XC front & rear Locked diff ?

[shenlonco]

Hi i locked both diffs man how much better it works now!

A few?'s i have now are:

Should i only run on dusty surfaces now?

Also i am worried about where the axel shafts slip into the bevel gears did anyone ever strip them out from locking the diffs?

Thanks for your help.

[miramar]

quote:Originally posted by shenlonco

Should i only run on dusty surfaces now?

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Generally, there is no reason to expect durability/wear problems caused by driving with an XC with locked diffs on a high-traction surface. The XC drivetrain can take quite a lot of abuse and especially the original tires are relatively hard and don't develop a lot of traction on flat surfaces.

quote]Originally posted by shenlonco

Also i am worried about where the axel shafts slip into the bevel gears did anyone ever strip them out from locking the diffs?

I've had driven my first XC, that I got right after the launch (in `93-`94?), for countless hours under extreme conditions with locked diffs and high-torque motor (and 4:1 extra gearbox between the motor and the spur gear most of the time) and the splines on the bevel gears and axle shafts haven't caused any problems. The slots on the axle shafts and the dogbones themselves will however wear. On the front, you can change the original shafts with hardened shafts (53218) to reduce wear, but taken you've got all ballbearings in the drivetrain, the XC will work great in stock form as well.

I would say that the XC is among the Tamiya models that cause the least worries.

[gozone]

Hi.. In my XC, also running with a LRP Truck Puller motor, and locked diffs, i have used a few shims in the rear axle, to reduce slop between the bevel gear at the propshaft, and the diff drive gear..This works great, especially due to the fact that i am mainly running my XC on very high traction surfaces, (rocks, etc.), and therefore causing very high strain on the axles and gears, and i have found, that reducing the sideways play inside the rear axle has mae the transmission more "constant" if you know what i mean.. Still, you must remember to leave enough play for the gear to turn smoothly.. I must also admit, that i do not "use" my car, but more in the sense of "abuse" instead, so in relatively short time, it has begun to seem quite "worn" in the overall drivetrain and steering.. Mine is a Touareg, refitted with a shorter rear propshaft to decrease legth, and allowing me to use an aftermarket hardbody of the Pajero Montero, from a Chinese toy RC-car.. Perfect fit for the short XC-chassis cars, and even with opening doors and rear hatch... The entire chinese car cost me about 20 euros from brandnew, so it wont be that big a loss when i destroy it sometime...In the future.... Perhaps NEAR future.. LOL...

Cheers.

Michael

[tamiya_89]

Gozone,[] could you post a pic of your car it sounds interesting!

[gozone]

Yes, i can...:

http://www.rcgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=4209

These pics, however are from before i changed the body, which has just happened recently..

Actually, right now i am charging the batteries to go for a new "run of destruction".. Perhaps i might get a few snaps of it being punished. I must say, that in the wintertime it runs very well with the long wheelbase and snowchains, (homemade, of course)..

Cheers...

Michael

[gozone]

Well, now i have been out running it and shooting a few more pics, so the last 10 are with the Pajero-shell, taken today..:

http://www.rcgalleri.dk/html/gal_visbil.asp?ID=4209

It has got an OK articulation, i reckon, even though the wheels sometimes fouls the body, but with the Truck Puller motor, they will NOT stall anyway, LOL...

Cheers..