any one know where

[matthewd]

does any one know where to get all the fastenings for the tamiya kits all kits like nuts, bolts, screws, u-bolts with out going straight to the manufcturer

[TWINSET]

Depends how 'authentic' you want the model...

If it's an everyday runner, the black allen screws look very similar to Unbrako branded screws (main difference is the knurling around the socket) - These can be got from a load of fastener companies in the UK as Unbrako sell thru practically anyone.

As a guide price, an M3 x 10mm screw would set you back about £4 per 100.

Screwfix probably do a very similar bolt range.

The great thing is, the majority (if not all) of Tamiyas fixings are metric, and they're pretty easy to get.

For the tapping screws, you may have to look a bit harder, but nothing is unobtainable[]

[matthewd]

do you work in a fastening company?

[TWINSET]

Engineering - bearings, fastenings, dirty great hammers

[bholio]

I doubt these look exactly like the originals, but it might be what you are looking for.

http://www.rcscrewz.com/vintage.htm

[urban warrior]

Hi all,

bholio: That's nearly what I use on all my models. Since I collect them for myself or run them, I have started to replace all original Tamiya screws with stainless hex screws (Well all possible screws).

In my eyes those hex screws give my rigs a more professional, techie look. And they hold up better than the originals, I hate it when screws can't be opened because someone has botched the heads.

I do take the extra work to cut threads in all plastic parts to accomodate metric screws, no cracking at the screw connections/holes.

OK this will sound heretic for the hardcore collector, but as I said before, I collect them for myself. And I prefer the practical and optical advantages over the "to-the-point-genuineness".

Regards, Martin

[raemin]

quote:Originally posted by urban warrior

OK this will sound heretic for the hardcore collector, but as I said before, I collect them for myself. And I prefer the practical and optical advantages over the "to-the-point-genuineness".

Regards, Martin

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I personnally did exactly the same on my avante 2001 after I had to shop all the screws that were locked on the gearboxes...

[SJoerD]

Maybe buying some Clod Buster screwbags woudl get you a lot of hardware. I beleive there were 96 pieces of M3's in one 'A bag' in all sorts of sizes. (this can be found in the Clod manual [] )

Anyone know what one of these bags should cost? [] [:I] There aren't any in the TCshop...

[bholio]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGB63&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGB64&P=K

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGB65&P=K

[Shodog]

I have bought several vintage Tamiya screw bags from not so desireable cars. These car use many of the same screws on other models. I have some plastic divided boxes full of tamiya hardware.

The decision whether to use genuine stuff of general hardware store screws is up to you. If your in a pinch I can't see why not. I prefer the real stuff as thats what was on there in the first place and usually works the best. Since it has been easy for me to get the older screw bags, I stick with the stock stuff.

There is no tamiya concour's de elegance. I am sure there might be some snooty collector here on the club that would turn his nose towards a restoration that wasn't perfect box art.

Jim

[urban warrior]

Hi,

I guess when you have shelfqueens it's just a matter of taste, and how much pressure you put on yourself to have an authentic car or not. OK in Jim's case there was no pressure at all. But for the runner I have begun to come off from the Tamiya screws. Their heads a far too soft for regular maintenance work, and I don't want to replace screws permanently, as well as my stainless ones do not rust. But one of the most important points for me are the self tapping screws, they put a lot of radial force on the plastic holes where they are used, what often leads to cracks around the holes, especially if there is only little material around the holes. Well any screw is putting a lot of radial force on its mounting hole, but sometimes it's just too much. What do you guys think fine thread has been invented for? So I take my metric screw tap and off we go. The metric thread is a little bit finer than the thread of the self tapping screws. So you have a more homogeneous load on your hole. Sometimes I take longer screws (where possible) and take a washer and a nut. Because on weak holes an axial force when fastening is better for the structure, it may also prevent a screw from cracking out (OK, not when you jump your Clod six feet high![]) And a hex or torx head is much more durable than the stock Tamiya ones. BTW you can tap a thread in plastic and screw in a Tamiya metric screw, no one will see the difference from the outside, and it is still less stress at the hole.

Please guys, these are my experiences in addition with my profession, no one has to follow or to feel offended.

matthewd: You are located in the UK? I could send you some of my surplus screws for a little amount. Let me know if you are interested. Or did I pull you over to the dark side now[}]

Regards, Martin

[SJoerD]

Bholio... Did realise it's actually that obvious! [] LOL

That seems quite cheap to me... I'll be off and look for a good LHS to order them now. Something tell me that will be even harder to find around here these days... [] []

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by Shodog

...I prefer the real stuff as thats what was on there in the first place and usually works the best.

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Like Jim, I'm finding the original Tamiya screws too good to pass up. Don't know what they're plated with but they don't seem to rust (like steel screws do), at most they'd have a bit of corrosion. They're lighter than stainless; and SS hardware is always very expensive. They're definitely far stronger than copper and titanium & aliminium screws.

The only screws I usually replace are the motor screws; I'd go for high-tensile hex-heads anytime.

If you folks don't want head-stripping problems, only buy good tools - invest in a good #2 Phillips.

[urban warrior]

quote:Originally posted by WillyChang

If you folks don't want head-stripping problems, only buy good tools - invest in a good #2 Phillips.

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Seems to have been the most common problem on the used rigs I've bought. Seemed like some people use their survival knifes to fasten the screws ... for most screws the only solution was the "Coup de Grace".

Martin

[TWINSET]

I find the nail file on a swiss army knife works best[]

[matthewd]

i find that the best ones are the (a2) or (a4) st/st hex hd high tensile set screws

or you can use 10.9 or 12.9 tensile socket cap haed set screws in self colour, zinc plated or stainless steal

[SJoerD]

I must say, I got myself a proper (and expensive [:I]) Phillips #2 screwdriver and I am not having many problems, only with screws that are completely screwed in the first place... []

Also, sometimes even a flathead (5) works quite well on Tamiya screws, as there is a slot in them for that too. So there is a second chance getting those pesky worn screws out of there before getting your pliers / drill / hamer / axe / blowtorch / trashcan into action... [}]

[netsmithUK]

I've got a couple of sets from here and was pleased with them

http://www.benderstore.com/kits/tamiya/tamiya.htm

Chris

[matthewd]

i like to get my screws from my local fasteninmgs shop

e.p fasteners it is nice and cheap and i get very good quality screws from them

i get the umbrako socket cap head high tensile screws very good

[SteveH(2)]

The best screwdrivers for the job have got to be Tamiya's own 8 piece tool kit. I've had one for well over 10 years, probably nearer 15. They have had some serious abuse, but are as good as the day I got them.

I'm sure you can still get them at around £15 I think.

[WillyChang]

Latest TRF toolkit looks good but isn't cheap.

For less you could probably get all the Hudy tools you need, including the reamer. They're all great to use and solidly built.

[Boomerang89]

Replacing Tamiya metric screws by metric stainless steel ones is easy. However for the self tapping screws, what kind of thread is used there?