I have a couple of questions about the Konghead?

[ajdragon01]

Hi

First question: What is the difference between the front and rear axles, other then the front not being shiny.

Second question: Why are there little pin holes in the chassis/tranny case, where each of the 9 gear pegs are at?

 

[MadAnt]

55 minutes ago, ajdragon01 said:

Hi

First question: What is the difference between the front and rear axles, other then the front not being shiny.

Second question: Why are there little pin holes in the chassis/tranny case, where each of the 9 gear pegs are at?

 

The darker color outboard axles are longer and may require a thicker hex hub or may be able to fit wheels that are thicker at the center hole.

As for the tiny pin holes in the gearboxes, I have no clue, but I would assume it's a vent maybe?

[Juggular]

1 hour ago, ajdragon01 said:

First question: What is the difference between the front and rear axles, other then the front not being shiny.

Second question: Why are there little pin holes in the chassis/tranny case, where each of the 9 gear pegs are at?

1) Steering requires different lengths. 

2) I don't think they do anything.  They are plugged by steel shafts anyway, but I tape them up.  I've tried to waterproof the arm attachment points too.  I forget what I did. Did I tape it from the inside?  

And I used plumber's grease (which is plastic-safe) on the two halves of the gearbox. The whole thing would be somewhat splash proof.  Definitely dust proof, and it's easy to wipe away.  

 

[TurnipJF]

The shiny axles are standard while the dull ones are hardened. You put the hardened ones at the front because they are most likely to have to withstand collision forces.

[ajdragon01]

Hi

 

I'll have to give the plungers grease a try, and thank thanks for the info on the axles.

[ajdragon01]

Hi

A new question

Would a HW QuicRun WP 10BL60 and a GoolRC 60a 3500kv motor be under powered for the Konghead?

 

[TurnipJF]

15 hours ago, ajdragon01 said:

Hi

A new question

Would a HW QuicRun WP 10BL60 and a GoolRC 60a 3500kv motor be under powered for the Konghead?

 

Power is very much a case of personal preference. What is overpowered to one person might be underpowered for another. Personally I think the G6-01 chassis is at its best run relatively slowly over rough ground so I am happy with a humble torque tuned brushed motor in mine, but I know some people like driving it faster on smoother ground which would require a stronger motor. 

[Juggular]

15 hours ago, ajdragon01 said:

Would a HW QuicRun WP 10BL60 and a GoolRC 60a 3500kv motor be under powered for the Konghead?

I hope you have bull bearings installed?  Because Konghead/Dynahead have so many bushings, they'll sap power quite a bit.  

Just 2 bearings on the motor can increase the top speed 10% (only rebuildable motors allow you to replace bushings with bearings).  

Imagine how much torque and speed 40-ish bushings can steal from your Konghead. 

 

After bearings (which should be the first upgrade in my opinion), then the motor.  I'd say 3500kv is plenty for most people.  My favorite (and quite inexpensive) motor is Sport Tuned. It puts out 18,000 RPM without any load.  3500kv at 7.4v is about 26,000 RPM.  That's plenty fast.  

 

If you haven't, I would switch out the pinion, though.  Brushless motors put out more torque. Konghead has a lot of weight the pinion has to overcome.  We call the stock pinion "Tamiya cheesium."  After a few runs with a stronger motor, the teeth will look pointy. 

Soon it becomes knife-edged. When these become nubs, they'll eat up the spur gear.  (If you run the stick silver can, this will only happen after dozens and dozens of packs.)

With a stronger motor, you'd need something harder.  You could use steel, but I don't like steel pinions as much. Because it's a lot heavier.  But you can search for a "steel pinion" and you'll come across coated pinions that are light and strong like these.  (You can only fit a 0.6 module pinion with 18 or 20 teeth.)  Less weight means less momentum, quicker changes in speed.  

