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Posted

I am in two minds as to how i going to spray my shell.

Do i use tamiya spray cans or do i use my pactra paints via my air brush.

Will i get the same finish with an air brush and do i need to laquer it after its been sparayed to get a nice glossy finish?

Posted

i always use car body paint "spraycan job" and then t-cut it and polish it and it comes out with a reallll shine and you have loads of paint left for touch ups and after t-cutting you can always lacker it if you think it needs it

most t/c members will prob totaly dissagree with what ive said as its not useing original colours but there is a very wide range of colours and you can always get a colour close to the original but i find it works well for me

pete

Posted

I've had trouble with Pactra too - I've had it flaking off of polycarbonate bodies, even though I've used the right paint, and the right technique etc.

Never had that with Tamiya paint though, so I stick to that now..

Posted

Pactra paint is for lexan, and won't give a good finish on the Tamiya hard shells. For the Pumpkin I would recommend Tamiya paint. Prime it first if possible, otherwise if you are painting it black onto the white plastic, the black won't take in the grooves very well (That's what happened with mine when I first did it).

I've always found Tamiya paint to be the best for getting a mirror shine finish on hard plastic bodies, and you can use auto polish once it's dried to make it even deeper and shinier. Then, if you're anything like me, you can take it out, drive it, roll it and scratch it up [}:)]

Posted
quote:Originally posted by jozza

Pactra paint is for lexan, and won't give a good finish on the Tamiya hard shells.


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Pactra makes a hobby/model paint also. I used it on my Lunchbox and I am unsatisfied with the finish.

img34_08042004054219_6.jpg

Despite my best intentions it came out all orange peel. I can't wait until the LB is re-released so I can get another body to respray with some Tamiya black

Posted

Shodog, nice scheme, I see what you mean about the orange peel though, shame. I didn't know Pactra made a different paint, but from what you say it's probably not worth looking at! Have you tried using rubbing compound to flatten the paint? I had some success with that on my Clod, it was auto paint but a little dimpled, so I used some rubbing compound followed by TCut followed by a cheap car wax, and the finish was really nice and deep. It was okay doing it after the decals had gone on too, I just made sure I was gentle near the stickers.

Dimmadan, I'm not sure if Tamiya make a primer; if they do, then that would be the one to use. I've used Halfords plastic primer to undercoat Tamiya paint and it seems to work fine. Lay it on really thin and allow it to thoroughly dry before putting on the top coat. It's always best if possible to use the same manufacturer's primer as the paint, but I've not yet had any problems with Halfords primer and Tamiya paint.

Posted

That Monster Beetle looks superb, really nice paintwork. I have always reached for the rattle cans when I'm painting hard bodies, never really considered doing them with the airbrush, but I think I might get hold of some airbrush paint for the next one. Like you say, you get a lot more control and a much finer finish with a brush than with a tin.

Posted
quote:Originally posted by cardesigner

For my Monster Beetle, I used Tamiya color (clear red) out of a bottle and sprayed with my airbrush. After it fully cured I wetsanded with 2000 grit and then hand buffed. The finish is impressive. I don't like spray cans, you get a finer spray with airbrush and more control.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.a...d=34350&id=7011


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Great idea and work [8D], I had also done something similar on my Bruiser 3 years ago, with not so great Revell paints though http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=1275&id=16

Cheers

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