Clod Buster MSC and BEC

[Mountain]

I have just built a new Super Clod Buster which I intend to modify but wanted to test in stock form just to make sure everything is working correctly. It is currently setup with Acoms radio gear running from the BEC take off from the MSC (Also fitted with this PTC safety switch).

I ran it for the first time last night with a 3000mah battery and was disappointed that if you put a small obstacle in front of it gets stuck and the speed controller and steering servo get stuck in the position they were at. Also won't go over anything if you are on the 1st and 2nd speeds and have to go to max speed, if it hasn't cut out already. Is this the fault of the PTC or is there a problem with the battery (it is only 6 months old but don't have another to test) and is there any way to check. I use have the original Clod Buster and don't remember having these problems, it was always unstoppable even to the extent it would try and drive up a vertical wall (although obviously end up on its back). Most of the other cars that I had had ESC, the only other one that I have is a Vanquish which using the same battery only really stops if you are up against a wall.

The original Clod Buster I had was not BEC and had its own batteries for the servo which meant the servos would always work regardless of what the main battery was doing. Is this cut out a flaw of BEC.

I am hopefully recieving an ESC which should give me the control I want but I wanted to check it wasn't a problem with the battery and if anybody else had experienced any problems.

Thanks

[Floyd]

Im not sure with the Super Clods , but dose it have the power/economy switch like the original clod ? It sounds like its in the economy posistion . Or could be a low charged or bad battery . Its still the same old clod with just different colored palstic and a slightly modified body .

[DJTheo]

Better get an ESC, also by removing 4 of plastic firction dampers and removing the rubber tubes of the remaining 4 it climbs much better at zero cost [8D]

Cheers

[jozza]

quote:Originally posted by DJTheo

Better get an ESC, also by removing 4 of plastic firction dampers and removing the rubber tubes of the remaining 4 it climbs much better at zero cost [8D]

Cheers

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id="quote">id="quote">Which of the dampers would you remove - does it make a difference? Would you leave the outside dampers in place (so there are shocks at the far corners) or leave the inside ones on? Also, does moving the damper mounting positions have an effect, there are 3 (?) holes for each damper and I've left them in the middle one.

I'm thinking of removing all the dampers and replacing with 4 oil dampers, I've got some Emaxx ones which I think would fit; is that a worthwhile upgrade?

[rotor]

What is the small obsticle you are putting in its way ?

I have put some in front of mine and it climbs over them with ease, I was just using all the stock equip that came with the super clod and a 1700-2100 battery and had no issues with speed ( that much it would flip itself ) or its climbing ability, it handled the small logs out the front of my place with ease.

Chris

[Mountain]

Ok, managed to got hold of another battery and put this in, voila everything is how I remembered it. Plenty of power and it now flips itself over if I am not careful.

It must have been a dud battery or not holding its charge. I put the faulty one back on charge and it now seems ok, its only 6 months old could it have a faulty cell that is giving me the problems.

It is the same as the old Clod except for the blue plastic instead of red, different decals and body colour, a new bigger air intake (although you do get the old one still). The biggest difference is that the ball connectors on the body that hold the gearbox in place now screw into metal plates to strengthen a weak part of the chassis.

Did you not find problems in removing the rubber tubes with the gearbox and steering rod hitting the chassis?

[theshopkeeper]

The rubber tubes are there to stop you smashing the servo saver mechanisms at either end of the car, commonly people forget to fit them and get through a fair few s/savers as a result. IMHO if you remove the tubes you need to change to separate steering servos at either end (there are other posts showing how to do this in this forum a few weeks back).

[DJTheo]

quote:Which of the dampers would you remove - does it make a difference? Would you leave the outside dampers in place (so there are shocks at the far corners) or leave the inside ones on? Also, does moving the damper mounting positions have an effect, there are 3 (?) holes for each damper and I've left them in the middle one.

I'm thinking of removing all the dampers and replacing with 4 oil dampers, I've got some Emaxx ones which I think would fit; is that a worthwhile upgrade?

---

id="quote">id="quote">

Would leave ther outside ones for a better response. I would also mount them to the lower hole to reduce the axles hitting the chassis. Oil dampers would be a great improvement.

quote:The rubber tubes are there to stop you smashing the servo saver mechanisms at either end of the car, commonly people forget to fit them and get through a fair few s/savers as a result. IMHO if you remove the tubes you need to change to separate steering servos at either end (there are other posts showing how to do this in this forum a few weeks back).

id="quote">id="quote">

The springs are pretty hard for both sides to fully compress simultaneously to hit the chassis, removing them improves articulation alot without the gearboxes touching the chassis and that is the reason I recommend. Personally I didn't have problems of broken s/savers but I also don't do crazy jumps, of course 2 axle servos is a big improvement.

Cheers

[jozza]

Thanks DJTheo - I'm going to put some Emaxx oil shocks on which I've got laying around and see how it goes. I was going to soften the springs/oil, but from what you say it's probably best to keep the stiff Emaxx springs on to avoid the gearboxes crunching the chassis. I've got some blocks for mounting servos on the axles (thanks Twinset), hoping that this will be a low cost but worthwhile mod to do, as I don't have the funds currently to spend lots of $$ on custom chassis!