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805457682877.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.259d19fab4wLXk&algo_pvid=a1e97059-4574-412b-9ecb-223b5c537214&algo_exp_id=a1e97059-4574-412b-9ecb-223b5c537214-0&pdp_ext_f={"order"%3A"867"%2C"eval"%3A"1"}&pdp_npi=4%40dis!USD!26.98!6.91!!!192.72!49.39!%402103244617505262368591009e42d5!12000033862115624!sea!US!2630314545!X&curPageLogUid=E1bC5HlNnTLh&utparam-url=scene%3Asearch|query_from%3A

They don't cost too much either. About $7 for five pinions.  (I wish I get paid for linking. Then again, how much cut could they give me from a $7 stuff? lol...)

 

[ajdragon01]

12 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Power is very much a case of personal preference. What is overpowered to one person might be underpowered for another. Personally I think the G6-01 chassis is at its best run relatively slowly over rough ground so I am happy with a humble torque tuned brushed motor in mine, but I know some people like driving it faster on smoother ground which would require a stronger motor. 

Hi

 

I think you miss understood, I just want to make sure the system is not going to burn up because the Konghead was to much truck for it to handle.  I'm not a speed seeker, or a hard core basher.

 

Yes I have replaced all of the plastic bushings with bearings.

[TurnipJF]

2 hours ago, ajdragon01 said:

Hi

 

I think you miss understood, I just want to make sure the system is not going to burn up because the Konghead was to much truck for it to handle.  I'm not a speed seeker, or a hard core basher.

 

Yes I have replaced all of the plastic bushings with bearings.

Ah, I see. 

That combo should be fine in a Konghead. The motor has plenty of torque, and the ESC can handle enough amps to feed it under most conditions. It also has a built in thermal cut out, so if it does overheat, all it will do is shut down until it cools. You won't fry it. 

If you want to be extra sure that your ESC has enough headroom for the motor, you could go for the 120 amp version. That will feed your motor with no difficulty even for extended runs in demanding terrain on hot days.

[ajdragon01]

Hi

Thank you.

[BigJag]

I've recently acquired a Konghead. It's running a 10.5 turn brushless motor and I'm really quite impressed by it. The car/truck also has the alloy servo brace fitted with an uprated Sepktrum servo. I have noticed that at times the seering doesn't self centre. A wiggle of the steering wheel soon sorts that issue out. Has anyone noticed this on their Konghead?

I'd like to alter the boxart to a Bigfoot livery. It'll definitely need a flag.

[nowinaminute]

29 minutes ago, BigJag said:

I've recently acquired a Konghead. It's running a 10.5 turn brushless motor and I'm really quite impressed by it. The car/truck also has the alloy servo brace fitted with an uprated Sepktrum servo. I have noticed that at times the seering doesn't self centre. A wiggle of the steering wheel soon sorts that issue out. Has anyone noticed this on their Konghead?

I'd like to alter the boxart to a Bigfoot livery. It'll definitely need a flag.

Might be worth checking for grit on the ball joints of the steering mechanism. There is a naturally a little play in the steering and my Konghead and GF01 dump truck have both had a bit of grit in one of the steering ball joints and it causes the steering to settle slightly one side or the other within that zone of play rather than inherently tracking straight.

I've had similar in other vehicles too, such as my Thunder Dragon, different mechanism but same cause (sand or grit getting in the wrong place)

[Grumpy pants]

I ran my KH with the following spec and I was very happy with it -

Bearings

Oil shocks 

Futaba S3003 servo

A Quicrun 10BL120 ESC with a fan and perhaps a capacitor

Foams in the tyres

A Revtech 24K  17.5 brushless motor

Steel pinion

TL01 stainless steel shafts 

[ajdragon01]

Hi

 

I have a couple more questions.

1, do the tires need to be glued downed?  

2. What other spring options are available for use with the CC-01 aluminum shocks?

 

These are the upgrades I have done so far.

--------------------------------------------

Full sealed bearings

CC-01 aluminum shocks with AE 50wt oil

Using a RC Gear Shop Winking standard servo with 145oz of torque for steering

Steel pinion

TL01 stainless steel shafts 

Squash Van bumpers front and back, there is tire interference with the front bumper when turning, which will be fixed with my next upgrade.

