than F/B/R - I'm not sure why this would be.  F/B is mandatory for racing, as reverse it not allowed.

That said, I don't often use the 1060 in my race cars and I don't drive the 1060 back-to-back with other ESCs, so I might not notice if the brakes are weaker.

  • Like 1
Posted

It really depends on the car and the motor. With a 540 and tall gearing, like on a Hornet or something, the brakes are weak. But I don't think they're any worse than the Tamiya TEU or TBLE brakes. Keep in mind that the strength of the brakes depends a lot on the strength of the magnets, and as much as I love the old silver-cans, I've seen stronger magnets on re****erator decorations.

The cars I have with a 1060 and 27-turn stock or mild modified motors, or 540s with lower gearing, stop well, and can sometimes even lock up the wheels. I have a little CEN 4WD monster truck with a 1060 that will do "stoppies" if you hit the brakes too hard.

  • Like 1
Posted

I have genuine HW, Go-Nitro Hobbies clones and Tamiya THW ones. 5 in total and all work the same. No difference between F/B/R and F/B. I use F/B when I need to set dragging brake with my Tx.

I think @Twinfan has something. If the OP has removed the jumper altogether I would see how you wouldn't have any brakes? Unless that is crawler mode? I'll try it just for kicks.

  • Like 1
Posted
5 hours ago, Twinfan said:

Thanks @Pylon80 - a "jumper"!  I couldn't remember the word earlier and went with "tab" :lol:

I think no upper jumper means forward and reverse only, no brakes.

No jumper means full brakes at neutral, plus forward and reverse. It's the crawler mode.

  • Like 3
Posted

Found the neutral / drag brake in F/R is better than the brakes in F/B/R.

I've also found myself adjusting the reverse end point too in F/R , giving adjustable brakes.

  • Like 1
Posted
16 hours ago, Twinfan said:

Have you got the two plastic tabs installed correctly on the ESC? One of the settings removes the brakes.

One tab sets NiMH or LiPO, the other three brakes and reverse:

SAM_3959.jpg

Yes it’s set up correctly. 

Posted

Not just you, although it may be specific to your setup and possibly the vintage motor you're using. As mentioned above, weak motor magnets and taller gearing (closer to 1:1) make the brakes worse, and stronger magnets with shorter gearing can help weak brakes feel stronger. I have certain motor/gearing combos that stop really well and will lock up the rear tires on grippy tarmac, but others behave as you described and roll to a stop more gradually.

Posted
On 4/27/2025 at 8:56 PM, rwordenjr said:

Yup. I’ve tried with different transmitters to see if any change but no difference. Perhaps it’s the motor? Using old vintage motor. You using the tamiyas motors on all yours ? 

Yes, fresh Tamiya motors. Torque Tuned, Sport Tuned, Formula Tuned (very smooth), Super Stock TZ (fun !) and even 380 sport tuned. All have very strong brakes in spite of massive difference of kv and torque between themselves. All of them are geared short mind you, as this is just how I like it.

I'm thinking perhaps you might have a bad ESC, if that is even a thing? 

Hope you get it sorted out 👍

Posted

I have a torque tuned motor geared up at 5.5 on my 3Racing m4 with a 1060. The brakes are far worse than on my heavier bt-01 with a 20T motor and a similar 1060. The only other difference is the gearing here.

If you want better brakes you're likely gonna have to change the gearing.

On another note, I'm thinking of replacing my torque tuned with a 30T motor with adjustable timing. Would a bit of timing advance help that motor get to the same speed as a torque tuned?

Posted
On 4/28/2025 at 10:10 PM, Wooders28 said:

I've also found myself adjusting the reverse end point too in F/R , giving adjustable brakes.

How does this work? sounds interesting

Posted
3 hours ago, Crucial said:

How does this work? sounds interesting

Most modern radios have EPA (End Point Adjustment)

So with the throttle you can set to 50% and full throttle is half power/speed (great for teaching the kids).

Same with reverse. You can adjust reverse (brakes) to say 10% (adjust as necessary,  with a 4wd it can stand on its nose with nasty teeth ripping off noises..😬) , so you get brakes.

Posted
13 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

On my new build stadium thunder with sport tuned motor, the 1060 brakes are good ! 

There you go! 1060's are extremely nice for the price and they are everything 90% of the people need (outside of modern racing which is using brushless of course).

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