Lunchbox Hop... essential upgrades

[skom25]

Hi,

My RC journey is weird and probably went in bit wrong direction. I started with "I want everything which is the best" and now I am somewhere "I just want to run RC for 15 minutes and forget about this".

Few months ago I asked about Lunchbox/Midnight Pumpkin. Now I came back to this idea.

What are the essentail Lunchbox upgrades?

1. CVAs

2. Ball Bearings

3. High Torque servo saver

Have I missed something? Pinion? Is it steel or aluminium in kit?

Which High Torque servo saver should be used? I see that horn from kit is bit different than that added to HT version.

[TurnipJF]

7 minutes ago, skom25 said:

Pinion? Is it steel or aluminium in kit?

It is made out of brass, and is fine for use with normal motors. 

8 minutes ago, skom25 said:

Have I missed something?

The body mounts are very vulnerable. You could go with metal ones, or you could stock up on spare plastic ones. Metal ones should last, but they pass the forces into the next link in the chain - either the bodyshell or chassis tub. But then you might find that you get tired of replacing the plastic ones. Hard to say which is best. 

[BigJag]

I've had Alloy body mounts on mine for a while. I'd definitely recommend them.

I'm currently trying to tune out the crazy steering cambers. Installed a UKMonsters front wishbone kit which made a huge improvement. The left tyre has a habit of sitting off to the left. Almost as if it is hanging off. I think the week link is the servo saver. I've ordered a Kimborough servo saver which should remove the play. I used the same part on a MB with very positive results.

Original steering/suspension setup.

 

UKMonsters kit fitted.

 

 

[Twinfan]

I have a parts-built basher Lunch Box that I take on weekend away holidays, and I've messed with it a lot!  My recommendations would be:

• A Sport-Tuned motor.  The gearing is low so it doesn't get too hot and it's a great match for the truck.  I use a 5000mAh NiMH and get around 30 minutes of run time - plenty from one pack!
• The stock pinion is brass and perfect for the Sport-Tuned motor, no need to change it.
• Definitely get bearings, cheap and simple and a must for the Sport-Tuned motor.  You'll need 9x 1150-sized and 1x 850-sized.
• I wouldn't bother changing the body mounts.  I'm using the standard plastic ones and they're all fully intact so far.
• I would pick up a few axle springs for spares as they regularly break.  Add some grease around the locating post when attaching them and they last longer.
• A Hi-Torque servo saver isn't necessary.  The steering is very imprecise anyway so you won't improve it by adding one.  The cheap standard ones are fine and in fact last longer than the Hi-Torque one I fitted as the plastic seems more brittle in the upgraded one.
• A cheap servo is more than enough, especially given the vague steering.
• Definitely fit CVAs and set them up as in the manual, they work great.  Just remember to add pre-load spacers to the front to match the stock pogo sticks as this isn't described in the manual, but it stops the body rubbing on the front wheels when reversing!
• Fitting elastic bands inside the wheels where the tyre bead meets it will prevent the tyre slipping inside the wheel.  You could always glue them instead, but I've never felt the need and would rather be able to remove the tyres for cleaning.

Overall, I'd say don't do any more than you have to.  It will never perform and handle like a Top Force Evo so it's pointless trying.  My view is that you accept the Lunch Box for what it is and just enjoy it - it's fun!  Wobbling all over the place and not going in a straight line is part of its character!  I personally find that half the fun of the Lunch Box is tinkering with it - adjusting the steering rods a little bit here and there, replacing axle springs for the 100th time on the kitchen table etc  

Keep it cheap and basic and you won't go wrong.  Mine makes me smile and laugh every time I drive it, and beware that people will come up and talk to you about it - everyone loves the Lunch Box  

[alvinlwh]

I am surprised that no one mentioned the 5th shock yet. Or a 3D printed brace. 

To be honest, given what I know about your expectations, I think you will be really disappointed with the Lunchbox. You will be picking it up off its roof at least 15 times in that 15 minutes and everytime it roll, it will be a new scratch on the body. 

EDIT: Forget about the HT servo saver and just superglue the kit saver. 

[Twinfan]

I think the 5th shock mod is part of the rabbit hole of trying to "improve" the Lunch Box.

I'd say it's not worth the bother - just have fun instead  

[JimBear]

The Grasshopper II/Rising Fighter A parts (TA-10005340) to improve the camber a bit. If you have some older pogo sticks in the right size (85 mm-ish) in the spare parts box, then even those are an upgrade to the originals, I think. 