Squash Van body mounts and body mount bracing, these are nearly 50% beefier then stock

Upgraded to 3mm black oxide screws, and tapped each and every hole so things would not break when installing the screws

 

My next upgrades will be tire inserts "which will show up in a couple of days" and  longer swing arms so the tires don't hit the front bumper.

 

 

 

 

[Grumpy pants]

You are unlikely to need to glue the tyres in my experience.

Should you feel the need then a rubber band or two on the inside of the wheel by the rim, will do a great job of holding the tyre in place. 

[BigJag]

Hi. Does anyone have a recommendation for a servo horn upgrade? The original Tamiya one is unreliable and has lost its screw and spline section.

[TurnipJF]

8 hours ago, BigJag said:

Hi. Does anyone have a recommendation for a servo horn upgrade? The original Tamiya one is unreliable and has lost its screw and spline section.

Tamiya's High Torque servo saver works well. Don't worry about the horns being different shapes. Just chose a hole the same distance from the shaft as on the stock one. 

[ajdragon01]

8 hours ago, BigJag said:

Hi. Does anyone have a recommendation for a servo horn upgrade? The original Tamiya one is unreliable and has lost its screw and spline section.

Hi

I installed the High torque on mine, it is the same size as the stock KH servo horn, you will not regret getting it, you may do a lot of cursing trying to get the second spring in place but you wont regret it.

[Grumpy pants]

2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

Tamiya's High Torque servo saver works well. Don't worry about the horns being different shapes. Just chose a hole the same distance from the shaft as on the stock one. 

 

1 hour ago, ajdragon01 said:

Hi

I installed the High torque on mine, it is the same size as the stock KH servo horn, you will not regret getting it, you may do a lot of cursing trying to get the second spring in place but you wont regret it.

I use the Tamiya 51000 Hi torque servo saver 🎉

[Grumpy pants]

This was my 1st KH, which I stupidly sold -

Thankfully @Busdriver came to my rescue 😂 and recently sold me his KH. 
 

[BigJag]

Thanks for the replies gents. Would changing the saver stop it from coming off the servo. I seem to be having an issue with the screw staying tight. May need to use some thread lock in future.

[Grumpy pants]

1 hour ago, BigJag said:

Thanks for the replies gents. Would changing the saver stop it from coming off the servo. I seem to be having an issue with the screw staying tight. May need to use some thread lock in future.

I use blue thread lock on that screw to help keep it all together.

[JeffSpicoli]

My lordy look at all doze gears.   

[whahooo]

I also have some questions:

 

I do have a "king yellow" here.
The body wobbles around a little bit to much, so want to build a leigtweght interior with some Simpsonscarakters (Otto, etc....)

But then its way it would be to topheavy.'
So i`m searching for some soft Foaminsearts for better weightdistribution (heavy wheels) and better Performance

The Options on eBay and amazon are super expensive and come in Packs of 4.....

I could try to myke my owhn, but i do not find the right foams on amazon.
They should be heavy and soft.

Also i`m searching for Swaybars/Stabilizers for my G6-01, the comical series or a Wild Willy2)

In my Monstertrucks, i love to use ultra soft suspension combines with Swaybars, so the chassis isn`tho "wobbely"

All of my Monstertrucks ve "superstock BZ" build in.

My Clod Busters have 2 of them with adjusted Timing.

Most of my Buggys (the re-releases) have the Sport tuned Motors.)

I love the Sporttunes Motors and the Supersticks

In my oppinion they are way more powerful than most of the Brushless ones.

I also do not like the "sound" of the Brushless Motors.

They sound jus awful

 

 

All of my cars are buit with Ballberings and Tamiya CVA oilshocks overall.
For my King Yellow, i hve to use softer Oil.
And mybe softer Springs.
I just don`know where i do get softer Springs.....

Any help?

Sorry for my bad English.....

 

Edit:

This Thing is just a little Funmachine

I do not get it why there is not enough love for this Model