locking the diffs on a TLT

[tamiyamc]

Are people locking the diffs, if so with what?

[BiggusDitchus]

Yup, locked all mine... turning circle somewhat comprimised so 4 wheel steering is essential really.

For front and rear diffs its easy, simply pack with chemical metal.

The centre is a little bit tricky, as far as i can see on mine its bolted together then glued the plates too (thanks twinset, he can prob answer the centre diff issue) but other methods I have seen is two bolts thru the slipper plates(you have a bit of drilling there), others have used traxxas slipper pegs (though you still get a little movement this way)

DOing this tho vastly improves the climbing/crawling mine is tons better. Will happily drive up to a wall then climb up to vertical (before falling over backwards []

[night_owl]

I replace the whole centre diff with a TA-04 gear diff and then epoxy the diff gears as per normal.

The 04 gear diff is a direct replacement for the ball diff unit.

[TWINSET]

Centre diff lock;

Leave balls out

Drill and tap the 'boss' on BJ4 to M4 thread

Get BJ5, BH4 and BH6 assembled

Get BJ4, BH4 and BH6 assebmled

Install bearings as instructions say, keeps the whole thing aligned.

Cover ball holes and recess on one side of BG3 with a load of hot glue - Don't smooth it off with your finger, it's hot!

Press BJ5 etc into it and hold 'til set

Flip over and repeat for BJ4 side.

Finally, put M4 screw thru BJ5 into BJ4 and tighten it up real tight (use scaffold pole for extra leverage if necessary)

[tamiyamc]

Thanks for the replies,

in terms of the center diff I read on RCMT that people are using (dare I write) Traxxas slipper pegs instead of the balls to make it less slippery, anyone try this one?

Thanks again for the replies.

[Virus]

tamiyamc i would go with Twinsets diff fix sounds a sure fire way of fixing your problem

[BiggusDitchus]

It sure is, I own Twinsets locked centre diff, and it is locked SOLID!

[TWINSET]

Not sure it's unlockable though []

[oldfordguy]

I saw the other day, a solid spool ,for ta04. This would be a bling bling way to lock the center diff, and preserve it as well. To lock the axle diffs without ruining them, fill em with silly putty. That stuff will lock them solid. If you want to restore them, just take apart, remove silly putty and replace with grease. In the USA silly putty is a plastic putty sold in toy stores in a plastic egg shell. It is bouncy, stretchable, and lifts images from newsprint for all sorts of stretchy fun. Not sure if you guys in other parts of the world have the same thing, or equivelent. If you know what Im talkin about, be sure to try it. It works best and is non permanent.

[simensays]

To lock the axle diffs on the TLT, you can use the parts from the G spur of the XC series! I think it's funny that nobody else has noticed this, at least I've not seen anybody mention this on the forums in TLT sites (yourmicro.com/TXT.net/one18th.com etc), and there's like tons of questoins about this, with various creative answers.

With the release of the VW touareg, the G spur with the parts to lock the diffs is yet again in production, and hopefully available from Tower etc.

These pics are taken from the Pajero XC manual.

[nickseab]

I'm currently building my TLT and i've locked the rear dif with blu-tac and am considering my options for the center one. The blu-tac seems to severly limit the ability of the diff to move.

[BiggusDitchus]

I initially used blutack and it seems to work initially but it turns almost jelly like after a while and the diff works but tightly.

It was an absolute pain to get it out so I wouldnt recommend it.

[nickseab]

oh.... ******

[nickseab]

quote:Originally posted by BiggusDitchus

I initially used blutack and it seems to work initially but it turns almost jelly like after a while and the diff works but tightly.

It was an absolute pain to get it out so I wouldnt recommend it.

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Well I can now vouch for the above, the diff came free and when I took it apart it was a nightmare to get out, the blu-tac had gona all sticky and horrible.

[BiggusDitchus]

:S, cant beleive you tried it after what happened to me Chemical metal fella, mix and fill. Though am wondering if driveshafts can take strain, I have broken one and it dont look like i will have a 3wd TLT for Kidderminster.

[nickseab]

quote:Originally posted by BiggusDitchus

:S, cant beleive you tried it after what happened to me Chemical metal fella, mix and fill. Though am wondering if driveshafts can take strain, I have broken one and it dont look like i will have a 3wd TLT for Kidderminster.

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yeh, I had already built it when you mentioned it here, so I thought I would give it a go - mistake.

It's now filled with hot glue, guess i'll try that and if it dont work, yep - chemical metal it is.

[mud4fun]

quote:I initially used blutack and it seems to work initially but it turns almost jelly like after a while and the diff works but tightly.

It was an absolute pain to get it out so I wouldnt recommend it.

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Totally agree with you BiggusDitchus, I used bluetack in some of my diffs and after a while it turned to liquid and oozed out of the diff into the gearbox and onto all the bearings.......mind you I was using a mighty torquey motor.

I simply super glue my diffs together now and that seems to work fine although I don't have a TLT. I use locked diffs on most of my buggies and trucks but generally only the rear one otherwise you end up with a turning circle to rival the QE2

[simensays]

The diff locking parts are now avaible in walawalas eBay store at a reasonable price.

get the diff lock parts here

.

You need two sets to lock both front and rear diffs. This is a fully reversable way to lock the axle diffs on the TLT-1.

[Lunch ROCS]

I totally agree with simensays. You should use the tourag diff lock sprue. At least that way the gears can be un-locked if ever you plan to part with it or you just dont want locked diffs. I once used a quick drying 2 part epoxy resin. It worked fine but i had to buy a new diff set just to get it back to normal.