As has been said, keep it simple and go down the rabbit hole later, if you feel like. 

[Kowalski86]

 

2 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I am surprised that no one mentioned the 5th shock yet. Or a 3D printed brace.

If your gearbox case has the little "ledge" sticking out, you can glue a foam switch cover to the chassis, keep the "ledge" in it, and it'll have the same effect. I did this on a Hornet recently, it was effectively a brace without any drilling nor printing.

Otherwise Pintopower has plenty of useful tips.

[urban warrior]

Hi,

I would add a reinforcement for the steering servo mount. The mounting location in the chassis is very vulnerable. I reinforced mine back in the days with a makeshift strip of aluminum. But If you like you can go for a more "evolved" solution.

[Guest]

Get one of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/197063960102

[skom25]

3 hours ago, alvinlwh said:

I am surprised that no one mentioned the 5th shock yet. Or a 3D printed brace. 

To be honest, given what I know about your expectations, I think you will be really disappointed with the Lunchbox. You will be picking it up off its roof at least 15 times in that 15 minutes and everytime it roll, it will be a new scratch on the body. 

EDIT: Forget about the HT servo saver and just superglue the kit saver. 

My expectations are really low now. I always wanted to have super duper almost TRF cars, with adjustable everything, bla bla... but it just does not work if you do not have good place to run cars like that. 

Currently I am very happy with almost non adjustable TT-02. I only sometimes run XV-01 (and to be honest, do not change almost anything in suspension settings) and DT-02, which I ran two times since more or less march... Ah, I forgot about DB-01 which I even did not finish.

It is bit weird, but I started from very high expectations and cars and now I do not care too much. It is like totally opposite than in most cases I believe.

I also came back to static models, so RC is no longer only "indoor" hobby I have.

Going back to Lunchbox:

Thank you for all suggestions, but I want to keep it simple without any mods.

3 hours ago, Twinfan said:

Keep it cheap and basic and you won't go wrong.  Mine makes me smile and laugh every time I drive it, and beware that people will come up and talk to you about it - everyone loves the Lunch Box  

This is something I am looking for. Some time ago, I realised that I was bit too serious with all that RC stuff.

If I decide to buy it: should I stay with standard screws from kit or switch to machine screws? I prefer hex machine screws, but if plastic is VERY soft, it does not make too much sense.

[Twinfan]

Keep it standard - just build it as per the kit as I suggested.  Heck, it's even good with a Silver Can!  

Bare minimum fit bearings and CVAs though, and if you're doing that you may as well go for a Sport Tuned motor  

[El Gecko]

oof... I have an issue with the phrase "essential upgrades" because technically no upgrades are needed to complete the vehicle.

But for my personal preference, if I was keeping close to stock, there are only a few things I would do to a Lunchbox, same as I've done to my Hornets:

1. ball bearings
2. high torque servo saver or add a stronger spring to the stock one
3. 3rd shock mod or 3D-printed gearbox brace, or a homemade DIY solution like I've done on all of mine

Ball bearings are pretty obvious, they'll make the car smoother, less clunky, more powerful, and more efficient.

The servo saver is a weak point on all the vintage chassis, but especially problematic with larger wheels/tires. The high torque servo saver has a stronger spring which helps to re-center more accurately and keep the wheels in position when they're deflected by the terrain. You can also achieve something similar by adding an extra spring to the outside of the stock saver like the pic below. Super glue does NOT work. It stuffs the servo saver up, preventing it from moving (same as if you had a solid servo horn), and when the glue breaks open from a small hit (which it always does at some point) you're back to the floppy useless stock saver, only now it's got super glue all over it, so it sticks/catches and won't recenter even as good as it did without glue. Zip ties are similarly ineffective for anything beyond the first impact.

And the gearbox brace is simply to cure the "slap" under acceleration. The small springs within the gearbox mounts are nowhere near strong enough to have any sort of effect, so the brace keeps it from being so floppy and loose.

[alvinlwh]

1 hour ago, skom25 said:

back to static models

Yah same here. RC is just too expensive and quick to finish to be sustainable as a long term hobby. At least with a static, for about 1/5 - 1/10 the price, it can last me 2 - 4 weeks. Most of my RC are done in a week or less. 

[markbt73]

4 hours ago, Twinfan said:

I think the 5th shock mod is part of the rabbit hole of trying to "improve" the Lunch Box.

I'd say it's not worth the bother - just have fun instead  

What rabbit hole? I have no idea what you're talking about.

 

[alvinlwh]

1 hour ago, Twinfan said:

it's even good with a Silver Can!

It is uncontrollable with a 2S and ST motor. I swapped back to the silver can when I started using lipo. 

[skom25]

4 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

Yah same here. RC is just too expensive and quick to finish to be sustainable as a long term hobby. At least with a static, for about 1/5 - 1/10 the price, it can last me 2 - 4 weeks. Most of my RC are done in a week or less. 

Exactly. 

I like RC cars, because you can build and then run them. Unfortunately it starts to be super expensive really quick. I mean, really expensive...

I also found that it is nice to build new, clean car, but it is bit less fun to maintain dirty and greasy model, when you do not have garage/workshop.

Few days ago I bought Tamiya A6M3 Zero in 1/48 scale. It was expensive for that kind of model, but quality is amazing. I have feeling that it was worth to pay for this, which is not always so obvious with RCs.

New F-35. Even in 1/72 scale is just mind blowing.

Lunchbox:

Thank you for tips. If I decide to buy it, I will take a look once again and decide what should be upgraded.

BTW: how durable are tires? To be honest, I have never seen them here to buy.

 

[alvinlwh]

12 minutes ago, skom25 said:

Tamiya A6M3 Zero in 1/48 scale

You should try their 32 scale one. I built 60317 15 years ago and it was amazing. I also 60316 waiting to be built. 

[urban warrior]

2 hours ago, skom25 said:

I also came back to static models, so RC is no longer only "indoor" hobby I have.

Funny, nearly 40 years ago it was vice versa for me. I wanted to have something that moves and not only sits on a shelf. Now I have a lot of shelf queens ... 🤷🏼‍♂️

1 hour ago, alvinlwh said:

RC is just too expensive and quick to finish to be sustainable as a long term hobby.

Talking about expensive models. Well, I got me the 1/350 Yamato from Tamiya ... the newer one. BTW ... it is now accompanied by the Glow2B in 1/200. And you should come into my world, where RC models can wait up to ten years to get finished ... darn AMS.

[Twinfan]

59 minutes ago, skom25 said:

BTW: how durable are tires? To be honest, I have never seen them here to buy.

 

They last forever.

[Kowalski86]

2 hours ago, skom25 said:

I also found that it is nice to build new, clean car, but it is bit less fun to maintain dirty and greasy model, when you do not have garage/workshop.

BTW: how durable are tires? To be honest, I have never seen them here to buy.

The nice thing about the Lunchbox (and most 2wd Monster trucks) is that they stay fairly clean, they sit up high, tall enclosed, and the wheels are outside of the body.

The tires will dry rot long, long before they show any wear.

[El Gecko]

4 hours ago, markbt73 said:

What rabbit hole? I have no idea what you're talking about.

 

That's a properly done Tamiya Big Bubba, very nice 

[alvinlwh]

3 hours ago, urban warrior said:

Talking about expensive models. Well, I got me the 1/350 Yamato from Tamiya ... the newer one. BTW ... it is now accompanied by the Glow2B in 1/200.

TBH, a buggy + electronics, especially if brushless, can easily beat either of them. Yet they will take far longer to build than a buggy (normal situation, not a deliberately dragged out build on the buggy). 

[urban warrior]

3 minutes ago, alvinlwh said:

TBH, a buggy + electronics, especially if brushless, can easily beat either of them. Yet they will take far longer to build than a buggy (normal situation, not a deliberately dragged out build on the buggy). 

You're right. But I also made the discovery that a static model can be extremely pricey too. And today, if you totally loose it, you can additionally spend more than the price of a model kit for etched, resin casted or 3D printed upgrade parts. So you can loose yourself in static modelling as well. 🤪 But yes, when I add up all the money I've spent for RC modelling and static modelling the ratio is around 4:1 ... 🤦🏼‍♂️

[Nikko85]

Axle brace cost a few quid. That and bearings would be my first choice. Even stick suspension has basic charms.

Mine is now very upgraded, with the upgrades costing much more than the car. Not worth it in terms of cost vs performance compared to just buying something better outright, but it's cool to do!